DID YOU KNOW?
Lacto-Fermentation: Ten Biggest Questions
adapted from http://www.cookinggodsway.com
Lacto-fermentation is growing in popularity as more and more people discover the health benefits of this ancient food preservation method. But I have to tell ya, the taste of these foods are a benefit as well. We at Cooking God’s Way have taught local classes on lacto-fermentation and here are some of the top asked a lot of questions.
Here are the top 10 lacto-fermenting questions we get asked most often:
Top 10 Most Asked Lacto-fermenting
Questions1. What is lacto-fermentation?
Lacto-fermentation is an ancient method of food preservation that has been around for thousands of years, that can be preformed on raw and cooked vegetables. Many different cultures around the world used this technique in some manner. Many foods that you have eaten or have heard of were originally made using lacto-fermentation, ie. sauerkraut, pickles, kimchi (a spicy sauerkraut eaten to this day with every meal in Korea) etc. Lacto-fermented are not only “preserved” but are nutrient-dense, enzyme rich and made alive with probiotics.
2. Why should one eat lacto-fermented foods, what are the benefits?
Most cultures around the world have some sort of fermented food that is a staple in their diet. We should be following in their footsteps, as there is a reason their health is more stable than that of the U.S. It is becoming widely known that 80% of our immune system is in our gut. The immune system deals with aging, infection, disease, and general health. Consuming these probiotic and enzyme rich foods help build the immune system and aide digestion, taking a load off our system.
3. Can I get food poisoning from eating fermented foods?
Fermented foods which are properly made are considered very safe to eat.
According to Fred Breidt a microbiologist with the USDA – “properly fermented vegetables are actually safer than raw vegetables, which might have been exposed to pathogens like E. coli on the farm… With fermented products there is no safety concern. I can flat-out say that. The reason is the lactic acid bacteria that carry out the fermentation are the world’s best killer of other bacteria,”– San Francisco Gate, June 2009.
It does not happen very often, but if an occasional batch goes bad, you will know it. In all the years of fermenting foods I have only had 2 batches go bad. One got mold on it after being the fridge for some time and one smelled so horrible after the fermentation process that you couldn’t even get your nose near it. Both were tossed in the garbage immediately. So you can see, if it does happen, the signs will be there and it would not be easy in the least to consume a contaminated batch.
4. Are lacto-fermented foods available for purchase in the store?
Fermented foods are usually not available for purchase in the store, well at least not at the level of fermentation that is performed at home. The simple reason is that fermented foods are living and continue to ferment, producing gases, which in turn creates pressures that product packaging could not contain. Can we say leaky cracked, exploding jars and burst bags?! No worries though, lacto-fermented foods are easy (and safe) to make at home.
5. Is specialty, expensive, equipment needed to make lacto-fermented foods?
The process of lacto-fermentation takes place in an anaerobic environment, meaning without oxygen. If oxygen is present the wrong organisms can flourish instead of the beneficial ones we desire. During the process of fermentation gases are produced which can cause cracked or even worse, exploding jars… yikes! The good news… there is equipment available that makes lacto-fermentation safe and easy. These specialty fermentation tools keep air our of your ferment while at the same time allowing gases to escape, so you can get less issues with mold or ferments going bad, and avoid the scare or worries of exploding jars. If you look around the internet you will find many different types of vessels or equipment for fermenting, they can range in price from very affordable and economical to quite costly.
6. What is the process or methods used to make lacto-fermented foods?
During lacto-fermentation we are basically growing/culturing a probiotic food. So we can either allow the lactobacilli already present on the vegetables to proliferate or we can add a special culture to get it started. I like to keep it simplest whenever possible.
When fermenting raw vegetables just using some sea salt and/or a salt brine will keep putrefying bacteria at bay until the natural lactobacilli on the veggies can take over. When wanting to ferment a food that is not raw, but cooked or roasted, then it is important to use some sort of culture that contains live lactobacilli since some of the enzymes have been destroyed. The culture can be a commercial culture, usually a powder, available online, or the easier way is to use “whey”. Fresh liquid whey can be easily obtained from plain yogurt with live active cultures or kefir, making it an economical choice over specialty vegetable culture powders.
7. Can I eat lacto-fermented foods even though I’m lactose or dairy intolerant?
The process of lacto-fermentation happens when the starches and sugars within the vegetables are converted to lactic acid by the friendly bacteria lactobacilli. So the term “lacto” in lacto-fermentation actually refers to this production of lactic acid, not lacto as in the lactose in milk. So, the answer to this question is Yes and Maybe No.
YES – If the fermented food was made with the traditional “salt” method.
MAYBE or NO – If the fermented food was made with the addition of “whey”, usually from yogurt or another milk product, those with dairy intolerance’s may not be able to enjoy those types of ferments. In this instance one would have to proceed with trying at their own discretion and risk (non-dairy vegetable culture powders are available to use in place of “whey” if dairy is an issue).
8. How long do fermented foods last?
Lacto-fermented foods differ from commercially processed foods in how they go “bad”. Commercially processed foods become tainted with bad bacteria or mold, becoming unsafe to eat. While lacto-fermented foods do on very rare occasion get mold or go “bad”, this is generally not the case (see question 3). The lacto-fermented foods are alive and continue to “ferment” even in cold storage, just at a slower rate. In our experience, the harder the cell wall of the vegetable the longer they will last after fermentation and stored in the refrigerator. An example would be that cabbage that has a very tough cell wall will last over 6 months in cold storage vs. a pickle (cucumber) that has a soft cell wall will only last maybe 2 or 3 months in cold storage before it becomes too mushy and unpalatable.
9. Why do my fermented foods sometimes taste a little different from batch to batch?
Vegetables can taste different from season to season and farm to farm. The soil conditions, weather, etc come into play – this is the very same reason that fermented foods will taste different at different times of the year. You are making a natural product so tastes can vary slightly, that is normal.
10. My brine has turned from clear to cloudy and/or there is white sediment on the bottom of my jar. Is this normal?
It is normal to have your brine turn cloudy during the fermentation, this is all part of the process. White sediment on the bottom of the jar is just yeast that forms during the fermentation process and is not harmful.
Consuming laco-fermented foods can be a great benefit to your health and well being.
Where did "Like two ships passing in the night" originate?
from knowyourphrase.com
The ocean is a big place, so what are the odds of two ships sailing directly past each other? I have no idea, but it's probably not very high. If it does occur,
though, and it happens to be at night, the ships may shine a light on the other in order to acknowledge the others presence. The shining of the light can be
seen as a greeting, as if the ships are talking to one another, that is, until they pass and disappear into the darkness of the night, never to see the other again. Well, who knows, they might cross paths again at some point.
Anyway, this sort of ship passing situation, at some point, began to be applied to people who meet for the first time, only to part ways shortly after, disappearing into the vastness of the earth. Such people are like two ships passing at night.
The idiom at least over 150 years old. It is written in Tales of a Wayside Inn, by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow in 1863, where it reads:
"Ships that pass in the night, and speak each other in passing, Only a signal shown and a distant voice in the darkness; So on the ocean of life, we pass and speak one another, Only a look and a voice, then darkness again and a silence."
Would you please give me some information on Chia Seeds?
from healthyeating.sfgate.com
Chia seeds have been a staple in Mayan and Aztec diets for centuries. Today, they draw the interest of many people for their health benefits and uses in cooking. It turns out chia seeds are a rich source of nutrients and antioxidants.
Omega-3 Fatty Acids Chia seeds are rich in polyunsaturated fats, especially omega-3 fatty acids. Chia seeds' lipid profile is composed of 60 percent omega-3s, making them one of the richest plant-based sources of these fatty acids -- specifically, of alpha-linolenic acid, or ALA. The omega-3s in chia seeds can help reduce inflammation, enhance cognitive performance and reduce high cholesterol.
Fiber - Fiber is associated with reducing inflammation, lowering cholesterol and regulating bowel function. Chia seeds are an excellent source of fiber, with a whopping 10 grams in only 2 tablespoons. That is one-third of the daily recommended intake of fiber per day.
Antioxidants- Chia seeds are rich in antioxidants that help protect the body from free radicals, aging and cancer. The high antioxidant profile also helps them have a long shelf life. They last almost two years without refrigeration.
Minerals- Two tablespoons of chia seeds contain 18 percent of the DRI for calcium, 35 percent for phosphorus, 24 percent for magnesium and about 50 percent for manganese. These nutrients help you prevent hypertension and maintain a healthy weight, and are important for energy metabolism and a part of DNA synthesis.
Satiety- Satiety is the feeling of being full and satisfied, which helps lower food cravings between meals. The combination of protein, fiber and the gelling action of chia seeds when mixed with liquids all contribute to their satiating effects.
Gluten-Free Chia seeds contain no gluten or grains. Therefore, all of the nutritional benefits of chia seeds can be obtained on a gluten-free diet.
Egg Replacer- The outer layer of chia seeds swells when mixed with liquids to form a gel. This can used in place of eggs to lower cholesterol and increase the nutrient content of foods and baked goods. To make the egg replacement, mix 1 tablespoon of chia seeds with 3 tablespoons of water and let sit for 15 minutes.
Can Be Digested Whole Unlike flaxseeds, which are also high in omega-3 fatty acids, fiber and minerals, chia seeds do not need to be ground in order to obtain their nutrient or egg- replacement benefits.
Dyslipidemia- A study published in the "British Journal of Nutrition" showed that chia seeds as a dietary fat source can lower triglycerides and cholesterol levels while increasing HDL or "good" cholesterol. The study also found that when substituting chia seeds for other fat sources, such as corn oil, the ALA was able to prevent high triglyceride levels and reduce central obesity.
Blood Sugar Regulation- Chia seeds can play an important role in regulating insulin levels. They can reduce insulin resistance and decrease abnormally high levels of insulin in the blood.
Alert: From http://commonhealth.wbur.org
(Chia seeds live up to their superfood name. They are high in Omega 3’s (healthy fat that is an anti-inflammatory), they are an antioxidant, contain important micro-nutrients like magnesium, calcium and manganese and they are also loaded with protein. But possibly Chia’s biggest claim to fame is its fiber content. In 1 oz of chia seeds there are 11 grams of fiber – including both soluble and insoluble fiber.
Insoluble fiber is the kind of fiber that acts like a scrub brush in your colon. Soluble fiber absorbs water so it creates bulk and it makes us feel full.
The interesting thing about Chia seeds is that it can absorb A LOT of water – claims vary from 8-27X their weight in water, which makes it a great food to add to your diet if you’re looking to feel satisfied for a long time without needing to eat a lot – as in trying to lose weight.
Chia seeds are also great at keeping dehydration at bay because it holds so much liquid. However, if you eat dry chia seeds, without giving them any liquid to absorb before ingesting them, they’ll absorb the water within your system and potentially cause a blockage. I can imagine, although I’ve never seen it happen, if you ate a lot of chia seeds without any liquid and they got stuck in your throat or windpipe, it could cause a blockage. But so could flax seeds, which also absorbs water and become gelatinous.
But the fact that you could choke on chia seeds – really, you could choke on any food – should definitely NOT be a reason to avoid them.
Chia seeds (and flax seeds) have huge nutritional benefits, and should definitely be included in a healthy diet. But, they should be eaten accompanied by a liquid, either while eating them or allowing them to soak in advance.)
Who Said "Patience Is a Virtue"?
from yourdictionary.com
The first known publishing of the quote “Patience is a virtue" comes from the poem “Piers Plowman” written between the years 1360 and 1387. Typical of texts from the 14th century, authorship can be debated though literary historians normally attribute most of the text to William Langland. However, there are multiple versions of this poem written at different times with sections believed to be authored by different, unknown people.
Origins of “Patience Is a Virtue”Piers Plowman“Piers Plowman” is a poem about a man, the poet and first narrator, in search of Catholicism and faith according to medieval standards. He does this by having dream visions after falling asleep.
The poem is allegorical meaning the characters are symbolic and also satirical. However, the allegory isn’t vague or abstract.
The various characters include Truth (God), Wrong (Devil), Holy Church, Thought, Wit, Study, Conscience, Liar, Reason, Dowel (do well), Dobet (do better) and Dobest (do best) and others, including the seven deadly sins.
Later, the characters are lead on a quest by Piers Plowman who also becomes the narrator. The Plowman is chosen as the guide due to his seemingly innocent and truthful nature.
Chaucer and a Similar Theme: Ten years later, Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales contains a similar theme, characters from different walks of life gathering together for a quest, and a similar quote, “Patience is a high virtue.”
Latin and French Versions: It is also important to note that Latin and French versions of this quote also appear during that time. This means that this idea belongs to more than one religion and culture.
Common sentiments such as this often make their way into literature of the time, which makes it difficult to pinpoint the exact origin of the text since the quote would have been well known to people through an oral story tradition since many people were not literate.
_
What Is Farina?
from wikipedia and cookinfo
The word farina comes from the Latin farina, meaning meal or flour.
Farina is made from the germ and endosperm of the grain, which is milled to a fine granular consistency and then sifted. Because the bran and most of the germ are removed, this cereal is sometimes enriched with Vitamin B and iron. Farina, by itself, is most often served as a breakfast cereal, but can also be cooked like polenta. Farina can also be used to make farofa. Cream of Wheat, Malt-O-Meal, and Farina are brand names of a type of wheat farina used for breakfast cereal. Farina Mills and Farina Creamy Hot Wheat Cereal are trademarks of the Malt-O-Meal Company.
Farina can also be found on the bottom of some English muffins as it is used to prevent them from sticking to the baking surfaces during the baking process.
When enriched, it is one of the single best sources of dietary iron available, especially for vegetarian diets, with most brands offering as much as 50% of the recommended daily value in a single 120-calorie serving.
Common additives to it for cereal include cinnamon, butter, sugar or brown sugar, honey, maple syrup, grated chocolate, jelly/jam/preserves, dried or fresh fruit and salt. These can help add to an otherwise bland taste.
Farina is made from hard wheat that is not durum wheat. It is similar to semolina, but semolina is made from durum wheat.
Just the just the endosperm of the wheat kernel is used. The bran and most of the germ are removed. The endosperm is then ground finely and sifted. It's not ground as finely as today's white flour is, though: it's more granula, like a meal. It looks like a paler version of cornmeal. It is in fact about the same coarseness as cornmeal, making it coarser than semolina.
Farina is a cheaper flour than semolina. In Italy, it's illegal to use farina commercially to stretch out the semolina when making pasta. It's not in North America. Pasta with farina in it isn't considered as good a quality.
Semolina is possibly what Hungarian recipes mean when they call for "grizes liszt" (gritty flour, "liszt" meaning "flour" in Hungarian.) Cream of Wheat or Farina can be used as a substitute for "griz" in Hungarian recipes.
Cooking Tips: While regular flour will get pasty when wetted and stick to the bowl, both semolina and farina will come away from the sides of the bowl.
Farina can be used as a thickener in dishes where the texture won't matter so much, such on the top of fruit pile fillings. It can absorb a good deal of moisture and juice, to prevent top crusts from getting soggy.
You can cook Farina up as a porridge for breakfast and serve it in a bowl, or cook it a bit thicker and treat it like polenta for a meal later in the day. When cooking it as porridge, Farina cooks up less fluffy than semolina.
You can also use Farina as a savory side grain, as you would rice: In a frying pan or sauce pan, brown Farina in a bit of oil. Add cold water, salt and pepper to taste, and let simmer over medium heat until water has been taken up and the grain can be fluffed. Per 1 part Farina, use 1 part water (e.g. for 1 cup of dry Farina, use 1 cup of water).
Substitutes Cream of Wheat® cereal is based on Farina, though it is not quite the same thing. The farina used for Cream of Wheat is ground a little finer than farina generally is, and a small proportion of other ingredients is also added to the Cream of Wheat cereal. The two, however, can be substituted for each other.
How Do I Restore and Season Rusty Cast Iron?
From MotherEarthNews
There are a few tools that every cook should have in their kitchen - a great seat of knives, a heavy-duty stand mixer, a food processor, stainless steel nesting mixing bowls, a Dutch oven, and a cast iron skillet. Cast iron is one of those things that people either LOVE, or it scares them because they don't understand it. The reasons against cast iron are that:
1. "it rusts"
2. "it’s heavy"
3. "I don't know how to use it."
Once you cook with a well-seasoned cast iron skillet, all of the above reasons just fall away. The problem for most people lies with the “well-seasoned” part. Unless you have a granny ready to hand down some cast iron to you, you’re likely going to have to do some of the seasoning yourself. And what is better way to reduce resources, save money, and preserve a well-loved tradition, than to purchase cast iron at a thrift store or garage sale. Much of what is available out there is pretty rusty and damaged. Follow these simple steps, and you will soon be cooking on a well-seasoned piece of history.
How to Restore Cast Iron
1. Clean the skillet with soap and water. In my humble opinion, this is one of the last times your skillet should need soap.
2. Then put it in a 300 degree Fahrenheit oven for about 10 minutes.
3. Remove from the oven and pour a puddle of oil (I used olive, but any kind will work) and a generously helping of kosher salt in to the center.
4. Using a rag you don't mind getting dirty, paper towels, a very stiff scrub brush, or pieces of newspaper, work the oil and salt in to all parts of the skillet. Pay special attention to the rusty areas.
5. Then, rinse off the skillet, and put back in to the oven until it is mostly dry.
6. Put it on the stovetop on medium heat with another puddle of your oil of choice and work it around with another rag. I used a pastry brush. Let it heat and "cure" on the burner for about 5 minutes. Careful, the oil will be hot!
7. Pour the oil off, and put just a dab of high-heat oil in the skillet. Some people prefer vegetable oil for this part. I'm not a veggie oil fan - including canola - so I used a dab of bacon grease. Let the oil melt/get hot, and then work it around to cover the entire surface of the skillet. Then, using a paper towel or piece of newspaper and remove all excess oil from the pan. Bake for 90 minutes at 300 degrees.
8. Then, everything from step 7, and bake for another 90 minutes at 300 degrees.
You can keep adding oil and baking as many times as you want.
A quick and final note on cast iron. No matter how much seasoning you give it, you'll always need a pinch of fat (butter, oil, shortening, etc.) in a hot pan prior to adding food to it. Always allow ample time - about 5 minutes – for the skillet to heat up prior to adding the fat and the food.
I've heard you can make a tea from pine trees, please explain.
White Pine Needle Tea: Healing
From manataka.org
Pine needle tea has been around for a very long time. It was first used by Native American’s for its healing properties. In fact they introduced pine needle tea to the early settlers (in Canada and New England) as a cure for scurvy, which is caused by lack of vitamin C.
Pine needle tea is great for colds, chest congestion and upper respiratory illnesses, though it is also rumored to help with many other ailments as well. You can do your own search on the web to find out more. It is packed with antioxidants, vitamin C and vitamin A.
Luckily pine trees are found in abundance all over the U.S. so it’s an easy and free tea that you can make at home.
* ½ cup of pine needles, green young needles are best
* 1.5 pints of water
* Bring water to boil in a stainless steel pan (do not use aluminum)
* Add the pine needles, reduce heat to a simmer for 20 minutes to overnight.
* Strain needles and drink warm or cold
you can also put them in unbleached tea bags
The tea should be red in color with a little oil floating on top.
You can add honey or cinnamon if you like, (since I have type 2 diabetes I add cinnamon). It really doesn’t taste like pine; it has a very mild flavor.
White pine needles have 5 needles on each sprig… but you can use any pine or fir tree (though the recipe may differ).
Remember: Some pine and fir trees are poisonous.
Pour boiled water in a cup and do not boil needles in a sealed jar as this may release harmful turpentine.
Explain this quote please.
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step." - Lao-tzu, The Way of Lao-tzu
Chinese philosopher (604 BC - 531 BC)
Where Did "Kill Two Birds With One Stone" originate?
This is what I found on - The Grammarphobia Blog Bird play August 2nd, 2013 Question: What is the origin of the unfortunate phrase “to kill two birds with one stone”?
The expression is rarely used literally. In fact, the phrase was used figuratively when it first showed up in writing in the 1600s and it has generally been used that way ever since.
The Oxford English Dictionary describes the usage as a proverbial phrase meaning “to accomplish two different purposes by the same act or proceeding.”
The earliest citation in the OED is from a 1655-56 exchange of views about free will between the philosopher Thomas Hobbes and the Anglican Bishop John Bramhall: “T. H. thinks to kill two birds with one stone, and satisfy two arguments with one answer.”
However, we’ve found an earlier example in A Complete History of the Present Seat of War in Africa Between the Spaniards and Algerines, a 1632 book by an author identified on the title page as “J. Morgan Gent.”
The gentleman writes that a Berber military chief “came resolved to kill two Birds with one Stone, return the Spaniards their Compliments, and conduct his insolent Turks, where he was certain at least some of them would be knocked on the head.”
We’ve seen quite a bit of speculation online that the expression originated in other languages—Latin, Greek, Chinese, and so on—but we’ve seen no evidence that English borrowed the usage.
A typical theory is that the expression originated with Ovid, but the closest example we’ve found in the Roman poet’s writing is the scene from Metamorphoses where Tiresias strikes two copulating snakes with a stick and is transformed into a woman.
Many online “experts” believe the usage originated in the story of Daedalus and Icarus, who escaped from the Labyrinth on Crete by making wings and flying out, according to Greek mythology.
Daedalus supposedly got the feathers to make the wings by killing two birds with one stone. However, neither Ovid nor Appolodorus, the principal sources of the myth, say anything about how Daedalus got the feathers.
In the 1600s, when the expression arrived in English, one sense of the word “bird” was a game bird, especially a partridge, according to the OED. And one sense of the term “stone” (or “gunstone”) at that time was a bullet.
A more likely explanation is that the expression was influenced by one that appeared nearly a century earlier: “to stop two gaps with one bush.”
The OED defines the earlier usage as “to accomplish two ends at once” or (you guessed it) “to kill two birds with one stone.”
The first citation for this usage is from John Heywood’s 1546 collection of proverbs: “I will learne, to stop two gaps with one bushe.”
And, with that, we’ll stop.
adapted from http://www.cookinggodsway.com
Lacto-fermentation is growing in popularity as more and more people discover the health benefits of this ancient food preservation method. But I have to tell ya, the taste of these foods are a benefit as well. We at Cooking God’s Way have taught local classes on lacto-fermentation and here are some of the top asked a lot of questions.
Here are the top 10 lacto-fermenting questions we get asked most often:
Top 10 Most Asked Lacto-fermenting
Questions1. What is lacto-fermentation?
Lacto-fermentation is an ancient method of food preservation that has been around for thousands of years, that can be preformed on raw and cooked vegetables. Many different cultures around the world used this technique in some manner. Many foods that you have eaten or have heard of were originally made using lacto-fermentation, ie. sauerkraut, pickles, kimchi (a spicy sauerkraut eaten to this day with every meal in Korea) etc. Lacto-fermented are not only “preserved” but are nutrient-dense, enzyme rich and made alive with probiotics.
2. Why should one eat lacto-fermented foods, what are the benefits?
Most cultures around the world have some sort of fermented food that is a staple in their diet. We should be following in their footsteps, as there is a reason their health is more stable than that of the U.S. It is becoming widely known that 80% of our immune system is in our gut. The immune system deals with aging, infection, disease, and general health. Consuming these probiotic and enzyme rich foods help build the immune system and aide digestion, taking a load off our system.
3. Can I get food poisoning from eating fermented foods?
Fermented foods which are properly made are considered very safe to eat.
According to Fred Breidt a microbiologist with the USDA – “properly fermented vegetables are actually safer than raw vegetables, which might have been exposed to pathogens like E. coli on the farm… With fermented products there is no safety concern. I can flat-out say that. The reason is the lactic acid bacteria that carry out the fermentation are the world’s best killer of other bacteria,”– San Francisco Gate, June 2009.
It does not happen very often, but if an occasional batch goes bad, you will know it. In all the years of fermenting foods I have only had 2 batches go bad. One got mold on it after being the fridge for some time and one smelled so horrible after the fermentation process that you couldn’t even get your nose near it. Both were tossed in the garbage immediately. So you can see, if it does happen, the signs will be there and it would not be easy in the least to consume a contaminated batch.
4. Are lacto-fermented foods available for purchase in the store?
Fermented foods are usually not available for purchase in the store, well at least not at the level of fermentation that is performed at home. The simple reason is that fermented foods are living and continue to ferment, producing gases, which in turn creates pressures that product packaging could not contain. Can we say leaky cracked, exploding jars and burst bags?! No worries though, lacto-fermented foods are easy (and safe) to make at home.
5. Is specialty, expensive, equipment needed to make lacto-fermented foods?
The process of lacto-fermentation takes place in an anaerobic environment, meaning without oxygen. If oxygen is present the wrong organisms can flourish instead of the beneficial ones we desire. During the process of fermentation gases are produced which can cause cracked or even worse, exploding jars… yikes! The good news… there is equipment available that makes lacto-fermentation safe and easy. These specialty fermentation tools keep air our of your ferment while at the same time allowing gases to escape, so you can get less issues with mold or ferments going bad, and avoid the scare or worries of exploding jars. If you look around the internet you will find many different types of vessels or equipment for fermenting, they can range in price from very affordable and economical to quite costly.
6. What is the process or methods used to make lacto-fermented foods?
During lacto-fermentation we are basically growing/culturing a probiotic food. So we can either allow the lactobacilli already present on the vegetables to proliferate or we can add a special culture to get it started. I like to keep it simplest whenever possible.
When fermenting raw vegetables just using some sea salt and/or a salt brine will keep putrefying bacteria at bay until the natural lactobacilli on the veggies can take over. When wanting to ferment a food that is not raw, but cooked or roasted, then it is important to use some sort of culture that contains live lactobacilli since some of the enzymes have been destroyed. The culture can be a commercial culture, usually a powder, available online, or the easier way is to use “whey”. Fresh liquid whey can be easily obtained from plain yogurt with live active cultures or kefir, making it an economical choice over specialty vegetable culture powders.
7. Can I eat lacto-fermented foods even though I’m lactose or dairy intolerant?
The process of lacto-fermentation happens when the starches and sugars within the vegetables are converted to lactic acid by the friendly bacteria lactobacilli. So the term “lacto” in lacto-fermentation actually refers to this production of lactic acid, not lacto as in the lactose in milk. So, the answer to this question is Yes and Maybe No.
YES – If the fermented food was made with the traditional “salt” method.
MAYBE or NO – If the fermented food was made with the addition of “whey”, usually from yogurt or another milk product, those with dairy intolerance’s may not be able to enjoy those types of ferments. In this instance one would have to proceed with trying at their own discretion and risk (non-dairy vegetable culture powders are available to use in place of “whey” if dairy is an issue).
8. How long do fermented foods last?
Lacto-fermented foods differ from commercially processed foods in how they go “bad”. Commercially processed foods become tainted with bad bacteria or mold, becoming unsafe to eat. While lacto-fermented foods do on very rare occasion get mold or go “bad”, this is generally not the case (see question 3). The lacto-fermented foods are alive and continue to “ferment” even in cold storage, just at a slower rate. In our experience, the harder the cell wall of the vegetable the longer they will last after fermentation and stored in the refrigerator. An example would be that cabbage that has a very tough cell wall will last over 6 months in cold storage vs. a pickle (cucumber) that has a soft cell wall will only last maybe 2 or 3 months in cold storage before it becomes too mushy and unpalatable.
9. Why do my fermented foods sometimes taste a little different from batch to batch?
Vegetables can taste different from season to season and farm to farm. The soil conditions, weather, etc come into play – this is the very same reason that fermented foods will taste different at different times of the year. You are making a natural product so tastes can vary slightly, that is normal.
10. My brine has turned from clear to cloudy and/or there is white sediment on the bottom of my jar. Is this normal?
It is normal to have your brine turn cloudy during the fermentation, this is all part of the process. White sediment on the bottom of the jar is just yeast that forms during the fermentation process and is not harmful.
Consuming laco-fermented foods can be a great benefit to your health and well being.
Where did "Like two ships passing in the night" originate?
from knowyourphrase.com
The ocean is a big place, so what are the odds of two ships sailing directly past each other? I have no idea, but it's probably not very high. If it does occur,
though, and it happens to be at night, the ships may shine a light on the other in order to acknowledge the others presence. The shining of the light can be
seen as a greeting, as if the ships are talking to one another, that is, until they pass and disappear into the darkness of the night, never to see the other again. Well, who knows, they might cross paths again at some point.
Anyway, this sort of ship passing situation, at some point, began to be applied to people who meet for the first time, only to part ways shortly after, disappearing into the vastness of the earth. Such people are like two ships passing at night.
The idiom at least over 150 years old. It is written in Tales of a Wayside Inn, by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow in 1863, where it reads:
"Ships that pass in the night, and speak each other in passing, Only a signal shown and a distant voice in the darkness; So on the ocean of life, we pass and speak one another, Only a look and a voice, then darkness again and a silence."
Would you please give me some information on Chia Seeds?
from healthyeating.sfgate.com
Chia seeds have been a staple in Mayan and Aztec diets for centuries. Today, they draw the interest of many people for their health benefits and uses in cooking. It turns out chia seeds are a rich source of nutrients and antioxidants.
Omega-3 Fatty Acids Chia seeds are rich in polyunsaturated fats, especially omega-3 fatty acids. Chia seeds' lipid profile is composed of 60 percent omega-3s, making them one of the richest plant-based sources of these fatty acids -- specifically, of alpha-linolenic acid, or ALA. The omega-3s in chia seeds can help reduce inflammation, enhance cognitive performance and reduce high cholesterol.
Fiber - Fiber is associated with reducing inflammation, lowering cholesterol and regulating bowel function. Chia seeds are an excellent source of fiber, with a whopping 10 grams in only 2 tablespoons. That is one-third of the daily recommended intake of fiber per day.
Antioxidants- Chia seeds are rich in antioxidants that help protect the body from free radicals, aging and cancer. The high antioxidant profile also helps them have a long shelf life. They last almost two years without refrigeration.
Minerals- Two tablespoons of chia seeds contain 18 percent of the DRI for calcium, 35 percent for phosphorus, 24 percent for magnesium and about 50 percent for manganese. These nutrients help you prevent hypertension and maintain a healthy weight, and are important for energy metabolism and a part of DNA synthesis.
Satiety- Satiety is the feeling of being full and satisfied, which helps lower food cravings between meals. The combination of protein, fiber and the gelling action of chia seeds when mixed with liquids all contribute to their satiating effects.
Gluten-Free Chia seeds contain no gluten or grains. Therefore, all of the nutritional benefits of chia seeds can be obtained on a gluten-free diet.
Egg Replacer- The outer layer of chia seeds swells when mixed with liquids to form a gel. This can used in place of eggs to lower cholesterol and increase the nutrient content of foods and baked goods. To make the egg replacement, mix 1 tablespoon of chia seeds with 3 tablespoons of water and let sit for 15 minutes.
Can Be Digested Whole Unlike flaxseeds, which are also high in omega-3 fatty acids, fiber and minerals, chia seeds do not need to be ground in order to obtain their nutrient or egg- replacement benefits.
Dyslipidemia- A study published in the "British Journal of Nutrition" showed that chia seeds as a dietary fat source can lower triglycerides and cholesterol levels while increasing HDL or "good" cholesterol. The study also found that when substituting chia seeds for other fat sources, such as corn oil, the ALA was able to prevent high triglyceride levels and reduce central obesity.
Blood Sugar Regulation- Chia seeds can play an important role in regulating insulin levels. They can reduce insulin resistance and decrease abnormally high levels of insulin in the blood.
Alert: From http://commonhealth.wbur.org
(Chia seeds live up to their superfood name. They are high in Omega 3’s (healthy fat that is an anti-inflammatory), they are an antioxidant, contain important micro-nutrients like magnesium, calcium and manganese and they are also loaded with protein. But possibly Chia’s biggest claim to fame is its fiber content. In 1 oz of chia seeds there are 11 grams of fiber – including both soluble and insoluble fiber.
Insoluble fiber is the kind of fiber that acts like a scrub brush in your colon. Soluble fiber absorbs water so it creates bulk and it makes us feel full.
The interesting thing about Chia seeds is that it can absorb A LOT of water – claims vary from 8-27X their weight in water, which makes it a great food to add to your diet if you’re looking to feel satisfied for a long time without needing to eat a lot – as in trying to lose weight.
Chia seeds are also great at keeping dehydration at bay because it holds so much liquid. However, if you eat dry chia seeds, without giving them any liquid to absorb before ingesting them, they’ll absorb the water within your system and potentially cause a blockage. I can imagine, although I’ve never seen it happen, if you ate a lot of chia seeds without any liquid and they got stuck in your throat or windpipe, it could cause a blockage. But so could flax seeds, which also absorbs water and become gelatinous.
But the fact that you could choke on chia seeds – really, you could choke on any food – should definitely NOT be a reason to avoid them.
Chia seeds (and flax seeds) have huge nutritional benefits, and should definitely be included in a healthy diet. But, they should be eaten accompanied by a liquid, either while eating them or allowing them to soak in advance.)
Who Said "Patience Is a Virtue"?
from yourdictionary.com
The first known publishing of the quote “Patience is a virtue" comes from the poem “Piers Plowman” written between the years 1360 and 1387. Typical of texts from the 14th century, authorship can be debated though literary historians normally attribute most of the text to William Langland. However, there are multiple versions of this poem written at different times with sections believed to be authored by different, unknown people.
Origins of “Patience Is a Virtue”Piers Plowman“Piers Plowman” is a poem about a man, the poet and first narrator, in search of Catholicism and faith according to medieval standards. He does this by having dream visions after falling asleep.
The poem is allegorical meaning the characters are symbolic and also satirical. However, the allegory isn’t vague or abstract.
The various characters include Truth (God), Wrong (Devil), Holy Church, Thought, Wit, Study, Conscience, Liar, Reason, Dowel (do well), Dobet (do better) and Dobest (do best) and others, including the seven deadly sins.
Later, the characters are lead on a quest by Piers Plowman who also becomes the narrator. The Plowman is chosen as the guide due to his seemingly innocent and truthful nature.
Chaucer and a Similar Theme: Ten years later, Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales contains a similar theme, characters from different walks of life gathering together for a quest, and a similar quote, “Patience is a high virtue.”
Latin and French Versions: It is also important to note that Latin and French versions of this quote also appear during that time. This means that this idea belongs to more than one religion and culture.
Common sentiments such as this often make their way into literature of the time, which makes it difficult to pinpoint the exact origin of the text since the quote would have been well known to people through an oral story tradition since many people were not literate.
_
What Is Farina?
from wikipedia and cookinfo
The word farina comes from the Latin farina, meaning meal or flour.
Farina is made from the germ and endosperm of the grain, which is milled to a fine granular consistency and then sifted. Because the bran and most of the germ are removed, this cereal is sometimes enriched with Vitamin B and iron. Farina, by itself, is most often served as a breakfast cereal, but can also be cooked like polenta. Farina can also be used to make farofa. Cream of Wheat, Malt-O-Meal, and Farina are brand names of a type of wheat farina used for breakfast cereal. Farina Mills and Farina Creamy Hot Wheat Cereal are trademarks of the Malt-O-Meal Company.
Farina can also be found on the bottom of some English muffins as it is used to prevent them from sticking to the baking surfaces during the baking process.
When enriched, it is one of the single best sources of dietary iron available, especially for vegetarian diets, with most brands offering as much as 50% of the recommended daily value in a single 120-calorie serving.
Common additives to it for cereal include cinnamon, butter, sugar or brown sugar, honey, maple syrup, grated chocolate, jelly/jam/preserves, dried or fresh fruit and salt. These can help add to an otherwise bland taste.
Farina is made from hard wheat that is not durum wheat. It is similar to semolina, but semolina is made from durum wheat.
Just the just the endosperm of the wheat kernel is used. The bran and most of the germ are removed. The endosperm is then ground finely and sifted. It's not ground as finely as today's white flour is, though: it's more granula, like a meal. It looks like a paler version of cornmeal. It is in fact about the same coarseness as cornmeal, making it coarser than semolina.
Farina is a cheaper flour than semolina. In Italy, it's illegal to use farina commercially to stretch out the semolina when making pasta. It's not in North America. Pasta with farina in it isn't considered as good a quality.
Semolina is possibly what Hungarian recipes mean when they call for "grizes liszt" (gritty flour, "liszt" meaning "flour" in Hungarian.) Cream of Wheat or Farina can be used as a substitute for "griz" in Hungarian recipes.
Cooking Tips: While regular flour will get pasty when wetted and stick to the bowl, both semolina and farina will come away from the sides of the bowl.
Farina can be used as a thickener in dishes where the texture won't matter so much, such on the top of fruit pile fillings. It can absorb a good deal of moisture and juice, to prevent top crusts from getting soggy.
You can cook Farina up as a porridge for breakfast and serve it in a bowl, or cook it a bit thicker and treat it like polenta for a meal later in the day. When cooking it as porridge, Farina cooks up less fluffy than semolina.
You can also use Farina as a savory side grain, as you would rice: In a frying pan or sauce pan, brown Farina in a bit of oil. Add cold water, salt and pepper to taste, and let simmer over medium heat until water has been taken up and the grain can be fluffed. Per 1 part Farina, use 1 part water (e.g. for 1 cup of dry Farina, use 1 cup of water).
Substitutes Cream of Wheat® cereal is based on Farina, though it is not quite the same thing. The farina used for Cream of Wheat is ground a little finer than farina generally is, and a small proportion of other ingredients is also added to the Cream of Wheat cereal. The two, however, can be substituted for each other.
How Do I Restore and Season Rusty Cast Iron?
From MotherEarthNews
There are a few tools that every cook should have in their kitchen - a great seat of knives, a heavy-duty stand mixer, a food processor, stainless steel nesting mixing bowls, a Dutch oven, and a cast iron skillet. Cast iron is one of those things that people either LOVE, or it scares them because they don't understand it. The reasons against cast iron are that:
1. "it rusts"
2. "it’s heavy"
3. "I don't know how to use it."
Once you cook with a well-seasoned cast iron skillet, all of the above reasons just fall away. The problem for most people lies with the “well-seasoned” part. Unless you have a granny ready to hand down some cast iron to you, you’re likely going to have to do some of the seasoning yourself. And what is better way to reduce resources, save money, and preserve a well-loved tradition, than to purchase cast iron at a thrift store or garage sale. Much of what is available out there is pretty rusty and damaged. Follow these simple steps, and you will soon be cooking on a well-seasoned piece of history.
How to Restore Cast Iron
1. Clean the skillet with soap and water. In my humble opinion, this is one of the last times your skillet should need soap.
2. Then put it in a 300 degree Fahrenheit oven for about 10 minutes.
3. Remove from the oven and pour a puddle of oil (I used olive, but any kind will work) and a generously helping of kosher salt in to the center.
4. Using a rag you don't mind getting dirty, paper towels, a very stiff scrub brush, or pieces of newspaper, work the oil and salt in to all parts of the skillet. Pay special attention to the rusty areas.
5. Then, rinse off the skillet, and put back in to the oven until it is mostly dry.
6. Put it on the stovetop on medium heat with another puddle of your oil of choice and work it around with another rag. I used a pastry brush. Let it heat and "cure" on the burner for about 5 minutes. Careful, the oil will be hot!
7. Pour the oil off, and put just a dab of high-heat oil in the skillet. Some people prefer vegetable oil for this part. I'm not a veggie oil fan - including canola - so I used a dab of bacon grease. Let the oil melt/get hot, and then work it around to cover the entire surface of the skillet. Then, using a paper towel or piece of newspaper and remove all excess oil from the pan. Bake for 90 minutes at 300 degrees.
8. Then, everything from step 7, and bake for another 90 minutes at 300 degrees.
You can keep adding oil and baking as many times as you want.
A quick and final note on cast iron. No matter how much seasoning you give it, you'll always need a pinch of fat (butter, oil, shortening, etc.) in a hot pan prior to adding food to it. Always allow ample time - about 5 minutes – for the skillet to heat up prior to adding the fat and the food.
I've heard you can make a tea from pine trees, please explain.
White Pine Needle Tea: Healing
From manataka.org
Pine needle tea has been around for a very long time. It was first used by Native American’s for its healing properties. In fact they introduced pine needle tea to the early settlers (in Canada and New England) as a cure for scurvy, which is caused by lack of vitamin C.
Pine needle tea is great for colds, chest congestion and upper respiratory illnesses, though it is also rumored to help with many other ailments as well. You can do your own search on the web to find out more. It is packed with antioxidants, vitamin C and vitamin A.
Luckily pine trees are found in abundance all over the U.S. so it’s an easy and free tea that you can make at home.
* ½ cup of pine needles, green young needles are best
* 1.5 pints of water
* Bring water to boil in a stainless steel pan (do not use aluminum)
* Add the pine needles, reduce heat to a simmer for 20 minutes to overnight.
* Strain needles and drink warm or cold
you can also put them in unbleached tea bags
The tea should be red in color with a little oil floating on top.
You can add honey or cinnamon if you like, (since I have type 2 diabetes I add cinnamon). It really doesn’t taste like pine; it has a very mild flavor.
White pine needles have 5 needles on each sprig… but you can use any pine or fir tree (though the recipe may differ).
Remember: Some pine and fir trees are poisonous.
Pour boiled water in a cup and do not boil needles in a sealed jar as this may release harmful turpentine.
Explain this quote please.
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step." - Lao-tzu, The Way of Lao-tzu
Chinese philosopher (604 BC - 531 BC)
- Although this is the popular form of this quotation, a more correct translation from the original Chinese would be "The journey of a thousand miles begins beneath one's feet." Rather than emphasizing the first step, Lau Tzu regarded action as something that arises naturally from stillness. Another potential phrasing would be "Even the longest journey must begin where you stand." [note by Michael Moncur, September 01, 2004]
Where Did "Kill Two Birds With One Stone" originate?
This is what I found on - The Grammarphobia Blog Bird play August 2nd, 2013 Question: What is the origin of the unfortunate phrase “to kill two birds with one stone”?
The expression is rarely used literally. In fact, the phrase was used figuratively when it first showed up in writing in the 1600s and it has generally been used that way ever since.
The Oxford English Dictionary describes the usage as a proverbial phrase meaning “to accomplish two different purposes by the same act or proceeding.”
The earliest citation in the OED is from a 1655-56 exchange of views about free will between the philosopher Thomas Hobbes and the Anglican Bishop John Bramhall: “T. H. thinks to kill two birds with one stone, and satisfy two arguments with one answer.”
However, we’ve found an earlier example in A Complete History of the Present Seat of War in Africa Between the Spaniards and Algerines, a 1632 book by an author identified on the title page as “J. Morgan Gent.”
The gentleman writes that a Berber military chief “came resolved to kill two Birds with one Stone, return the Spaniards their Compliments, and conduct his insolent Turks, where he was certain at least some of them would be knocked on the head.”
We’ve seen quite a bit of speculation online that the expression originated in other languages—Latin, Greek, Chinese, and so on—but we’ve seen no evidence that English borrowed the usage.
A typical theory is that the expression originated with Ovid, but the closest example we’ve found in the Roman poet’s writing is the scene from Metamorphoses where Tiresias strikes two copulating snakes with a stick and is transformed into a woman.
Many online “experts” believe the usage originated in the story of Daedalus and Icarus, who escaped from the Labyrinth on Crete by making wings and flying out, according to Greek mythology.
Daedalus supposedly got the feathers to make the wings by killing two birds with one stone. However, neither Ovid nor Appolodorus, the principal sources of the myth, say anything about how Daedalus got the feathers.
In the 1600s, when the expression arrived in English, one sense of the word “bird” was a game bird, especially a partridge, according to the OED. And one sense of the term “stone” (or “gunstone”) at that time was a bullet.
A more likely explanation is that the expression was influenced by one that appeared nearly a century earlier: “to stop two gaps with one bush.”
The OED defines the earlier usage as “to accomplish two ends at once” or (you guessed it) “to kill two birds with one stone.”
The first citation for this usage is from John Heywood’s 1546 collection of proverbs: “I will learne, to stop two gaps with one bushe.”
And, with that, we’ll stop.
How Did Labor Day Become a Holiday?
http://www.dol.gov/laborday/history.htm
Labor Day, the first Monday in September, is a creation of the labor movement and is dedicated to the social and economic achievements of American workers. It constitutes a yearly national tribute to the contributions workers have made to the strength, prosperity, and well-being of our country.
Labor Day Legislation - Through the years the nation gave increasing emphasis to Labor Day. The first governmental recognition came through municipal ordinances passed during 1885 and 1886. From these, a movement developed to secure state legislation. The first state bill was introduced into the New York legislature, but the first to become law was passed by Oregon on February 21, 1887. During the year four more states — Colorado, Massachusetts, New Jersey, and New York — created the Labor Day holiday by legislative enactment. By the end of the decade Connecticut, Nebraska, and Pennsylvania had followed suit. By 1894, 23 other states had adopted the holiday in honor of workers, and on June 28 of that year, Congress passed an act making the first Monday in September of each year a legal holiday in the District of Columbia and the territories.
Founder of Labor Day - More than 100 years after the first Labor Day observance, there is still some doubt as to who first proposed the holiday for workers.
Some records show that Peter J. McGuire, general secretary of the Brotherhood of Carpenters and Joiners and a cofounder of the American Federation of Labor, was first in suggesting a day to honor those "who from rude nature have delved and carved all the grandeur we behold."
But Peter McGuire's place in Labor Day history has not gone unchallenged. Many believe that Matthew Maguire, a machinist, not Peter McGuire, founded the holiday. Recent research seems to support the contention that Matthew Maguire, later the secretary of Local 344 of the International Association of Machinists in Paterson, N.J., proposed the holiday in 1882 while serving as secretary of the Central Labor Union in New York. What is clear is that the Central Labor Union adopted a Labor Day proposal and appointed a committee to plan a demonstration and picnic.
The First Labor Day - The first Labor Day holiday was celebrated on Tuesday, September 5, 1882, in New York City, in accordance with the plans of the Central Labor Union. The Central Labor Union held its second Labor Day holiday just a year later, on September 5, 1883.
In 1884 the first Monday in September was selected as the holiday, as originally proposed, and the Central Labor Union urged similar organizations in other cities to follow the example of New York and celebrate a "workingmen's holiday" on that date. The idea spread with the growth of labor organizations, and in 1885 Labor Day was celebrated in many industrial centers of the country.
A Nationwide Holiday - The form that the observance and celebration of Labor Day should take was outlined in the first proposal of the holiday — a street parade to exhibit to the public "the strength and esprit de corps of the trade and labor organizations" of the community, followed by a festival for the recreation and amusement of the workers and their families. This became the pattern for the celebrations of Labor Day. Speeches by prominent men and women were introduced later, as more emphasis was placed upon the economic and civic significance of the holiday. Still later, by a resolution of the American Federation of Labor convention of 1909, the Sunday preceding Labor Day was adopted as Labor Sunday and dedicated to the spiritual and educational aspects of the labor movement.
The character of the Labor Day celebration has undergone a change in recent years, especially in large industrial centers where mass displays and huge parades have proved a problem. This change, however, is more a shift in emphasis and medium of expression. Labor Day addresses by leading union officials, industrialists, educators, clerics and government officials are given wide coverage in newspapers, radio, and television.
The vital force of labor added materially to the highest standard of living and the greatest production the world has ever known and has brought us closer to the realization of our traditional ideals of economic and political democracy. It is appropriate, therefore, that the nation pay tribute on Labor Day to the creator of so much of the nation's strength, freedom, and leadership — the American worker.
http://www.dol.gov/laborday/history.htm
Labor Day, the first Monday in September, is a creation of the labor movement and is dedicated to the social and economic achievements of American workers. It constitutes a yearly national tribute to the contributions workers have made to the strength, prosperity, and well-being of our country.
Labor Day Legislation - Through the years the nation gave increasing emphasis to Labor Day. The first governmental recognition came through municipal ordinances passed during 1885 and 1886. From these, a movement developed to secure state legislation. The first state bill was introduced into the New York legislature, but the first to become law was passed by Oregon on February 21, 1887. During the year four more states — Colorado, Massachusetts, New Jersey, and New York — created the Labor Day holiday by legislative enactment. By the end of the decade Connecticut, Nebraska, and Pennsylvania had followed suit. By 1894, 23 other states had adopted the holiday in honor of workers, and on June 28 of that year, Congress passed an act making the first Monday in September of each year a legal holiday in the District of Columbia and the territories.
Founder of Labor Day - More than 100 years after the first Labor Day observance, there is still some doubt as to who first proposed the holiday for workers.
Some records show that Peter J. McGuire, general secretary of the Brotherhood of Carpenters and Joiners and a cofounder of the American Federation of Labor, was first in suggesting a day to honor those "who from rude nature have delved and carved all the grandeur we behold."
But Peter McGuire's place in Labor Day history has not gone unchallenged. Many believe that Matthew Maguire, a machinist, not Peter McGuire, founded the holiday. Recent research seems to support the contention that Matthew Maguire, later the secretary of Local 344 of the International Association of Machinists in Paterson, N.J., proposed the holiday in 1882 while serving as secretary of the Central Labor Union in New York. What is clear is that the Central Labor Union adopted a Labor Day proposal and appointed a committee to plan a demonstration and picnic.
The First Labor Day - The first Labor Day holiday was celebrated on Tuesday, September 5, 1882, in New York City, in accordance with the plans of the Central Labor Union. The Central Labor Union held its second Labor Day holiday just a year later, on September 5, 1883.
In 1884 the first Monday in September was selected as the holiday, as originally proposed, and the Central Labor Union urged similar organizations in other cities to follow the example of New York and celebrate a "workingmen's holiday" on that date. The idea spread with the growth of labor organizations, and in 1885 Labor Day was celebrated in many industrial centers of the country.
A Nationwide Holiday - The form that the observance and celebration of Labor Day should take was outlined in the first proposal of the holiday — a street parade to exhibit to the public "the strength and esprit de corps of the trade and labor organizations" of the community, followed by a festival for the recreation and amusement of the workers and their families. This became the pattern for the celebrations of Labor Day. Speeches by prominent men and women were introduced later, as more emphasis was placed upon the economic and civic significance of the holiday. Still later, by a resolution of the American Federation of Labor convention of 1909, the Sunday preceding Labor Day was adopted as Labor Sunday and dedicated to the spiritual and educational aspects of the labor movement.
The character of the Labor Day celebration has undergone a change in recent years, especially in large industrial centers where mass displays and huge parades have proved a problem. This change, however, is more a shift in emphasis and medium of expression. Labor Day addresses by leading union officials, industrialists, educators, clerics and government officials are given wide coverage in newspapers, radio, and television.
The vital force of labor added materially to the highest standard of living and the greatest production the world has ever known and has brought us closer to the realization of our traditional ideals of economic and political democracy. It is appropriate, therefore, that the nation pay tribute on Labor Day to the creator of so much of the nation's strength, freedom, and leadership — the American worker.
What Are the Benefits of Corn Silk?
adapted from Livestrong.com and WebMD.com
Cornsilk is drawn from the stigmas of female corn plants. It has been used by native Americans for centuries as a natural remedy for many ailments and is still used today in several different applications. Corn silk is high in several nutrients, including vitamin K, and can be combined with other herbs for different types of treatment, particularly those involving problems of the the urinary tract.
The cornsilk herb is a soothing diuretic that can benefit the urinary tract in numerous ways. It can be given to children as a method of treating enuresis--more commonly known as bed wetting. It is also a common alternative to antibiotics when treating a urinary infection resulting from bacteria. Excessive use of antibacterial medications can lead to bacterial resistance to these medications, and complications can arise in children who take pharmaceutical medications. Cornsilk consumption also helps treat inflammation in the bladder or urethra. Cornsilk is usually taken by steeping 2 tsp. of the herb in boiling water for 10 to 15 minutes. You can drink this tea up to three times daily. Cornsilk tinctures are an alternative--3 to 6 ml of tincture should be taken three times daily.
Cornsilk is sometimes used to treat and prevent the development of kidney stones in adults. Infections of the kidney can also be treated by taking cornsilk daily. Because of its affect on the kidneys, research indicates that the herb can help lower high blood pressure in the circulatory system.
Other Benefits According to the PhytoMed Health Group, there are additional miscellaneous benefits that can result from taking cornsilk. These include the treatment of obesity, disorders of the prostate, carpel tunnel syndrome and PMS. Cornsilk can also help eliminate boils from the skin.
The long shiny fibers at the top of an ear of corn are called corn silk. Corn silk is used as a medicine.
Corn silk is used for bladder infections, inflammation of the urinary system, inflammation of the prostate, kidney stones, and bedwetting. It is also used to treat congestive heart failure, diabetes, high blood pressure, fatigue, and high cholesterol levels.
How does it work?Corn silk contains proteins, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, and fiber. It also contains chemicals which might work like water pills (diuretics), and it might alter blood sugar levels, and help reduce inflammation.
adapted from Livestrong.com and WebMD.com
Cornsilk is drawn from the stigmas of female corn plants. It has been used by native Americans for centuries as a natural remedy for many ailments and is still used today in several different applications. Corn silk is high in several nutrients, including vitamin K, and can be combined with other herbs for different types of treatment, particularly those involving problems of the the urinary tract.
The cornsilk herb is a soothing diuretic that can benefit the urinary tract in numerous ways. It can be given to children as a method of treating enuresis--more commonly known as bed wetting. It is also a common alternative to antibiotics when treating a urinary infection resulting from bacteria. Excessive use of antibacterial medications can lead to bacterial resistance to these medications, and complications can arise in children who take pharmaceutical medications. Cornsilk consumption also helps treat inflammation in the bladder or urethra. Cornsilk is usually taken by steeping 2 tsp. of the herb in boiling water for 10 to 15 minutes. You can drink this tea up to three times daily. Cornsilk tinctures are an alternative--3 to 6 ml of tincture should be taken three times daily.
Cornsilk is sometimes used to treat and prevent the development of kidney stones in adults. Infections of the kidney can also be treated by taking cornsilk daily. Because of its affect on the kidneys, research indicates that the herb can help lower high blood pressure in the circulatory system.
Other Benefits According to the PhytoMed Health Group, there are additional miscellaneous benefits that can result from taking cornsilk. These include the treatment of obesity, disorders of the prostate, carpel tunnel syndrome and PMS. Cornsilk can also help eliminate boils from the skin.
The long shiny fibers at the top of an ear of corn are called corn silk. Corn silk is used as a medicine.
Corn silk is used for bladder infections, inflammation of the urinary system, inflammation of the prostate, kidney stones, and bedwetting. It is also used to treat congestive heart failure, diabetes, high blood pressure, fatigue, and high cholesterol levels.
How does it work?Corn silk contains proteins, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, and fiber. It also contains chemicals which might work like water pills (diuretics), and it might alter blood sugar levels, and help reduce inflammation.
Where Did the Red Poppies Originate for Memorial Day?
This is an interesting question and one I had always wondered about. Please go to this site. It has a really good explanation. http://www.eattheweeds.com/corn-poppy/
This is an interesting question and one I had always wondered about. Please go to this site. It has a really good explanation. http://www.eattheweeds.com/corn-poppy/
Difference Between Rubbed Sage and Ground Sage?
The difference between rubbed sage and ground sage is the texture. Rubbed sage refers to sage that has been rubbed onto the food in it's whole leaf form. Ground sage is sage that has been dried and ground into a powder form and is sprinkled onto food for flavor.
The difference between rubbed sage and ground sage is the texture. Rubbed sage refers to sage that has been rubbed onto the food in it's whole leaf form. Ground sage is sage that has been dried and ground into a powder form and is sprinkled onto food for flavor.
Pics on Chicken Poo Please?
If you raise chickens, as I do, you need to keep a keen eye on them. This is my second try at raising them and the first time I didn't know a thing and just nilly willy raised them. I never lost a one and I've got to say they got little care or attention. This time, before I undertook raising chickens, I educated myself and tried to do everything possible correctly and I've already lost 1 so - go figure!! Here is a site that has Chicken Poo Pictures or try this one so that you can at least keep an eye on your chickens in one (disgusting) aspect anyway.
If you raise chickens, as I do, you need to keep a keen eye on them. This is my second try at raising them and the first time I didn't know a thing and just nilly willy raised them. I never lost a one and I've got to say they got little care or attention. This time, before I undertook raising chickens, I educated myself and tried to do everything possible correctly and I've already lost 1 so - go figure!! Here is a site that has Chicken Poo Pictures or try this one so that you can at least keep an eye on your chickens in one (disgusting) aspect anyway.
Are Dandelions Really Good For You?
by sunwarrior.com
Dandelion is most often thought of as a pesky weed that takes over in lawns, gardens, meadows, and even pops up in cracked sidewalks and pavement. It is invasive and pervasive. Lucky for us, it is also an excellent food and herbal medicine that anyone can find, grow, and put to use.
Dandelion is a very rich source of beta-carotene which we convert into vitamin A. This flowering plant is also rich in vitamin C, fiber, potassium, iron, calcium, magnesium, zinc, and phosphorus. It is a good place to get B complex vitamins, trace minerals, organic sodium, and even vitamin D. Dandelion contains protein too, more than spinach. It has been eaten for thousands of years and used to treat anemia, scurvy, skin problems, blood disorders, and depression.
Seeds grow readily in your garden, planter boxes, or pots. If you collect them wild, try to choose ones you know have not been subjected to pesticides, fertilizers, and other chemicals. The ones in your lawn are not the best. Pick them instead from a mountain meadow or abandoned lot. Seeds can be bought or you can gather them from the familiar puff balls you see each summer. Dandelion leaves can also be found fresh in some health food markets or as a freeze-dried herb. Dandelion tea, capsules, and tinctures are also available.
Digestive Aid – Dandelion acts as a mild laxative that promotes digestion, stimulates appetite, and balances the natural and beneficial bacteria in the intestines.
Kidney – This weed-like superfood is a diuretic that helps the kidneys clear out waste, salt, and excess water. This inhibits microbial growth in the urinary system too.
Liver – Dandelion has been shown to improve liver function by removing toxins and reestablishing hydration and electrolyte balance.
Antioxidants – Every part of the dandelion plant is rich in antioxidants that prevent free-radical damage to cells and DNA, slowing down the aging process in our cells.
Cancer – Dandelion acts against cancer to slow its growth and prevent its spread. The leaves are especially rich in the antioxidants and phytonutrients that combat cancer.
Diabetes – Recent animal studies show promise that dandelion helps regulate blood sugar and insulin levels.
High Blood Pressure – As a diuretic dandelion increases urination which then lowers blood pressure. The fiber and potassium in dandelion also regulate blood pressure.
Cholesterol – Animal studies have shown that dandelion lowers and control cholesterol levels.
Gallbladder – Dandelion increases bile production and reduces inflammation to help with gallbladder problems and blockages.
Inflammation – Dandelion contains essential fatty acids and phytonutrients that reduce inflammation throughout the body. This can relieve pain and swelling.
Immune System – Animal studies also show that dandelion boosts immune function and fights off microbes and fungi.
Dandelion leaves, flowers, and roots are all edible. They have a slightly bitter flavor that can be minimized by harvesting them in the fall or spring. Cooking cuts the bitter flavor as well though the leaves make a great addition to raw salads.
Dandelion is generally considered safe in food and medicinal levels. Some people may have allergic reactions to dandelion. Anyone with an allergy to ragweed, chrysanthemum, marigold, chamomile, yarrow, or daisy should avoid dandelion and anyone pregnant, nursing, or taking prescription drugs should talk to a health care professional before adding something new to their diet.
Health Benefits of Dandelions
by organicfacts.com
The health benefits of dandelions include the following:
Bone Health: Dandelions are rich in calcium, which is essential for the growth and strength of bones, and they are rich in antioxidants like vitamin-C and Luteolin, which protect bones from age-related damage. This inevitable damage is often due to free radicals, and is frequently seen as bone frailty, weakness, and decreased density.
Liver Disorders: Dandelions can help the liver in many ways. While the antioxidants like vitamin-C and Luteolin keep the liver functioning in optimal gear and protect it from aging, other compounds in dandelions help treat hemorrhaging in the liver. Furthermore, dandelions aid in maintaining the proper flow of bile, while also stimulating the liver and promoting digestion. Proper digestion can reduce the chances of constipation, which in turn reduces the risk of more serious gastrointestinal issues.
Diabetes: Dandelion juice can help diabetic patients by stimulating the production of insulin from the pancreas, thereby keeping the blood sugar level low. Since dandelions are diuretic in nature, they increase urination in diabetic patients, which helps remove the excess sugar from the body. Diabetics are also prone to renal problems, so the diuretic properties of dandelion can help removing the sugar deposition in the kidneys through increased urination. Furthermore, dandelion juice is slightly bitter to taste, which effectively lowers the sugar level in the blood, as all bitter substances do. Consistently lower blood sugar and a more regulated system of insulin release prevents dangerous spikes and plunges for diabetic patients, so dandelion extracts can be a perfect solution!
Urinary Disorders: Dandelions are highly diuretic in nature, so they help eliminate deposits of toxic substances in the kidneys and the urinary tract. The disinfectant properties of dandelions also inhibit microbial growth in the urinary system. In fact, the diuretic properties of dandelions are so strong that in France, the flower is also called “pissenlit” which means “urinate in bed”.
Skin Care: Dandelion sap, also known as dandelion milk, is useful in treating skin diseases which are caused by microbial and fungal infections. This treatment stems from the fact that the sap is highly alkaline and has germicidal, insecticidal and fungicidal properties. You should be careful while using this sap, and avoid any contact with the eyes. This sap can be used on itches, ringworm, eczema, and other skin conditions without the risk of side effects or hormonal disturbances commonly caused by pharmaceutical skin treatments.
Acne: Dandelion juice is a good detoxifier, diuretic, stimulant and antioxidant. These four properties make it a great treatment for acne. Before we know how it treats acne, we must know what causes it. Acne typically arises during the teenage years, when the body undergoes many physiological and hormonal changes. The flood of new hormones that bring about the changes in the body must be regulated, but if they don’t remain at a healthy ratio, they tend to deposit somewhat toxic substances into the body. These toxins tend to come out along with sweat through the sweat glands or sebaceous glands on the skin.
During these hormonal changes, these glands secrete more oils which, when mixed with dead skin, block the pores and the secretion of toxins is obstructed. Therefore, the toxic substances cannot escape and eventually result in acne. This situation is exacerbated by the microbial infections on the effected places. Dandelion juice, being a stimulant, diuretic and detoxifier in nature, can help regulate proper secretion of hormones, increase sweating and widen the pores. All of these factors help to facilitate the removal of toxins through sweat and urine. Furthermore, dandelion sap, if externally applied to areas with acne, can inhibit microbial infection and reduce the frustrating signs of acne. Also, it can speed up healing due to its vitamin-C content, so the scars and ugly red inflammation that traditionally follows acne treatment will be less noticeable.
Weight Loss: Our urine consists of up to 4% fat, so the more we urinate, the more water and fats are lost from the body. Dandelions, being diuretic in nature, promotes urination and thereby helps lose the dreaded “water weight” without causing any side effects. Furthermore, dandelions are low in calories, like most leafy greens, but for the small expense of calories (~1oo cal./4 cups), you get a huge amount of beneficial side effects. This is also why dandelions are sometimes used as sweeteners, because they are not packed with unhealthy sugars.
Cancer: Dandelions are high in antioxidants, such as vitamin-C and Luteolin, which reduce the free radicals (major cancer-causing agents) in the body, thereby reducing the risk of cancer. It also detoxifies the body, which further helps protect from the development of tumors and various cancers. Luteolin actually poisons essential components of cancer cells when it binds to them, rendering them ineffective and unable to reproduce. This characteristic has been demonstrated most notably with prostate cancer, although there are other studies being done.
Jaundice: Jaundice is primarily a disorder of the liver in which the organ starts overproducing bile, which ultimately enters the bloodstream and wreaks havoc on the body’s metabolism. The excess bile is also reflected through color of the skin, and eyes, which typically develop a yellow tint. The treatment of jaundice includes three main steps. First, you need to curb the production of bile. Second, you must remove the excess bile from the body, and third, you have to fight the underlying viral infection.
Dandelions are very helpful in all of these steps. It promotes liver health and regulates bile production. Being diuretic in nature, it promotes urination, where the excess bile can be eliminated. Finally, as an antioxidant and disinfectant due to the presence of vitamin-C and Luteolin, it fights viral infections as well. It is most beneficial when taken with sugarcane juice, since it replaces the sugar in the body that is significantly lowered due to the impact of excess bile. A lack of sugar can cause extreme fatigue and weakness, so dandelions help boost your energy levels after infection!
Gall Bladder Disorders: Dandelions are very beneficial for the gall bladder and liver, because they improve their general functioning, protects them from ill effects of oxidants and infections, and regulates the various secretions from both organs.
Constipation: Certain components of dandelion, namely the high levels of dietary fiber, make it a beneficial aid for digestion and proper intestinal health. Dietary fiber stimulates healthy bowel movements by adding bulk to stool, and also reduces chances of constipation as well as diarrhea. It regulates bowel movements, which can prevent more serious gastrointestinal issues. It is commonly prescribed for children who are experiencing constipation, as it is relatively soothing on the stomach. It has also been used to stimulate the appetite, particularly following trauma or surgery.
Anemia: Dandelions have relatively good levels of iron, vitamins, and protein content. While iron is the integral part of hemoglobin in the blood, vitamins like vitamin-B and protein are essential for the formation of red blood cells and certain other components of the blood. This way dandelion can help anemic people keep their condition in check.
High Blood Pressure: Urination is an effective way of lowering blood pressure. In fact, most of the modern medicines for lowering blood pressure are based on this phenomenon. Dandelion juice, being diuretic in nature, increases urination, both in quantity and frequency. Therefore, it helps lower high blood pressure. The fiber in dandelion is also helpful in reducing cholesterol and thereby assists in lowering blood pressure, since cholesterol is one of the factors that increases blood pressure. Finally, there is the high potassium content of dandelions, which is very effective in lowering blood pressure by replacing sodium.
Other Benefits: Dandelions can also be used as a vegetable and is a good source of fiber. It promotes digestion, and in the past, it was used to treat scurvy, because of its high levels of vitamin-C. It also has healing effects on dyspepsia, infections in the stomach, intestines and urinary system.
A Few Words of Warning: Dandelions can be helpful to diabetics by lowering blood sugar, but for patients already taking blood-sugar modulators, this can result in hypoglycemia, an equally dangerous condition. Consult your doctor before adding dandelion supplements on top of your normal treatment. Also, the milk sap of dandelions has been known to cause itchiness, irritation, or allergic reactions on the skin, and should be kept away from the eyes. Finally, there is a rare type of fiber in dandelions called inulin, and some people have a predisposed sensitivity or allergy to it which can be quite severe. When first adding dandelion greens to your diet in any way, start small and closely monitor your body’s response.
by sunwarrior.com
Dandelion is most often thought of as a pesky weed that takes over in lawns, gardens, meadows, and even pops up in cracked sidewalks and pavement. It is invasive and pervasive. Lucky for us, it is also an excellent food and herbal medicine that anyone can find, grow, and put to use.
Dandelion is a very rich source of beta-carotene which we convert into vitamin A. This flowering plant is also rich in vitamin C, fiber, potassium, iron, calcium, magnesium, zinc, and phosphorus. It is a good place to get B complex vitamins, trace minerals, organic sodium, and even vitamin D. Dandelion contains protein too, more than spinach. It has been eaten for thousands of years and used to treat anemia, scurvy, skin problems, blood disorders, and depression.
Seeds grow readily in your garden, planter boxes, or pots. If you collect them wild, try to choose ones you know have not been subjected to pesticides, fertilizers, and other chemicals. The ones in your lawn are not the best. Pick them instead from a mountain meadow or abandoned lot. Seeds can be bought or you can gather them from the familiar puff balls you see each summer. Dandelion leaves can also be found fresh in some health food markets or as a freeze-dried herb. Dandelion tea, capsules, and tinctures are also available.
Digestive Aid – Dandelion acts as a mild laxative that promotes digestion, stimulates appetite, and balances the natural and beneficial bacteria in the intestines.
Kidney – This weed-like superfood is a diuretic that helps the kidneys clear out waste, salt, and excess water. This inhibits microbial growth in the urinary system too.
Liver – Dandelion has been shown to improve liver function by removing toxins and reestablishing hydration and electrolyte balance.
Antioxidants – Every part of the dandelion plant is rich in antioxidants that prevent free-radical damage to cells and DNA, slowing down the aging process in our cells.
Cancer – Dandelion acts against cancer to slow its growth and prevent its spread. The leaves are especially rich in the antioxidants and phytonutrients that combat cancer.
Diabetes – Recent animal studies show promise that dandelion helps regulate blood sugar and insulin levels.
High Blood Pressure – As a diuretic dandelion increases urination which then lowers blood pressure. The fiber and potassium in dandelion also regulate blood pressure.
Cholesterol – Animal studies have shown that dandelion lowers and control cholesterol levels.
Gallbladder – Dandelion increases bile production and reduces inflammation to help with gallbladder problems and blockages.
Inflammation – Dandelion contains essential fatty acids and phytonutrients that reduce inflammation throughout the body. This can relieve pain and swelling.
Immune System – Animal studies also show that dandelion boosts immune function and fights off microbes and fungi.
Dandelion leaves, flowers, and roots are all edible. They have a slightly bitter flavor that can be minimized by harvesting them in the fall or spring. Cooking cuts the bitter flavor as well though the leaves make a great addition to raw salads.
Dandelion is generally considered safe in food and medicinal levels. Some people may have allergic reactions to dandelion. Anyone with an allergy to ragweed, chrysanthemum, marigold, chamomile, yarrow, or daisy should avoid dandelion and anyone pregnant, nursing, or taking prescription drugs should talk to a health care professional before adding something new to their diet.
Health Benefits of Dandelions
by organicfacts.com
The health benefits of dandelions include the following:
Bone Health: Dandelions are rich in calcium, which is essential for the growth and strength of bones, and they are rich in antioxidants like vitamin-C and Luteolin, which protect bones from age-related damage. This inevitable damage is often due to free radicals, and is frequently seen as bone frailty, weakness, and decreased density.
Liver Disorders: Dandelions can help the liver in many ways. While the antioxidants like vitamin-C and Luteolin keep the liver functioning in optimal gear and protect it from aging, other compounds in dandelions help treat hemorrhaging in the liver. Furthermore, dandelions aid in maintaining the proper flow of bile, while also stimulating the liver and promoting digestion. Proper digestion can reduce the chances of constipation, which in turn reduces the risk of more serious gastrointestinal issues.
Diabetes: Dandelion juice can help diabetic patients by stimulating the production of insulin from the pancreas, thereby keeping the blood sugar level low. Since dandelions are diuretic in nature, they increase urination in diabetic patients, which helps remove the excess sugar from the body. Diabetics are also prone to renal problems, so the diuretic properties of dandelion can help removing the sugar deposition in the kidneys through increased urination. Furthermore, dandelion juice is slightly bitter to taste, which effectively lowers the sugar level in the blood, as all bitter substances do. Consistently lower blood sugar and a more regulated system of insulin release prevents dangerous spikes and plunges for diabetic patients, so dandelion extracts can be a perfect solution!
Urinary Disorders: Dandelions are highly diuretic in nature, so they help eliminate deposits of toxic substances in the kidneys and the urinary tract. The disinfectant properties of dandelions also inhibit microbial growth in the urinary system. In fact, the diuretic properties of dandelions are so strong that in France, the flower is also called “pissenlit” which means “urinate in bed”.
Skin Care: Dandelion sap, also known as dandelion milk, is useful in treating skin diseases which are caused by microbial and fungal infections. This treatment stems from the fact that the sap is highly alkaline and has germicidal, insecticidal and fungicidal properties. You should be careful while using this sap, and avoid any contact with the eyes. This sap can be used on itches, ringworm, eczema, and other skin conditions without the risk of side effects or hormonal disturbances commonly caused by pharmaceutical skin treatments.
Acne: Dandelion juice is a good detoxifier, diuretic, stimulant and antioxidant. These four properties make it a great treatment for acne. Before we know how it treats acne, we must know what causes it. Acne typically arises during the teenage years, when the body undergoes many physiological and hormonal changes. The flood of new hormones that bring about the changes in the body must be regulated, but if they don’t remain at a healthy ratio, they tend to deposit somewhat toxic substances into the body. These toxins tend to come out along with sweat through the sweat glands or sebaceous glands on the skin.
During these hormonal changes, these glands secrete more oils which, when mixed with dead skin, block the pores and the secretion of toxins is obstructed. Therefore, the toxic substances cannot escape and eventually result in acne. This situation is exacerbated by the microbial infections on the effected places. Dandelion juice, being a stimulant, diuretic and detoxifier in nature, can help regulate proper secretion of hormones, increase sweating and widen the pores. All of these factors help to facilitate the removal of toxins through sweat and urine. Furthermore, dandelion sap, if externally applied to areas with acne, can inhibit microbial infection and reduce the frustrating signs of acne. Also, it can speed up healing due to its vitamin-C content, so the scars and ugly red inflammation that traditionally follows acne treatment will be less noticeable.
Weight Loss: Our urine consists of up to 4% fat, so the more we urinate, the more water and fats are lost from the body. Dandelions, being diuretic in nature, promotes urination and thereby helps lose the dreaded “water weight” without causing any side effects. Furthermore, dandelions are low in calories, like most leafy greens, but for the small expense of calories (~1oo cal./4 cups), you get a huge amount of beneficial side effects. This is also why dandelions are sometimes used as sweeteners, because they are not packed with unhealthy sugars.
Cancer: Dandelions are high in antioxidants, such as vitamin-C and Luteolin, which reduce the free radicals (major cancer-causing agents) in the body, thereby reducing the risk of cancer. It also detoxifies the body, which further helps protect from the development of tumors and various cancers. Luteolin actually poisons essential components of cancer cells when it binds to them, rendering them ineffective and unable to reproduce. This characteristic has been demonstrated most notably with prostate cancer, although there are other studies being done.
Jaundice: Jaundice is primarily a disorder of the liver in which the organ starts overproducing bile, which ultimately enters the bloodstream and wreaks havoc on the body’s metabolism. The excess bile is also reflected through color of the skin, and eyes, which typically develop a yellow tint. The treatment of jaundice includes three main steps. First, you need to curb the production of bile. Second, you must remove the excess bile from the body, and third, you have to fight the underlying viral infection.
Dandelions are very helpful in all of these steps. It promotes liver health and regulates bile production. Being diuretic in nature, it promotes urination, where the excess bile can be eliminated. Finally, as an antioxidant and disinfectant due to the presence of vitamin-C and Luteolin, it fights viral infections as well. It is most beneficial when taken with sugarcane juice, since it replaces the sugar in the body that is significantly lowered due to the impact of excess bile. A lack of sugar can cause extreme fatigue and weakness, so dandelions help boost your energy levels after infection!
Gall Bladder Disorders: Dandelions are very beneficial for the gall bladder and liver, because they improve their general functioning, protects them from ill effects of oxidants and infections, and regulates the various secretions from both organs.
Constipation: Certain components of dandelion, namely the high levels of dietary fiber, make it a beneficial aid for digestion and proper intestinal health. Dietary fiber stimulates healthy bowel movements by adding bulk to stool, and also reduces chances of constipation as well as diarrhea. It regulates bowel movements, which can prevent more serious gastrointestinal issues. It is commonly prescribed for children who are experiencing constipation, as it is relatively soothing on the stomach. It has also been used to stimulate the appetite, particularly following trauma or surgery.
Anemia: Dandelions have relatively good levels of iron, vitamins, and protein content. While iron is the integral part of hemoglobin in the blood, vitamins like vitamin-B and protein are essential for the formation of red blood cells and certain other components of the blood. This way dandelion can help anemic people keep their condition in check.
High Blood Pressure: Urination is an effective way of lowering blood pressure. In fact, most of the modern medicines for lowering blood pressure are based on this phenomenon. Dandelion juice, being diuretic in nature, increases urination, both in quantity and frequency. Therefore, it helps lower high blood pressure. The fiber in dandelion is also helpful in reducing cholesterol and thereby assists in lowering blood pressure, since cholesterol is one of the factors that increases blood pressure. Finally, there is the high potassium content of dandelions, which is very effective in lowering blood pressure by replacing sodium.
Other Benefits: Dandelions can also be used as a vegetable and is a good source of fiber. It promotes digestion, and in the past, it was used to treat scurvy, because of its high levels of vitamin-C. It also has healing effects on dyspepsia, infections in the stomach, intestines and urinary system.
A Few Words of Warning: Dandelions can be helpful to diabetics by lowering blood sugar, but for patients already taking blood-sugar modulators, this can result in hypoglycemia, an equally dangerous condition. Consult your doctor before adding dandelion supplements on top of your normal treatment. Also, the milk sap of dandelions has been known to cause itchiness, irritation, or allergic reactions on the skin, and should be kept away from the eyes. Finally, there is a rare type of fiber in dandelions called inulin, and some people have a predisposed sensitivity or allergy to it which can be quite severe. When first adding dandelion greens to your diet in any way, start small and closely monitor your body’s response.
Can You Give Me Some Info on Woodland Poppy?
Wood Poppy is a native wildflower called the Celandine poppy (Stylophorum diphyllum sty-loh-FOR-um dy-FIL-um) or Golden woodland poppy.
While the Celandine poppy is a member of the Poppy (Papaver) family, it is not as famous as its cousin the Red poppy (Papaver rhoeas) made famous by Monet in his series of paintings titled Poppy Fields of Argenteuil or Van Gogh’s Vase with Red Poppies or the common garden poppy (Papaver somniferum) known for its beautiful flowers and opiate derivatives. This poppy is native to much of the eastern United States growing from Wisconsin east to the Atlantic coast and south to Arkansas and over to Alabama and Georgia. It is a staple in the woodland forest loving the dappled shade of the deciduous trees and rich organic soil created by decaying leaf litter. Ample moisture will insure continued growth throughout the season and help the plants to spread by seed germination.
The beautiful golden yellow flowers so prevalent in early spring are a welcome treat for gardeners and are a great complement for Virginia bluebells, Columbines, Shooting stars, Woodland phlox and Trillium. The flowers resemble a buttercup and the genus name Stylophorum is derived from the Greek word stylos in deference to the very prominent style (or pistil) that extends from the center of the flower. The species name diphyllum means ‘two leaves’ and refers to the two paired leaves present on each herbaceous plant. The leaves are very ornate in their own right with three prominent lobes of deep forest green. After flowers fade, you will notice the fruits forming as a green, hairy pod that holds hundreds of tiny seeds. As the fruits dry, the pods pop open distributing the seeds to the soil below. The next spring you will find new plants growing around the mother plant and over several years you will find your patch of poppies expanding.
Celandine poppies are very easy to grow as long as the right conditions are present – dappled shade, rich, organic soil and ample moisture. One nice thing about the Celandine poppy is that it has the ability to continue growing throughout the summer months unlike other wildflowers that go dormant once the summer heat arrives. If ample moisture is available then you can expect to have additional flowering sessions throughout the summer although blooms will never be as heavy as the spring season.
Notes: The stems contain a bright yellow sap which was used as a dye by Native Americans. Wood poppy is a native wildflower which occurs most often in moist woodlands and along streambanks.
Wood Poppy is a native wildflower called the Celandine poppy (Stylophorum diphyllum sty-loh-FOR-um dy-FIL-um) or Golden woodland poppy.
While the Celandine poppy is a member of the Poppy (Papaver) family, it is not as famous as its cousin the Red poppy (Papaver rhoeas) made famous by Monet in his series of paintings titled Poppy Fields of Argenteuil or Van Gogh’s Vase with Red Poppies or the common garden poppy (Papaver somniferum) known for its beautiful flowers and opiate derivatives. This poppy is native to much of the eastern United States growing from Wisconsin east to the Atlantic coast and south to Arkansas and over to Alabama and Georgia. It is a staple in the woodland forest loving the dappled shade of the deciduous trees and rich organic soil created by decaying leaf litter. Ample moisture will insure continued growth throughout the season and help the plants to spread by seed germination.
The beautiful golden yellow flowers so prevalent in early spring are a welcome treat for gardeners and are a great complement for Virginia bluebells, Columbines, Shooting stars, Woodland phlox and Trillium. The flowers resemble a buttercup and the genus name Stylophorum is derived from the Greek word stylos in deference to the very prominent style (or pistil) that extends from the center of the flower. The species name diphyllum means ‘two leaves’ and refers to the two paired leaves present on each herbaceous plant. The leaves are very ornate in their own right with three prominent lobes of deep forest green. After flowers fade, you will notice the fruits forming as a green, hairy pod that holds hundreds of tiny seeds. As the fruits dry, the pods pop open distributing the seeds to the soil below. The next spring you will find new plants growing around the mother plant and over several years you will find your patch of poppies expanding.
Celandine poppies are very easy to grow as long as the right conditions are present – dappled shade, rich, organic soil and ample moisture. One nice thing about the Celandine poppy is that it has the ability to continue growing throughout the summer months unlike other wildflowers that go dormant once the summer heat arrives. If ample moisture is available then you can expect to have additional flowering sessions throughout the summer although blooms will never be as heavy as the spring season.
Notes: The stems contain a bright yellow sap which was used as a dye by Native Americans. Wood poppy is a native wildflower which occurs most often in moist woodlands and along streambanks.
Need Some Info on Herbes de Provence Please.
Herbes de Provence is a mixture of dried herbs typical of Provence. In the past this was simply a descriptive term referring to herbs typical of Provence. In the 1970s, commercial blends started to be sold under this name. These mixtures typically contain marjoram, rosemary, savory, thyme, oregano and lavender buds, and other herbs, though lavender was not used in traditional southern French cooking.
Please note that when you purchase Herbes de Provence there is no guarantee that it comes from the Provence of France. The vast majority of these blends come from central and eastern Europe, North Africa, and China.
Herbes de Provence mixtures are used to flavor grilled foods such as fish and meat, as well as vegetable stews. Herbes de Provence is an awesome complement to roasted beef. The mixture can be added to foods before or during cooking or mixed with cooking oil prior to cooking so as to infuse the flavor into the cooked food. They are rarely added after cooking is complete.
Personally, it's a waste of money to buy Herbes de Provence when the mixture of herbs is so easy to grow.
You might try this recipe:
Mix these dried herbs together:
Herbes de Provence is a mixture of dried herbs typical of Provence. In the past this was simply a descriptive term referring to herbs typical of Provence. In the 1970s, commercial blends started to be sold under this name. These mixtures typically contain marjoram, rosemary, savory, thyme, oregano and lavender buds, and other herbs, though lavender was not used in traditional southern French cooking.
Please note that when you purchase Herbes de Provence there is no guarantee that it comes from the Provence of France. The vast majority of these blends come from central and eastern Europe, North Africa, and China.
Herbes de Provence mixtures are used to flavor grilled foods such as fish and meat, as well as vegetable stews. Herbes de Provence is an awesome complement to roasted beef. The mixture can be added to foods before or during cooking or mixed with cooking oil prior to cooking so as to infuse the flavor into the cooked food. They are rarely added after cooking is complete.
Personally, it's a waste of money to buy Herbes de Provence when the mixture of herbs is so easy to grow.
You might try this recipe:
Mix these dried herbs together:
- 1 Tbs basil
- 1 Tbs marjoram
- ½ Tbs rosemary
- 1 Tbs summer savory
- 1 Tbs thyme
- 1 bay leaf, crushed
- 2 or 3 lavender flowers, crushed
- (Optionally you may also use 1 tsp fennel seeds and 1 tsp
sage)
What Uses Are Out There for Hydrogen Peroxide?
By Andrea Harper
Hydrogen peroxide is the only germicidal agent composed only of water and oxygen. Like ozone, it kills disease organisms by oxidation! Hydrogen peroxide is considered the worlds safest all natural effective sanitizer. It kills microorganisms by oxidizing them, which can be best described as a controlled burning process. When Hydrogen peroxide reacts with organic material it breaks down into oxygen and water.
1. Whiten Clothes – An Alternative to Beach
Add a cup of Peroxide to white clothes in your laundry to whiten them. Peroxide is great to get rid of blood stains on clothes and carpets. If there is blood on clothing, just pour directly on the spot, let it sit for about a minute, then rub and rinse with cold water. Repeat if necessary.
2. Health
Your body makes Hydrogen peroxide to fight infection which must be present for our immune system to function correctly. White blood cells are known as Leukocytes. A sub-class of Leukocytes called Neutrophils produce hydrogen peroxide as the first line of defense against toxins, parasites, bacteria, viruses and yeast.
3. Rejuvenating Detoxifying Bath
Use about 2 quarts 3% Hydrogen peroxide to a tub of warm water. Soak at least 1/2 hour, adding hot water as needed to maintain a comfortable water temperature.
4. Foot Fungus
To cure a foot fungus, simply spray a 50/50 mixture of Hydrogen peroxide and water on them (especially the toes) every night and let dry.
5. Douche
Add 2 capfuls of 3% Hydrogen peroxide in warm distilled water once to twice a week to remove even chronic yeast infections.
6. Colonic or Enema
For a colonic, add 1 cup (8 ozs.) 3% H202 to 5 gallons warm water. (Do not exceed this amount) For an enema, add 1 tablespoon of 3% H202 to a quart of warm distilled water.
7. Infections
Soak any infections or cuts in 3% for five to ten minutes several times a day. Even gangrene that would not heal with any medicine has been healed by soaking in Hydrogen peroxide. Put half a bottle of hydrogen peroxide in your bath to help rid boils, fungus or other skin infections.
8. Bird Mites Infections
Patients infected by tiny mites report that hydrogen peroxide effectively kills the mites on their skins. They spray it on their skin a couple of times (with a few minutes in between the applications) with amazing results.
9. Sinus Infections
A tablespoon of 3% Hydrogen peroxide added to 1 cup of non-chlorinated water can be used as a nasal spray. Depending on the degree of sinus involvement, one will have to adjust the amount of peroxide used.
10. Wound Care
3% H2O2 is used medically for cleaning wounds, removing dead tissue, and as an oral debriding agent. Peroxide stops slow (small vessel) wound bleeding/oozing, as well.
Some sources recommend soaking infections or cuts for five to ten minutes several times a day. However, washing and rinsing action is sufficient. You shouldn’t leave the solution on open tissue for extended periods of time as, like many oxidative antiseptics, Hydrogen peroxide causes mild damage to tissue in open wounds. Therefore it is important to use with caution.
Personal Care Mouthwash / Tooth Care
Healing Properties: Take one capful (the little white cap that comes with the bottle) and hold in your mouth for 10 minutes daily, then spit it out. You will not have canker sores and your teeth will be whiter. If you have a terrible toothache and cannot get to a dentist right away, put a capful of 3% Hydrogen peroxide into your mouth and hold it for 10 minutes several times a day. The pain will lessen greatly.
11. Mouthwash
Many people don’t realize that hydrogen peroxide makes a very effective and inexpensive mouthwash. Use 3% H202 – add a dash of liquid chlorophyll for flavoring if desired.
12. Toothpaste
Use baking soda and add enough 3% H202 to make a paste.
13. Toothbrush
Or, just dip your brush in 3% H202 and brush. Soak your toothbrush in Hydrogen peroxide to keep them free of germs.
14. Tooth Ache
Hydrogen peroxide is not a pain killer; however, as an anti-viral, antibacterial and anti-fungal agent, it is effective at treating the pathogen that is causing the infection. The following is from my own personal experience: My dentist wanted to give me a root canal some time ago as one tooth was inflamed and, in her opinion, would die. I felt some discomfort but told her that I would give it chance to heal. I rinsed with hydrogen peroxide (several times a day) as well as coconut oil (once a day). The discomfort went away and I have had no further problems with the tooth.
15. Tooth Whitening
Having used 3% Hydrogen peroxide as a mouth wash for sometime ago, I am thrilled to note that my teeth have been beautifully and effortlessly whitened. I used to pay so much for professional whitening, those silly strips and uncomfortable trays. Live and learn.
NOTE: Do not swallow any peroxide. When the peroxide rinse is done, be sure to rinse out your mouth with water.
16. Hair Lightening
Peroxide is a bleaching agent and is used for lightened hair. Dilute 3% Hydrogen peroxide with water (50 / 50) and spray the solution on your wet hair after a shower and comb it through. You will not have the peroxide burnt blonde hair like the hair dye packages, but more natural highlights if your hair is a light brown, faddish, or dirty blonde. It also lightens gradually so it’s not a drastic change.
17. Contact Lenses
Hydrogen peroxide is used as a disinfectant in CIBA Vision’s Clear Care no rub contact lens cleaning solution, due to its ability to break down the proteins that build up on the lens from the eye’s immune response, resulting in increased comfort for those with sensitive eyes.
Sanitizing / Disinfectant / Cleaning
18. Straight or Diluted Hydrogen Peroxide
Clean your counters and table tops with hydrogen peroxide to kill germs and leave a fresh smell. Simply put a little on your dishrag when you wipe, or spray it on the counters. Use hydrogen peroxide to clean glass and mirrors with no smearing.
Keep a spray bottle of 3% (straight) to disinfect the interior of the refrigerator and kids’ school lunch boxes.
19. In the Dishwasher
Add 2 oz. of 3% Hydrogen peroxide to your regular washing formula.
Fill a spray bottle with a 50/50 mixture of 3% Hydrogen peroxide and water and keep it in every bathroom to disinfect without harming your septic system like bleach or most other disinfectants will. After rinsing off your wooden cutting board, pour or spray hydrogen peroxide (and then vinegar) on it to kill salmonella and other bacteria.
I use peroxide to clean my mirrors with, there is no smearing.
Combination of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide make a cheap, effective and non-toxic disinfectant agent and is said to be more effective at killing pathogens than bleach. As it is non-toxic, you can use it to disinfect fruits and vegetables, as well as pet toys, equipment and cages. In tests run at Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, pairing Vinegar and Hydrogen Peroxide mists, kills virtually all Salmonella, Shigella, or E. coli bacteria on heavily contaminated food and surfaces.
Directions
You need TWO spray bottles. DO NOT MIX the solutions together. Put straight vinegar in one and straight Hydrogen peroxide in the other spray bottle.
NOTE: Light destroys peroxide rather quickly. It’s best to leave it in its original bottle and screw in a spray head. DO NOT DILUTE THEM.
Remember for any sanitizer to work properly, the surface has to be clean before you use it.
When you want to sanitize a surface (vegetables, cutting board, counters, sink, cages, toys. toilets, floors, etc.), spray one (it doesn’t matter which one you use first) on the surface, then you spray on the other. When they mix, for a brief time the chemical action of the two make a very powerful sanitizer. You can rinse off the surface afterwards, if you want, but the result is non-toxic.
Fortunately it is cheap. BTW, we use it in the bathroom to sanitize the counters, toilets, floors, etc.
20. Mold
Clean with Hydrogen peroxide when your house becomes a biohazard after its invaded by toxic mold, such as those with water damage.
21. Humidifiers/Steamers
Use 1 pint 3% Hydrogen peroxide to 1 gallon of water.
22. Laundry / Stain Removing
Stain Remover
3% Hydrogen peroxide is the best stain lifter if used fairly soon – although blood stains as old as 2 days have been successfully lifted with Hydrogen Peroxide. Although it will bleach or discolor many fabrics. If a little peroxide is poured onto the stain it will bubble up in the area of the blood, due to a reaction with catalase. After a few minutes the excess liquid can be wiped up with a cloth or paper towel and the stain will be gone.
3% H2O2 must be applied to clothing before blood stains can be accidentally “set” with heated water. Cold water and soap are then used to remove the peroxide treated blood.
23. Washing/Laundry
You can also add a cup of hydrogen peroxide instead of bleach to a load of whites in your laundry to whiten them. If there is blood on clothing, pour directly on the soiled spot. Let it sit for a minute, then rub it and rinse with cold water. Repeat if necessary.
Peroxide is a perfect alternate solution to keep those clothes white. Also, when chlorinating clothes, they tend to wear out faster – peroxide won’t do that.
Food Preparation
24. Vegetable Soak
Use as a vegetable wash or soak to kill bacteria and neutralize chemicals. Add 1/4 cup 3% H202 to a full sink of cold water. Soak light skinned (light lettuce) 20 minutes, thicker skinned (like cucumbers) 30 minutes. Drain, dry and refrigerate. Prolongs freshness.
If time is a problem, spray vegetables (and fruits) with a solution of 3%. Let stand for a few minutes, rinse and dry.
25. Meat Sanitizing
You can also use it to rinse off your meat before cooking.
26. Leftover tossed salad
Spray with a solution of 1/2 cup water and 1 Tbsp. 5%. Drain, cover and refrigerate.
27. Marinade
Place meat, fish or poultry in a casserole (avoid using aluminum pans). Cover with a dilute solution of equal parts of water and 3% H202. Place loosely covered in refrigerator for 1/2 hour. Rinse and cook.
28. Sprouting Seeds
Add 1 ounce 3% Hydrogen peroxide to 1 pint of water and soak the seeds overnight. Add the same amount of hydrogen peroxide each time you rinse the seeds.
Grades of Hydrogen Peroxide A) 3.5% Pharmaceutical Grade: This is the grade sold at your local drugstore or supermarket. This product is not recommended for internal use. It contains an assortment of stabilizers which shouldn’t be ingested. Various stabilizers include: acetanilide, phenol, sodium stanate and tertrasodium phosphate.
B) 6% Beautician Grade: This is used in beauty shops to color hair and is not recommended for internal use.
C) 30% Reagent Grade: This is used for various scientific experimentation and also contains stabilizers. It is also not for internal use.
D) 30% to 32% Electronic Grade: This is used to clean electronic parts and not for internal use.
E) 35% Technical Grade: This is a more concentrated product than the Reagent Grade and differs slightly in that phosphorus is added to help neutralize any chlorine from the water used to dilute it.
F) 35% Food Grade: This is used in the production of foods like cheese, eggs, and whey-containing products. It is also sprayed on the foil lining of aseptic packages containing fruit juices and milk products. THIS IS THE ONLY GRADE RECOMMENDED FOR INTERNAL USE.
G) 90%: This is used as an oxygen source for rocket fuel.
Only 35% Food Grade hydrogen peroxide is recommended for internal use. At this concentration, however, hydrogen peroxide is a very strong oxidizer and if not diluted, it can be extremely dangerous or even fatal. Any concentrations over 10% can cause neurological reactions and damage to the upper gastrointestinal tract. There have been two known fatalities in children who ingested 27% and 40% concentrations of H202. Another reports tells of a 26 month old female who swallowed one mouthful of 35% H202. She immediately began vomiting, followed by fainting and respiratory arrest. Fortunately, she was under emergency room care and although she experienced erosion and bleeding of the stomach and esophagus, she survived the incident. When she was re-examined 12 days later, the areas involved had healed (J Toxicol Clin Toxicol 90;28(1):95-100).
Personal note: As with ANY food, drug, or supplement, using the product according to instructions is key to safety. If someone uses too much, then of course ramifications may be felt. We’ve NEVER heard of ANY harmful side effects from the correct usage of Food Grade hydrogen peroxide.
35% Food Grade H202 must be….
1. handled carefully (direct contact will burn the skin- immediate flushing with water is recommended).
2. diluted properly before use.
3. stored safely and properly (after making a dilution the remainder should be stored tightly sealed in the freezer).
One of the most convenient methods of dispensing 35% H202 is from a small glass eye dropper bottle. These can be purchased at your local drugstore. Fill this with the 35% H202 and store the larger container in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator until more is needed. Store the eye dropper bottle in the refrigerator. The drops are mixed with either 6 to 8 ounces of distilled water, juice, aloe vera juice or gel.
(Don’t use chlorinated tap water to dilute the peroxide!)
What's the History of Canned Food
by Nick Howes, Yahoo Contributor
We owe our ability to get lunch from a can to the rise of Napoleon. We call it canned food. It's a common kitchen shelf presence: food in a tin can. Actually, that particular term is derived from the description "tinned canister" common in the early 1800's when canned foods were developed. What we think of as a tin can is actually tinplate, made of tin-plated steel. Other metals can be used as with aluminum in canned soda or beer. During the Napoleonic Wars, the French Army found itself in need of a way of transporting food. It was, after all, Napoleon who recognized the need to care for this most basic of a soldier's needs when he famously observed "an army marches on its stomach."
In 1795, Europe was embroiled in war. Soldiers needed to be fed, sailors were developing scurvy at sea. A prize was offered for a solution, a prize claimed by Nicolas Appert in 1809 who received 12,000 francs.
Discovery
Using crude means with glass jars and corks, Appert discovered he could heat-sterilize the food in the container and seal the container hermetically. The result was preserved, edible food. The principle remains at the basis of canning today.
Tin Cans
Further research showed that tin cans were preferable alternative to the glass jars and bottles Appert began with and began manufacturing them himself. That aspect of the process was less successful, not to take away the credit he's due for discovering the benefits of the canning process.
Actually, it was an Englishman, Peter Durand, who took the next step. Durand patented a tin plate canister in 1810. The result looked much like the can on the shelf at today's local Kroger store, except that Durand's were handmade.
With shears and tinsnips, a tinsmith cut an oblong piece from a sheet of tinned iron sheeting, curved the piece around on itself and soldered the edges together. He then cut out a round piece and soldered it to the bottom of the resulting canister. Another round piece was soldered on top once the can was filled with its edible contents. A small hole was left in the top piece so the can be boiled without exploding due to the expanding contents. With the can still hot, the hole was soldered closed.
The use of tin solder could be harmful. In 1845, the Arctic expedition of Sir John Franklin after three years of eating canned food has crew members suffering from the effects of severe lead poisoning.
Military veterans who remember canned C-rations with the ham and beans or spaghetti, sometimes heated in a trash barrel full of boiling water, sometimes unpalatably cold, can trace their canned meals directly to the British Army. It was in 1813, the first commercial canning factory opened in England, under license from Appert, manufacturing canned food under contract for the army.
English-born William Underwood established a successful New England canning business, starting with bottles and in 1839 switching to tin cans. One of his tinkers could turn out 60 tin cans a day.
That changed in 1846 when a machine was invented by Henry Evans that could turn out ten times Underwood's output, 60 cans an hour.
In 1858, with the metal in tin cans thinning down, the first can opener appeared. It would come into common use during the approaching American Civil War.
Canned Food in the Civil War
In 1861, Fort Sumter was bombarded. Troops were recruited, and they needed feeding. They needed canned foods.
Demand provided the tune for an intricate dance of technological innovations that gradually transformed the industry in a 50-60 year period starting with the Civil War.
In 1861, a Baltimore canner, adapting an English discovery, found that the addition of calcium chloride to the boiling water raised the temperature to above 240 degrees drastically reducing the sterilization process from five or six hours to a half hour.
At the beginning of the Civil War, about 5 million cans were being turned out. By 1870, that figure was up to 30 million.
Civil war soldiers were eating from tin cans, sailors on Naval ships ate from tin cans, hospital patients ate meals featuring fresh foods from cans, small town and rural Americans began seeing canned vegetables normally unavailable to them on their shelves.
Improvements Continue
There were refinements in canning machinery that further simplified the production process, such as capping seals, a furnace that allowed sealing of cans much faster than a tinsmith.
Product improvement was also ongoing. In 1866, a tin can was patented which had a key attached to it, such as you still find with sardine cans. Sanitary cans were introduced in 1896, produced by chemist Charles M. Ams, which permitted an open-top can, easier to fill than the hole-in-top can it replaced.
After 10 years of attempts, Borden began to develop a market for its canned condensed milk. Corn, peas, and tomatoes began finding their way into cans, as did pineapples, salmon, apples, pears, and other edibles.
All benefited from production improvements in their own fields which dovetailed nicely with the increasing availability to producers of constantly improving canning techniques. The result was that canned food reached people in greater and greater amounts, creating a huge new market.
By shortly after the turn of the century, as portrayed in the movie Big Jake, John Wayne is offering to share canned peaches with Richard Boone who declines, saying they hurt his teeth.
But it wasn't just peaches and other fruit and vegetables that found their way into cans. In 1935, the first canned beer appeared and that soon became a major force in the market. In 1959, another refinement appeared, aimed primarily at beverages: the pop-top can.
All of which traces back to Napoleon's need to keep his Army fed as it swarmed over Europe.
By Andrea Harper
Hydrogen peroxide is the only germicidal agent composed only of water and oxygen. Like ozone, it kills disease organisms by oxidation! Hydrogen peroxide is considered the worlds safest all natural effective sanitizer. It kills microorganisms by oxidizing them, which can be best described as a controlled burning process. When Hydrogen peroxide reacts with organic material it breaks down into oxygen and water.
1. Whiten Clothes – An Alternative to Beach
Add a cup of Peroxide to white clothes in your laundry to whiten them. Peroxide is great to get rid of blood stains on clothes and carpets. If there is blood on clothing, just pour directly on the spot, let it sit for about a minute, then rub and rinse with cold water. Repeat if necessary.
2. Health
Your body makes Hydrogen peroxide to fight infection which must be present for our immune system to function correctly. White blood cells are known as Leukocytes. A sub-class of Leukocytes called Neutrophils produce hydrogen peroxide as the first line of defense against toxins, parasites, bacteria, viruses and yeast.
3. Rejuvenating Detoxifying Bath
Use about 2 quarts 3% Hydrogen peroxide to a tub of warm water. Soak at least 1/2 hour, adding hot water as needed to maintain a comfortable water temperature.
4. Foot Fungus
To cure a foot fungus, simply spray a 50/50 mixture of Hydrogen peroxide and water on them (especially the toes) every night and let dry.
5. Douche
Add 2 capfuls of 3% Hydrogen peroxide in warm distilled water once to twice a week to remove even chronic yeast infections.
6. Colonic or Enema
For a colonic, add 1 cup (8 ozs.) 3% H202 to 5 gallons warm water. (Do not exceed this amount) For an enema, add 1 tablespoon of 3% H202 to a quart of warm distilled water.
7. Infections
Soak any infections or cuts in 3% for five to ten minutes several times a day. Even gangrene that would not heal with any medicine has been healed by soaking in Hydrogen peroxide. Put half a bottle of hydrogen peroxide in your bath to help rid boils, fungus or other skin infections.
8. Bird Mites Infections
Patients infected by tiny mites report that hydrogen peroxide effectively kills the mites on their skins. They spray it on their skin a couple of times (with a few minutes in between the applications) with amazing results.
9. Sinus Infections
A tablespoon of 3% Hydrogen peroxide added to 1 cup of non-chlorinated water can be used as a nasal spray. Depending on the degree of sinus involvement, one will have to adjust the amount of peroxide used.
10. Wound Care
3% H2O2 is used medically for cleaning wounds, removing dead tissue, and as an oral debriding agent. Peroxide stops slow (small vessel) wound bleeding/oozing, as well.
Some sources recommend soaking infections or cuts for five to ten minutes several times a day. However, washing and rinsing action is sufficient. You shouldn’t leave the solution on open tissue for extended periods of time as, like many oxidative antiseptics, Hydrogen peroxide causes mild damage to tissue in open wounds. Therefore it is important to use with caution.
Personal Care Mouthwash / Tooth Care
Healing Properties: Take one capful (the little white cap that comes with the bottle) and hold in your mouth for 10 minutes daily, then spit it out. You will not have canker sores and your teeth will be whiter. If you have a terrible toothache and cannot get to a dentist right away, put a capful of 3% Hydrogen peroxide into your mouth and hold it for 10 minutes several times a day. The pain will lessen greatly.
11. Mouthwash
Many people don’t realize that hydrogen peroxide makes a very effective and inexpensive mouthwash. Use 3% H202 – add a dash of liquid chlorophyll for flavoring if desired.
12. Toothpaste
Use baking soda and add enough 3% H202 to make a paste.
13. Toothbrush
Or, just dip your brush in 3% H202 and brush. Soak your toothbrush in Hydrogen peroxide to keep them free of germs.
14. Tooth Ache
Hydrogen peroxide is not a pain killer; however, as an anti-viral, antibacterial and anti-fungal agent, it is effective at treating the pathogen that is causing the infection. The following is from my own personal experience: My dentist wanted to give me a root canal some time ago as one tooth was inflamed and, in her opinion, would die. I felt some discomfort but told her that I would give it chance to heal. I rinsed with hydrogen peroxide (several times a day) as well as coconut oil (once a day). The discomfort went away and I have had no further problems with the tooth.
15. Tooth Whitening
Having used 3% Hydrogen peroxide as a mouth wash for sometime ago, I am thrilled to note that my teeth have been beautifully and effortlessly whitened. I used to pay so much for professional whitening, those silly strips and uncomfortable trays. Live and learn.
NOTE: Do not swallow any peroxide. When the peroxide rinse is done, be sure to rinse out your mouth with water.
16. Hair Lightening
Peroxide is a bleaching agent and is used for lightened hair. Dilute 3% Hydrogen peroxide with water (50 / 50) and spray the solution on your wet hair after a shower and comb it through. You will not have the peroxide burnt blonde hair like the hair dye packages, but more natural highlights if your hair is a light brown, faddish, or dirty blonde. It also lightens gradually so it’s not a drastic change.
17. Contact Lenses
Hydrogen peroxide is used as a disinfectant in CIBA Vision’s Clear Care no rub contact lens cleaning solution, due to its ability to break down the proteins that build up on the lens from the eye’s immune response, resulting in increased comfort for those with sensitive eyes.
Sanitizing / Disinfectant / Cleaning
18. Straight or Diluted Hydrogen Peroxide
Clean your counters and table tops with hydrogen peroxide to kill germs and leave a fresh smell. Simply put a little on your dishrag when you wipe, or spray it on the counters. Use hydrogen peroxide to clean glass and mirrors with no smearing.
Keep a spray bottle of 3% (straight) to disinfect the interior of the refrigerator and kids’ school lunch boxes.
19. In the Dishwasher
Add 2 oz. of 3% Hydrogen peroxide to your regular washing formula.
Fill a spray bottle with a 50/50 mixture of 3% Hydrogen peroxide and water and keep it in every bathroom to disinfect without harming your septic system like bleach or most other disinfectants will. After rinsing off your wooden cutting board, pour or spray hydrogen peroxide (and then vinegar) on it to kill salmonella and other bacteria.
I use peroxide to clean my mirrors with, there is no smearing.
Combination of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide make a cheap, effective and non-toxic disinfectant agent and is said to be more effective at killing pathogens than bleach. As it is non-toxic, you can use it to disinfect fruits and vegetables, as well as pet toys, equipment and cages. In tests run at Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, pairing Vinegar and Hydrogen Peroxide mists, kills virtually all Salmonella, Shigella, or E. coli bacteria on heavily contaminated food and surfaces.
Directions
You need TWO spray bottles. DO NOT MIX the solutions together. Put straight vinegar in one and straight Hydrogen peroxide in the other spray bottle.
NOTE: Light destroys peroxide rather quickly. It’s best to leave it in its original bottle and screw in a spray head. DO NOT DILUTE THEM.
Remember for any sanitizer to work properly, the surface has to be clean before you use it.
When you want to sanitize a surface (vegetables, cutting board, counters, sink, cages, toys. toilets, floors, etc.), spray one (it doesn’t matter which one you use first) on the surface, then you spray on the other. When they mix, for a brief time the chemical action of the two make a very powerful sanitizer. You can rinse off the surface afterwards, if you want, but the result is non-toxic.
Fortunately it is cheap. BTW, we use it in the bathroom to sanitize the counters, toilets, floors, etc.
20. Mold
Clean with Hydrogen peroxide when your house becomes a biohazard after its invaded by toxic mold, such as those with water damage.
21. Humidifiers/Steamers
Use 1 pint 3% Hydrogen peroxide to 1 gallon of water.
22. Laundry / Stain Removing
Stain Remover
3% Hydrogen peroxide is the best stain lifter if used fairly soon – although blood stains as old as 2 days have been successfully lifted with Hydrogen Peroxide. Although it will bleach or discolor many fabrics. If a little peroxide is poured onto the stain it will bubble up in the area of the blood, due to a reaction with catalase. After a few minutes the excess liquid can be wiped up with a cloth or paper towel and the stain will be gone.
3% H2O2 must be applied to clothing before blood stains can be accidentally “set” with heated water. Cold water and soap are then used to remove the peroxide treated blood.
23. Washing/Laundry
You can also add a cup of hydrogen peroxide instead of bleach to a load of whites in your laundry to whiten them. If there is blood on clothing, pour directly on the soiled spot. Let it sit for a minute, then rub it and rinse with cold water. Repeat if necessary.
Peroxide is a perfect alternate solution to keep those clothes white. Also, when chlorinating clothes, they tend to wear out faster – peroxide won’t do that.
Food Preparation
24. Vegetable Soak
Use as a vegetable wash or soak to kill bacteria and neutralize chemicals. Add 1/4 cup 3% H202 to a full sink of cold water. Soak light skinned (light lettuce) 20 minutes, thicker skinned (like cucumbers) 30 minutes. Drain, dry and refrigerate. Prolongs freshness.
If time is a problem, spray vegetables (and fruits) with a solution of 3%. Let stand for a few minutes, rinse and dry.
25. Meat Sanitizing
You can also use it to rinse off your meat before cooking.
26. Leftover tossed salad
Spray with a solution of 1/2 cup water and 1 Tbsp. 5%. Drain, cover and refrigerate.
27. Marinade
Place meat, fish or poultry in a casserole (avoid using aluminum pans). Cover with a dilute solution of equal parts of water and 3% H202. Place loosely covered in refrigerator for 1/2 hour. Rinse and cook.
28. Sprouting Seeds
Add 1 ounce 3% Hydrogen peroxide to 1 pint of water and soak the seeds overnight. Add the same amount of hydrogen peroxide each time you rinse the seeds.
Grades of Hydrogen Peroxide A) 3.5% Pharmaceutical Grade: This is the grade sold at your local drugstore or supermarket. This product is not recommended for internal use. It contains an assortment of stabilizers which shouldn’t be ingested. Various stabilizers include: acetanilide, phenol, sodium stanate and tertrasodium phosphate.
B) 6% Beautician Grade: This is used in beauty shops to color hair and is not recommended for internal use.
C) 30% Reagent Grade: This is used for various scientific experimentation and also contains stabilizers. It is also not for internal use.
D) 30% to 32% Electronic Grade: This is used to clean electronic parts and not for internal use.
E) 35% Technical Grade: This is a more concentrated product than the Reagent Grade and differs slightly in that phosphorus is added to help neutralize any chlorine from the water used to dilute it.
F) 35% Food Grade: This is used in the production of foods like cheese, eggs, and whey-containing products. It is also sprayed on the foil lining of aseptic packages containing fruit juices and milk products. THIS IS THE ONLY GRADE RECOMMENDED FOR INTERNAL USE.
G) 90%: This is used as an oxygen source for rocket fuel.
Only 35% Food Grade hydrogen peroxide is recommended for internal use. At this concentration, however, hydrogen peroxide is a very strong oxidizer and if not diluted, it can be extremely dangerous or even fatal. Any concentrations over 10% can cause neurological reactions and damage to the upper gastrointestinal tract. There have been two known fatalities in children who ingested 27% and 40% concentrations of H202. Another reports tells of a 26 month old female who swallowed one mouthful of 35% H202. She immediately began vomiting, followed by fainting and respiratory arrest. Fortunately, she was under emergency room care and although she experienced erosion and bleeding of the stomach and esophagus, she survived the incident. When she was re-examined 12 days later, the areas involved had healed (J Toxicol Clin Toxicol 90;28(1):95-100).
Personal note: As with ANY food, drug, or supplement, using the product according to instructions is key to safety. If someone uses too much, then of course ramifications may be felt. We’ve NEVER heard of ANY harmful side effects from the correct usage of Food Grade hydrogen peroxide.
35% Food Grade H202 must be….
1. handled carefully (direct contact will burn the skin- immediate flushing with water is recommended).
2. diluted properly before use.
3. stored safely and properly (after making a dilution the remainder should be stored tightly sealed in the freezer).
One of the most convenient methods of dispensing 35% H202 is from a small glass eye dropper bottle. These can be purchased at your local drugstore. Fill this with the 35% H202 and store the larger container in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator until more is needed. Store the eye dropper bottle in the refrigerator. The drops are mixed with either 6 to 8 ounces of distilled water, juice, aloe vera juice or gel.
(Don’t use chlorinated tap water to dilute the peroxide!)
What's the History of Canned Food
by Nick Howes, Yahoo Contributor
We owe our ability to get lunch from a can to the rise of Napoleon. We call it canned food. It's a common kitchen shelf presence: food in a tin can. Actually, that particular term is derived from the description "tinned canister" common in the early 1800's when canned foods were developed. What we think of as a tin can is actually tinplate, made of tin-plated steel. Other metals can be used as with aluminum in canned soda or beer. During the Napoleonic Wars, the French Army found itself in need of a way of transporting food. It was, after all, Napoleon who recognized the need to care for this most basic of a soldier's needs when he famously observed "an army marches on its stomach."
In 1795, Europe was embroiled in war. Soldiers needed to be fed, sailors were developing scurvy at sea. A prize was offered for a solution, a prize claimed by Nicolas Appert in 1809 who received 12,000 francs.
Discovery
Using crude means with glass jars and corks, Appert discovered he could heat-sterilize the food in the container and seal the container hermetically. The result was preserved, edible food. The principle remains at the basis of canning today.
Tin Cans
Further research showed that tin cans were preferable alternative to the glass jars and bottles Appert began with and began manufacturing them himself. That aspect of the process was less successful, not to take away the credit he's due for discovering the benefits of the canning process.
Actually, it was an Englishman, Peter Durand, who took the next step. Durand patented a tin plate canister in 1810. The result looked much like the can on the shelf at today's local Kroger store, except that Durand's were handmade.
With shears and tinsnips, a tinsmith cut an oblong piece from a sheet of tinned iron sheeting, curved the piece around on itself and soldered the edges together. He then cut out a round piece and soldered it to the bottom of the resulting canister. Another round piece was soldered on top once the can was filled with its edible contents. A small hole was left in the top piece so the can be boiled without exploding due to the expanding contents. With the can still hot, the hole was soldered closed.
The use of tin solder could be harmful. In 1845, the Arctic expedition of Sir John Franklin after three years of eating canned food has crew members suffering from the effects of severe lead poisoning.
Military veterans who remember canned C-rations with the ham and beans or spaghetti, sometimes heated in a trash barrel full of boiling water, sometimes unpalatably cold, can trace their canned meals directly to the British Army. It was in 1813, the first commercial canning factory opened in England, under license from Appert, manufacturing canned food under contract for the army.
English-born William Underwood established a successful New England canning business, starting with bottles and in 1839 switching to tin cans. One of his tinkers could turn out 60 tin cans a day.
That changed in 1846 when a machine was invented by Henry Evans that could turn out ten times Underwood's output, 60 cans an hour.
In 1858, with the metal in tin cans thinning down, the first can opener appeared. It would come into common use during the approaching American Civil War.
Canned Food in the Civil War
In 1861, Fort Sumter was bombarded. Troops were recruited, and they needed feeding. They needed canned foods.
Demand provided the tune for an intricate dance of technological innovations that gradually transformed the industry in a 50-60 year period starting with the Civil War.
In 1861, a Baltimore canner, adapting an English discovery, found that the addition of calcium chloride to the boiling water raised the temperature to above 240 degrees drastically reducing the sterilization process from five or six hours to a half hour.
At the beginning of the Civil War, about 5 million cans were being turned out. By 1870, that figure was up to 30 million.
Civil war soldiers were eating from tin cans, sailors on Naval ships ate from tin cans, hospital patients ate meals featuring fresh foods from cans, small town and rural Americans began seeing canned vegetables normally unavailable to them on their shelves.
Improvements Continue
There were refinements in canning machinery that further simplified the production process, such as capping seals, a furnace that allowed sealing of cans much faster than a tinsmith.
Product improvement was also ongoing. In 1866, a tin can was patented which had a key attached to it, such as you still find with sardine cans. Sanitary cans were introduced in 1896, produced by chemist Charles M. Ams, which permitted an open-top can, easier to fill than the hole-in-top can it replaced.
After 10 years of attempts, Borden began to develop a market for its canned condensed milk. Corn, peas, and tomatoes began finding their way into cans, as did pineapples, salmon, apples, pears, and other edibles.
All benefited from production improvements in their own fields which dovetailed nicely with the increasing availability to producers of constantly improving canning techniques. The result was that canned food reached people in greater and greater amounts, creating a huge new market.
By shortly after the turn of the century, as portrayed in the movie Big Jake, John Wayne is offering to share canned peaches with Richard Boone who declines, saying they hurt his teeth.
But it wasn't just peaches and other fruit and vegetables that found their way into cans. In 1935, the first canned beer appeared and that soon became a major force in the market. In 1959, another refinement appeared, aimed primarily at beverages: the pop-top can.
All of which traces back to Napoleon's need to keep his Army fed as it swarmed over Europe.
What Can You Tell Me About Cinnamon?
I was all over the internet looking for information on cinnamon. I had no idea it was as healthy an ingredient as I've found. Please see below:
I was all over the internet looking for information on cinnamon. I had no idea it was as healthy an ingredient as I've found. Please see below:
- Blood Sugar Control – Several studies have found that Cinnamon has properties that help those with insulin resistance. It is therefore very popular with Type 2 diabetics who take it to control their blood sugar variations.
Ceylon Cinnamon is particularly popular because it has low levels of Coumarin. compared to Cassia Cinnamon found in your grocery store. In case you did not know Coumarin in high doses can cause liver damage.
in another study Ceylon Cinnamon was found to have an effect on blood sugar control in a rat model. If you are taking Ceylon Cinnamon for diabetes, take it in moderation as part of a healthy program of diet, proper nutrition and moderate exercise.
- Candida Yeast Infections - Cinnamon has shown an amazing ability to stop medication-resistant yeast infections. This applies to Escherichia coli bacteria and Candida albicans fungus. This study discovered that Cinnamon Oil was one of three leading essential oils effective against Candida. Another study was found Cinnamon Oil to be effective against two strains of Candida, C. orthopedics and C. parapsilosis. A third study found that Cinnamon Oil was effective against three strains of Candida, Candida albicans, Candida tropicalis, and Candida krusei. Real Ceylon Cinnamon Tea infused with Cinnamon Bark Oil could be an excellent way to fight internal Candida infections and boost your immune system. For topical applications (except genital areas and mucous membranes) 1% Ceylon Cinnamon Leaf Oil mixed with a carrier oil could be an extremely effective treatment option.
- Stomach Bug/Flu - By far and away the best remedy for a horrible stomach bug is Cinnamon. It make sense because Cinnamon is a powerful anti-bacterial. Research has shown Cinnamon is one of the most effective substances against (click the links for the research) Escherichia coli, Salmonella., Campylobacter . Another study found Cinnamaldehyde from Cinnamon Bark Oil in its various forms is effective against adenovirus. Another reason to have our Cinnamon tea which is infused with Cinnamon Bark Oil that has high levels of Cinnamaldehyde (over 75%).
- Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS) – As a digestive cinnamon dramatically reduces the uncomfortable feelings associated with IBS especially the bloating. It does this by killing bacteria and healing infections in the GI tract and enabling the gastric juices to work normally. A Japanese study apparently showed it to cure ulcers but this cannot be verified. But if you do have stomach cramps or upsets, a cup of Cinnamon tea 2-3 times per day will dramatically reduce the pain.
- Cancer Preventer – Research shows that Cinnamon oil is a promising solution in the treatment of Tumors, Gastric Cancers and Melanomas. Research studies show that sugar maybe causing or sustaining cancer cells and cinnamon may have a mitigating effect by controlling blood sugar levels in the body. Another study found good results with leukemia and lymphoma cancer cells. Cinnamon in its various forms has two chemical constituents called Cinnamaldehyde and Eugenol (From Cinnamon Oil). These have been used to develop nutraceuticals in this study that have proven fairly effective in fighting Human Colon Cancer Cells (Eugenol) and Human hepatoma cells (Cinnamaldehyde). So the evidence seems to suggest that Cinnamon is starving cancer cells of the sugar needed to sustain them.
- Arthritis/Osteoporosis – The widely cited Copenhagen university study is a hoax. Most of the evidence that Cinnamon helps arthritis is from personal testimonials. Some people claim drinking Cinnamon tea helps the pain from arthritis while others claim a Cinnamon Oil based massage oil helps ease the pain.
What we do know is that Cinnamon has high levels (73% DV in two sticks of Cinnamon) of Manganese which is used to build bones, blood and other connective tissues, according to the University of Maryland Medical Center. The body needs manganese for optimal bone health, so people who are deficient in the mineral are more likely to develop osteoporosis. Of course another factor causing Osteoporosis may be excessive dairy consumption.
A study in 2008 listed in this pdf found that Alderhyde components of Ceylon Cinnamon bark extract suppresses RANKL-induced osteoclastogenesis through NFATc1 down regulation.
- Anti-Bacterial/Anti Microbial - Ceylon Cinnamon Leaf Oil is a powerful anti-bacterial and makes a great natural disinfectant. Cinnamon oil had the best anti microbial activity among three oils against Escherichia coli , Staphylococcus aureus , Aspergillus oryzae , and Penicillium digitatum according to this abstract..
Dilute it with water to disinfect kitchen counter tops, sinks, your refrigerator, door knobs, toys and many other things. If you have young children and don't want to use harsh cancer causing chemicals use Cinnamon Oil. Cinnamon sticks are also a good anti bacterial but you would need a lot of it to make a difference. If you want a mild disinfect, like to wash your face, then a couple of Cinnamon sticks boiled in hot water might be an idea.
- Food Preservative – Cinnamon is effective in inhibiting bacterial growth. This maybe one reason why it is widely used in food preparation in hot Asian countries. In Sri Lanka, virtually every dish has a pinch of Cinnamon in it. In addition to great flavor, Ceylon Cinnamon in combination with other spices like Turmeric and Chili may have been an indigenous solution to preserve food without a refrigerator. This study for using Cinnamon Oil coated paper as a preservative found a 6% Cinnamon Oil solution was responsible for complete inhibition of mold in sliced bread packaging. This study listed on Feb 2013 also found cinnamon oil effective in developing insect resistant food packaging film. Cinnamon also came on top in this study, even against All spice and Clove Oil as very effective for making edible food film.
- Odor Neutralizer – Pure Cinnamon Leaf oil not only smells great but is an effective odor neutralizer as it kills bacteria that creates the odor. All you need is 2-5 drops of Cinnamon leaf oil mixed with water on a diffuser and within minutes all odors are neutralized. It also has the effect of improving your mood. Especially great as a cure for the winter blues.
- Alertness, Memory & Cognitive Development – According to this study by Dr. Bryan Raudenbush, Director of Undergraduate Research and associate professor of psychology at Wheeling Jesuit University in Wheeling, WV. Cinnamon may keep you more alert and decrease your frustration when you are behind the wheel.
This hard to verify German study cited in this article those taking Cinnamon improved their response times and memory recall. While not scientific, our personal experience suggests pretty good results in alertness and concentration.
- Anti-oxidant – With an ORAC value of 267536 μmol TE/100g (USDA 2007) cinnamon is one of the top seven anti-oxidants in the world. The suggestion is that Anti-oxidants reduce the formation of " Free Radicals " that cause cancer. This study found Cinnamon has sufficient anti-oxidant properties and makes for improved food palatability. This detailed Indian study (pdf) also found potential antimicrobial and antioxidant properties of the volatile oils and oleoresins of cinnamon leaf and bark. But consider anti-oxidants as good for your whole body, repairing damage to virtually all parts of your body from skin to organs.
- Weight Reducer – Cinnamon apparently has the effect of thinning your blood thereby increasing blood circulation. Increased blood flow generally boosts your metabolism which is why it may be helpful in weight loss. This blood thinning property of Cinnamon also helps it in acting as an anti clotting agent especially for those suffering from heart disease. However care must be taken to NOT to take it with other blood thinning medication. The main ingredient that causes your blood to thin is Coumarin which is present in high doses in Cassia Cinnamon (4%) but not in Ceylon Cinnamon (0.04%). However Coumarin causes liver damage. So taking Cassia Cinnamon for weight loss may end up causing liver damage.
Since Cinnamon increases insulin's capacity to metabolize sugar - cinnamon may help reduce hunger pains and sugar cravings, which could help reduce weight. Especially those who have diabetes and find it hard to lose weight. This article cites Dr. Greenburg of Tufts University as saying it holds promising possibilities for weight loss.
- Massage Therapy – Cinnamon is a well known warming agent. Combined with a carrier oil it is highly effective in relaxing and relieving muscle pain. Some put a few drops in their bath to relax and to sooth tired and aching muscles.
- Anti-Fungal – Got a bad case of athletes foot? It's powerful anti fungal properties are the perfect natural alternative to killing the athletes foot fungus.
- Lowering LDL cholesterol & triglycerides – According to a Mayo clinic article the only possible way Cinnamon could lower cholesterol is indirectly via how the body processes sugar and fat. But there is no direct effect on cholesterol. Still another study in Pakistan found Cinnamon reduced triglyceride (23-30%), LDL cholesterol (7-27%), and total cholesterol (12-26%).
- E-coli Fighter – One of the most effective E-coli fighters because of its anti microbial properties. Mix cinnamon oil with hydrogen peroxide and spray your cutting board and kitchen sink especially after you have cut meats. Spray it in your refrigerator. It’s safe and natural.
- Tooth Decay and Gum Disease – Again the anti-bacterial properties of Cinnamon play a crucial role in getting rid of harmful bacteria without damaging your teeth or gums. It’s one of the reasons that Cinnamon Oil is often used in chewing gums, mouthwashes, toothpaste and breath mints.
- Nutrients – One teaspoon of Cinnamon Powder (a realistic dose) has 0.33mg (16% DV) Manganese, 0.76 mg (4% DV) Iron, 24.56 mg (2% DV) Calcium. This data was calculated from this site. We have also presented USDA figures with RDA % (see chart below) which we think is more accurate, although we cannot confirm the Manganese levels in Cinnamon from any reliable source. Manganese apparently works as an enzyme activator and plays an important role in building good structure and bone metabolism. According to WebMD manganese is therefore useful for weak bones (osteoporosis), a type of “tired blood” (anemia), and symptoms of premenstrual syndrome (PMS).
- Insect Repellant – The anti microbial qualities of Cinnamon Leaf oil is often used for head lice treatment, black ant control, bed bugs, dust mites, and roaches. It is well known as a defense against mosquitoes'. This WebMD article sites a Taiwanese study which found that it not only kills Mosquito larvae but also acts as a bug repellant. This paper suggests that real Cinnamon Oil as opposed to Cinnamon extract is the best for a broad range anti microbial activity.
- Cold, Sore Throat and Cough – At the first sign (within 5-10 minutes) of sniffles or an itch in your throat take some Cinnamon Tea or Cinnamon stick Tea. It is said to stop an impending illness in its tracks. Again this is related to the anti bacterial properties and warming properties of Cinnamon and its propensity to increase blood flow and thereby improve blood oxygen levels to fight illness. Chinese traditional medicine commonly recommends Cinnamon for phlegm coughs.
- Alzheimer’s Disease – This article cites an Israeli study done at the University of Tel Aviv that found sufficient evidence to conclude that Cinnamon can delay the effects of five aggressive strains of Alzheimer's inducing genes. Another study also finds that orally administered Cinnamon extract has had good success in correcting Cognitive Impairment in Alzheimer's Disease in Animal Models.
The latest finding indicate that two compounds found in cinnamon — cinnamaldehyde and epicatechin — may be effective in fighting Alzheimer's. According to a study by Roshni George and Donald Graves in 2013, two scientists at UC Santa Barbara, Cinnamon has been shown to prevent the development of the filamentous “tangles” found in the brain cells that characterize Alzheimer’s.
- PMS - Again because of the high levels of Manganese Cinnamon may be an excellent candidate to mitigate the effects of PMS. According to the University of Maryland web site women who ate 5.6 mg of manganese in their diets each day had fewer mood swings and cramps compared to those who ate only 1 mg of manganese. These results suggest that a manganese rich diet may help reduce symptoms of PMS. Another clinical study found that 46 patients with PMS had significantly lower amounts of calcium, chromium, copper, and manganese in their blood. You should not consume more than 11 mg of Manganese per day (about 12 cinnamon sticks) according NYU. FDA guidelines establishes a daily value of 2mg (about 2 Cinnamon sticks).
Can You Dry Frozen Cranberries?
It is possible to use frozen cranberries, though from my experience they come out too tough and take forever to dry._
It is possible to use frozen cranberries, though from my experience they come out too tough and take forever to dry._
What Is Nutritional Yeast?
Nutritional yeast is made from a single-celled organism, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae, which is grown on molasses and then harvested, washed, and dried with heat to kill or “deactivate” it. Because it’s inactive, it doesn’t froth or grow like baking yeast does so it has no leavening ability. Don’t worry; no animals are harmed in this process because yeasts are members of the fungi family, like mushrooms, not animals.
Nutritional yeast has such an unappealing name that somebody started calling it “nooch” and the name caught on on the internet. The brand that most vegans use is Red Star Vegetarian Support Formula because it is a good source of vitamin B12 and contains no whey, an animal product that is used in some other brands. In the U.K., nutritional yeast is sold under the Engevita brand and in Australia as savory yeast flakes.
What It Isn’t Nutritional yeast is not the same as brewer’s yeast, which is a product of the beer-making process and is very bitter. It’s also not Torula yeast, which is grown on paper-mill waste and is also not very tasty. And please do not try to substitute active dry yeast or baking yeast, which taste bad and will probably make a huge, frothy mess because their yeasts are alive.
Where Can I Find It? You probably won’t be able to find nutritional yeast in a typical grocery store. I buy it from the bulk bins at the local natural food store, where it is labeled “Vegetarian Support Formula.” Larger grocery stores might have Bob’s Red Mill brand in the natural food section.
You use the flaked version of nutritional yeast, but it’s also available in a powder. If you’re using the powder, you will need only about half as much as the flakes.
Why Use It? As you can guess from its name, nutritional yeast is packed with nutrition, particularly B-vitamins, folic acid, selenium, zinc, and protein. It’s low in fat, gluten-free (check specific brands for certification), and contains no added sugars or preservatives. Because vitamin B12 is absent from plant foods unless it’s added as a supplement, nutritional yeast that contains B12, such as Red Star Vegetarian Support Formula, is a great addition to the vegan diet (though I strongly recommend taking a supplement as the only way to be sure you’re getting enough). Not all nooch has B12, so check the label carefully before buying.
The vitamins and minerals are all well and good, but truthfully, I use nutritional yeast for its flavor, which has been described as cheesy, nutty, savory, and “umami.” Just a tablespoon or two can add richness to soups, gravies, and other dishes, and larger amounts can make “cheese” sauces and eggless scrambles taste cheesy and eggy.
The savory, umami taste of nutritional yeast comes from glutamaic acid, an amino acid that is formed during the drying process. Glutamic acid is not the same as the commercial additive monosodium glutamate and is a naturally occurring amino acid found in many fruits and vegetables. Adding a small amount of nutritional yeast to a dish enhances the flavors present and helps form a rich flavor base.
If for some reason you can’t find nutritional yeast or can’t use it, you can safely leave it out of recipes where it’s used in small amounts as only a flavor enhancer; in some cases, miso or soy sauce can be used in a 1:3 ratio (1/3 of the amount of nooch called for), though both add sodium, so you may need to reduce the salt. In recipes where nutritional yeast provides the bulk of the flavor, such as vegan cheese sauces, it’s best not to attempt to substitute it.
How Do I Use It? If you’re new to nooch, it’s better to try it a little at a time rather than to dive right into a recipe that uses a lot of it. Try some of the suggestions below, using just a little until you develop a taste for it:
Nutritional yeast is made from a single-celled organism, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae, which is grown on molasses and then harvested, washed, and dried with heat to kill or “deactivate” it. Because it’s inactive, it doesn’t froth or grow like baking yeast does so it has no leavening ability. Don’t worry; no animals are harmed in this process because yeasts are members of the fungi family, like mushrooms, not animals.
Nutritional yeast has such an unappealing name that somebody started calling it “nooch” and the name caught on on the internet. The brand that most vegans use is Red Star Vegetarian Support Formula because it is a good source of vitamin B12 and contains no whey, an animal product that is used in some other brands. In the U.K., nutritional yeast is sold under the Engevita brand and in Australia as savory yeast flakes.
What It Isn’t Nutritional yeast is not the same as brewer’s yeast, which is a product of the beer-making process and is very bitter. It’s also not Torula yeast, which is grown on paper-mill waste and is also not very tasty. And please do not try to substitute active dry yeast or baking yeast, which taste bad and will probably make a huge, frothy mess because their yeasts are alive.
Where Can I Find It? You probably won’t be able to find nutritional yeast in a typical grocery store. I buy it from the bulk bins at the local natural food store, where it is labeled “Vegetarian Support Formula.” Larger grocery stores might have Bob’s Red Mill brand in the natural food section.
You use the flaked version of nutritional yeast, but it’s also available in a powder. If you’re using the powder, you will need only about half as much as the flakes.
Why Use It? As you can guess from its name, nutritional yeast is packed with nutrition, particularly B-vitamins, folic acid, selenium, zinc, and protein. It’s low in fat, gluten-free (check specific brands for certification), and contains no added sugars or preservatives. Because vitamin B12 is absent from plant foods unless it’s added as a supplement, nutritional yeast that contains B12, such as Red Star Vegetarian Support Formula, is a great addition to the vegan diet (though I strongly recommend taking a supplement as the only way to be sure you’re getting enough). Not all nooch has B12, so check the label carefully before buying.
The vitamins and minerals are all well and good, but truthfully, I use nutritional yeast for its flavor, which has been described as cheesy, nutty, savory, and “umami.” Just a tablespoon or two can add richness to soups, gravies, and other dishes, and larger amounts can make “cheese” sauces and eggless scrambles taste cheesy and eggy.
The savory, umami taste of nutritional yeast comes from glutamaic acid, an amino acid that is formed during the drying process. Glutamic acid is not the same as the commercial additive monosodium glutamate and is a naturally occurring amino acid found in many fruits and vegetables. Adding a small amount of nutritional yeast to a dish enhances the flavors present and helps form a rich flavor base.
If for some reason you can’t find nutritional yeast or can’t use it, you can safely leave it out of recipes where it’s used in small amounts as only a flavor enhancer; in some cases, miso or soy sauce can be used in a 1:3 ratio (1/3 of the amount of nooch called for), though both add sodium, so you may need to reduce the salt. In recipes where nutritional yeast provides the bulk of the flavor, such as vegan cheese sauces, it’s best not to attempt to substitute it.
How Do I Use It? If you’re new to nooch, it’s better to try it a little at a time rather than to dive right into a recipe that uses a lot of it. Try some of the suggestions below, using just a little until you develop a taste for it:
- Sprinkle it on popcorn.
- Stir it into mashed potatoes.
- Add a little to the cooking water for “cheesy grits” or polenta.
- Sprinkle on any pasta dish.
- Make almond “parmesan” by blending nutritional yeast with raw almonds in a food processor.
- Add a tablespoon or two to bean dishes to enhance flavors.
WHAT'S A HYPERTUFA BALL?
Hypertufa Spheres Hypertufa (pronounced hyper-toofa) is a man made, concrete like material that is light weight, yet surprisingly durable and versatile. It can be used to make planters, garden ornaments, sculptures or stepping stones.
This project is a good way to get acquainted with the medium. It’s pretty simple and the end result is an organically shaped sphere, which means you don’t have to worry about being perfect.
There are several different recipes for the hypertufa mix. The one I have provided here is a basic combination of Portland cement, peat and Perlite. Perlite is a potting soil amendment that looks like tiny styrofoam packing peanuts. It's very lightweight. You should be able to find it at your local garden center. Sand can be used if Perlite is not available. An online search of hypertufa will provide you with some other recipes and ideas. I encourage you to explore the possibilities.
Materials:
Waterproof Gloves
Safety Goggles
Dust Mask (when mixing ingredients dust is caustic and damaging to the lungs)
Portland Cement
Peat
Perlite (or sand)
Water
Rubber Balls
Bucket or Bin for Mixing
Trowel or Scoop
Something to cradle the sphere while it cures such as a Box and newspaper or old nursery pots.
Directions:
Select an area to make your hypertufa sphere that is open and well-ventilated but sheltered from breezes. Gusts of air will dry the mixture prematurely. I set up a work table in my garage and opened the garage door.
Cut a hole in the side of your rubber ball. It should be large enough to accommodate your trowel or scoop, but not so large that the ball won’t hold its shape when filled with hypertufa mix.
Mix 1 part Portland cement, 1.5 part peat and 1.5 part Perlite. If you are substituting sand for Perlite use 1 part Portland cement, 1 part peat and 1 part sand. Make sure everything is well blended and any large chunks of peat are broken up.
Slowly add enough water to moisten the mix. It should be the consistency of oatmeal or porridge.
Scoop the moist hypertufa into your prepared rubber ball.
The key to hypertufa’s durability is the curing process. To keep it from cracking it should be allowed to dry slowly. To keep the shape of the sphere while it cures, the balls need to be placed in a stand. I used old nursery pots, but a box stuffed with balled up newspaper would work nicely too.
After a month remove the sphere from the box. Peel or cut away the rubber ball. Wear rubber gloves when you do this, as the material may still irritate your skin.
Because it is a solid form, the hypertufa may not be completely dry so protect table surfaces if you bring your sphere indoors. Mine are out in the garden. They’ve become nicely weathered and mossy but have held up quite well. I even leave them outdoors during winter and they have not been damaged by freezing temperatures.
Hypertufa Spheres Hypertufa (pronounced hyper-toofa) is a man made, concrete like material that is light weight, yet surprisingly durable and versatile. It can be used to make planters, garden ornaments, sculptures or stepping stones.
This project is a good way to get acquainted with the medium. It’s pretty simple and the end result is an organically shaped sphere, which means you don’t have to worry about being perfect.
There are several different recipes for the hypertufa mix. The one I have provided here is a basic combination of Portland cement, peat and Perlite. Perlite is a potting soil amendment that looks like tiny styrofoam packing peanuts. It's very lightweight. You should be able to find it at your local garden center. Sand can be used if Perlite is not available. An online search of hypertufa will provide you with some other recipes and ideas. I encourage you to explore the possibilities.
Materials:
Waterproof Gloves
Safety Goggles
Dust Mask (when mixing ingredients dust is caustic and damaging to the lungs)
Portland Cement
Peat
Perlite (or sand)
Water
Rubber Balls
Bucket or Bin for Mixing
Trowel or Scoop
Something to cradle the sphere while it cures such as a Box and newspaper or old nursery pots.
Directions:
Select an area to make your hypertufa sphere that is open and well-ventilated but sheltered from breezes. Gusts of air will dry the mixture prematurely. I set up a work table in my garage and opened the garage door.
Cut a hole in the side of your rubber ball. It should be large enough to accommodate your trowel or scoop, but not so large that the ball won’t hold its shape when filled with hypertufa mix.
Mix 1 part Portland cement, 1.5 part peat and 1.5 part Perlite. If you are substituting sand for Perlite use 1 part Portland cement, 1 part peat and 1 part sand. Make sure everything is well blended and any large chunks of peat are broken up.
Slowly add enough water to moisten the mix. It should be the consistency of oatmeal or porridge.
Scoop the moist hypertufa into your prepared rubber ball.
The key to hypertufa’s durability is the curing process. To keep it from cracking it should be allowed to dry slowly. To keep the shape of the sphere while it cures, the balls need to be placed in a stand. I used old nursery pots, but a box stuffed with balled up newspaper would work nicely too.
After a month remove the sphere from the box. Peel or cut away the rubber ball. Wear rubber gloves when you do this, as the material may still irritate your skin.
Because it is a solid form, the hypertufa may not be completely dry so protect table surfaces if you bring your sphere indoors. Mine are out in the garden. They’ve become nicely weathered and mossy but have held up quite well. I even leave them outdoors during winter and they have not been damaged by freezing temperatures.
I have a Mennonite cookbook that has a few recipes that call for sweet milk and sweet cream. What exactly are they referring to?
According to the Dairy Council of Wisconsin, the terms "sweet milk" and "sweet cream" were used to differentiate these items from cultured products like buttermilk and sour cream. When a recipe calls for sweet milk, it is referring to whole milk. When a recipe calls for sweet cream, it is referring to half-and-half cream or whipping cream, depending on the recipe.
Is Basil Good for You?
Have a look at these brilliant basil facts:
1. Adding basil to your diet can help to protect you from bacteria, yeast and mold. Basil has strong anti-bacterial properties. This powerful plant contains several essential oils that have been found to exhibit antimicrobial activity against a wide range of bacteria such as listeria, staphylococcus and salmonella. These strains of bacteria are not only widespread, but are becoming resistant to treatment with antibiotic drugs.
2. Basil has strong anti-inflammatory properties. Basil not only provides healing benefits for people with inflammatory diseases such as arthritis and inflammatory bowel disease, but it also provides relief from the symptoms. The volatile oils in basil contain a compound called eugenol, which mimics the action of over-the-counter anti-inflammatory medications such as ibuprofen and acetaminophen.
3. Basil can protect your DNA from radiation and oxidative damage. Basil contains compounds called flavonoids. Two of these compounds, orientin and vicenin, have been studied extensively and results show that they protect the structure of cells as well as chromosomes from damage caused by radiation and oxidation.
4. Basil contains volatile essential oils that can help in the fight against acne. The volatile oils in found in basil have strong antimicrobial action that can help to fight the bacteria responsible for causing acne.
5. Basil oil’s eugenol also has anti-cancer properties. It is well documented that eugenol has a protective effect against melanoma, skin tumours, osteosarcoma and leukemia.
6. Basil can protect your heart and help to reduce blood pressure. The high levels of beta carotene in basil will be converted in the body to vitamin A. This vitamin provides strong antioxidant protection to the lining of the blood vessels and helps to prevent damage from free radicals. The high levels of magnesium in basil have been shown to relax blood vessels and improve blood flow.
1. Adding basil to your diet can help to protect you from bacteria, yeast and mold. Basil has strong anti-bacterial properties. This powerful plant contains several essential oils that have been found to exhibit antimicrobial activity against a wide range of bacteria such as listeria, staphylococcus and salmonella. These strains of bacteria are not only widespread, but are becoming resistant to treatment with antibiotic drugs.
2. Basil has strong anti-inflammatory properties. Basil not only provides healing benefits for people with inflammatory diseases such as arthritis and inflammatory bowel disease, but it also provides relief from the symptoms. The volatile oils in basil contain a compound called eugenol, which mimics the action of over-the-counter anti-inflammatory medications such as ibuprofen and acetaminophen.
3. Basil can protect your DNA from radiation and oxidative damage. Basil contains compounds called flavonoids. Two of these compounds, orientin and vicenin, have been studied extensively and results show that they protect the structure of cells as well as chromosomes from damage caused by radiation and oxidation.
4. Basil contains volatile essential oils that can help in the fight against acne. The volatile oils in found in basil have strong antimicrobial action that can help to fight the bacteria responsible for causing acne.
5. Basil oil’s eugenol also has anti-cancer properties. It is well documented that eugenol has a protective effect against melanoma, skin tumours, osteosarcoma and leukemia.
6. Basil can protect your heart and help to reduce blood pressure. The high levels of beta carotene in basil will be converted in the body to vitamin A. This vitamin provides strong antioxidant protection to the lining of the blood vessels and helps to prevent damage from free radicals. The high levels of magnesium in basil have been shown to relax blood vessels and improve blood flow.
Tell Me About Plums Please. I Know Nothing.
Health Benefits The fresh version (plums) and the dried version (prunes) of the plant scientifically known as Prunus domestica have been the subject of repeated health research for their high content of unique phytonutrients called neochlorogenic and chlorogenic acid. These substances found in plum and prune are classified as phenols, and their function as antioxidants has been well-documented.
Significant Antioxidant Protection from Phenols
These damage-preventing substances are particularly effective in neutralizing a particularly destructive oxygen radical called superoxide anion radical, and they have also been shown to help prevent oxygen-based damage to fats, such as the fats that comprise a substantial portion of our brain cells or neurons, the cholesterol and triglycerides circulating in our bloodstream, or the fats that make up our cell membranes.
Better Iron Absorption Plus More Antioxidant Protection from Vitamin C
The ability of plum and prune to increase absorption of iron into the body has also been documented in published research. This ability of plum and prune to make iron more available may be related to the vitamin C content of this fruit. Our food ranking system qualified plums as a very good source of vitamin C.
In addition to assisting with absorption of iron, vitamin C is needed in the body to make healthy tissue and is also needed for a strong immune system. Getting a little extra vitamin C around cold and flu season is a good idea, and may also be helpful for people who suffer from recurrent ear infections. Vitamin C also helps to protect cholesterol from becoming oxidized by free radicals. Since oxidized cholesterol is the kind that builds up in the arteries and causes damage to blood vessels, some extra vitamin C can be helpful for people who suffer from atherosclerosis or diabetic heart disease. In addition, vitamin C can help neutralize free radicals that could otherwise contribute to the development or progression of conditions like asthma, colon cancer, osteoarthritis, and rheumatoid arthritis, so vitamin C may be able to help those who are at risk or suffering from these conditions. Owing to the multitude of vitamin C's health benefits, it is not surprising that research has shown that consumption of vegetables and fruits high in this nutrient is associated with a reduced risk of death from all causes including heart disease, stroke and cancer.
Protection against Macular Degeneration
Your mother may have told you carrots would keep your eyes bright as a child, but as an adult, it looks like fruit is even more important for keeping your sight. Data reported in a study published in the Archives of Ophthalmology indicates that eating 3 or more servings of fruit per day may lower your risk of age-related macular degeneration (ARMD), the primary cause of vision loss in older adults, by 36%, compared to persons who consume less than 1.5 servings of fruit daily.
In this study, which involved over 110,000 women and men, researchers evaluated the effect of study participants' consumption of fruits; vegetables; the antioxidant vitamins A, C, and E; and carotenoids on the development of early ARMD or neovascular ARMD, a more severe form of the illness associated with vision loss. While, surprisingly, intakes of vegetables, antioxidant vitamins and carotenoids were not strongly related to incidence of either form of ARMD, fruit intake was definitely protective against the severe form of this vision-destroying disease. Three servings of fruit may sound like a lot to eat each day, but plums can help you reach this goal. Add diced plums to your morning cereal, lunch time yogurt or green salads. For a beautiful and delicious brown rice, add chopped plums and pistachios. Need to grab a snack? What could be better than a cool, sweet, juicy plum on a summer's day?
Our food ranking system also qualified plums as a good source of vitamin A (in the form of beta-carotene), dietary fiber and potassium.
Description
One of the unique things about plums is that there are so many varieties available. Not only do over 2,000 varieties of plums exist, but over 100 are available in the United States alone. So, if you are looking for a juicy, sweet tasting fruit that comes in a panorama of colors, plums are for you.
Plums are classified into six general categories—Japanese, American, Damson, Ornamental, Wild and European/Garden—whose size, shape and colors vary. Although usually round, plums can also be oval or heart-shaped. The skins of plums can be red, purple, blue-black, red, green, yellow or amber, while their flesh comes in hues such as yellow, green and pink and orange—a virtual rainbow.
Plums belong to the Prunus genus of plants and are relatives of the peach, nectarine and almond. They are all considered "drupes," fruits that have a hard stone pit surrounding their seeds. When plums are dried, they become the fruit we know as prunes.
The scientific name for plums is Prunus domestica.
History
With the large number of plums available, it is not surprising that the various types have different heritages and places of origin. The European plum is thought to have been discovered around two thousand years ago, originating in the area near the Caspian Sea. Even in ancient Roman times, there were already over 300 varieties of European plums. European plums made their way across the Atlantic Ocean with the pilgrims, who introduced them into the United States in the 17th century.
While Japanese plums actually originated in China, they derived their name from the country where much of their cultivation and development occurred. Japanese plums were introduced to the U.S. in the late 19th century. Today, the United States, Russia, China and Romania are among the main producers of commercially grown plums.
How to Select and Store
If you want to purchase plums that are ripe and ready to eat, look for ones that yield to gentle pressure and that are slightly soft at their tip. While you can also purchase plums that are firm and ripen them at home, avoid those that are excessively hard as they will be immature and will probably not develop a good taste and texture profile. Good quality plums will feature a rich color and may still have a slight whitish bloom, reflecting that they have not been overhandled. They should also be free of punctures, bruises or any signs of decay. Plums are generally available in the marketplace from May through the early fall.
Plums that are not yet ripe can be left at room temperature. As this fruit tends to mature quickly, check on them in the next day or two to ensure that they do not become overripe. Once they are ripe, plums can be stored in the refrigerator for a few days. While plums can be frozen, to ensure maximum taste remove their stone pits before placing them in the freezer.
For the most antioxidants, consume plums when fully ripened:
Research conducted at the University of Innsbruck in Austria suggests that as fruits fully ripen, almost to the point of spoilage, their antioxidant levels actually increase.
Key to the process is the change in color that occurs as fruits ripen, a similar process to that seen in the fall when leaves turn from green to red to yellow to brown—a color change caused by the breakdown and disappearance of chlorophyll, which gives leaves and fruits their green color.
Until now, no one really knew what happened to chlorophyll during this process, but lead researcher, Bernard Kräutler, and his team, working together with botanists over the past several years, has identified the first decomposition products in leaves: colorless, polar NCCs (nonfluorescing chlorophyll catabolytes), that contain four pyrrole rings—like chlorophyll and heme.
After examining apples and pears, the scientists discovered that NCCs replace the chlorophyll not only in the leaves of fruit trees, but in their very ripe fruits, especially in the peel and flesh immediately below it.
"When chlorophyll is released from its protein complexes in the decomposition process, it has a phototoxic effect: when irradiated with light, it absorbs energy and can transfer it to other substances. For example, it can transform oxygen into a highly reactive, destructive form," report the researchers. However, NCCs have just the opposite effect. Extremely powerful antioxidants, they play an important protective role for the plant, and when consumed as part of the human diet, NCCs deliver the same potent antioxidant protection within our bodies.
Tips for Preparing and Cooking Tips for Preparing Plums
Plums are delicious eaten as is. If the plums have been in the refrigerator, allow them to approach room temperature before eating them as this will help them attain the maximum juiciness and sweetness. If you want to first remove the pit before eating or cooking, cut the plum in half lengthwise, gently twist the halves in opposite directions and then carefully take out the pit.
Plums can also be used in a variety of recipes and are usually baked or poached. If you want to remove the skin, this process can be made easier by first blanching the plum in boiling water for 30 seconds. Once you remove the fruits from the water, quickly run them under cold water before peeling to stop the blanching process and allow for easier handling.
How to Enjoy A Few Quick Serving Ideas
Individual Concerns
Plums and Oxalates
Plums are among a small number of foods that contain measurable amounts of oxalates, naturally-occurring substances found in plants, animals, and human beings. When oxalates become too concentrated in body fluids, they can crystallize and cause health problems. For this reason, individuals with already existing and untreated kidney or gallbladder problems may want to avoid eating plums. Laboratory studies have shown that oxalates may also interfere with absorption of calcium from the body. Yet, in every peer-reviewed research study we've seen, the ability of oxalates to lower calcium absorption is relatively small and definitely does not outweigh the ability of oxalate-containing foods to contribute calcium to the meal plan. If your digestive tract is healthy, and you do a good job of chewing and relaxing while you enjoy your meals, you will get significant benefits—including absorption of calcium—from calcium-rich foods plant foods that also contain oxalic acid. Ordinarily, a healthcare practitioner would not discourage a person focused on ensuring that they are meeting their calcium requirements from eating these nutrient-rich foods because of their oxalate content.
Plums are a very good source of vitamin C. They are also a good source of vitamin A, vitamin K, potassium, and dietary fiber.
Significant Antioxidant Protection from Phenols
These damage-preventing substances are particularly effective in neutralizing a particularly destructive oxygen radical called superoxide anion radical, and they have also been shown to help prevent oxygen-based damage to fats, such as the fats that comprise a substantial portion of our brain cells or neurons, the cholesterol and triglycerides circulating in our bloodstream, or the fats that make up our cell membranes.
Better Iron Absorption Plus More Antioxidant Protection from Vitamin C
The ability of plum and prune to increase absorption of iron into the body has also been documented in published research. This ability of plum and prune to make iron more available may be related to the vitamin C content of this fruit. Our food ranking system qualified plums as a very good source of vitamin C.
In addition to assisting with absorption of iron, vitamin C is needed in the body to make healthy tissue and is also needed for a strong immune system. Getting a little extra vitamin C around cold and flu season is a good idea, and may also be helpful for people who suffer from recurrent ear infections. Vitamin C also helps to protect cholesterol from becoming oxidized by free radicals. Since oxidized cholesterol is the kind that builds up in the arteries and causes damage to blood vessels, some extra vitamin C can be helpful for people who suffer from atherosclerosis or diabetic heart disease. In addition, vitamin C can help neutralize free radicals that could otherwise contribute to the development or progression of conditions like asthma, colon cancer, osteoarthritis, and rheumatoid arthritis, so vitamin C may be able to help those who are at risk or suffering from these conditions. Owing to the multitude of vitamin C's health benefits, it is not surprising that research has shown that consumption of vegetables and fruits high in this nutrient is associated with a reduced risk of death from all causes including heart disease, stroke and cancer.
Protection against Macular Degeneration
Your mother may have told you carrots would keep your eyes bright as a child, but as an adult, it looks like fruit is even more important for keeping your sight. Data reported in a study published in the Archives of Ophthalmology indicates that eating 3 or more servings of fruit per day may lower your risk of age-related macular degeneration (ARMD), the primary cause of vision loss in older adults, by 36%, compared to persons who consume less than 1.5 servings of fruit daily.
In this study, which involved over 110,000 women and men, researchers evaluated the effect of study participants' consumption of fruits; vegetables; the antioxidant vitamins A, C, and E; and carotenoids on the development of early ARMD or neovascular ARMD, a more severe form of the illness associated with vision loss. While, surprisingly, intakes of vegetables, antioxidant vitamins and carotenoids were not strongly related to incidence of either form of ARMD, fruit intake was definitely protective against the severe form of this vision-destroying disease. Three servings of fruit may sound like a lot to eat each day, but plums can help you reach this goal. Add diced plums to your morning cereal, lunch time yogurt or green salads. For a beautiful and delicious brown rice, add chopped plums and pistachios. Need to grab a snack? What could be better than a cool, sweet, juicy plum on a summer's day?
Our food ranking system also qualified plums as a good source of vitamin A (in the form of beta-carotene), dietary fiber and potassium.
Description
One of the unique things about plums is that there are so many varieties available. Not only do over 2,000 varieties of plums exist, but over 100 are available in the United States alone. So, if you are looking for a juicy, sweet tasting fruit that comes in a panorama of colors, plums are for you.
Plums are classified into six general categories—Japanese, American, Damson, Ornamental, Wild and European/Garden—whose size, shape and colors vary. Although usually round, plums can also be oval or heart-shaped. The skins of plums can be red, purple, blue-black, red, green, yellow or amber, while their flesh comes in hues such as yellow, green and pink and orange—a virtual rainbow.
Plums belong to the Prunus genus of plants and are relatives of the peach, nectarine and almond. They are all considered "drupes," fruits that have a hard stone pit surrounding their seeds. When plums are dried, they become the fruit we know as prunes.
The scientific name for plums is Prunus domestica.
History
With the large number of plums available, it is not surprising that the various types have different heritages and places of origin. The European plum is thought to have been discovered around two thousand years ago, originating in the area near the Caspian Sea. Even in ancient Roman times, there were already over 300 varieties of European plums. European plums made their way across the Atlantic Ocean with the pilgrims, who introduced them into the United States in the 17th century.
While Japanese plums actually originated in China, they derived their name from the country where much of their cultivation and development occurred. Japanese plums were introduced to the U.S. in the late 19th century. Today, the United States, Russia, China and Romania are among the main producers of commercially grown plums.
How to Select and Store
If you want to purchase plums that are ripe and ready to eat, look for ones that yield to gentle pressure and that are slightly soft at their tip. While you can also purchase plums that are firm and ripen them at home, avoid those that are excessively hard as they will be immature and will probably not develop a good taste and texture profile. Good quality plums will feature a rich color and may still have a slight whitish bloom, reflecting that they have not been overhandled. They should also be free of punctures, bruises or any signs of decay. Plums are generally available in the marketplace from May through the early fall.
Plums that are not yet ripe can be left at room temperature. As this fruit tends to mature quickly, check on them in the next day or two to ensure that they do not become overripe. Once they are ripe, plums can be stored in the refrigerator for a few days. While plums can be frozen, to ensure maximum taste remove their stone pits before placing them in the freezer.
For the most antioxidants, consume plums when fully ripened:
Research conducted at the University of Innsbruck in Austria suggests that as fruits fully ripen, almost to the point of spoilage, their antioxidant levels actually increase.
Key to the process is the change in color that occurs as fruits ripen, a similar process to that seen in the fall when leaves turn from green to red to yellow to brown—a color change caused by the breakdown and disappearance of chlorophyll, which gives leaves and fruits their green color.
Until now, no one really knew what happened to chlorophyll during this process, but lead researcher, Bernard Kräutler, and his team, working together with botanists over the past several years, has identified the first decomposition products in leaves: colorless, polar NCCs (nonfluorescing chlorophyll catabolytes), that contain four pyrrole rings—like chlorophyll and heme.
After examining apples and pears, the scientists discovered that NCCs replace the chlorophyll not only in the leaves of fruit trees, but in their very ripe fruits, especially in the peel and flesh immediately below it.
"When chlorophyll is released from its protein complexes in the decomposition process, it has a phototoxic effect: when irradiated with light, it absorbs energy and can transfer it to other substances. For example, it can transform oxygen into a highly reactive, destructive form," report the researchers. However, NCCs have just the opposite effect. Extremely powerful antioxidants, they play an important protective role for the plant, and when consumed as part of the human diet, NCCs deliver the same potent antioxidant protection within our bodies.
Tips for Preparing and Cooking Tips for Preparing Plums
Plums are delicious eaten as is. If the plums have been in the refrigerator, allow them to approach room temperature before eating them as this will help them attain the maximum juiciness and sweetness. If you want to first remove the pit before eating or cooking, cut the plum in half lengthwise, gently twist the halves in opposite directions and then carefully take out the pit.
Plums can also be used in a variety of recipes and are usually baked or poached. If you want to remove the skin, this process can be made easier by first blanching the plum in boiling water for 30 seconds. Once you remove the fruits from the water, quickly run them under cold water before peeling to stop the blanching process and allow for easier handling.
How to Enjoy A Few Quick Serving Ideas
- Make pizza with a twist by broiling sliced plums, goat cheese, walnuts and sage on top of a whole wheat pita bread or pizza crust.
- For a delightful dessert, poach plums in a red wine and serve with lemon zest.
- Bake pitted plum halves in a 200°F(93°C) oven until they are wrinkled. Then mix them into a rye bread recipe for a scrumptiously sweet and hardy bread.
- Blend stewed plums and combine with yogurt and honey for wonderful cold soup.
- Add plum slices to cold cereal.
Individual Concerns
Plums and Oxalates
Plums are among a small number of foods that contain measurable amounts of oxalates, naturally-occurring substances found in plants, animals, and human beings. When oxalates become too concentrated in body fluids, they can crystallize and cause health problems. For this reason, individuals with already existing and untreated kidney or gallbladder problems may want to avoid eating plums. Laboratory studies have shown that oxalates may also interfere with absorption of calcium from the body. Yet, in every peer-reviewed research study we've seen, the ability of oxalates to lower calcium absorption is relatively small and definitely does not outweigh the ability of oxalate-containing foods to contribute calcium to the meal plan. If your digestive tract is healthy, and you do a good job of chewing and relaxing while you enjoy your meals, you will get significant benefits—including absorption of calcium—from calcium-rich foods plant foods that also contain oxalic acid. Ordinarily, a healthcare practitioner would not discourage a person focused on ensuring that they are meeting their calcium requirements from eating these nutrient-rich foods because of their oxalate content.
Plums are a very good source of vitamin C. They are also a good source of vitamin A, vitamin K, potassium, and dietary fiber.
Could You Give Some Me History on Parsnips, Please?
The earliest evidence of the human consumption of parsnips has been found in Stone Age remains in Switzerland and South Germany. This has presented botanists with an anomaly, because the genetic home of the parsnip is believed to be the Italian peninsula. In any case, there is little doubt that those Stone Age plants were gathered from the wild rather than cultivated in a garden. Later archaeological remains from the Roman period are many, for the parsnip was one of the root vegetables commonly found in kitchen gardens of that era. The history of the plant is complicated by the fact that classic and medieval authors lumped together parsnips and carrots as two forms of the same thing, so it is often difficult to decipher which one they were discussing, especially since the terms pastinaca and carota were used interchangeably.
In the garden plan of the cloister of St. Gall in Switzerland, a parchment surviving from about A.D. 820, one of the raised beds is clearly labeled pastinacbus, but this could also mean white carrots. The first clear reference to the cultivation of the parsnip appeared in France in 1393 and again in 1473. From that time on, parsnips were treated by themselves in herbals, so the murkiness eventually parts to reveal the vegetable with all of its familiar attributes.
By the middle of the nineteenth century, there were three distinct varieties cultivated in Europe: the long smooth parsnip (the coquaine of France), the turnip-rooted short parsnip known in France as the noisette Lisbonaise, and the yellow-rooted Siam parsnip. The first of these was developed in Holland, the others were French. All of these were once widely cultivated in France, Germany, and Central Europe. Today, the centers of parsnip cultivation are England and France.
The parsnip was a popular vegetable in the United States during the nineteenth century, indeed since the colonial period, but its popularity has now faded. Parsnips brought here by English settlers in the 1600s have escaped and naturalized in many parts of the country. These wild parsnips present a problem for seed savers, because they will cross with the cultivated sorts and cause them to degenerate. On the other hand, they offer ripe ground for breeding new varieties, for one of the most popular of our Victorian varieties, The Student, was created in England from a wild parsnip salvaged from a field in the Cotswolds.
Early American seed lists do not usually list many distinct varieties. The Shakers (1843, 12) offered the long white, the most common sort grown in this country and the one equivalent to the coquaine of France. Fearing Burr listed a number of others, but they were rarely seen in the United States. The Guernsey (panais long of France) was introduced into England in 1826, but never grown much in this country. The Hollow Crown, also dating from the early 1820s, became one of the varieties preferred by many American kitchen gardeners, and one that I heartily recommend. In fact, I would suggest only two heirloom varieties to the general gardener, The Student and the Hollow Crown. Since they are very similar in taste and texture when cooked, probably one or the other would suffice in a small garden. However, I would test them both to determine how they react to the soil, and let that success determine the choice.
Growing Parsnips Parsnips should be sown as early in the spring as possible because the cold ground revives the seed from deep dormancy. It was discovered long ago that the largest roots are produced by fresh seed, so if it is at all possible, plant the seed soon after it ripens on the plants. Otherwise, plant seed that is clearly dated and unquestionably new, for the viability is only one year. It is pointless to consider saving seed beyond what is necessary for immediate use.
Parsnips tops are large and need a good 1 1/2 to 2 feet of elbow room in all directions. Spacing plants at this distance will produce huge, flavorful roots. Closer than that (seed packets usually recommend 6-inch spacing), the parsnips will develop into something akin to a rather plump carrot. Many people prefer these small parsnips over the large. I think it is important to realize that cultural technique will go far in determining the size of the crop. Unlike carrots, parsnips may be left in the ground all winter. They are often harvested late in the fall after the tops have been nipped by frost, yet many cooks firmly believe that the flavor peaks in the early spring right after the ground thaws. Freezing does not damage the roots. Covering them with straw makes them easier to dig when needed. Otherwise, dig the roots in the fall and store in damp sand in a cool place. Once the plants to begin to grow the following year, the roots turn pithy and cannot be used in cookery. As soon as the plants bolt and begin to bloom, they should be staked so that the seed heads are not broken over by heavy rains. Seed is gathered and dried in the same manner as for carrots.
A special word of caution: The leaves of parsnips exude a juice that causes severe skin rashes on many people, one reason why parsnip greens are not sold on the roots displayed in markets. When harvesting parsnips, always be sure to wear gloves and to wash the hands thoroughly before touching the face or eyes.
Hollow Crown Parsnip
Pastinaca sativa
This variety became popular in England in the 1820s. George Lindley (1831, 565) listed it among the varieties recommended for kitchen gardens, and it appeared on many American seed lists during the nineteenth century. The variety distinguishes itself by a sunken crown where the leaves are attached to the root. It was considered one of the best of the very long-rooted varieties, but needs deep sandy soil to develop roots true to type. I grow it in a raised bed half filled with sand, and this seems to encourage well-shaped roots, yet if the root strikes a pebble or some other small obstacle in the soil, it will bend or divide into branches. For best results, trench the site deeply and screen the topsoil. The roots often reach 24 inches in length, so care must be taken when digging them not to cut off the ends with the shovel. Better yet, use a pitchfork.
Hollow Crown and another old variety called the sugar parsnip were often used to make muffins and small breads for tea during the Victorian period. The following recipe from Hannah Bouvier Peterson’s National Cook Book (1855, 167) provides instructions on how this was accomplished. The result was called a “cake” in the parlance of the times, being a cupcake in shape, but more like an English muffin in texture.
Parsnip Cake Boil your parsnips till perfectly soft; pass them through a colander. To one tea cupful of mashed parsnip add one quart of warm milk, with a quarter of a pound of butter dissolved in it, a little salt, and one gill of yeast, with flour enough to make a thick batter. Set it away to rise, which will require several hours, when light stir in as much flour as will make a dough, knead it well and let it rise again. Make it out in cakes about a quarter or half an inch thick, butter your tins or pans, put them on and set them to rise. As soon as they are light bake them in a very hot oven. When done wash over the tops with a little water, and send them to the table hot.
The Student Parsnip
Pastinaca sativa
The Vilmorin experiments with the wild Belgian carrot encouraged horticulturists in other countries to look for kitchen garden material in the wild. Professor Buckman of the Royal Agriculture College at Cirencester, England, gathered seed from wild parsnips in the Cotswold hills in 1847. In 1848 he selected plants with certain leaf characteristics, such as fewer hairs, the source of the rash-causing juice. The best of the roots were reserved for seedlings. He repeated this in 1849 and 1850 and continued selecting until 1859, when the variety attained the form we now know as The Student. Buckman sold rights to this new variety to Suttons, the London seed house that first distributed it and gave it its name. Since then. The Student has become a perennial favorite among kitchen gardeners because it produces consistently and of all the parsnip varieties is the least likely to deteriorate.
The salient features of this variety are its short length, never more than 15 inches, and its quickly tapering, wedge-shaped root that is better suited for heavy soils than Hollow Crown.
In the garden plan of the cloister of St. Gall in Switzerland, a parchment surviving from about A.D. 820, one of the raised beds is clearly labeled pastinacbus, but this could also mean white carrots. The first clear reference to the cultivation of the parsnip appeared in France in 1393 and again in 1473. From that time on, parsnips were treated by themselves in herbals, so the murkiness eventually parts to reveal the vegetable with all of its familiar attributes.
By the middle of the nineteenth century, there were three distinct varieties cultivated in Europe: the long smooth parsnip (the coquaine of France), the turnip-rooted short parsnip known in France as the noisette Lisbonaise, and the yellow-rooted Siam parsnip. The first of these was developed in Holland, the others were French. All of these were once widely cultivated in France, Germany, and Central Europe. Today, the centers of parsnip cultivation are England and France.
The parsnip was a popular vegetable in the United States during the nineteenth century, indeed since the colonial period, but its popularity has now faded. Parsnips brought here by English settlers in the 1600s have escaped and naturalized in many parts of the country. These wild parsnips present a problem for seed savers, because they will cross with the cultivated sorts and cause them to degenerate. On the other hand, they offer ripe ground for breeding new varieties, for one of the most popular of our Victorian varieties, The Student, was created in England from a wild parsnip salvaged from a field in the Cotswolds.
Early American seed lists do not usually list many distinct varieties. The Shakers (1843, 12) offered the long white, the most common sort grown in this country and the one equivalent to the coquaine of France. Fearing Burr listed a number of others, but they were rarely seen in the United States. The Guernsey (panais long of France) was introduced into England in 1826, but never grown much in this country. The Hollow Crown, also dating from the early 1820s, became one of the varieties preferred by many American kitchen gardeners, and one that I heartily recommend. In fact, I would suggest only two heirloom varieties to the general gardener, The Student and the Hollow Crown. Since they are very similar in taste and texture when cooked, probably one or the other would suffice in a small garden. However, I would test them both to determine how they react to the soil, and let that success determine the choice.
Growing Parsnips Parsnips should be sown as early in the spring as possible because the cold ground revives the seed from deep dormancy. It was discovered long ago that the largest roots are produced by fresh seed, so if it is at all possible, plant the seed soon after it ripens on the plants. Otherwise, plant seed that is clearly dated and unquestionably new, for the viability is only one year. It is pointless to consider saving seed beyond what is necessary for immediate use.
Parsnips tops are large and need a good 1 1/2 to 2 feet of elbow room in all directions. Spacing plants at this distance will produce huge, flavorful roots. Closer than that (seed packets usually recommend 6-inch spacing), the parsnips will develop into something akin to a rather plump carrot. Many people prefer these small parsnips over the large. I think it is important to realize that cultural technique will go far in determining the size of the crop. Unlike carrots, parsnips may be left in the ground all winter. They are often harvested late in the fall after the tops have been nipped by frost, yet many cooks firmly believe that the flavor peaks in the early spring right after the ground thaws. Freezing does not damage the roots. Covering them with straw makes them easier to dig when needed. Otherwise, dig the roots in the fall and store in damp sand in a cool place. Once the plants to begin to grow the following year, the roots turn pithy and cannot be used in cookery. As soon as the plants bolt and begin to bloom, they should be staked so that the seed heads are not broken over by heavy rains. Seed is gathered and dried in the same manner as for carrots.
A special word of caution: The leaves of parsnips exude a juice that causes severe skin rashes on many people, one reason why parsnip greens are not sold on the roots displayed in markets. When harvesting parsnips, always be sure to wear gloves and to wash the hands thoroughly before touching the face or eyes.
Hollow Crown Parsnip
Pastinaca sativa
This variety became popular in England in the 1820s. George Lindley (1831, 565) listed it among the varieties recommended for kitchen gardens, and it appeared on many American seed lists during the nineteenth century. The variety distinguishes itself by a sunken crown where the leaves are attached to the root. It was considered one of the best of the very long-rooted varieties, but needs deep sandy soil to develop roots true to type. I grow it in a raised bed half filled with sand, and this seems to encourage well-shaped roots, yet if the root strikes a pebble or some other small obstacle in the soil, it will bend or divide into branches. For best results, trench the site deeply and screen the topsoil. The roots often reach 24 inches in length, so care must be taken when digging them not to cut off the ends with the shovel. Better yet, use a pitchfork.
Hollow Crown and another old variety called the sugar parsnip were often used to make muffins and small breads for tea during the Victorian period. The following recipe from Hannah Bouvier Peterson’s National Cook Book (1855, 167) provides instructions on how this was accomplished. The result was called a “cake” in the parlance of the times, being a cupcake in shape, but more like an English muffin in texture.
Parsnip Cake Boil your parsnips till perfectly soft; pass them through a colander. To one tea cupful of mashed parsnip add one quart of warm milk, with a quarter of a pound of butter dissolved in it, a little salt, and one gill of yeast, with flour enough to make a thick batter. Set it away to rise, which will require several hours, when light stir in as much flour as will make a dough, knead it well and let it rise again. Make it out in cakes about a quarter or half an inch thick, butter your tins or pans, put them on and set them to rise. As soon as they are light bake them in a very hot oven. When done wash over the tops with a little water, and send them to the table hot.
The Student Parsnip
Pastinaca sativa
The Vilmorin experiments with the wild Belgian carrot encouraged horticulturists in other countries to look for kitchen garden material in the wild. Professor Buckman of the Royal Agriculture College at Cirencester, England, gathered seed from wild parsnips in the Cotswold hills in 1847. In 1848 he selected plants with certain leaf characteristics, such as fewer hairs, the source of the rash-causing juice. The best of the roots were reserved for seedlings. He repeated this in 1849 and 1850 and continued selecting until 1859, when the variety attained the form we now know as The Student. Buckman sold rights to this new variety to Suttons, the London seed house that first distributed it and gave it its name. Since then. The Student has become a perennial favorite among kitchen gardeners because it produces consistently and of all the parsnip varieties is the least likely to deteriorate.
The salient features of this variety are its short length, never more than 15 inches, and its quickly tapering, wedge-shaped root that is better suited for heavy soils than Hollow Crown.
Please Give Me Some Information on Figs.
Help Lower High Blood Pressure
Figs are a good source of potassium, a mineral that helps to control blood pressure. Since many people not only do not eat enough fruits and vegetables, but do consume high amounts of sodium as salt is frequently added to processed foods, they may be deficient in potassium. Low intake of potassium-rich foods, especially when coupled with a high intake of sodium, can lead to hypertension. In the Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension (DASH) study, one group ate servings of fruits and vegetables in place of snacks and sweets, and also ate low-fat dairy food. This diet delivered more potassium, magnesium and calcium. Another group ate a "usual" diet low in fruits and vegetables with a fat content like that found in the average American Diet. After eight weeks, the group that ate the enhanced diet lowered their blood pressure by an average of 5.5 points (systolic) over 3.0 points (diastolic).
A Sweet Way to Lose Weight
Figs are a good source of dietary fiber. Fiber and fiber-rich foods may have a positive effect on weight management. In one study, women who increased their fiber intake with supplements significantly decreased their energy intake, yet their hunger and satiety scores did not change. Figs, like other high fiber foods, may be helpful in a weight management program.
Fruit and Cereal Fiber Protective against Postmenopausal Breast Cancer
Results of a prospective study involving 51,823 postmenopausal women for an average of 8.3 years showed a 34% reduction in breast cancer risk for those consuming the most fruit fiber compared to those consuming the least. In addition, in the subgroup of women who had ever used hormone replacement, those consuming the most fiber, especially cereal fiber, had a 50% reduction in their risk of breast cancer compared to those consuming the least.
Fruits richest in fiber include apples, dates, figs, pears and prunes. When choosing a high fiber cereal, look for whole grain cereals as they supply the most bran (a mere 1/3rd cup of bran contains about 14 grams of fiber).
An Insulin-Lowering Leaf in Diabetes
You probably do not think about the leaves of the fig tree as one of fig's edible parts. But in some cultures, fig leaves are a common part of the menu, and for good reason. The leaves of the fig have repeatedly been shown to have antidiabetic properties and can actually reduce the amount of insulin needed by persons with diabetes who require insulin injections. In one study, a liquid extract made from fig leaves was simply added to the breakfast of insulin-dependent diabetic subjects in order to produce this insulin-lowering effect.
Bone Density Promoter
Figs are a fruit source of calcium (79 milligrams in an 8 oz-wt serving), a mineral that has many functions including promoting bone density. Additionally, figs' potassium may also counteract the increased urinary calcium loss caused by the high-salt diets typical of most Americans, thus helping to further prevent bones from thinning out at a fast rate.
Cardiovascular Effects
In animal studies, fig leaves have been shown to lower levels of triglycerides (a form in which fats circulate in the bloodstream), while in in vitro studies, fig leaves inhibited the growth of certain types of cancer cells. Researchers have not yet determined exactly which substances in fig leaves are responsible for these remarkable healing effects.
Besides their potassium and fiber content, figs emerged from our food ranking system as a good source of the trace mineral manganese.
Protection against Macular Degeneration
Your mother may have told you carrots would keep your eyes bright as a child, but as an adult, it looks like fruit is even more important for keeping your sight. Data reported in a study published in the Archives of Ophthalmology indicates that eating 3 or more servings of fruit per day may lower your risk of age-related macular degeneration (ARMD), the primary cause of vision loss in older adults, by 36%, compared to persons who consume less than 1.5 servings of fruit daily.
In this study, which involved over 100,00 women and men, researchers evaluated the effect of study participants' consumption of fruits; vegetables; the antioxidant vitamins A, C, and E; and carotenoids on the development of early ARMD or neovascular ARMD, a more severe form of the illness associated with vision loss. Food intake information was collected periodically for up to 18 years for women and 12 years for men.
While, surprisingly, intakes of vegetables, antioxidant vitamins and carotenoids were not strongly related to incidence of either form of ARMD, fruit intake was definitely protective against the severe form of this vision-destroying disease. Three servings of fruit may sound like a lot to eat each day, but by simply tossing a banana into your morning smoothie or slicing it over your cereal, topping off a cup of yogurt or green salad with a couple of diced figs, and snacking on an apple, plum, nectarine or pear, you've reached this goal.
Description
Figs are not only the main ingredient in a very popular cookie, the fig bar, but are a culinary delicacy par excellence. Part of the wonder of the fig comes from its unique taste and texture. Figs are lusciously sweet and feature a complex texture that combines the chewiness of their flesh, the smoothness of their skin, and the crunchiness of their seeds. In addition, since fresh figs are so delicate and perishable, some of their mystique comes from their relative rarity. Because of this, the majority of figs are dried, either by exposure to sunlight or through an artificial process, creating a sweet and nutritious dried fruit that can be enjoyed throughout the year.
Figs grow on the Ficus tree (Ficus carica), which is a member of the Mulberry family. They are unique in that they have an opening, called the "ostiole" or "eye," which is not connected to the tree, but which helps the fruit's development, aiding it in communication with the environment.
Figs range dramatically in color and subtly in texture depending upon the variety, of which there are more than one hundred and fifty. Some of the most popular varieties are:
History
Figs can trace their history back to the earliest of times with mentions in the Bible and other ancient writings. They are thought to have been first cultivated in Egypt. They spread to ancient Crete and then subsequently, around the 9th century BC, to ancient Greece, where they became a staple foodstuff in the traditional diet. Figs were held in such esteem by the Greeks that they created laws forbidding the export of the best quality figs. Figs were also revered in ancient Rome where they were thought of as a sacred fruit. According to Roman myth, the wolf that nurtured the twin founders of Rome, Romulus and Remus, rested under a fig tree. During this period of history, at least 29 varieties of figs were already known.
Figs were later introduced to other regions of the Mediterranean by ancient conquerors and then brought to the Western Hemisphere by the Spaniards in the early 16th century. In the late 19th century, when Spanish missionaries established the mission in San Diego, California, they also planted fig trees. These figs turned out to be inferior in quality to those that were imported from Europe, and it wasn't until the development of further cultivation techniques in the early 20th century that California began focused cultivation and processing of figs. Today, California remains one of the largest producers of figs in addition to Turkey, Greece, Portugal and Spain.
How to Select and Store
Since fresh figs are one of the most perishable fruits, they should be purchased only a day or two in advance of when you are planning on eating them. Look for figs that have a rich, deep color and are plump and tender, but not mushy. They should have firm stems and be free of bruises. Smelling figs can also give you clues into their freshness and taste. They should have a mildly sweet fragrance and should not smell sour, which is an indication that they may be spoiled.
For the most antioxidants, choose fully ripened figs:
Research conducted at the University of Innsbruck in Austria suggests that as fruits fully ripen, almost to the point of spoilage, their antioxidant levels actually increase.
Key to the process is the change in color that occurs as fruits ripen, a similar process to that seen in the fall when leaves turn from green to red to yellow to brown—a color change caused by the breakdown and disappearance of chlorophyll, which gives leaves and fruits their green color.
Until now, no one really knew what happened to chlorophyll during this process, but lead researcher, Bernard Krä utler, and his team, working together with botanists over the past several years, has identified the first decomposition products in leaves: colorless, polar NCCs (nonfluorescing chlorophyll catabolytes), that contain four pyrrole rings—like chlorophyll and heme.
After examining apples and pears, the scientists discovered that NCCs replace the chlorophyll not only in the leaves of fruit trees, but in their very ripe fruits, especially in the peel and flesh immediately below it.
"When chlorophyll is released from its protein complexes in the decomposition process, it has a phototoxic effect: when irradiated with light, it absorbs energy and can transfer it to other substances. For example, it can transform oxygen into a highly reactive, destructive form," report the researchers. However, NCCs have just the opposite effect. Extremely powerful antioxidants, they play an important protective role for the plant, and when consumed as part of the human diet, NCCs deliver the same potent antioxidant protection within our bodies.
California figs are available from June through September with the exact timing varying with the variety. Some European figs are often available throughout autumn. When purchasing dried figs, make sure that they are still relatively soft, free of mold, and have a mellow, pleasant smell. Dried figs are available throughout the year.
Ripe figs should be kept in the refrigerator where they will stay fresh for about two days. Since they have a delicate nature and can easily bruise, you should store them either arranged on a paper towel-lined plate or shallow container. They should be covered or wrapped in order to ensure that they do not dry out, get crushed or pick up odors from neighboring foods. If you have purchased slightly under-ripe figs, you should keep them on a plate, at room temperature, away from direct sunlight. Dried figs will stay fresh for several months and can either be kept in a cool, dark place or stored in the refrigerator. They should be well wrapped so that they are not over exposed to air that may cause them to become hard or dry.
Tips for Preparing and Cooking Tips for Preparing Figs
Before eating or cooking figs, wash them under cool water and then gently remove the stem. Gently wipe dry.
Dried figs can simply be eaten, used in a recipe as is, or simmered for several minutes in water or fruit juice to make them plumper and juicier.
When preparing oatmeal or any other whole grain breakfast porridge, add some dried or fresh figs.
Poach figs in juice or red wine and serve with yogurt or frozen desserts.
Add quartered figs to a salad of fennel, arugula and shaved Parmesan cheese.
Fresh figs stuffed with goat cheese and chopped almonds can be served as hors d'oeuvres or desserts.
Individual Concerns Figs and Oxalates
Figs are among a small number of foods that contain measurable amounts of oxalates, naturally-occurring substances found in plants, animals, and human beings. When oxalates become too concentrated in body fluids, they can crystallize and cause health problems. For this reason, individuals with already existing and untreated kidney or gallbladder problems may want to avoid eating figs.
Laboratory studies have shown that oxalates may also interfere with absorption of calcium from the body. Yet, in every peer-reviewed research study we've seen, the ability of oxalates to lower calcium absorption is relatively small and definitely does not outweigh the ability of oxalate-containing foods to contribute calcium to the meal plan. If your digestive tract is healthy, and you do a good job of chewing and relaxing while you enjoy your meals, you will get significant benefits—including absorption of calcium—from calcium-rich foods plant foods that also contain oxalic acid. Ordinarily, a healthcare practitioner would not discourage a person focused on ensuring that they are meeting their calcium requirements from eating these nutrient-rich foods because of their oxalate content.
Dried Figs and Sulfites Commercially grown dried figs may be treated with sulfur dioxide gas during processing. They may also be treated with sulfites to extend their shelf life.
Sulfur-containing compounds are often added to dried foods like figs as preservatives to help prevent oxidation and bleaching of colors. The sulfites used to help preserve dried figs cause adverse reactions in an estimated one out of every 100 people, who turn out to be sulfite sensitive.
Sulfite reactions can be particularly acute in people who suffer from asthma. The Federal Food and Drug Administration estimates that 5 percent of asthmatics may suffer a reaction when exposed to sulfites.
Foods that are classified as "organic" do not contain sulfites since federal regulations prohibit the use of these preservatives in organically grown or produced foods. Therefore, concern about sulfite exposure is yet another reason to purchase organic foods.
Figs are a good source of dietary fiber, potassium, vitamin B6, and manganese.
Figs are a good source of potassium, a mineral that helps to control blood pressure. Since many people not only do not eat enough fruits and vegetables, but do consume high amounts of sodium as salt is frequently added to processed foods, they may be deficient in potassium. Low intake of potassium-rich foods, especially when coupled with a high intake of sodium, can lead to hypertension. In the Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension (DASH) study, one group ate servings of fruits and vegetables in place of snacks and sweets, and also ate low-fat dairy food. This diet delivered more potassium, magnesium and calcium. Another group ate a "usual" diet low in fruits and vegetables with a fat content like that found in the average American Diet. After eight weeks, the group that ate the enhanced diet lowered their blood pressure by an average of 5.5 points (systolic) over 3.0 points (diastolic).
A Sweet Way to Lose Weight
Figs are a good source of dietary fiber. Fiber and fiber-rich foods may have a positive effect on weight management. In one study, women who increased their fiber intake with supplements significantly decreased their energy intake, yet their hunger and satiety scores did not change. Figs, like other high fiber foods, may be helpful in a weight management program.
Fruit and Cereal Fiber Protective against Postmenopausal Breast Cancer
Results of a prospective study involving 51,823 postmenopausal women for an average of 8.3 years showed a 34% reduction in breast cancer risk for those consuming the most fruit fiber compared to those consuming the least. In addition, in the subgroup of women who had ever used hormone replacement, those consuming the most fiber, especially cereal fiber, had a 50% reduction in their risk of breast cancer compared to those consuming the least.
Fruits richest in fiber include apples, dates, figs, pears and prunes. When choosing a high fiber cereal, look for whole grain cereals as they supply the most bran (a mere 1/3rd cup of bran contains about 14 grams of fiber).
An Insulin-Lowering Leaf in Diabetes
You probably do not think about the leaves of the fig tree as one of fig's edible parts. But in some cultures, fig leaves are a common part of the menu, and for good reason. The leaves of the fig have repeatedly been shown to have antidiabetic properties and can actually reduce the amount of insulin needed by persons with diabetes who require insulin injections. In one study, a liquid extract made from fig leaves was simply added to the breakfast of insulin-dependent diabetic subjects in order to produce this insulin-lowering effect.
Bone Density Promoter
Figs are a fruit source of calcium (79 milligrams in an 8 oz-wt serving), a mineral that has many functions including promoting bone density. Additionally, figs' potassium may also counteract the increased urinary calcium loss caused by the high-salt diets typical of most Americans, thus helping to further prevent bones from thinning out at a fast rate.
Cardiovascular Effects
In animal studies, fig leaves have been shown to lower levels of triglycerides (a form in which fats circulate in the bloodstream), while in in vitro studies, fig leaves inhibited the growth of certain types of cancer cells. Researchers have not yet determined exactly which substances in fig leaves are responsible for these remarkable healing effects.
Besides their potassium and fiber content, figs emerged from our food ranking system as a good source of the trace mineral manganese.
Protection against Macular Degeneration
Your mother may have told you carrots would keep your eyes bright as a child, but as an adult, it looks like fruit is even more important for keeping your sight. Data reported in a study published in the Archives of Ophthalmology indicates that eating 3 or more servings of fruit per day may lower your risk of age-related macular degeneration (ARMD), the primary cause of vision loss in older adults, by 36%, compared to persons who consume less than 1.5 servings of fruit daily.
In this study, which involved over 100,00 women and men, researchers evaluated the effect of study participants' consumption of fruits; vegetables; the antioxidant vitamins A, C, and E; and carotenoids on the development of early ARMD or neovascular ARMD, a more severe form of the illness associated with vision loss. Food intake information was collected periodically for up to 18 years for women and 12 years for men.
While, surprisingly, intakes of vegetables, antioxidant vitamins and carotenoids were not strongly related to incidence of either form of ARMD, fruit intake was definitely protective against the severe form of this vision-destroying disease. Three servings of fruit may sound like a lot to eat each day, but by simply tossing a banana into your morning smoothie or slicing it over your cereal, topping off a cup of yogurt or green salad with a couple of diced figs, and snacking on an apple, plum, nectarine or pear, you've reached this goal.
Description
Figs are not only the main ingredient in a very popular cookie, the fig bar, but are a culinary delicacy par excellence. Part of the wonder of the fig comes from its unique taste and texture. Figs are lusciously sweet and feature a complex texture that combines the chewiness of their flesh, the smoothness of their skin, and the crunchiness of their seeds. In addition, since fresh figs are so delicate and perishable, some of their mystique comes from their relative rarity. Because of this, the majority of figs are dried, either by exposure to sunlight or through an artificial process, creating a sweet and nutritious dried fruit that can be enjoyed throughout the year.
Figs grow on the Ficus tree (Ficus carica), which is a member of the Mulberry family. They are unique in that they have an opening, called the "ostiole" or "eye," which is not connected to the tree, but which helps the fruit's development, aiding it in communication with the environment.
Figs range dramatically in color and subtly in texture depending upon the variety, of which there are more than one hundred and fifty. Some of the most popular varieties are:
- Black Mission: blackish-purple skin and pink colored flesh
- Kadota: green skin and purplish flesh
- Calimyrna: greenish-yellow skin and amber flesh
- Brown Turkey: purple skin and red flesh
- Adriatic: the variety most often used to make fig bars, which has a light green skin and pink-tan flesh
History
Figs can trace their history back to the earliest of times with mentions in the Bible and other ancient writings. They are thought to have been first cultivated in Egypt. They spread to ancient Crete and then subsequently, around the 9th century BC, to ancient Greece, where they became a staple foodstuff in the traditional diet. Figs were held in such esteem by the Greeks that they created laws forbidding the export of the best quality figs. Figs were also revered in ancient Rome where they were thought of as a sacred fruit. According to Roman myth, the wolf that nurtured the twin founders of Rome, Romulus and Remus, rested under a fig tree. During this period of history, at least 29 varieties of figs were already known.
Figs were later introduced to other regions of the Mediterranean by ancient conquerors and then brought to the Western Hemisphere by the Spaniards in the early 16th century. In the late 19th century, when Spanish missionaries established the mission in San Diego, California, they also planted fig trees. These figs turned out to be inferior in quality to those that were imported from Europe, and it wasn't until the development of further cultivation techniques in the early 20th century that California began focused cultivation and processing of figs. Today, California remains one of the largest producers of figs in addition to Turkey, Greece, Portugal and Spain.
How to Select and Store
Since fresh figs are one of the most perishable fruits, they should be purchased only a day or two in advance of when you are planning on eating them. Look for figs that have a rich, deep color and are plump and tender, but not mushy. They should have firm stems and be free of bruises. Smelling figs can also give you clues into their freshness and taste. They should have a mildly sweet fragrance and should not smell sour, which is an indication that they may be spoiled.
For the most antioxidants, choose fully ripened figs:
Research conducted at the University of Innsbruck in Austria suggests that as fruits fully ripen, almost to the point of spoilage, their antioxidant levels actually increase.
Key to the process is the change in color that occurs as fruits ripen, a similar process to that seen in the fall when leaves turn from green to red to yellow to brown—a color change caused by the breakdown and disappearance of chlorophyll, which gives leaves and fruits their green color.
Until now, no one really knew what happened to chlorophyll during this process, but lead researcher, Bernard Krä utler, and his team, working together with botanists over the past several years, has identified the first decomposition products in leaves: colorless, polar NCCs (nonfluorescing chlorophyll catabolytes), that contain four pyrrole rings—like chlorophyll and heme.
After examining apples and pears, the scientists discovered that NCCs replace the chlorophyll not only in the leaves of fruit trees, but in their very ripe fruits, especially in the peel and flesh immediately below it.
"When chlorophyll is released from its protein complexes in the decomposition process, it has a phototoxic effect: when irradiated with light, it absorbs energy and can transfer it to other substances. For example, it can transform oxygen into a highly reactive, destructive form," report the researchers. However, NCCs have just the opposite effect. Extremely powerful antioxidants, they play an important protective role for the plant, and when consumed as part of the human diet, NCCs deliver the same potent antioxidant protection within our bodies.
California figs are available from June through September with the exact timing varying with the variety. Some European figs are often available throughout autumn. When purchasing dried figs, make sure that they are still relatively soft, free of mold, and have a mellow, pleasant smell. Dried figs are available throughout the year.
Ripe figs should be kept in the refrigerator where they will stay fresh for about two days. Since they have a delicate nature and can easily bruise, you should store them either arranged on a paper towel-lined plate or shallow container. They should be covered or wrapped in order to ensure that they do not dry out, get crushed or pick up odors from neighboring foods. If you have purchased slightly under-ripe figs, you should keep them on a plate, at room temperature, away from direct sunlight. Dried figs will stay fresh for several months and can either be kept in a cool, dark place or stored in the refrigerator. They should be well wrapped so that they are not over exposed to air that may cause them to become hard or dry.
Tips for Preparing and Cooking Tips for Preparing Figs
Before eating or cooking figs, wash them under cool water and then gently remove the stem. Gently wipe dry.
Dried figs can simply be eaten, used in a recipe as is, or simmered for several minutes in water or fruit juice to make them plumper and juicier.
When preparing oatmeal or any other whole grain breakfast porridge, add some dried or fresh figs.
Poach figs in juice or red wine and serve with yogurt or frozen desserts.
Add quartered figs to a salad of fennel, arugula and shaved Parmesan cheese.
Fresh figs stuffed with goat cheese and chopped almonds can be served as hors d'oeuvres or desserts.
Individual Concerns Figs and Oxalates
Figs are among a small number of foods that contain measurable amounts of oxalates, naturally-occurring substances found in plants, animals, and human beings. When oxalates become too concentrated in body fluids, they can crystallize and cause health problems. For this reason, individuals with already existing and untreated kidney or gallbladder problems may want to avoid eating figs.
Laboratory studies have shown that oxalates may also interfere with absorption of calcium from the body. Yet, in every peer-reviewed research study we've seen, the ability of oxalates to lower calcium absorption is relatively small and definitely does not outweigh the ability of oxalate-containing foods to contribute calcium to the meal plan. If your digestive tract is healthy, and you do a good job of chewing and relaxing while you enjoy your meals, you will get significant benefits—including absorption of calcium—from calcium-rich foods plant foods that also contain oxalic acid. Ordinarily, a healthcare practitioner would not discourage a person focused on ensuring that they are meeting their calcium requirements from eating these nutrient-rich foods because of their oxalate content.
Dried Figs and Sulfites Commercially grown dried figs may be treated with sulfur dioxide gas during processing. They may also be treated with sulfites to extend their shelf life.
Sulfur-containing compounds are often added to dried foods like figs as preservatives to help prevent oxidation and bleaching of colors. The sulfites used to help preserve dried figs cause adverse reactions in an estimated one out of every 100 people, who turn out to be sulfite sensitive.
Sulfite reactions can be particularly acute in people who suffer from asthma. The Federal Food and Drug Administration estimates that 5 percent of asthmatics may suffer a reaction when exposed to sulfites.
Foods that are classified as "organic" do not contain sulfites since federal regulations prohibit the use of these preservatives in organically grown or produced foods. Therefore, concern about sulfite exposure is yet another reason to purchase organic foods.
Figs are a good source of dietary fiber, potassium, vitamin B6, and manganese.
Is It True That One of the Ingredients in Tamiflu Can Be Taken from the Sweet Gum Tree?
Yes!!
The Sweet Gum tree is the sand spur of the forest. You painfully find them with your feet. The vicious seed pods have impaled many a forager and has done much to ruin the Sweet Gum’s reputation. Perhaps it is time for some rehabilitation.
The only edible part of the tree is the dried sap which makes a fragrant, bitter chewing gum. Despite its name the gum is not sweet. It’s called Sweet Gum to separate it from a different species altogether, the Black Gum, Nyssa sylvatica, which is extremely sour and bitter. In comparison the mildly bitter Sweet Gum is definitely sweeter. Dr. Francois Couplan in his book The Encyclopedia of Edible Plants of North America states on page 60 the gum “it has antiseptic qualities.”
Sweet Gum Leaf
That would be the extent of our interest in the Sweet Gum if it were not for influenza. Viruses are little packets of chemicals that can’t reproduce on their own. They have RNA not DNA. So they need something live to reproduce in. Birds, pigs and humans are the preferred hosts. You might be surprised to learn that most strains of the flu start out in birds. It usually jumps from bird to pig and from pigs to people. It can also be found in whales and seals. Sometimes the flu jumps directly from bird to man, resulting in a very strong and often deadly flu. That led to finding special treatments. Among them is Tamiflu.
Crystalization of oseltamivir phosphate, the active ingredient in Tamiflu
Tamiflu, or chemically said, oseltamivir phosphate, is made from the star anise tree, Illicium verum, a native of China. Specifically it is made from the seed pods. The prime ingredient is shikimic acid. (she-KEE-mick) A shortage led folks to look elsewhere for shikimic acid, and they found it: In pine needles, and infertile Sweet Gum seeds. Sweet Gum bark and leaves have some but the highest concentration is in the infertile seeds. The star anise pod is about 7% shikimic acid, the pine needles 3% and the Sweet Gum 1.7% to 3%. Interestingly, Sweet Gum tea was an herbal treatment for the flu and the Cherokee made a tea out of the bark.
Sweet Gum Seeds
First, how do you tell infertile sweet gum seeds? Fertile seeds are black with wings on either side, infertile seeds are yellow and wingless. Now, how does shikimic acid work? To reproduce the virus needs to break out of the cells it is in. A protein makes that possible. Shikimic acid inhibits the protein. The flu doesn’t reproduce which shortening the duration of the infection and thus shortening or lessening the symptoms, which in some cases of the flu is what is deadly. In some flu infections it is your body’s response to the flu that kills you rather than the flu directly. This is why some flus kill the young. They have very strong and immediate immune systems that overwhelm the body while fighting the disease. With some flus older folks have slower immune responses and may have partial immunity from previous infections. As for the exact preparation and dosage, consult an herbalist. It usually involves soaking crushed green Sweet Gum fruits in alcohol to make a red tincture.
Unripe Sweet Gum Fruit
Botanically the Sweet Gum is Liquidambar styraciflua. (lick-wid-AM-bar sty-rass-ih-FLOO-uh.) Liquidus is Dead Latin for liquid. Ambar is Arabic for amber (the color of the dried sap.) Styrax is Dead Latin for gum, fluxus for flowing. Liquidambar styraciflua: Liquid Amber Gum Flowing. Two more tidbits: The sap is still used to add flavor to smoking tobacco and is also available at the pharmacy as an ingredient in the “compound tincture of benzoin.”
The Sweet Gum tree is the sand spur of the forest. You painfully find them with your feet. The vicious seed pods have impaled many a forager and has done much to ruin the Sweet Gum’s reputation. Perhaps it is time for some rehabilitation.
The only edible part of the tree is the dried sap which makes a fragrant, bitter chewing gum. Despite its name the gum is not sweet. It’s called Sweet Gum to separate it from a different species altogether, the Black Gum, Nyssa sylvatica, which is extremely sour and bitter. In comparison the mildly bitter Sweet Gum is definitely sweeter. Dr. Francois Couplan in his book The Encyclopedia of Edible Plants of North America states on page 60 the gum “it has antiseptic qualities.”
Sweet Gum Leaf
That would be the extent of our interest in the Sweet Gum if it were not for influenza. Viruses are little packets of chemicals that can’t reproduce on their own. They have RNA not DNA. So they need something live to reproduce in. Birds, pigs and humans are the preferred hosts. You might be surprised to learn that most strains of the flu start out in birds. It usually jumps from bird to pig and from pigs to people. It can also be found in whales and seals. Sometimes the flu jumps directly from bird to man, resulting in a very strong and often deadly flu. That led to finding special treatments. Among them is Tamiflu.
Crystalization of oseltamivir phosphate, the active ingredient in Tamiflu
Tamiflu, or chemically said, oseltamivir phosphate, is made from the star anise tree, Illicium verum, a native of China. Specifically it is made from the seed pods. The prime ingredient is shikimic acid. (she-KEE-mick) A shortage led folks to look elsewhere for shikimic acid, and they found it: In pine needles, and infertile Sweet Gum seeds. Sweet Gum bark and leaves have some but the highest concentration is in the infertile seeds. The star anise pod is about 7% shikimic acid, the pine needles 3% and the Sweet Gum 1.7% to 3%. Interestingly, Sweet Gum tea was an herbal treatment for the flu and the Cherokee made a tea out of the bark.
Sweet Gum Seeds
First, how do you tell infertile sweet gum seeds? Fertile seeds are black with wings on either side, infertile seeds are yellow and wingless. Now, how does shikimic acid work? To reproduce the virus needs to break out of the cells it is in. A protein makes that possible. Shikimic acid inhibits the protein. The flu doesn’t reproduce which shortening the duration of the infection and thus shortening or lessening the symptoms, which in some cases of the flu is what is deadly. In some flu infections it is your body’s response to the flu that kills you rather than the flu directly. This is why some flus kill the young. They have very strong and immediate immune systems that overwhelm the body while fighting the disease. With some flus older folks have slower immune responses and may have partial immunity from previous infections. As for the exact preparation and dosage, consult an herbalist. It usually involves soaking crushed green Sweet Gum fruits in alcohol to make a red tincture.
Unripe Sweet Gum Fruit
Botanically the Sweet Gum is Liquidambar styraciflua. (lick-wid-AM-bar sty-rass-ih-FLOO-uh.) Liquidus is Dead Latin for liquid. Ambar is Arabic for amber (the color of the dried sap.) Styrax is Dead Latin for gum, fluxus for flowing. Liquidambar styraciflua: Liquid Amber Gum Flowing. Two more tidbits: The sap is still used to add flavor to smoking tobacco and is also available at the pharmacy as an ingredient in the “compound tincture of benzoin.”
Tell Me About Lettuce.
A Brief History of Heirloom Lettuce Varieties
In Greek mythology, the torrid love affair between the goddess Aphrodite and the dazzling youth Adonis ended in a gruesome salad. For after Aphrodite hid Adonis in a bed of lettuce, he was killed there by a wild boar. Adonis’s violent death was therefore connected in the ancient Greek mind with lettuce, which assumed the role of religious and cultural metaphor for “food for corpses” and, more broadly speaking, for male impotence (the core of the Adonis theme). For this reason, Athenaeus, the author/compiler of the classical work The Deipnosophists (the rambling dinner conversations of several learned epicures), devoted an entire chapter of table discussion to lettuce and its ability to render male lovemaking worthless. For the ancient Greeks, perfumes and spices were equated with virility and seduction. Lettuce was the opposite.
In this light it strikes me as curious that eating lettuce as a component of a voluptuous meal would gain favor at all, yet it did. About the time of the emperor Domitian (A.D. 81–96), it became fashionable among the Roman elite to serve a lettuce salad as an appetizer before the first course, a custom that we practice even to this day. Was the lettuce salad intended to act as an antidote to the passions that subsequent courses of meat might inflame? This may have been one of the medical purposes of the original leafy appetizer. Certainly, by the Roman era, lettuce had already reached Italy with fascinating baggage — cultural, medical, intellectual, and religious. Of all the European garden vegetables, its history is one of the most colorful.
Lettuce was first cultivated by the ancient Egyptians, and since it played a role in their religious rituals, they have left ample records in the form of wall paintings and tomb reliefs as to the nature of the lettuce they grew, some of the oldest images dating from as early as 2680 B.C. This was a variety of lettuce about 30 inches tall, like a giant head of romaine lettuce with pointed leaves. The drawing below is based on a tomb relief in the Egyptian Museum in Berlin. The relief shows lettuce in such clear detail that it is possible to recreate its salient botanical features. To me, the lettuce resembles Lion’s Tongue on a much larger scale. In any case, Egypt perfected the cultivation of the tall or upright lettuces now known as cos or romaine, and this cultural knowledge was passed to the Greeks. The Romans in turn acquired lettuce culture from the Greeks, referring to the new plant as lactuca (which means “milk”) in reference to the white juice exuded by the stems. The word lactuca is now used by botanists to represent the genus to which lettuce belongs.
The Roman agriculturist Columella (A.D. 50) mentioned several varieties of lettuce, among them Caecilian (both red and green), Cappadocian, Baetican, and Cyprian. Some of the varieties we know today may descend from these old sorts. Columella and other writers who discussed lettuce were quick to point out the Romans ate lettuce raw only when it was very young; otherwise they cooked it like spinach and served it with an oil and vinegar dressing. The custom of cooking lettuce, or poaching it to be more accurate, was continued in many areas of post-Roman Europe, but in nearly every case, this was done only with the large cos types. Otherwise, the oil and vinegar dressing was poured hot over the lettuce, another serving method practiced by the Romans.
Medieval references to lettuce abound, especially as a medicinal herb. Hildegard of Bingen (1098–1179), the famous practitioner of natural medicine, mentioned lettuce in her medical writings. Likewise, lettuce appeared in many of the earliest published herbals. Joachim Camerarius (1586) was one of the first authors to depict a small cabbaging lettuce of the tennisball type. Furthermore, he mentioned the three basic types of lettuce we know today: heading lettuce, loose-leaf lettuce, and the tall or cos sorts. Tall lettuces were referred to as cos because some of the earliest seed came to Europe from the Greek island of Cos. During the Byzantine period, Cos was a center of lettuce growing. Since this tall lettuce was first grown in papal gardens at Rome, the French called it romaine. In the 1880s market gardeners in the area around San Francisco began calling cos lettuces romaine, and the French name has now spread to the rest of the country. However, in older American garden books all romaine types are referred to as cos, and many old varieties from England, such as Bath Cos, still retain the older terminology.
Between Camerarius and the early eighteenth century, many of the basic heirloom types we know today evolved in France, Italy, and Holland. The Dutch in particular were active in creating many of the old standard varieties, and their influence survives in such varietal names as Brown Dutch and Early Dutch Butterhead. In the early eighteenth-century work called Adam’s Luxury and Eve’s Cookery (1744, 45–47), a number of familiar lettuce varieties were discussed, among them Brown Dutch, Green Capuchin, and Silesia. Brown Dutch is still available through Seed Savers Exchange, and Green Capuchin, with its deep green coarse leaves, is now known as Tennisball (black seed) and is taken up under the sketch on Salamander (page 185). Silesia has also undergone a name change and is now commonly called White-Seeded Simpson or Early Curled Simpson.
Volume 3 of Willich’s Domestic Encyclopaedia (1802, 89–90) enumerated many of the most popular lettuces of the day, names that were familiar to most early American gardeners. Among these were Silesia (one of the most popular), Imperial (still available), Royal Black, and Upright White Cos (the common green romaine lettuce of our supermarkets). Willich also pointed out that both Brown Dutch and Green Capuchin were extremely hardy and could be overwintered under straw, a handy piece of advice that I have put to the test several times and quite successfully. As cold-frame varieties, many of these old heirlooms are excellent. Obtaining seed is often another matter.
Lettuce Seed Lettuce seed is one of the bread-and-butter items of modern seed catalogs. Lettuce is easy to sell because it is easy to grow, and it is perennially popular as a vegetable in even the smallest of garden plots. Lettuce is one of the few vegetables that can be grown just about anywhere, on windowsills and balconies, on roof gardens, in flower pots by the kitchen door. As a result seedsmen have been more unscrupulous with lettuce then with many other vegetables, and this has made it difficult to sort out the histories of some of the most popular heirloom varieties today. In order to keep selling it, seedsmen have changed variety names often. The heirloom lettuce known as Hanson, which is distinct and unmistakable from any other lettuce, has sixteen commercial aliases. The unwitting gardener may buy these from different seedsmen on the presumption that they are distinct varieties, but this is not the case. They are identical, the same seed in different packets.
This practice of creating house aliases for well-known varieties arose in part as a means of deflecting attention from the fact that the seed house was selling a lettuce developed by a competitor. The present attempt to patent hybrids is a commercially motivated response to this sort of bewildering free-market switch-and-run that still takes advantage of the customer. When Salzer’s began selling Silesia (aka Early Curled Simpson) as German Butter Lettuce, sales rose. When word got out that this was the same old Simpson lettuce everyone knew, Salzer’s changed the name to LaCrosse Market Lettuce. This practice was so common among American seed houses that old seed catalogs can be used only with utmost caution when attempting to document heirloom varieties.
Several times in the past horticulturists have tackled the shifting sands of commercial lettuce terminology and, by growing out all the varieties side by side, were able to determine which were valid varieties and which were not. W. H. Bull of Hampden County, Massachusetts, undertook a useful growout for the American Garden in 1890, in particular taking note of the best of the varieties then available. He was thoroughly convinced that Boston Curled, Curled India, Hanson, and Simpson were too old-fashioned and obsolete. It is a commentary on his Victorian progressive-ness that these varieties are not only still with us but far more reliable than many of the highly inbred sorts presently on the market.
The most useful guide to heirloom lettuces, however, is Lester Morse’s Field Notes on Lettuce (1923), which resulted from field tests at the C. C. Morse & Company seed farm in the Santa Clara Valley, near San Francisco. This company was established in 1877 to raise seed for most of the major American seed companies in the country. The Morse field notes therefore form an unbiased overview of what was grown and how it compared side by side in the field. For heirloom lettuces developed before 1900 — my focus in this section of the book — Morse’s insights are valuable, and a careful reading will reveal many discrepancies between heirloom varieties of the past and what we are growing today under the same name. Furthermore, Morse noted that of the 1,100 lettuce varieties he could list by name, only 140 were truly distinct, if slight differences were allowed. In truth, the real number of pre-1900 lettuce varieties is probably about 75, the remainder being subvarieties or variant forms. A survey of lettuce varieties in France, Germany, and Holland in 1866 could confirm only 65 sorts after eliminating the synonyms, and even several of those were questionable.
Not only do American lettuces have large numbers of confusing aliases but foreign lettuces seem to change name every time they cross a border. Cappuccio ubriacona frastagliata (“drunken woman frizzy-headed”), a pink-red fringed Italian lettuce with a name I thoroughly enjoy, is also known as Rossa di Trento, the name of a popular Italian chicory. In France it has a completely different name. Likewise, the laitue lorthois of France is the Trocadero of England and the Big Boston of America. And so it goes. I have tried to provide some of the better-known aliases with all of my selections lest my readers be misled by something they see in a seed catalog.
One of the great difficulties in describing lettuce is that varietal differences are often visual, and it is almost impossible to verbalize subtleties apparent only to the human eye: tones of green, blushes of color, three-dimensional surface textures, details that do not transfer well into line art or color photography. Signe Sundberg-Hall, the artist who has worked closely with me on this book, has made the same observation. The only way to convey many of the features peculiar to lettuce is through the medium of watercolor. It is interesting that in the Album Vilmorin, where the artists could wash the lithographs with color, the lettuces reproduced convey a true sense of their appearance in the garden. In any case, most descriptive works on lettuce fall short in one way or another, no matter how detailed the botanical terminology. Quite simply, lettuces are beautiful, Adonislike, the butterflies of the vegetable garden in terms of their fleeting beauty. They are best studied firsthand.
Nevertheless, lettuce growers use certain basic terms to qualify lettuces by type, terms that imply a certain physical appearance of the lettuce at its peak for harvesting. The first of these terms is curled-heading, which means that the edges of the leaves are curled or crumpled and that the lettuce forms a head or ball when mature. Curled-nonheading is the same leaf type, but the head is loose, forming a bunch like Black-Seeded Simpson. Cabbage or butterhead lettuces all have flat leaves, usually thick, with the interior leaves appearing oily. Early Dutch Butterhead, one of my favorite winter lettuces, has leaves that appear dappled with dark brown wax. It is this waxiness that protects the lettuce during cold weather. Cos is the general trade term for all upright or tall lettuces, the varieties we now call romaine. The last type is called cutting lettuce, which is loose, leafy lettuce cut young for salads, what the Italians call lattuga a cespo da taglio (“cut and cut again”). Cutting lettuces were introduced into England in 1827 and into this country about 1829. The best-known variety of cutting lettuce introduced at that time was laitue épinarde, a name rendered into English as Spanish lettuce. Today, this is known as oak leaf lettuce.
Another way to differentiate lettuce is to categorize it by the color of its seed. Most seed is described as either black or white, although in fact there is gray seed and brown seed. Some brown seed is called yellow in old garden books if the brown is a light shade. I would consider the brown-seeded varieties to be a distinct category halfway between the black-and white-seeded sorts, but this is not universally accepted. Each seed color has produced a line of lettuces that is genetically related; sometimes lettuces have the identical appearance but different color seed. This seed color difference is a true marker for deciding which variety is under discussion. Therefore, in all of my sketches of specific lettuce varieties, I also provide the seed color. The eighteenth-century lettuce called Green Capuchin had black seed; it is not Green Capuchin if the seed is white or some other color.
Seed Saving Saving seed from lettuce is extremely easy on the one hand and messy on the other. First, the lettuce must be allowed to bolt or produce flower heads. Seed should only be saved from lettuces most true to type, and which bolt last. Saving seed from lettuces that are quick to bolt will only produce a strain that runs to seed quickly, especially during hot weather. The flower heads of most lettuces are about 3 feet tall and made up of tiny clusters of yellow blossoms. Seed is ready to harvest when the plants begin to yellow and the flower heads form “feathers” like dandelions. Strip the plants of their leaves and cut off the flower heads, turning them upside down in brown paper bags. Mark and date the bags, then set them in a dry, airy room away from the direct sun. Let the seed mature about a month before removing it from the seedheads.
To do this, roll the dried flowers between the fingers over a large work bowl. Feathers will fly everywhere (this is the messy part). The seed will drop into the bowl along with feathers and debris, which must be separated. Sift off debris larger than the seeds, then winnow the seed out of doors, blowing gently to lift the light materials away from the seed. If this is done carefully, the seed should separate, and the yield will be large. From eight to ten choice lettuces, I have harvested as much as 1/2 cup of seed, enough to sow an entire field. Some varieties have tiny seed or low seed yields, but once the seed-saving technique is mastered, there will be no reason to buy lettuce seed again, except to acquire new varieties.
Lettuces do cross. The controversy among horticulturists is just how far to distance the varieties. Some gardeners space their plants 5 feet. This is risky. I would suggest 20 feet. Furthermore, never save seed from volunteers that come up in the garden. Volunteers are an inevitable byproduct of seed saving, and some old varieties like Stoke, an English lettuce dating from pre-1840, are also self-sowing. In either case, do not save seed from plants that come up on their own. Their seed purity is questionable, and since lettuces are notorious for throwing sports and reversions to ancestral types, volunteers are only interesting if they look like a promising new variety worth cultivating as an experiment. Many heirloom varieties came into being in this very manner — Hanson was the product of a cross that occurred in a kitchen garden in Maryland. It is also necessary to remove any wild lettuce that is growing in the vicinity of the garden. Wild lettuce (Lactuca serriola) is found throughout the United States and will cross with garden lettuce under certain circumstances. The resulting cross will be tough and bitter. Likewise, Celtuce or Asparagus Lettuce should be isolated from other lettuces because it belongs to the same species, and while it is of Asian origin, there is a possibility it will cross with the leafing sorts. Again, 20 feet is a safe distance. Seed is saved from it in the same manner as other lettuces. All lettuce seed will store for three years under optimal conditions. If seed accumulates, share it with friends. Renew the supply often.
Planting Lettuce When planting lettuce, it is a huge mistake to follow the instructions on seed packets that advise planting it thickly in a row and then thinning. This is a great way to waste seed and end up with crowded lettuces. Only the cutting lettuces can be planted this way successfully; the others should be started in flats, then thinned into large flats. When the seedlings are large enough to plant in the garden — after the fifth or sixth leaf — space them evenly about 8 inches apart or more, depending on the variety. I space some of the large heading lettuces 14 inches apart. That way, they have plenty of room and will form huge, perfectly shaped heads. Lettuce that is crowded together attracts slugs and may be subject to stem rot at the base. Lettuce needs air circulation like any other plant. Furthermore, the more sunlight that strikes the leaves, the better the color and the higher the concentration of nutrients. The blanched white centers of lettuces like Iceberg contain very little food value.
Heirloom Lettuce Varieties In 1930 the U.S. Department of Agriculture reissued Farmer’s Bulletin 1609, Lettuce Growing, and listed the leading varieties of lettuce then under cultivation. Among the commercial varieties grown on a large scale, there were only six: Big Boston, Hanson, Iceberg, May King, New York, and Salamander. All of these are heirlooms — American garden classics in their own way — and I have included lettuces of this type in my profiles.
Bath Cos Lettuce
Lactuca sativa var. romana
There are two types of this eighteenth-century English variety, one white-seeded, the other black-seeded. The white-seeded variety is generally called Brown Cos. Its leaves are cool gray-green, deeply toothed, and tinged with red in the edges and veins as well as the stems. The leaves do not wrap tightly into a head except at the very center. The leaves turn pale brown where tinged by the sun, but this variety is normally tied up to blanch it a few days before harvesting. A well-formed head is about 14 inches in diameter. Plants should be well spaced in the garden to account for this. Normally, this variety is planted in the late summer to be ready for harvest in the fall. It is very hardy and will overwinter in parts of the South.
The black-seeded variant, called Black-Seeded Bath Cos, is smaller and dark reddish brown. It is also raised as a fall lettuce and is known in England as Coolings Leviathan. The leaves of this sort overlap differently from the other, somewhat like a rosebud that is opening partway. It also squatter and slower growing.
Another old cos lettuce from the same period is the Spotted Cos or Aleppo (white-seeded), mentioned as early as the seventeenth century. This is a shorter type of romaine lettuce with large, floppy leaves of a bright green color. The leaf surface is savoyed (covered with bubbles) and heavily speckled with reddish brown spots. It measures about 16 inches in diameter and is considered the tall form of the French Laitue Sanguine (white-seeded).
Big Boston or Trocadero Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
This white-seeded variety was introduced in this country in 1887 from France. It was first sold commercially in 1890 by Peter Henderson & Company of New York, and since Mr. Henderson thought it looked like Boston Market, only much larger, he created the American name Big Boston. Today it is widely circulated under Hendersons name and under its original French name, Laitue Lorthois.
The lettuce is a heading type, medium large in size, and globular when well formed. The leaves are a light green color, tinged with brown on the margins of the outer leaves. The leaves are smooth with a bright sheen, very brittle and quite tender, good qualities for salads. The inner part of the head is golden yellow.
Other commercial aliases of this lettuce are Tait’s Forcing White, Giant White Forcing, Tait’s Pride of the Point (Tait got tired of the first name), Schisler’s New Market, Stokes Standard, and Standard Head Lettuce.
Black-Seeded Simpson Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
One of the most famous of all American lettuces, this variety was introduced by Peter Henderson & Company of New York in the 1870s. It is a nonheading type, very crisp and light yellowish green with large leaves. Of all the lettuces listed here, this is the most difficult to keep true when saving seed. Also, in spite of its popularity with kitchen gardeners, it rots easily at the base of the stem and is sensitive to radical weather changes. This is counterbalanced by its quick growth and fine quality at maturity. Bon Ton is a selection of Black-Seeded Simpson, identical in all respects except small size.
Commercial aliases include: First Early (Great Northern Seed Company), Earliest Cutting (Landreth), Carter’s Long Stander, and Longstreath’s Earliest.
Boston Market Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
This is the same as White-Seeded Tennisball. Refer to my discussion of tennisball lettuces under Loos Tennisball. Many grocers in this country call this variety Boston lettuce as though it is a generic type, a practice that is somewhat misleading. Vilmorin (1885, 307) considered it nearly the same as a Dutch variety called Seelander Latouw, a possibility in physical appearance only, for the Dutch sort has black seed, not white.
Brauner Trotzkopf Lettuce
Lactuca sativa This is a distinct American variety also called Hardhead and Weber’s Brown Head. The seed is white. Its exact origin is not presently known, but David Landreth & Sons listed it in the firm’s 1875 German-language seed catalog. It is considered a German-American variety, a cabbaging or butterhead type similar in size to Tom Thumb, measuring 6 to 7 inches in diameter. It appears to be a dwarf version of Large Brown Winter lettuce. Large Brown Winter (white seed) was known to Fearing Burr, but not this form of it. Vilmorin (1885, 295) called it Early Cabbage or Dutch Butterhead. The leaves are crimped and dappled with red brown, which darkens to maroon toward the center. The surface of the leaves is shiny, as though waxed. The leaves have greenish white edges and ribs. It is a very handsome lettuce when mixed with Tom Thumb, and because it is a winter variety, it thrives in cold frames. It is also extremely slow to bolt.
Brown Dutch Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
The standard variety is black-seeded, nonheading, medium in size, and handsome deep lime green, tinged with bluish green in the center. It is described by the Abbé Rozier (1785, 215) under the name Laitue brune de Hollande. The leaves are large and floppy, with ruffled edges tinged with pink or rose, and tend to lie flat against the ground in heads measuring about 12 inches across. The back side of the leaf has small hairlike spines on the rib. Brown Dutch (white-seeded) is identical in appearance but as a documented variety is much older, for it is mentioned by Stephen Switzer (1731, 21) and other early horticultural authors. The white-seeded sort is often called Sugar Lettuce or Swede in old garden books. It was one of the most popular fall and winter lettuces in colonial America. Spotted Brown Dutch (black-seeded) is the same as the old variety known as Palatine, Brown Genoa, and Haarlem. It dates from the seventeenth century.
Celtuce or Asparagus Lettuce
Lactuca sativa var. asparagina
The accepted history of this useful and distinctive Asian variety is that it was introduced into France in the 1880s but did not reach the United States until 1938. W. Atlee Burpee is credited with commercializing it here in 1942. Quite the contrary, Celtuce came to the attention of American horticulturists in the 1850s and was grown by a small circle of specialists since that time. It was introduced to them by the Mennonite plant collector Jacob B. Garber (1800–1886) of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Garber also figured out that it was the stem of the plant that was eaten, not the leaves, even though the leaves make a perfectly respectable salad.
Under the heading “Hoo Sung” (today written as woh sun), Garber published an article about his experience with celtuce in the Florist and Horticultural Journal (1854, 248). According to Garber’s own account, he had raised the vegetable for a number of years from seed originally obtained from a Dr. Kennicott in Illinois. Dr. Kennicott might rightly be called the introducer of Celtuce, because it was he who brought seed from China in the 1840s. But it was Jacob Garber who discovered how to use it: “The stems being very tender, and when from a quarter to half an inch in diameter, and eighteen inches to two feet high, may be cut into lengths and cooked in the same manner as asparagus”.
Celtuce is raised like lettuce, but because it is a large, spreading plant, it should be spaced about 16 inches apart. The young leaves may be harvested as greens, but when the plant bolts to produce flowers, it is the stem that is considered the best part. Harvesting the stems, of course, reduces the seed crop, so it is best to set aside several plants for seed purposes. The flowers are yellow like lettuce flowers, and the seed is harvested in the same manner.
There are several distinct varieties of Celtuce, which unfortunately do not have distinguishing names outside of Asia. There are broad-leafed sorts resembling tobacco, speckled varieties, and some types with long, pointed leaves like fingers. Many of these are available through seed-saving networks, but very few American gardeners grow them for their stems. Since Celtuce bears hot weather well, it is often grown as a midseason substitute for salad lettuce.
Curled India Lettuce
Lactuca sativa var. capitata
There is a great deal of confusion about this early American lettuce with brown seeds. In garden literature, it is often treated as though it is Curled India Head lettuce, which it is not, since this is an old alias of Iceberg or Marblehead Mammoth. It is not the same as India either, although it is a form of it. From all appearances, it is a cross between India and Beauregard. It has the crispness and heading quality of Iceberg and the sharply toothed leaf margin of Beauregard. White’s Gardening for the South (1868, 243) described Curled India as light yellow-green and highly curled, which is true. Its leaves are blistered and shiny, as though glazed with ice. It is an excellent summer lettuce and far superior in quality to Iceberg. Its smaller size makes it ideal for kitchen gardens where space may present a problem.
Gotte Jaune d’Or Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Since this variety is now widely circulated under its French name, I have listed it that way, but it is a well known tennisball type identified in old garden books as White-Seeded Tennisball, Golden Tennisball, and Golden Forcing. As might be ascertained from the name, this lettuce was once popular as a cold-frame sort as well as a hothouse variety. The Abbé Rozier (1785, 216) remarked that it was grown extensively between November and February as a forcing lettuce in the north of France but was completely unknown in the south of that country. Due to its small size, it is extremely easy to grow in flats and for this reason was used like Tom Thumb. The heads measure no more than 8 inches in diameter. Even though this is a tennisball type and technically should form a head about that size, the head of this lettuce is loose, more twisted than curled, with a “cowlick” in the center. The leaves are tender, bright yellow-green, and crinkled. Right before the lettuce bolts, it forms a tight head like a cabbage, which lasts only a day or two. This is considered its peak stage for harvesting. Fearing Burr does not mention this variety in his Field and Garden Vegetables of America, but the Vilmorins recognized it in the 1880s. It is believed to be a Dutch variety developed for hot salads. It was introduced in this country by Peter Henderson & Company of New York. It is a poor producer of seed, so more plants (at least eight to twelve) are required for seed-saving purposes.
Hanson Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Remarks about this lettuce in the Vilmorin garden book (1885) clearly indicate that the French were not getting pure seed. Even today lettuces sold under the name of Hanson will vary greatly. This variety was introduced in 1871 by Henry A. Dreer of Philadelphia, and I have chosen to show one of Dreer’s original advertisements, since it illustrates Hanson at its best. Any lettuce sold as Hanson that does not form a head as shown is not Hanson. Dreer obtained the lettuce from a Colonel Hanson in Maryland, who stated that it had been growing in his family’s garden for many years and that his grandfather had imported it from abroad. More likely Hanson is a cross between Curled India and Early Curled Simpson, since it bears characteristics of both. Hanson is white-seeded, light green in color, with curly leaves that are fringed on the edges. As can be seen from the old wood engraving, it is a heading lettuce, extremely crisp and excellent in sandwiches. It withstands the heat well but is often subject to slug damage.
There are several commercial aliases for this variety. The most commonly appearing names are Ewing’s Excelsior, Gardener’s Favorite, King of the Market, Los Angeles Market, Louisville Market Forcing Lettuce, Ryder’s Green Globe, Toronto Gem, Toronto Market, and Nonpareil.
Hubbard’s Market Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
This old and popular white-seeded variety was developed in Chatauqua County, New York, by a market gardener whose name was given to the variety when it was released by Chase Brothers of Rochester. It is a cabbaging or butterhead lettuce with dark green crumpled leaves. The edges of the leaves are straight. It is now often sold as White Summer Cabbage, although the original Hubbard strain was darker green and larger in size than the old variety known as White Summer Cabbage. It is an excellent lettuce for summer, especially in the North. In the South, I would recommend it as a fall lettuce. The seed is white.
Hubbard’s Market has thirty-five commercial aliases, among them All-Year-Around (white seed), Eichling’s Early Market, White-Seeded German, Ullathorne’s Memphis Lettuce, Top Notch, Peer of All, and Hollow-Leaved Butter.
Iceberg Lettuce
Lactuca sativa var. capitata
There is a code of disdain among foodies in this country for the very old American lettuce variety we now call Iceberg. Its association with the worst sorts of American fast foods has been responsible for this, yet homegrown Iceberg is one of our finest and most reliable summer lettuces. Its early American progenitor was Ice (white-seeded), which began appearing in seed lists in the 1820s. The Gardener’s Magazine (1827, 436) announced it as a variety “new” to English growers and identified it as a variety of American origin. Unfortunately, the developer of this lettuce is not presently known, nor are the circumstances surrounding its creation. It was sometimes called India Head or Marblehead Mammoth and often confused with Curled India, which is similar and equally old.
Iceberg is a heading variety of a medium green color. The leaves are wavy and fringed, the margins tinged with brown. It forms a compact head that is white inside; it is usually the head, stripped of its outer leaves, that is seen in the markets. There are many selections of Iceberg sold as distinct varieties. Imperial Valley Iceberg, raised in Southern California, and Mountain Iceberg, grown in Colorado, are regional names for New York, not true Iceberg. New York (white-seeded) was introduced in 1886 by Peter Henderson & Company. In France it was known as chou de Naples blonde, and in England as Neapolitan. It resembles Iceberg in some ways, although the head is flatter, the color much deeper green, and the leaves only slightly curled along the edges. Batavian Red-Fringed lettuce is true Iceberg, but with considerable red coloring.
Loos Tennisball Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
There are three recognized tennisball varieties: white-seeded, black-seeded, and stone. The white-seeded tennisball is one of the oldest cultivated sorts in this country and is generally known by the name Boston Market. In France, it is sold commercially as Victoria, not to be confused with the German Victoria, which is a different variety and known in this country as North Pole (white-seeded). Boston Market was grown as a forcing lettuce in cold frames and hothouses.
Black-seeded tennisball is the same as Salamander. Stone tennisball (black seed) is a distinct English variety similar to Tom Thumb, but darker green, larger, and more savoyed. It is the same as the French Tom Thumb and similar to Stonehead Green (white seed). Loos Tennisball (gray-seeded) is probably a cross of one or more of these types, for it is intermediate between the dwarf character of Tom Thumb and a butterhead. The heads of Loos Tennisball measure about 7 inches in diameter and form loose, soft, fluffy balls. It is an extremely attractive sort introduced about 1853. Since it can be planted close together, it is ideal for small gardens.
The tennisball lettuces that formed small tight heads were often pickled in salt brine in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries for use during the winter. The following recipe is taken from Adam’s Luxury and Eve’s Cookery (1744, 142–43). The expression “unsalt” meant to soak the vegetables in several changes of fresh water to remove the saltiness. Cos lettuces could also be preserved in this manner.
To Keep Lettuce Choose the hardest, take off the large Leaves, and blanch them in Water, and drain them. Then stick them with Gloves, and season them with Pepper. Salt, Vinegar, and Bay leaf. Cover them well, and when you would use them, unsalt them and stew them.
Mignonette Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
There are two variations of this lettuce, a green and a bronze (both with dark brown seed). The green is commonly described as the original variety, but this does not tally with early catalog descriptions or with Lester Morse’s Field Notes on Lettuce (1923). The original introduction was the bronze sort first marketed by Peter Henderson & Company of New York. Prior to introducing it (Henderson also named it), Henderson had distributed seed to a number of horticulturists, so the lettuce appeared almost simultaneously in several catalogs. William Henry Maule of Philadelphia introduced it in 1898, and this is more or less the accepted date of its commercialization. It is now circulated as Mignonette Bronze; the other later subvariety is called Mignonette Green.
Both sorts are curled heading lettuces with highly crumpled leaves. The heads are about 7 inches in diameter, compact, with the outer leaves heavily savoyed. The bronze variety is a brownish color, referred to as “russet-colored” in old catalogs, and tinged with dark green. It is quite distinctive, hardy, and fairly drought resistant. Plants should be spaced 12 inches apart for the best shaped heads. Due to the tightness of the heads, it is often necessary to slit them two or three times so that the seed stalk can form. The green sort is prone to slugs and therefore should not be grown on heavy clay soil.
Oak Leaf Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Vilmorin listed this lettuce under the name laitue épinarde (black-seeded) as early as 1771. The Abbé Rozier (1785, 210) listed two distinct varieties, one with white seed and one with black. Both were well known in France as cutting lettuces, but were not introduced into England until 1827. Cutting lettuces were not popular in the United States until later in the nineteenth century, although some individuals cultivated them from imported seed. Thomas Jefferson raised a cutting variety called Endive-Leaved (laitue chicorée).
The oak leaf sort is a pale green color and forms a rosette some 12 to 24 inches across. The leaves are heavily lobed and undulating. This variety is extremely hardy and can be overwintered in cold frames in the North or in the open in the Deep South.
There were two American varieties of the oak leaf sort, one called Philadelphia Oak Leaf (white-seeded), the other Baltimore Oak Leaf. The Philadelphia variety was developed in the 1840s. It was darker green than the French oak leaf and characterized by a lobe resembling a finger on the end of each leaf. The French lettuce called Cocarde has similar lobing. The Baltimore variety was pale green and more of a cabbaging type, with round, lobed leaves.
Red Besson Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
This is one of the most handsome of all the lettuces I grow and a great favorite of visitors to my garden. It is known in France as Besson rouge or Merveille des Quatre Saisons (black seed — actually a dark black-brown). The lettuce is a cabbaging or butterhead type with heads 12 inches in diameter. The leaves are wine red and savoyed, and they darken as the lettuce matures. The undersides of the leaves are pink, as are the stems. This variety was illustrated in the Album Vilmorin (1882, 33) with extraordinary veracity to color, indeed one of the finest lettuce illustrations of the period. This lettuce was not listed in American catalogs until late in the nineteenth century, usually under the name Continuity. For the best-formed heads, plant individual lettuces 14 inches apart.
Salamander Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Salamander was one of the most popular lettuces of the nineteenth century. It was listed by B. K. Bliss & Sons of New York in 1871 under its British name All-Year-Around. Landreth and several other large seed houses also listed it that way, even though it had been grown in this country for many years as Black-Seeded Tennisball, and in the eighteenth century as Green Capuchin. That earlier name was derived from capucine, the French term for nasturtium or Indian cress (page 326). Correctly speaking, All-Year-Around, the name by which the lettuce is best known today, was a British strain of Black-Seeded Tennisball that headed two weeks earlier; otherwise it was identical. In the United States, the lettuce was widely cultivated on Long Island for the New York market, even though lettucemen always recommended it as a forcing lettuce rather than a field variety. In the field the green is deeper, and the leaves tend toward bitterness if the weather is unseasonably warm.
Salamander is considered a cabbaging variety, as shown in the woodcut. It has thick, savoyed, deep green leaves. The young leaves sometimes have small spines on the outside edges. White-seeded Salamander is a distinctly different variety, synonymous with Hubbard’s Market Lettuce and White Summer Cabbage.
There are over forty-nine commercial aliases for this lettuce, all of which Lester Morse grew side by side in his lettuce trials in California. Some of the better known aliases are Eclipse, Farquhar’s Long Standing, Fearnaught, Bridgeman’s Large Butterhead, Northrup-King’s Market Gardener, Sutton’s Matchless, Sherman’s Newport Head, Tender and True, and XXX Solid Head.
Silesia or Early Curled Simpson Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Dating from the seventeenth century, Early Curled Silesia (white-seeded) is one of the oldest cultivated varieties of nonheading lettuce in this country. It forms a tight bunch of light green crumpled leaves about 12 to 14 inches across. It is quick growing and very hardy. It was also known as Curled German Batavian. Today it is generally called White-Seeded Simpson, a name that came into use in the 1850s when the Simpson strain was introduced; it matured earlier than the older sorts. Due to its hardiness, this lettuce was preferred for overwintering. It can be grown in cold frames or simply covered with straw. Hard freezing does not kill it.
Among the Pennsylvania Dutch, this lettuce was normally planted in the old cucumber beds in August and September in order to have a succession of harvests through December. It was often planted together with Brown Dutch, Landis Winter Lettuce, and Speckled Lettuce.
Speckled Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
This type of lettuce has been grown in this country since the eighteenth century. There were three basic sorts, all rather similar in general appearance, but on close examination, their differences were enough to qualify them as distinct varieties. Today, they are mistakenly treated as one, and it is quite possible that seed switches have unwittingly taken place, which only muddles the issue further.
Willich’s Domestic Encyclopaedia (1802, 3:90) observed that if Brown Dutch and Black-Seeded Tennisball were planted together and allowed to cross, “The future produce of seed will be a new and very excellent kind of this plant, forming extraordinary large heads, the leaves of which are sprinkled with deep red spots, and uncommonly tender.” This appears to be the method by which our early American variety was created.
Amelia Simmons mentioned only one lettuce variety in her American Cookery (1796, 13–14): “The purple spotted leaf is generally the tenderest, and free from bitter.” She was referring to a variety of speckled lettuce referred to in old garden books as Spotted Butter (white seed) or Dutch Speckled Butter, a variety thought to have originated in Holland. It is a cabbaging or butterhead type, light green in color, and tinged with brown. The leaves are speckled with reddish brown, crumpled, and straight edged. It was a favorite hothouse lettuce in Philadelphia during the early nineteenth century, and I can attest to the fact that it thrives in greenhouse conditions. It is even less prone to aphids than many lettuces. This is the same lettuce noted in the Gardener’s Magazine (1837, 13), which stated that seed from France had been distributed some years earlier to members of the London Horticultural Society. Judging from historical evidence, this lettuce was much more popular in America than in England and was grown here much earlier. It was known commercially in this country as Philadelphia Dutch Butter, although David Landreth & Sons sold it as Indispensible. Hornberger’s Dutch Butter was considered the best selection of this speckled sort.
The speckled lettuce of this sketch is a variety preserved among the Mennonites of Ontario, Canada, and accessioned by Seed Savers Exchange in 1983. That seed originated with Urias Martin of Waterloo, Ontario, but is generally thought to have come from Pennsylvania. This is a butterhead cabbaging lettuce with somewhat blistered or savoyed leaves, as shown in the drawing. It fits the description of the commercial variety known as Golden Spotted (white seed), introduced in 1880. The spotting is brownish red, similar to markings on a quail’s egg. It is the same variety as Thorburn’s Orchid. It is not true sanguine ameliore, with which it is often equated.
Sanguine ameliore (white-seeded) is an old French variety often mistaken for the other two. It has a deep reddish brown mottling clustered thickly toward the center of each tongue-shaped leaf. Most significant, the interior of the head is pink; only in this variety is this the case. Sanguine ameliore was introduced in this country in 1906 by C. C. Morse & Company of San Francisco under the commercial name Strawberry Cabbage Lettuce.
Tomhannock Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Introduced by W. Atlee Burpee in 1886, this delightful white-seeded lettuce originated in northern New York State. It is a curled, nonheading type, medium green in color, tinged with reddish brown. The leaves are upright and outwardly spreading, and rolled over along the edge, as shown in the old wood engraving on page 187. Although it was considered a good hot-weather lettuce in the North, it was generally grown as a fall salad lettuce, since it is slow to bolt and, because of its hardiness, will not suffer from light frosts. This variety deserves to be better known.
Tom Thumb (Wheeler’s) Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Tom Thumb (black seed) was introduced by the English firm of H. Wheeler & Sons in 1858, although Ipswich seedsman William Thompson was growing laitue gotte à lente monter (the French name given to Tom Thumb by Vilmorin) as early as 1850. The French variety called Tom Pouce, which is the French counterpart to the English variety, is larger, darker green, and more savoyed than Tom Thumb. It is also the same lettuce as Stone Tennisball. In order to keep all of this straight and not produce confusion (!), the Tom Thumb introduced in 1858 is generally called Wheeler’s Tom Thumb. It was introduced into the United States in 1868 by James J. H. Gregory of Marblehead, Massachusetts, but was never popular in this country.
As its name would imply, this is a dwarf lettuce of the cabbaging or butterhead type with dark green leaves that are heavily crumpled. It heads into a fine little ball. It is easy to grow in hothouses and cold frames and does not require a great deal of space, since the heads measure from 3 to 4 inches in diameter. The lettuce makes an excellent garnish for buffet tables, and since it thrives in cold frames, it can keep the kitchen well supplied with lettuces all winter. Its commercial aliases in this country were Landreth’s Forcing, Holmes’s Forcing, and Early Green Stone (black seed).
White Paris Cos Lettuce
Lactuca sativa var. romana
This white-seeded lettuce is generally planted in the early spring so that it heads before the onset of hot weather. It is the most common of all the romaine types grown in this country and probably one of the most attractive as well. It is an eighteenth-century variety, sold in this country as early as 1802 by Bernard M’Mahon of Philadelphia. M’Mahon sold it under the name White Cos; in France it is known as blonde maraichère.
This variety is characterized by tall, narrow, upwardly pointing leaves with heavy white ribs. The leaves are blunt and rounded on the ends, light green in color, with the inner leaves folding around one another. A well-formed head may weigh anywhere from 5 to 6 pounds. This lettuce is a heavy drinker and will never develop its famous crispness unless it is kept well watered. This is also one of the popular lettuces that was used for stewing, especially if the heads were tied up in the garden and blanched before harvest.
The following recipe is taken from Baron Brisse’s 366 Menus (1886, 32). It surprises me that the baron would cook his lettuce for 2 hours; 30 minutes is quite sufficient. But the process is not boiling, rather sweating, with a very small amount of water. This is the reason for the buttered parchment paper, which prevents the lettuces from sticking to the pan.
Laitues au jus (Stewed Lettuce)
Clean, blanch, and trim your lettuces, tie them in bunches, putting two or three together, simmer for two hours in a saucepan with stock, a bouquet of herbs, chopped onions, salt, and pepper, line the saucepan with buttered paper. When cooked untie the lettuces and serve with their own sauce, which must be reduced and passed through a tammy.
In Greek mythology, the torrid love affair between the goddess Aphrodite and the dazzling youth Adonis ended in a gruesome salad. For after Aphrodite hid Adonis in a bed of lettuce, he was killed there by a wild boar. Adonis’s violent death was therefore connected in the ancient Greek mind with lettuce, which assumed the role of religious and cultural metaphor for “food for corpses” and, more broadly speaking, for male impotence (the core of the Adonis theme). For this reason, Athenaeus, the author/compiler of the classical work The Deipnosophists (the rambling dinner conversations of several learned epicures), devoted an entire chapter of table discussion to lettuce and its ability to render male lovemaking worthless. For the ancient Greeks, perfumes and spices were equated with virility and seduction. Lettuce was the opposite.
In this light it strikes me as curious that eating lettuce as a component of a voluptuous meal would gain favor at all, yet it did. About the time of the emperor Domitian (A.D. 81–96), it became fashionable among the Roman elite to serve a lettuce salad as an appetizer before the first course, a custom that we practice even to this day. Was the lettuce salad intended to act as an antidote to the passions that subsequent courses of meat might inflame? This may have been one of the medical purposes of the original leafy appetizer. Certainly, by the Roman era, lettuce had already reached Italy with fascinating baggage — cultural, medical, intellectual, and religious. Of all the European garden vegetables, its history is one of the most colorful.
Lettuce was first cultivated by the ancient Egyptians, and since it played a role in their religious rituals, they have left ample records in the form of wall paintings and tomb reliefs as to the nature of the lettuce they grew, some of the oldest images dating from as early as 2680 B.C. This was a variety of lettuce about 30 inches tall, like a giant head of romaine lettuce with pointed leaves. The drawing below is based on a tomb relief in the Egyptian Museum in Berlin. The relief shows lettuce in such clear detail that it is possible to recreate its salient botanical features. To me, the lettuce resembles Lion’s Tongue on a much larger scale. In any case, Egypt perfected the cultivation of the tall or upright lettuces now known as cos or romaine, and this cultural knowledge was passed to the Greeks. The Romans in turn acquired lettuce culture from the Greeks, referring to the new plant as lactuca (which means “milk”) in reference to the white juice exuded by the stems. The word lactuca is now used by botanists to represent the genus to which lettuce belongs.
The Roman agriculturist Columella (A.D. 50) mentioned several varieties of lettuce, among them Caecilian (both red and green), Cappadocian, Baetican, and Cyprian. Some of the varieties we know today may descend from these old sorts. Columella and other writers who discussed lettuce were quick to point out the Romans ate lettuce raw only when it was very young; otherwise they cooked it like spinach and served it with an oil and vinegar dressing. The custom of cooking lettuce, or poaching it to be more accurate, was continued in many areas of post-Roman Europe, but in nearly every case, this was done only with the large cos types. Otherwise, the oil and vinegar dressing was poured hot over the lettuce, another serving method practiced by the Romans.
Medieval references to lettuce abound, especially as a medicinal herb. Hildegard of Bingen (1098–1179), the famous practitioner of natural medicine, mentioned lettuce in her medical writings. Likewise, lettuce appeared in many of the earliest published herbals. Joachim Camerarius (1586) was one of the first authors to depict a small cabbaging lettuce of the tennisball type. Furthermore, he mentioned the three basic types of lettuce we know today: heading lettuce, loose-leaf lettuce, and the tall or cos sorts. Tall lettuces were referred to as cos because some of the earliest seed came to Europe from the Greek island of Cos. During the Byzantine period, Cos was a center of lettuce growing. Since this tall lettuce was first grown in papal gardens at Rome, the French called it romaine. In the 1880s market gardeners in the area around San Francisco began calling cos lettuces romaine, and the French name has now spread to the rest of the country. However, in older American garden books all romaine types are referred to as cos, and many old varieties from England, such as Bath Cos, still retain the older terminology.
Between Camerarius and the early eighteenth century, many of the basic heirloom types we know today evolved in France, Italy, and Holland. The Dutch in particular were active in creating many of the old standard varieties, and their influence survives in such varietal names as Brown Dutch and Early Dutch Butterhead. In the early eighteenth-century work called Adam’s Luxury and Eve’s Cookery (1744, 45–47), a number of familiar lettuce varieties were discussed, among them Brown Dutch, Green Capuchin, and Silesia. Brown Dutch is still available through Seed Savers Exchange, and Green Capuchin, with its deep green coarse leaves, is now known as Tennisball (black seed) and is taken up under the sketch on Salamander (page 185). Silesia has also undergone a name change and is now commonly called White-Seeded Simpson or Early Curled Simpson.
Volume 3 of Willich’s Domestic Encyclopaedia (1802, 89–90) enumerated many of the most popular lettuces of the day, names that were familiar to most early American gardeners. Among these were Silesia (one of the most popular), Imperial (still available), Royal Black, and Upright White Cos (the common green romaine lettuce of our supermarkets). Willich also pointed out that both Brown Dutch and Green Capuchin were extremely hardy and could be overwintered under straw, a handy piece of advice that I have put to the test several times and quite successfully. As cold-frame varieties, many of these old heirlooms are excellent. Obtaining seed is often another matter.
Lettuce Seed Lettuce seed is one of the bread-and-butter items of modern seed catalogs. Lettuce is easy to sell because it is easy to grow, and it is perennially popular as a vegetable in even the smallest of garden plots. Lettuce is one of the few vegetables that can be grown just about anywhere, on windowsills and balconies, on roof gardens, in flower pots by the kitchen door. As a result seedsmen have been more unscrupulous with lettuce then with many other vegetables, and this has made it difficult to sort out the histories of some of the most popular heirloom varieties today. In order to keep selling it, seedsmen have changed variety names often. The heirloom lettuce known as Hanson, which is distinct and unmistakable from any other lettuce, has sixteen commercial aliases. The unwitting gardener may buy these from different seedsmen on the presumption that they are distinct varieties, but this is not the case. They are identical, the same seed in different packets.
This practice of creating house aliases for well-known varieties arose in part as a means of deflecting attention from the fact that the seed house was selling a lettuce developed by a competitor. The present attempt to patent hybrids is a commercially motivated response to this sort of bewildering free-market switch-and-run that still takes advantage of the customer. When Salzer’s began selling Silesia (aka Early Curled Simpson) as German Butter Lettuce, sales rose. When word got out that this was the same old Simpson lettuce everyone knew, Salzer’s changed the name to LaCrosse Market Lettuce. This practice was so common among American seed houses that old seed catalogs can be used only with utmost caution when attempting to document heirloom varieties.
Several times in the past horticulturists have tackled the shifting sands of commercial lettuce terminology and, by growing out all the varieties side by side, were able to determine which were valid varieties and which were not. W. H. Bull of Hampden County, Massachusetts, undertook a useful growout for the American Garden in 1890, in particular taking note of the best of the varieties then available. He was thoroughly convinced that Boston Curled, Curled India, Hanson, and Simpson were too old-fashioned and obsolete. It is a commentary on his Victorian progressive-ness that these varieties are not only still with us but far more reliable than many of the highly inbred sorts presently on the market.
The most useful guide to heirloom lettuces, however, is Lester Morse’s Field Notes on Lettuce (1923), which resulted from field tests at the C. C. Morse & Company seed farm in the Santa Clara Valley, near San Francisco. This company was established in 1877 to raise seed for most of the major American seed companies in the country. The Morse field notes therefore form an unbiased overview of what was grown and how it compared side by side in the field. For heirloom lettuces developed before 1900 — my focus in this section of the book — Morse’s insights are valuable, and a careful reading will reveal many discrepancies between heirloom varieties of the past and what we are growing today under the same name. Furthermore, Morse noted that of the 1,100 lettuce varieties he could list by name, only 140 were truly distinct, if slight differences were allowed. In truth, the real number of pre-1900 lettuce varieties is probably about 75, the remainder being subvarieties or variant forms. A survey of lettuce varieties in France, Germany, and Holland in 1866 could confirm only 65 sorts after eliminating the synonyms, and even several of those were questionable.
Not only do American lettuces have large numbers of confusing aliases but foreign lettuces seem to change name every time they cross a border. Cappuccio ubriacona frastagliata (“drunken woman frizzy-headed”), a pink-red fringed Italian lettuce with a name I thoroughly enjoy, is also known as Rossa di Trento, the name of a popular Italian chicory. In France it has a completely different name. Likewise, the laitue lorthois of France is the Trocadero of England and the Big Boston of America. And so it goes. I have tried to provide some of the better-known aliases with all of my selections lest my readers be misled by something they see in a seed catalog.
One of the great difficulties in describing lettuce is that varietal differences are often visual, and it is almost impossible to verbalize subtleties apparent only to the human eye: tones of green, blushes of color, three-dimensional surface textures, details that do not transfer well into line art or color photography. Signe Sundberg-Hall, the artist who has worked closely with me on this book, has made the same observation. The only way to convey many of the features peculiar to lettuce is through the medium of watercolor. It is interesting that in the Album Vilmorin, where the artists could wash the lithographs with color, the lettuces reproduced convey a true sense of their appearance in the garden. In any case, most descriptive works on lettuce fall short in one way or another, no matter how detailed the botanical terminology. Quite simply, lettuces are beautiful, Adonislike, the butterflies of the vegetable garden in terms of their fleeting beauty. They are best studied firsthand.
Nevertheless, lettuce growers use certain basic terms to qualify lettuces by type, terms that imply a certain physical appearance of the lettuce at its peak for harvesting. The first of these terms is curled-heading, which means that the edges of the leaves are curled or crumpled and that the lettuce forms a head or ball when mature. Curled-nonheading is the same leaf type, but the head is loose, forming a bunch like Black-Seeded Simpson. Cabbage or butterhead lettuces all have flat leaves, usually thick, with the interior leaves appearing oily. Early Dutch Butterhead, one of my favorite winter lettuces, has leaves that appear dappled with dark brown wax. It is this waxiness that protects the lettuce during cold weather. Cos is the general trade term for all upright or tall lettuces, the varieties we now call romaine. The last type is called cutting lettuce, which is loose, leafy lettuce cut young for salads, what the Italians call lattuga a cespo da taglio (“cut and cut again”). Cutting lettuces were introduced into England in 1827 and into this country about 1829. The best-known variety of cutting lettuce introduced at that time was laitue épinarde, a name rendered into English as Spanish lettuce. Today, this is known as oak leaf lettuce.
Another way to differentiate lettuce is to categorize it by the color of its seed. Most seed is described as either black or white, although in fact there is gray seed and brown seed. Some brown seed is called yellow in old garden books if the brown is a light shade. I would consider the brown-seeded varieties to be a distinct category halfway between the black-and white-seeded sorts, but this is not universally accepted. Each seed color has produced a line of lettuces that is genetically related; sometimes lettuces have the identical appearance but different color seed. This seed color difference is a true marker for deciding which variety is under discussion. Therefore, in all of my sketches of specific lettuce varieties, I also provide the seed color. The eighteenth-century lettuce called Green Capuchin had black seed; it is not Green Capuchin if the seed is white or some other color.
Seed Saving Saving seed from lettuce is extremely easy on the one hand and messy on the other. First, the lettuce must be allowed to bolt or produce flower heads. Seed should only be saved from lettuces most true to type, and which bolt last. Saving seed from lettuces that are quick to bolt will only produce a strain that runs to seed quickly, especially during hot weather. The flower heads of most lettuces are about 3 feet tall and made up of tiny clusters of yellow blossoms. Seed is ready to harvest when the plants begin to yellow and the flower heads form “feathers” like dandelions. Strip the plants of their leaves and cut off the flower heads, turning them upside down in brown paper bags. Mark and date the bags, then set them in a dry, airy room away from the direct sun. Let the seed mature about a month before removing it from the seedheads.
To do this, roll the dried flowers between the fingers over a large work bowl. Feathers will fly everywhere (this is the messy part). The seed will drop into the bowl along with feathers and debris, which must be separated. Sift off debris larger than the seeds, then winnow the seed out of doors, blowing gently to lift the light materials away from the seed. If this is done carefully, the seed should separate, and the yield will be large. From eight to ten choice lettuces, I have harvested as much as 1/2 cup of seed, enough to sow an entire field. Some varieties have tiny seed or low seed yields, but once the seed-saving technique is mastered, there will be no reason to buy lettuce seed again, except to acquire new varieties.
Lettuces do cross. The controversy among horticulturists is just how far to distance the varieties. Some gardeners space their plants 5 feet. This is risky. I would suggest 20 feet. Furthermore, never save seed from volunteers that come up in the garden. Volunteers are an inevitable byproduct of seed saving, and some old varieties like Stoke, an English lettuce dating from pre-1840, are also self-sowing. In either case, do not save seed from plants that come up on their own. Their seed purity is questionable, and since lettuces are notorious for throwing sports and reversions to ancestral types, volunteers are only interesting if they look like a promising new variety worth cultivating as an experiment. Many heirloom varieties came into being in this very manner — Hanson was the product of a cross that occurred in a kitchen garden in Maryland. It is also necessary to remove any wild lettuce that is growing in the vicinity of the garden. Wild lettuce (Lactuca serriola) is found throughout the United States and will cross with garden lettuce under certain circumstances. The resulting cross will be tough and bitter. Likewise, Celtuce or Asparagus Lettuce should be isolated from other lettuces because it belongs to the same species, and while it is of Asian origin, there is a possibility it will cross with the leafing sorts. Again, 20 feet is a safe distance. Seed is saved from it in the same manner as other lettuces. All lettuce seed will store for three years under optimal conditions. If seed accumulates, share it with friends. Renew the supply often.
Planting Lettuce When planting lettuce, it is a huge mistake to follow the instructions on seed packets that advise planting it thickly in a row and then thinning. This is a great way to waste seed and end up with crowded lettuces. Only the cutting lettuces can be planted this way successfully; the others should be started in flats, then thinned into large flats. When the seedlings are large enough to plant in the garden — after the fifth or sixth leaf — space them evenly about 8 inches apart or more, depending on the variety. I space some of the large heading lettuces 14 inches apart. That way, they have plenty of room and will form huge, perfectly shaped heads. Lettuce that is crowded together attracts slugs and may be subject to stem rot at the base. Lettuce needs air circulation like any other plant. Furthermore, the more sunlight that strikes the leaves, the better the color and the higher the concentration of nutrients. The blanched white centers of lettuces like Iceberg contain very little food value.
Heirloom Lettuce Varieties In 1930 the U.S. Department of Agriculture reissued Farmer’s Bulletin 1609, Lettuce Growing, and listed the leading varieties of lettuce then under cultivation. Among the commercial varieties grown on a large scale, there were only six: Big Boston, Hanson, Iceberg, May King, New York, and Salamander. All of these are heirlooms — American garden classics in their own way — and I have included lettuces of this type in my profiles.
Bath Cos Lettuce
Lactuca sativa var. romana
There are two types of this eighteenth-century English variety, one white-seeded, the other black-seeded. The white-seeded variety is generally called Brown Cos. Its leaves are cool gray-green, deeply toothed, and tinged with red in the edges and veins as well as the stems. The leaves do not wrap tightly into a head except at the very center. The leaves turn pale brown where tinged by the sun, but this variety is normally tied up to blanch it a few days before harvesting. A well-formed head is about 14 inches in diameter. Plants should be well spaced in the garden to account for this. Normally, this variety is planted in the late summer to be ready for harvest in the fall. It is very hardy and will overwinter in parts of the South.
The black-seeded variant, called Black-Seeded Bath Cos, is smaller and dark reddish brown. It is also raised as a fall lettuce and is known in England as Coolings Leviathan. The leaves of this sort overlap differently from the other, somewhat like a rosebud that is opening partway. It also squatter and slower growing.
Another old cos lettuce from the same period is the Spotted Cos or Aleppo (white-seeded), mentioned as early as the seventeenth century. This is a shorter type of romaine lettuce with large, floppy leaves of a bright green color. The leaf surface is savoyed (covered with bubbles) and heavily speckled with reddish brown spots. It measures about 16 inches in diameter and is considered the tall form of the French Laitue Sanguine (white-seeded).
Big Boston or Trocadero Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
This white-seeded variety was introduced in this country in 1887 from France. It was first sold commercially in 1890 by Peter Henderson & Company of New York, and since Mr. Henderson thought it looked like Boston Market, only much larger, he created the American name Big Boston. Today it is widely circulated under Hendersons name and under its original French name, Laitue Lorthois.
The lettuce is a heading type, medium large in size, and globular when well formed. The leaves are a light green color, tinged with brown on the margins of the outer leaves. The leaves are smooth with a bright sheen, very brittle and quite tender, good qualities for salads. The inner part of the head is golden yellow.
Other commercial aliases of this lettuce are Tait’s Forcing White, Giant White Forcing, Tait’s Pride of the Point (Tait got tired of the first name), Schisler’s New Market, Stokes Standard, and Standard Head Lettuce.
Black-Seeded Simpson Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
One of the most famous of all American lettuces, this variety was introduced by Peter Henderson & Company of New York in the 1870s. It is a nonheading type, very crisp and light yellowish green with large leaves. Of all the lettuces listed here, this is the most difficult to keep true when saving seed. Also, in spite of its popularity with kitchen gardeners, it rots easily at the base of the stem and is sensitive to radical weather changes. This is counterbalanced by its quick growth and fine quality at maturity. Bon Ton is a selection of Black-Seeded Simpson, identical in all respects except small size.
Commercial aliases include: First Early (Great Northern Seed Company), Earliest Cutting (Landreth), Carter’s Long Stander, and Longstreath’s Earliest.
Boston Market Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
This is the same as White-Seeded Tennisball. Refer to my discussion of tennisball lettuces under Loos Tennisball. Many grocers in this country call this variety Boston lettuce as though it is a generic type, a practice that is somewhat misleading. Vilmorin (1885, 307) considered it nearly the same as a Dutch variety called Seelander Latouw, a possibility in physical appearance only, for the Dutch sort has black seed, not white.
Brauner Trotzkopf Lettuce
Lactuca sativa This is a distinct American variety also called Hardhead and Weber’s Brown Head. The seed is white. Its exact origin is not presently known, but David Landreth & Sons listed it in the firm’s 1875 German-language seed catalog. It is considered a German-American variety, a cabbaging or butterhead type similar in size to Tom Thumb, measuring 6 to 7 inches in diameter. It appears to be a dwarf version of Large Brown Winter lettuce. Large Brown Winter (white seed) was known to Fearing Burr, but not this form of it. Vilmorin (1885, 295) called it Early Cabbage or Dutch Butterhead. The leaves are crimped and dappled with red brown, which darkens to maroon toward the center. The surface of the leaves is shiny, as though waxed. The leaves have greenish white edges and ribs. It is a very handsome lettuce when mixed with Tom Thumb, and because it is a winter variety, it thrives in cold frames. It is also extremely slow to bolt.
Brown Dutch Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
The standard variety is black-seeded, nonheading, medium in size, and handsome deep lime green, tinged with bluish green in the center. It is described by the Abbé Rozier (1785, 215) under the name Laitue brune de Hollande. The leaves are large and floppy, with ruffled edges tinged with pink or rose, and tend to lie flat against the ground in heads measuring about 12 inches across. The back side of the leaf has small hairlike spines on the rib. Brown Dutch (white-seeded) is identical in appearance but as a documented variety is much older, for it is mentioned by Stephen Switzer (1731, 21) and other early horticultural authors. The white-seeded sort is often called Sugar Lettuce or Swede in old garden books. It was one of the most popular fall and winter lettuces in colonial America. Spotted Brown Dutch (black-seeded) is the same as the old variety known as Palatine, Brown Genoa, and Haarlem. It dates from the seventeenth century.
Celtuce or Asparagus Lettuce
Lactuca sativa var. asparagina
The accepted history of this useful and distinctive Asian variety is that it was introduced into France in the 1880s but did not reach the United States until 1938. W. Atlee Burpee is credited with commercializing it here in 1942. Quite the contrary, Celtuce came to the attention of American horticulturists in the 1850s and was grown by a small circle of specialists since that time. It was introduced to them by the Mennonite plant collector Jacob B. Garber (1800–1886) of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Garber also figured out that it was the stem of the plant that was eaten, not the leaves, even though the leaves make a perfectly respectable salad.
Under the heading “Hoo Sung” (today written as woh sun), Garber published an article about his experience with celtuce in the Florist and Horticultural Journal (1854, 248). According to Garber’s own account, he had raised the vegetable for a number of years from seed originally obtained from a Dr. Kennicott in Illinois. Dr. Kennicott might rightly be called the introducer of Celtuce, because it was he who brought seed from China in the 1840s. But it was Jacob Garber who discovered how to use it: “The stems being very tender, and when from a quarter to half an inch in diameter, and eighteen inches to two feet high, may be cut into lengths and cooked in the same manner as asparagus”.
Celtuce is raised like lettuce, but because it is a large, spreading plant, it should be spaced about 16 inches apart. The young leaves may be harvested as greens, but when the plant bolts to produce flowers, it is the stem that is considered the best part. Harvesting the stems, of course, reduces the seed crop, so it is best to set aside several plants for seed purposes. The flowers are yellow like lettuce flowers, and the seed is harvested in the same manner.
There are several distinct varieties of Celtuce, which unfortunately do not have distinguishing names outside of Asia. There are broad-leafed sorts resembling tobacco, speckled varieties, and some types with long, pointed leaves like fingers. Many of these are available through seed-saving networks, but very few American gardeners grow them for their stems. Since Celtuce bears hot weather well, it is often grown as a midseason substitute for salad lettuce.
Curled India Lettuce
Lactuca sativa var. capitata
There is a great deal of confusion about this early American lettuce with brown seeds. In garden literature, it is often treated as though it is Curled India Head lettuce, which it is not, since this is an old alias of Iceberg or Marblehead Mammoth. It is not the same as India either, although it is a form of it. From all appearances, it is a cross between India and Beauregard. It has the crispness and heading quality of Iceberg and the sharply toothed leaf margin of Beauregard. White’s Gardening for the South (1868, 243) described Curled India as light yellow-green and highly curled, which is true. Its leaves are blistered and shiny, as though glazed with ice. It is an excellent summer lettuce and far superior in quality to Iceberg. Its smaller size makes it ideal for kitchen gardens where space may present a problem.
Gotte Jaune d’Or Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Since this variety is now widely circulated under its French name, I have listed it that way, but it is a well known tennisball type identified in old garden books as White-Seeded Tennisball, Golden Tennisball, and Golden Forcing. As might be ascertained from the name, this lettuce was once popular as a cold-frame sort as well as a hothouse variety. The Abbé Rozier (1785, 216) remarked that it was grown extensively between November and February as a forcing lettuce in the north of France but was completely unknown in the south of that country. Due to its small size, it is extremely easy to grow in flats and for this reason was used like Tom Thumb. The heads measure no more than 8 inches in diameter. Even though this is a tennisball type and technically should form a head about that size, the head of this lettuce is loose, more twisted than curled, with a “cowlick” in the center. The leaves are tender, bright yellow-green, and crinkled. Right before the lettuce bolts, it forms a tight head like a cabbage, which lasts only a day or two. This is considered its peak stage for harvesting. Fearing Burr does not mention this variety in his Field and Garden Vegetables of America, but the Vilmorins recognized it in the 1880s. It is believed to be a Dutch variety developed for hot salads. It was introduced in this country by Peter Henderson & Company of New York. It is a poor producer of seed, so more plants (at least eight to twelve) are required for seed-saving purposes.
Hanson Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Remarks about this lettuce in the Vilmorin garden book (1885) clearly indicate that the French were not getting pure seed. Even today lettuces sold under the name of Hanson will vary greatly. This variety was introduced in 1871 by Henry A. Dreer of Philadelphia, and I have chosen to show one of Dreer’s original advertisements, since it illustrates Hanson at its best. Any lettuce sold as Hanson that does not form a head as shown is not Hanson. Dreer obtained the lettuce from a Colonel Hanson in Maryland, who stated that it had been growing in his family’s garden for many years and that his grandfather had imported it from abroad. More likely Hanson is a cross between Curled India and Early Curled Simpson, since it bears characteristics of both. Hanson is white-seeded, light green in color, with curly leaves that are fringed on the edges. As can be seen from the old wood engraving, it is a heading lettuce, extremely crisp and excellent in sandwiches. It withstands the heat well but is often subject to slug damage.
There are several commercial aliases for this variety. The most commonly appearing names are Ewing’s Excelsior, Gardener’s Favorite, King of the Market, Los Angeles Market, Louisville Market Forcing Lettuce, Ryder’s Green Globe, Toronto Gem, Toronto Market, and Nonpareil.
Hubbard’s Market Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
This old and popular white-seeded variety was developed in Chatauqua County, New York, by a market gardener whose name was given to the variety when it was released by Chase Brothers of Rochester. It is a cabbaging or butterhead lettuce with dark green crumpled leaves. The edges of the leaves are straight. It is now often sold as White Summer Cabbage, although the original Hubbard strain was darker green and larger in size than the old variety known as White Summer Cabbage. It is an excellent lettuce for summer, especially in the North. In the South, I would recommend it as a fall lettuce. The seed is white.
Hubbard’s Market has thirty-five commercial aliases, among them All-Year-Around (white seed), Eichling’s Early Market, White-Seeded German, Ullathorne’s Memphis Lettuce, Top Notch, Peer of All, and Hollow-Leaved Butter.
Iceberg Lettuce
Lactuca sativa var. capitata
There is a code of disdain among foodies in this country for the very old American lettuce variety we now call Iceberg. Its association with the worst sorts of American fast foods has been responsible for this, yet homegrown Iceberg is one of our finest and most reliable summer lettuces. Its early American progenitor was Ice (white-seeded), which began appearing in seed lists in the 1820s. The Gardener’s Magazine (1827, 436) announced it as a variety “new” to English growers and identified it as a variety of American origin. Unfortunately, the developer of this lettuce is not presently known, nor are the circumstances surrounding its creation. It was sometimes called India Head or Marblehead Mammoth and often confused with Curled India, which is similar and equally old.
Iceberg is a heading variety of a medium green color. The leaves are wavy and fringed, the margins tinged with brown. It forms a compact head that is white inside; it is usually the head, stripped of its outer leaves, that is seen in the markets. There are many selections of Iceberg sold as distinct varieties. Imperial Valley Iceberg, raised in Southern California, and Mountain Iceberg, grown in Colorado, are regional names for New York, not true Iceberg. New York (white-seeded) was introduced in 1886 by Peter Henderson & Company. In France it was known as chou de Naples blonde, and in England as Neapolitan. It resembles Iceberg in some ways, although the head is flatter, the color much deeper green, and the leaves only slightly curled along the edges. Batavian Red-Fringed lettuce is true Iceberg, but with considerable red coloring.
Loos Tennisball Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
There are three recognized tennisball varieties: white-seeded, black-seeded, and stone. The white-seeded tennisball is one of the oldest cultivated sorts in this country and is generally known by the name Boston Market. In France, it is sold commercially as Victoria, not to be confused with the German Victoria, which is a different variety and known in this country as North Pole (white-seeded). Boston Market was grown as a forcing lettuce in cold frames and hothouses.
Black-seeded tennisball is the same as Salamander. Stone tennisball (black seed) is a distinct English variety similar to Tom Thumb, but darker green, larger, and more savoyed. It is the same as the French Tom Thumb and similar to Stonehead Green (white seed). Loos Tennisball (gray-seeded) is probably a cross of one or more of these types, for it is intermediate between the dwarf character of Tom Thumb and a butterhead. The heads of Loos Tennisball measure about 7 inches in diameter and form loose, soft, fluffy balls. It is an extremely attractive sort introduced about 1853. Since it can be planted close together, it is ideal for small gardens.
The tennisball lettuces that formed small tight heads were often pickled in salt brine in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries for use during the winter. The following recipe is taken from Adam’s Luxury and Eve’s Cookery (1744, 142–43). The expression “unsalt” meant to soak the vegetables in several changes of fresh water to remove the saltiness. Cos lettuces could also be preserved in this manner.
To Keep Lettuce Choose the hardest, take off the large Leaves, and blanch them in Water, and drain them. Then stick them with Gloves, and season them with Pepper. Salt, Vinegar, and Bay leaf. Cover them well, and when you would use them, unsalt them and stew them.
Mignonette Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
There are two variations of this lettuce, a green and a bronze (both with dark brown seed). The green is commonly described as the original variety, but this does not tally with early catalog descriptions or with Lester Morse’s Field Notes on Lettuce (1923). The original introduction was the bronze sort first marketed by Peter Henderson & Company of New York. Prior to introducing it (Henderson also named it), Henderson had distributed seed to a number of horticulturists, so the lettuce appeared almost simultaneously in several catalogs. William Henry Maule of Philadelphia introduced it in 1898, and this is more or less the accepted date of its commercialization. It is now circulated as Mignonette Bronze; the other later subvariety is called Mignonette Green.
Both sorts are curled heading lettuces with highly crumpled leaves. The heads are about 7 inches in diameter, compact, with the outer leaves heavily savoyed. The bronze variety is a brownish color, referred to as “russet-colored” in old catalogs, and tinged with dark green. It is quite distinctive, hardy, and fairly drought resistant. Plants should be spaced 12 inches apart for the best shaped heads. Due to the tightness of the heads, it is often necessary to slit them two or three times so that the seed stalk can form. The green sort is prone to slugs and therefore should not be grown on heavy clay soil.
Oak Leaf Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Vilmorin listed this lettuce under the name laitue épinarde (black-seeded) as early as 1771. The Abbé Rozier (1785, 210) listed two distinct varieties, one with white seed and one with black. Both were well known in France as cutting lettuces, but were not introduced into England until 1827. Cutting lettuces were not popular in the United States until later in the nineteenth century, although some individuals cultivated them from imported seed. Thomas Jefferson raised a cutting variety called Endive-Leaved (laitue chicorée).
The oak leaf sort is a pale green color and forms a rosette some 12 to 24 inches across. The leaves are heavily lobed and undulating. This variety is extremely hardy and can be overwintered in cold frames in the North or in the open in the Deep South.
There were two American varieties of the oak leaf sort, one called Philadelphia Oak Leaf (white-seeded), the other Baltimore Oak Leaf. The Philadelphia variety was developed in the 1840s. It was darker green than the French oak leaf and characterized by a lobe resembling a finger on the end of each leaf. The French lettuce called Cocarde has similar lobing. The Baltimore variety was pale green and more of a cabbaging type, with round, lobed leaves.
Red Besson Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
This is one of the most handsome of all the lettuces I grow and a great favorite of visitors to my garden. It is known in France as Besson rouge or Merveille des Quatre Saisons (black seed — actually a dark black-brown). The lettuce is a cabbaging or butterhead type with heads 12 inches in diameter. The leaves are wine red and savoyed, and they darken as the lettuce matures. The undersides of the leaves are pink, as are the stems. This variety was illustrated in the Album Vilmorin (1882, 33) with extraordinary veracity to color, indeed one of the finest lettuce illustrations of the period. This lettuce was not listed in American catalogs until late in the nineteenth century, usually under the name Continuity. For the best-formed heads, plant individual lettuces 14 inches apart.
Salamander Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Salamander was one of the most popular lettuces of the nineteenth century. It was listed by B. K. Bliss & Sons of New York in 1871 under its British name All-Year-Around. Landreth and several other large seed houses also listed it that way, even though it had been grown in this country for many years as Black-Seeded Tennisball, and in the eighteenth century as Green Capuchin. That earlier name was derived from capucine, the French term for nasturtium or Indian cress (page 326). Correctly speaking, All-Year-Around, the name by which the lettuce is best known today, was a British strain of Black-Seeded Tennisball that headed two weeks earlier; otherwise it was identical. In the United States, the lettuce was widely cultivated on Long Island for the New York market, even though lettucemen always recommended it as a forcing lettuce rather than a field variety. In the field the green is deeper, and the leaves tend toward bitterness if the weather is unseasonably warm.
Salamander is considered a cabbaging variety, as shown in the woodcut. It has thick, savoyed, deep green leaves. The young leaves sometimes have small spines on the outside edges. White-seeded Salamander is a distinctly different variety, synonymous with Hubbard’s Market Lettuce and White Summer Cabbage.
There are over forty-nine commercial aliases for this lettuce, all of which Lester Morse grew side by side in his lettuce trials in California. Some of the better known aliases are Eclipse, Farquhar’s Long Standing, Fearnaught, Bridgeman’s Large Butterhead, Northrup-King’s Market Gardener, Sutton’s Matchless, Sherman’s Newport Head, Tender and True, and XXX Solid Head.
Silesia or Early Curled Simpson Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Dating from the seventeenth century, Early Curled Silesia (white-seeded) is one of the oldest cultivated varieties of nonheading lettuce in this country. It forms a tight bunch of light green crumpled leaves about 12 to 14 inches across. It is quick growing and very hardy. It was also known as Curled German Batavian. Today it is generally called White-Seeded Simpson, a name that came into use in the 1850s when the Simpson strain was introduced; it matured earlier than the older sorts. Due to its hardiness, this lettuce was preferred for overwintering. It can be grown in cold frames or simply covered with straw. Hard freezing does not kill it.
Among the Pennsylvania Dutch, this lettuce was normally planted in the old cucumber beds in August and September in order to have a succession of harvests through December. It was often planted together with Brown Dutch, Landis Winter Lettuce, and Speckled Lettuce.
Speckled Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
This type of lettuce has been grown in this country since the eighteenth century. There were three basic sorts, all rather similar in general appearance, but on close examination, their differences were enough to qualify them as distinct varieties. Today, they are mistakenly treated as one, and it is quite possible that seed switches have unwittingly taken place, which only muddles the issue further.
Willich’s Domestic Encyclopaedia (1802, 3:90) observed that if Brown Dutch and Black-Seeded Tennisball were planted together and allowed to cross, “The future produce of seed will be a new and very excellent kind of this plant, forming extraordinary large heads, the leaves of which are sprinkled with deep red spots, and uncommonly tender.” This appears to be the method by which our early American variety was created.
Amelia Simmons mentioned only one lettuce variety in her American Cookery (1796, 13–14): “The purple spotted leaf is generally the tenderest, and free from bitter.” She was referring to a variety of speckled lettuce referred to in old garden books as Spotted Butter (white seed) or Dutch Speckled Butter, a variety thought to have originated in Holland. It is a cabbaging or butterhead type, light green in color, and tinged with brown. The leaves are speckled with reddish brown, crumpled, and straight edged. It was a favorite hothouse lettuce in Philadelphia during the early nineteenth century, and I can attest to the fact that it thrives in greenhouse conditions. It is even less prone to aphids than many lettuces. This is the same lettuce noted in the Gardener’s Magazine (1837, 13), which stated that seed from France had been distributed some years earlier to members of the London Horticultural Society. Judging from historical evidence, this lettuce was much more popular in America than in England and was grown here much earlier. It was known commercially in this country as Philadelphia Dutch Butter, although David Landreth & Sons sold it as Indispensible. Hornberger’s Dutch Butter was considered the best selection of this speckled sort.
The speckled lettuce of this sketch is a variety preserved among the Mennonites of Ontario, Canada, and accessioned by Seed Savers Exchange in 1983. That seed originated with Urias Martin of Waterloo, Ontario, but is generally thought to have come from Pennsylvania. This is a butterhead cabbaging lettuce with somewhat blistered or savoyed leaves, as shown in the drawing. It fits the description of the commercial variety known as Golden Spotted (white seed), introduced in 1880. The spotting is brownish red, similar to markings on a quail’s egg. It is the same variety as Thorburn’s Orchid. It is not true sanguine ameliore, with which it is often equated.
Sanguine ameliore (white-seeded) is an old French variety often mistaken for the other two. It has a deep reddish brown mottling clustered thickly toward the center of each tongue-shaped leaf. Most significant, the interior of the head is pink; only in this variety is this the case. Sanguine ameliore was introduced in this country in 1906 by C. C. Morse & Company of San Francisco under the commercial name Strawberry Cabbage Lettuce.
Tomhannock Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Introduced by W. Atlee Burpee in 1886, this delightful white-seeded lettuce originated in northern New York State. It is a curled, nonheading type, medium green in color, tinged with reddish brown. The leaves are upright and outwardly spreading, and rolled over along the edge, as shown in the old wood engraving on page 187. Although it was considered a good hot-weather lettuce in the North, it was generally grown as a fall salad lettuce, since it is slow to bolt and, because of its hardiness, will not suffer from light frosts. This variety deserves to be better known.
Tom Thumb (Wheeler’s) Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Tom Thumb (black seed) was introduced by the English firm of H. Wheeler & Sons in 1858, although Ipswich seedsman William Thompson was growing laitue gotte à lente monter (the French name given to Tom Thumb by Vilmorin) as early as 1850. The French variety called Tom Pouce, which is the French counterpart to the English variety, is larger, darker green, and more savoyed than Tom Thumb. It is also the same lettuce as Stone Tennisball. In order to keep all of this straight and not produce confusion (!), the Tom Thumb introduced in 1858 is generally called Wheeler’s Tom Thumb. It was introduced into the United States in 1868 by James J. H. Gregory of Marblehead, Massachusetts, but was never popular in this country.
As its name would imply, this is a dwarf lettuce of the cabbaging or butterhead type with dark green leaves that are heavily crumpled. It heads into a fine little ball. It is easy to grow in hothouses and cold frames and does not require a great deal of space, since the heads measure from 3 to 4 inches in diameter. The lettuce makes an excellent garnish for buffet tables, and since it thrives in cold frames, it can keep the kitchen well supplied with lettuces all winter. Its commercial aliases in this country were Landreth’s Forcing, Holmes’s Forcing, and Early Green Stone (black seed).
White Paris Cos Lettuce
Lactuca sativa var. romana
This white-seeded lettuce is generally planted in the early spring so that it heads before the onset of hot weather. It is the most common of all the romaine types grown in this country and probably one of the most attractive as well. It is an eighteenth-century variety, sold in this country as early as 1802 by Bernard M’Mahon of Philadelphia. M’Mahon sold it under the name White Cos; in France it is known as blonde maraichère.
This variety is characterized by tall, narrow, upwardly pointing leaves with heavy white ribs. The leaves are blunt and rounded on the ends, light green in color, with the inner leaves folding around one another. A well-formed head may weigh anywhere from 5 to 6 pounds. This lettuce is a heavy drinker and will never develop its famous crispness unless it is kept well watered. This is also one of the popular lettuces that was used for stewing, especially if the heads were tied up in the garden and blanched before harvest.
The following recipe is taken from Baron Brisse’s 366 Menus (1886, 32). It surprises me that the baron would cook his lettuce for 2 hours; 30 minutes is quite sufficient. But the process is not boiling, rather sweating, with a very small amount of water. This is the reason for the buttered parchment paper, which prevents the lettuces from sticking to the pan.
Laitues au jus (Stewed Lettuce)
Clean, blanch, and trim your lettuces, tie them in bunches, putting two or three together, simmer for two hours in a saucepan with stock, a bouquet of herbs, chopped onions, salt, and pepper, line the saucepan with buttered paper. When cooked untie the lettuces and serve with their own sauce, which must be reduced and passed through a tammy.
Is Corn Healthy for You or Not?
Sweet corn is one of summer’s simplest, purest pleasures. A fresh-picked ear, grilled to caramelized perfection and lightly buttered, offers incredible, complex sweetness, an intoxicating texture and plenty of nutrition benefits to boot.
But many people have convinced themselves that sweet corn is bad. That’s a shame. It’s easy to take a few real nuggets of fact and use them to come to a distorted conclusion about this super-delicious summer veggie.
In Barry Estabrook’s feature in the July/August issue of EatingWell, “Sweet Summer Corn,” he set the record straight about this misunderstood vegetable. Here are some of the biggest myths about corn that he dispels:
Myth #1: Most sweet corn is genetically modified.
Truth: A lot of people mix up “sweet corn,” the vegetable you buy to eat, and “field corn”—the virtually inedible commodity crop used to make everything from livestock feed to ethanol to high-fructose corn syrup. While most field corn is genetically modified, most sweet corn is not. Last year only 3 to 4% of the sweet corn grown in the U.S. was GMO. Food-giant Monsanto hopes to change all that this summer, however. For the first time, farmers are planting Monsanto’s newly approved, genetically modified Performance sweet-corn seeds. A representative from the company wouldn’t divulge how much will be planted this year. One way to try to tell whether the sweet corn you’re holding is GMO is to ask the farmers you buy from if they plant GMO corn. (Syngenta’s Attribute and Monsanto’s Performance are the two varieties sold in North America.) Another way: choose USDA organic corn. GMO crops are forbidden under organic standards.
Myth #2: Corn is fattening and sugary.
Truth: An ear of corn has about the same number of calories as an apple and less than one-fourth the sugar. In other words, it can be one of the healthier foods at the cookout! Just remember: while sweet corn is healthy, some of the toppings people like to put on it aren’t. So don’t assume an ear of corn slathered in butter and doused in salt is still a healthy option.
Myth #3: Cooking corn makes it less nutritious.
Truth: Antioxidant activity, which helps protect the body from cancer and heart disease, is actually increased when corn is cooked.
Myth #4: Corn has no healthy benefits.
Truth: Sweet corn is loaded with lutein and zeaxanthin, two phytochemicals that promote healthy vision. A midsize ear also offers a helpful 3-gram dose of dietary fiber.
Myth #5: The best way to choose corn is by the color of the kernels.
Truth: Although corn lovers often profess to have favorite varieties, farmer Kevin Smith, interviewed by Estabrook for the story, says variety is far less important than freshness. “Any corn can be ruined if it’s old,” he says. Nor is color a key to quality. Yellow, white, bi-color—it doesn’t really matter. Preferences vary from region to region. Avoid corn with dry, pale husks and silks that are desiccated where they enter the cob. If pricked, kernels should squirt whitish juice. As for choosing the best-tasting corn, abide by Smith’s “one-day rule.” Don’t buy a cob that’s more than 24 hours out of the field.
But many people have convinced themselves that sweet corn is bad. That’s a shame. It’s easy to take a few real nuggets of fact and use them to come to a distorted conclusion about this super-delicious summer veggie.
In Barry Estabrook’s feature in the July/August issue of EatingWell, “Sweet Summer Corn,” he set the record straight about this misunderstood vegetable. Here are some of the biggest myths about corn that he dispels:
Myth #1: Most sweet corn is genetically modified.
Truth: A lot of people mix up “sweet corn,” the vegetable you buy to eat, and “field corn”—the virtually inedible commodity crop used to make everything from livestock feed to ethanol to high-fructose corn syrup. While most field corn is genetically modified, most sweet corn is not. Last year only 3 to 4% of the sweet corn grown in the U.S. was GMO. Food-giant Monsanto hopes to change all that this summer, however. For the first time, farmers are planting Monsanto’s newly approved, genetically modified Performance sweet-corn seeds. A representative from the company wouldn’t divulge how much will be planted this year. One way to try to tell whether the sweet corn you’re holding is GMO is to ask the farmers you buy from if they plant GMO corn. (Syngenta’s Attribute and Monsanto’s Performance are the two varieties sold in North America.) Another way: choose USDA organic corn. GMO crops are forbidden under organic standards.
Myth #2: Corn is fattening and sugary.
Truth: An ear of corn has about the same number of calories as an apple and less than one-fourth the sugar. In other words, it can be one of the healthier foods at the cookout! Just remember: while sweet corn is healthy, some of the toppings people like to put on it aren’t. So don’t assume an ear of corn slathered in butter and doused in salt is still a healthy option.
Myth #3: Cooking corn makes it less nutritious.
Truth: Antioxidant activity, which helps protect the body from cancer and heart disease, is actually increased when corn is cooked.
Myth #4: Corn has no healthy benefits.
Truth: Sweet corn is loaded with lutein and zeaxanthin, two phytochemicals that promote healthy vision. A midsize ear also offers a helpful 3-gram dose of dietary fiber.
Myth #5: The best way to choose corn is by the color of the kernels.
Truth: Although corn lovers often profess to have favorite varieties, farmer Kevin Smith, interviewed by Estabrook for the story, says variety is far less important than freshness. “Any corn can be ruined if it’s old,” he says. Nor is color a key to quality. Yellow, white, bi-color—it doesn’t really matter. Preferences vary from region to region. Avoid corn with dry, pale husks and silks that are desiccated where they enter the cob. If pricked, kernels should squirt whitish juice. As for choosing the best-tasting corn, abide by Smith’s “one-day rule.” Don’t buy a cob that’s more than 24 hours out of the field.
Could you give me some information about the Cherokee Purple Tomato?
Cherokee Purple tomatoes were rediscovered by tomato grower Craig LeHoullier. LeHoullier claimed that Purple Cherokees were more than 100 years old, originating with the Cherokee people.
The Cherokee Purple tomato has a unique dusty rose color. The flavor of the tomato is extremely sweet with a rich smoky taste. The Cherokee Purple has a refreshing acid, is watery, thick-skinned and earthy with a lingering flavor. Cherokee Tomato plants are very prolific making this plant a good heirloom for gardeners and farmers. Average: 80 days
Detailed Purple Cherokee Tomato planting instructions:
When starting your Cherokee tomato seeds be sure you have a place where they can get enough light. Even a sunny, south-facing window is barely adequate. Consider using a grow light to supplement sunlight.
Don’t start plants too early. Sow seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before transplanting outside. Plant them 1/8 inch deep in sterile seed starting mix in flats or cells. Seeds germinate best at 75 F to 90 F. Then grow transplants at about 70 F.
Don’t rush to transplant Purple Cherokee Tomatoes, either. Cold soil and air temperatures can stress plants. Wait at least a week or two after the last frost. Nighttime temperatures should be consistently above 45 F. Use black plastic mulch to warm soil and/or row covers, hot caps or other protection to keep plants warm early in the season. Remove covers whenever temperatures exceed 85 F.
Harden off plants before transplanting by reducing water and fertilizer, not by exposing to cold temperatures, which can stress them and stunt growth. Transplants exposed to cold temperatures (60 F to 65 F day and 50 F to 60 F night) are more prone to catfacing.
Space Cherokee Tomato transplants:
12 to 24 inches apart for determinate varieties
14 to 20 inches apart for staked indeterminate varieties
24 to 36 inches apart for unstaked indeterminate varieties
Unlike most plants, tomatoes do better if planted deeper than they were grown in containers. Set them in the ground so that the soil level is just below the lowest leaves. Roots will form along the buried stem, establishing a stronger root system.
To reduce root disease risk, don't plant on soils that have recently grown tomatoes, potatoes, peppers or eggplant for at least two years.
Mulch plants after the soil has warmed up to maintain soil moisture and suppress weeds. Cherokee tomatoes need a consistent supply of moisture. If it rains less than 1 inch per week, water to make up the difference.
Many factors (in addition to your choice of variety) affect total yield, first harvest and fruit quality. Raised beds, black plastic mulch and providing consistent moisture by watering or through drip irrigation are good ways to improve all three.
How you provide support to plants can also affect performance. Determinate varieties do not need staking. But staking and pruning indeterminate varieties can hasten first harvest by a week or more, improve fruit quality, keep fruit cleaner, and make harvest easier. Staking and pruning usually reduces total yield, but fruits will tend to be larger. Staked and pruned plants are also more susceptible to blossom end rot and sunscald. Allowing indeterminate varieties to sprawl reduces labor, but takes up more space and plants are more prone to disease.
Wooden tomato stakes are typically about 6 feet long and 1 ½ inch square, but you can use similar materials. Drive stakes at least 8 to 10 inches deep at or soon after transplanting so as not to damage roots.
Prune tomatoes to one or two vigorous stems by snapping off “suckers” (stems growing from where leaf stems meet the main stem) when they are 2 to 4 inches long. Tie stems to stake with soft string, twine or cloth, forming a figure-8 with the stem in one loop and the stake in the other. This gives the stem room to expand without being constricted. Start about 8 to 12 inches above the ground and continue to tie at similar intervals as the plant grows. As an alternative to using individual stakes, grow several plants in a row between heavy-duty stakes or posts spaced about 4 feet apart, and use twine to weave in and out around posts and plants.
Growing tomatoes in cages is a good compromise between labor-intensive staking and just letting them sprawl. You can purchase tomato cages at your local garden center, or simply bend a 6-foot-long piece of 4- to 6-inch wire mesh into a cylinder about 22 inches in diameter. (Cattle fencing or concrete reinforcing wire mesh work well for this.) Place cage around plants soon after transplanting and anchor with stakes.
Avoid excessive N applications, which can cause excessive foliage and poor fruit set. Also avoid using fresh manure or high nitrogen fertilizers (those with three or more times nitrogen than phosphorus or potassium). Poor fruit set can also be caused by heavy rainfall or temperatures that are either too high (above 90 F) or too low (below 55 F).
On most soils, you can sidedress about 1/2 cup of 5-10-5 per plant and work shallowly into the top inch of soil when fruits are about 1 inch in diameter and again when harvest begins.
To avoid other common tomato problems:
Keep soil evenly moist to prevent blossom end rot. This can also help prevent cracking when fruit absorbs water too fast after heavy rain following dry conditions.
Catfacing (misshapen, deformed fruit) is caused by incomplete pollination, usually due to cold weather. Don’t rush to transplant until weather has stabilized and soil is warm.
HARVESTING
Fruit that is fully ripened on the vine has a much fuller flavor than fruits that are picked early and then allowed to ripen. Many cherry tomatoes, however, have a tendency to crack if they stay on the plant, so they should be picked at the peak of redness, or even a tad before.
Watch the bottoms carefully; that's where tomatoes start to ripen. Some varieties, primarily large heirloom types, ripen before they reach full color. Pick tomatoes when the skin still looks smooth and waxy, even if the top hasn't turned its mature color (whether red, purple, pink or golden yellow).
Cut off the top of the plant, or remove all new flower clusters about a month before the first expected frost. That way, you'll direct the plant's energy into ripening existing tomatoes rather than producing new ones that won't have time to mature.
When daytime fall temperatures are consistently below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, fruit will no longer ripen on the vine, so it is time to bring all mature green fruits indoors, either on the vine or off.
SAVING SEEDS
Saving tomato seeds is a fairly simple process. Every tomato seed is covered in a gelatinous sack which contains chemicals that inhibit seed germination. This prevents the seeds from sprouting whilst inside the tomato fruit. In nature the fruit drops from the plant and slowly rots away on the ground. This is the natural fermentation process and it is during this that the gelatinous sacks are destroyed. To save tomato seeds yourself you need to duplicate the fermentation process. This will not only remove the gelatinous sack but also kills any seed borne tomato diseases.
Firstly cut the tomato fruits across the middle and then squeeze the tomato seeds and the gel into a container, making sure that you label the container with the tomato variety. The container of tomato seeds then needs to be put to one side to ferment for about three days. During this time the container of seeds will smell horrible and will go moldy. When the mold has covered the top of the container add water and stir the mixture. The good seeds will sink to the bottom of the container and the mold and hollow seeds can then be poured off. Add more water and continue the progress until only clean seeds remain. You can also put the mold and seeds into a sieve and wash under running water until just the clean seeds remain.
Next spread out the seeds on a glass or ceramic plate to dry, which can take about 12 days, making sure that you label the plate with the tomato variety. The dried seeds can then be put into a labelled envelope. Saved seeds should store for 5 - 10 years if kept in the right conditions.
The Cherokee Purple tomato has a unique dusty rose color. The flavor of the tomato is extremely sweet with a rich smoky taste. The Cherokee Purple has a refreshing acid, is watery, thick-skinned and earthy with a lingering flavor. Cherokee Tomato plants are very prolific making this plant a good heirloom for gardeners and farmers. Average: 80 days
Detailed Purple Cherokee Tomato planting instructions:
When starting your Cherokee tomato seeds be sure you have a place where they can get enough light. Even a sunny, south-facing window is barely adequate. Consider using a grow light to supplement sunlight.
Don’t start plants too early. Sow seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before transplanting outside. Plant them 1/8 inch deep in sterile seed starting mix in flats or cells. Seeds germinate best at 75 F to 90 F. Then grow transplants at about 70 F.
Don’t rush to transplant Purple Cherokee Tomatoes, either. Cold soil and air temperatures can stress plants. Wait at least a week or two after the last frost. Nighttime temperatures should be consistently above 45 F. Use black plastic mulch to warm soil and/or row covers, hot caps or other protection to keep plants warm early in the season. Remove covers whenever temperatures exceed 85 F.
Harden off plants before transplanting by reducing water and fertilizer, not by exposing to cold temperatures, which can stress them and stunt growth. Transplants exposed to cold temperatures (60 F to 65 F day and 50 F to 60 F night) are more prone to catfacing.
Space Cherokee Tomato transplants:
12 to 24 inches apart for determinate varieties
14 to 20 inches apart for staked indeterminate varieties
24 to 36 inches apart for unstaked indeterminate varieties
Unlike most plants, tomatoes do better if planted deeper than they were grown in containers. Set them in the ground so that the soil level is just below the lowest leaves. Roots will form along the buried stem, establishing a stronger root system.
To reduce root disease risk, don't plant on soils that have recently grown tomatoes, potatoes, peppers or eggplant for at least two years.
Mulch plants after the soil has warmed up to maintain soil moisture and suppress weeds. Cherokee tomatoes need a consistent supply of moisture. If it rains less than 1 inch per week, water to make up the difference.
Many factors (in addition to your choice of variety) affect total yield, first harvest and fruit quality. Raised beds, black plastic mulch and providing consistent moisture by watering or through drip irrigation are good ways to improve all three.
How you provide support to plants can also affect performance. Determinate varieties do not need staking. But staking and pruning indeterminate varieties can hasten first harvest by a week or more, improve fruit quality, keep fruit cleaner, and make harvest easier. Staking and pruning usually reduces total yield, but fruits will tend to be larger. Staked and pruned plants are also more susceptible to blossom end rot and sunscald. Allowing indeterminate varieties to sprawl reduces labor, but takes up more space and plants are more prone to disease.
Wooden tomato stakes are typically about 6 feet long and 1 ½ inch square, but you can use similar materials. Drive stakes at least 8 to 10 inches deep at or soon after transplanting so as not to damage roots.
Prune tomatoes to one or two vigorous stems by snapping off “suckers” (stems growing from where leaf stems meet the main stem) when they are 2 to 4 inches long. Tie stems to stake with soft string, twine or cloth, forming a figure-8 with the stem in one loop and the stake in the other. This gives the stem room to expand without being constricted. Start about 8 to 12 inches above the ground and continue to tie at similar intervals as the plant grows. As an alternative to using individual stakes, grow several plants in a row between heavy-duty stakes or posts spaced about 4 feet apart, and use twine to weave in and out around posts and plants.
Growing tomatoes in cages is a good compromise between labor-intensive staking and just letting them sprawl. You can purchase tomato cages at your local garden center, or simply bend a 6-foot-long piece of 4- to 6-inch wire mesh into a cylinder about 22 inches in diameter. (Cattle fencing or concrete reinforcing wire mesh work well for this.) Place cage around plants soon after transplanting and anchor with stakes.
Avoid excessive N applications, which can cause excessive foliage and poor fruit set. Also avoid using fresh manure or high nitrogen fertilizers (those with three or more times nitrogen than phosphorus or potassium). Poor fruit set can also be caused by heavy rainfall or temperatures that are either too high (above 90 F) or too low (below 55 F).
On most soils, you can sidedress about 1/2 cup of 5-10-5 per plant and work shallowly into the top inch of soil when fruits are about 1 inch in diameter and again when harvest begins.
To avoid other common tomato problems:
Keep soil evenly moist to prevent blossom end rot. This can also help prevent cracking when fruit absorbs water too fast after heavy rain following dry conditions.
Catfacing (misshapen, deformed fruit) is caused by incomplete pollination, usually due to cold weather. Don’t rush to transplant until weather has stabilized and soil is warm.
HARVESTING
Fruit that is fully ripened on the vine has a much fuller flavor than fruits that are picked early and then allowed to ripen. Many cherry tomatoes, however, have a tendency to crack if they stay on the plant, so they should be picked at the peak of redness, or even a tad before.
Watch the bottoms carefully; that's where tomatoes start to ripen. Some varieties, primarily large heirloom types, ripen before they reach full color. Pick tomatoes when the skin still looks smooth and waxy, even if the top hasn't turned its mature color (whether red, purple, pink or golden yellow).
Cut off the top of the plant, or remove all new flower clusters about a month before the first expected frost. That way, you'll direct the plant's energy into ripening existing tomatoes rather than producing new ones that won't have time to mature.
When daytime fall temperatures are consistently below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, fruit will no longer ripen on the vine, so it is time to bring all mature green fruits indoors, either on the vine or off.
SAVING SEEDS
Saving tomato seeds is a fairly simple process. Every tomato seed is covered in a gelatinous sack which contains chemicals that inhibit seed germination. This prevents the seeds from sprouting whilst inside the tomato fruit. In nature the fruit drops from the plant and slowly rots away on the ground. This is the natural fermentation process and it is during this that the gelatinous sacks are destroyed. To save tomato seeds yourself you need to duplicate the fermentation process. This will not only remove the gelatinous sack but also kills any seed borne tomato diseases.
Firstly cut the tomato fruits across the middle and then squeeze the tomato seeds and the gel into a container, making sure that you label the container with the tomato variety. The container of tomato seeds then needs to be put to one side to ferment for about three days. During this time the container of seeds will smell horrible and will go moldy. When the mold has covered the top of the container add water and stir the mixture. The good seeds will sink to the bottom of the container and the mold and hollow seeds can then be poured off. Add more water and continue the progress until only clean seeds remain. You can also put the mold and seeds into a sieve and wash under running water until just the clean seeds remain.
Next spread out the seeds on a glass or ceramic plate to dry, which can take about 12 days, making sure that you label the plate with the tomato variety. The dried seeds can then be put into a labelled envelope. Saved seeds should store for 5 - 10 years if kept in the right conditions.
How Do I Store My Dehydrated Vegetables?
Drying is a great way to preserve foods, but only if you do it right. Here are several tips to ensure safe storage of your home-dried foods:
- Do not package dried foods for storage until they are completely cool to the touch
- Dried fruits must be conditioned before they can be stored. Refer to How to Dry Fruits and Vegetables with a Dehydrator for complete instructions.
- Store dried foods in air-tight containers or freezer bags
- If using freezer bags, remove all air from the bag before sealing
- Store sulfured fruit in non-metal containers
- Store dried foods in small batches to maintain freshness, and to minimize the risk for contamination
- Store containers in a cool, dry and dark location. 60 degrees (or less) is best
- Dried fruits and herbs can be stored for up to a year
- Dried vegetables and meats can be stored for up to six months
- Store dried foods in the freezer, if you'd like to use them over a longer period of time
- To preserve freshness, store opened containers of dried foods in the refrigerator or freezer
- Inspect all dried foods before eating them, and discard anything with mold
- If condensation appears inside one of the containers of your home-dried food, it needs to be dried again
Can I Freeze Raw Eggs?
If you have more eggs than you can use within a few weeks of buying them, you can break them out of their shells and freeze them. Freeze only clean, fresh eggs.
Whites-Break and separate the eggs, one at a time, making sure that no yolk gets in the whites. Pour the whites into freezer containers, seal tightly, label with the number of egg whites and the date, and freeze. For faster thawing and easier measuring, first freeze each white in a standard ice cube tray. Then transfer to a freezer container.
Yolks-The gelation property of egg yolk causes it to thicken or gel when frozen, so you need to give yolks special treatment. If you freeze them as they are, egg yolks will eventually become so gelatinous that they will be almost impossible to use in a recipe. To help retard this gelation, beat in either 1/8 teaspoon salt or 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar or corn syrup per 1/4 cup of egg yolks (about 4 yolks). Label the container with the number of yolks, the date, and whether you’ve added salt (for main dishes) or sweetener (for baking or desserts). Freeze.
Whole eggs-Beat just until blended, pour into freezer containers, seal tightly, label with the number of eggs and the date, and freeze.
Hard-boiled eggs You can freeze hard-boiled egg yolks to use later for toppings or garnishes. Carefully place the yolks in a single layer in a saucepan and add enough water to come at least 1 inch above the yolks. Cover and quickly bring just to boiling. Remove the pan from the heat and let the yolks stand, covered, in the hot water about 12 minutes. Remove the yolks with a slotted spoon, drain them well and package them for freezing.
It’s best not to freeze hard-boiled whole eggs and hard-boiled whites because they become tough and watery when frozen.
To use frozen eggs-In a home freezer, you can freeze eggs for up to one year. When you’re ready to use frozen eggs, thaw them overnight in the refrigerator or under running cold water. Use egg yolks or whole eggs as soon as they’re thawed. Thawed egg whites will beat to better volume if you allow them to sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Use thawed frozen eggs only in dishes that are thoroughly cooked.
Whites-Break and separate the eggs, one at a time, making sure that no yolk gets in the whites. Pour the whites into freezer containers, seal tightly, label with the number of egg whites and the date, and freeze. For faster thawing and easier measuring, first freeze each white in a standard ice cube tray. Then transfer to a freezer container.
Yolks-The gelation property of egg yolk causes it to thicken or gel when frozen, so you need to give yolks special treatment. If you freeze them as they are, egg yolks will eventually become so gelatinous that they will be almost impossible to use in a recipe. To help retard this gelation, beat in either 1/8 teaspoon salt or 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar or corn syrup per 1/4 cup of egg yolks (about 4 yolks). Label the container with the number of yolks, the date, and whether you’ve added salt (for main dishes) or sweetener (for baking or desserts). Freeze.
Whole eggs-Beat just until blended, pour into freezer containers, seal tightly, label with the number of eggs and the date, and freeze.
Hard-boiled eggs You can freeze hard-boiled egg yolks to use later for toppings or garnishes. Carefully place the yolks in a single layer in a saucepan and add enough water to come at least 1 inch above the yolks. Cover and quickly bring just to boiling. Remove the pan from the heat and let the yolks stand, covered, in the hot water about 12 minutes. Remove the yolks with a slotted spoon, drain them well and package them for freezing.
It’s best not to freeze hard-boiled whole eggs and hard-boiled whites because they become tough and watery when frozen.
To use frozen eggs-In a home freezer, you can freeze eggs for up to one year. When you’re ready to use frozen eggs, thaw them overnight in the refrigerator or under running cold water. Use egg yolks or whole eggs as soon as they’re thawed. Thawed egg whites will beat to better volume if you allow them to sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Use thawed frozen eggs only in dishes that are thoroughly cooked.
How Do You Make Homemade Baking Powder
Ingredients:
Yield: One tablespoon of baking powder.
To store baking powder: Add a teaspoon of corn starch to the mixture, and stir. This will absorb any moisture from the air, and prevent the baking powder from reacting before you need it. Store in an air-tight container.
Did You Know? Most commercially-produced baking powder contains aluminum--sodium aluminum sulfate to be exact. Make your own baking powder, and keep your baked goods aluminum-free.
- 1 teaspoon baking soda
- 2 teaspoons cream of tartar
- 1 teaspoon corn starch (optional)
Yield: One tablespoon of baking powder.
To store baking powder: Add a teaspoon of corn starch to the mixture, and stir. This will absorb any moisture from the air, and prevent the baking powder from reacting before you need it. Store in an air-tight container.
Did You Know? Most commercially-produced baking powder contains aluminum--sodium aluminum sulfate to be exact. Make your own baking powder, and keep your baked goods aluminum-free.
What is Cream of Tartar?
Cream of tartar, more technically known as potassium hydrogen tartrate, is a fine white powder with many culinary applications. It is a byproduct of the winemaking process as the powder forms inside wine barrels during fermentation. It comes from tartaric acid, a naturally occurring substance in grapes and some other tart fruits that in the principle acid in winemaking. It helps to help control the pH of fermenting grape juice (wine) and that also acts as a preservative for the wine. Tartaric acid has been used in winemaking for centuries (when separated from grapes and purified, it is a white powder that is similar to cream of tartar) and cream of tartar has been around just as long, put to use by creative cooks in a variety of culinary applications. It is an acid and it is often used as a major component in baking powder, combined with baking soda to react when the mixture is moistened to ensure that baked goods will rise well. Although it is an acid, the cream of tartar and the baking soda will not react when dry, so the entire reaction is saved for the mixing bowl and the oven. More visibly, since most of us do not mix our own baking powder, cream of tartar is used as a stabilizing agent and is added to beaten egg whites to increase their stability and volume. It is also sometimes added to candies or frostings to give them a creamier texture because it can help to prevent the crystallization of cooked sugar.
In some situations, vinegar can be substituted for cream of tartar, although there is no exact substitute for the powder. This can be done when beating egg whites or making meringue, and it can also be done in a baking recipe that calls for separate measures of cream of tartar and baking soda. For candy making, it is best to refer to the recipe and see if substitutions will work because the recipes are often very sensitive to substitutions.
In some situations, vinegar can be substituted for cream of tartar, although there is no exact substitute for the powder. This can be done when beating egg whites or making meringue, and it can also be done in a baking recipe that calls for separate measures of cream of tartar and baking soda. For candy making, it is best to refer to the recipe and see if substitutions will work because the recipes are often very sensitive to substitutions.
How Do I Make A Shrub?
Basic formula: Use 2 cups fruit per 1 pint vinegar. Sweeten with 1 1/2 to 2 cups sugar (level of sweetness is up to personal preference).
Fruit: Berries are perhaps the finest fruit for shrubs, but cherries, peaches, plums, pears, and other fruits may be used. They should be ripe and sweet, yet they do not need to be perfect; this is a great opportunity to use farmers' market "seconds" and any fruit that is abundantly in season. Fruit should be thoroughly washed and may be peeled, chopped, or lightly crushed to shorten the infusing process. Ginger, citrus peel, or even peppercorns may also be added for flavor.
Vinegar: Any vinegar may be used, as long as it is labeled at least 5% acidity. Distilled white vinegar has a clear, sharp flavor; apple cider vinegar tends to be milder with a fruity flavor; and wine vinegars, while more expensive, often provide a superior smooth flavor. Balsamic vinegar is delicious with cherries and strawberries.
Sugar: White granulated sugar provides a neutral sweetness; brown and raw sugars may also be used.
Equipment
Clean hands and tools are a must!
Glass container with a lid or cap (a quart mason jar works well)
Deep pot
Measuring cups (liquid and dry)
Funnels (useful, but not required)
Saucepan
Food thermometer
Clean kitchen cloth or paper towel
Fine cheesecloth or coffee filter
Instructions
1. Sterilize the container: Wash the container in hot, soapy water and rinse thoroughly. Submerge in a pot of warm water to cover by 1 to 2 inches, bring to a boil, and boil for 10 minutes. For the lid or cap, wash it in hot, soapy water, rinse well, and scald in boiling water.
2. Add the fruit: Carefully remove the container from the pot using canning jar lifters or tongs. Place the fruit in the container.
3. Add the vinegar: Place the vinegar in a saucepan and heat to just below the boiling point, or at least 190°F. Pour the vinegar over the fruit, leaving at least 1/4-inch headspace. Wipe the rim with a clean, damp cloth, and cap tightly.
4. Let it stand: Let the container cool undisturbed and then store it in a cool, dark place such as a cupboard or the refrigerator. Let it stand at least 24 hours and up to 4 weeks until the desired flavor is reached.
5. Strain it: Strain it through a damp cheesecloth or coffee filter one or more times until the vinegar shows no cloudiness. Discard the fruit or save it for another purpose (it's often delicious for use in chutneys).
6. Add the sugar: Place the vinegar and sugar in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Remove from heat and let cool. Pour into a clean, sterilized container (use the original mason jar or other bottles; see step 1 for sterilization procedure) and cap tightly.
7. Store: Store the shrub syrup in the refrigerator. Tightly sealed, it may last for up to 6 months. Taste before using to make sure the flavor is still good. Discard immediately if it has mold or any signs of fermentation such as bubbling, cloudiness, or sliminess.
8. Serve: To serve, mix 1 tablespoon shrub syrup into a glass of still or sparkling water. Taste and add more syrup, if desired. Shrub syrups may also be used as cocktail mixers, in salad dressings, and more.
Fruit: Berries are perhaps the finest fruit for shrubs, but cherries, peaches, plums, pears, and other fruits may be used. They should be ripe and sweet, yet they do not need to be perfect; this is a great opportunity to use farmers' market "seconds" and any fruit that is abundantly in season. Fruit should be thoroughly washed and may be peeled, chopped, or lightly crushed to shorten the infusing process. Ginger, citrus peel, or even peppercorns may also be added for flavor.
Vinegar: Any vinegar may be used, as long as it is labeled at least 5% acidity. Distilled white vinegar has a clear, sharp flavor; apple cider vinegar tends to be milder with a fruity flavor; and wine vinegars, while more expensive, often provide a superior smooth flavor. Balsamic vinegar is delicious with cherries and strawberries.
Sugar: White granulated sugar provides a neutral sweetness; brown and raw sugars may also be used.
Equipment
Clean hands and tools are a must!
Glass container with a lid or cap (a quart mason jar works well)
Deep pot
Measuring cups (liquid and dry)
Funnels (useful, but not required)
Saucepan
Food thermometer
Clean kitchen cloth or paper towel
Fine cheesecloth or coffee filter
Instructions
1. Sterilize the container: Wash the container in hot, soapy water and rinse thoroughly. Submerge in a pot of warm water to cover by 1 to 2 inches, bring to a boil, and boil for 10 minutes. For the lid or cap, wash it in hot, soapy water, rinse well, and scald in boiling water.
2. Add the fruit: Carefully remove the container from the pot using canning jar lifters or tongs. Place the fruit in the container.
3. Add the vinegar: Place the vinegar in a saucepan and heat to just below the boiling point, or at least 190°F. Pour the vinegar over the fruit, leaving at least 1/4-inch headspace. Wipe the rim with a clean, damp cloth, and cap tightly.
4. Let it stand: Let the container cool undisturbed and then store it in a cool, dark place such as a cupboard or the refrigerator. Let it stand at least 24 hours and up to 4 weeks until the desired flavor is reached.
5. Strain it: Strain it through a damp cheesecloth or coffee filter one or more times until the vinegar shows no cloudiness. Discard the fruit or save it for another purpose (it's often delicious for use in chutneys).
6. Add the sugar: Place the vinegar and sugar in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Remove from heat and let cool. Pour into a clean, sterilized container (use the original mason jar or other bottles; see step 1 for sterilization procedure) and cap tightly.
7. Store: Store the shrub syrup in the refrigerator. Tightly sealed, it may last for up to 6 months. Taste before using to make sure the flavor is still good. Discard immediately if it has mold or any signs of fermentation such as bubbling, cloudiness, or sliminess.
8. Serve: To serve, mix 1 tablespoon shrub syrup into a glass of still or sparkling water. Taste and add more syrup, if desired. Shrub syrups may also be used as cocktail mixers, in salad dressings, and more.
What's the Best Way to Store Eggplant?
Eggplant generally should not be refrigerated because the low temperatures can damage the texture and flavor.
Store eggplant at room temperature, although it may be kept in the refrigerator 1 to 3 days if used soon after removal.
Keep eggplant in a cool spot, away from direct sunlight, and use it as soon as possible after harvesting or buying. You can place it in a vented bowl, but avoid sealing it in a plastic bag, which can increase decay.
Store eggplant at room temperature, although it may be kept in the refrigerator 1 to 3 days if used soon after removal.
Keep eggplant in a cool spot, away from direct sunlight, and use it as soon as possible after harvesting or buying. You can place it in a vented bowl, but avoid sealing it in a plastic bag, which can increase decay.
How Do I Save My Heirloom Seeds?
All you need is a sharp knife, a container, some water, a paper plate, and a few heirloom tomatoes to get going on this fun frugal task. Ready?
1. Choose a ripe, gorgeous heirloom tomato. You want to breed only the best.
2. Using a knife, slice across the equator of the tomato. Cutting the tomato in this way easily exposes the seeds.
3. Squeeze the seeds, gel, and juice out into a small container. No need to separate the seeds at this point.
4. Cover the seeds and tomato guts with an inch of water. The water helps to grow mold and separates the seeds from the gel.
5. Label your container so you don’t forget the tomato variety. It’s hard to tell seeds apart without labels.
6. Put the container in an out of sight spot and wait for mold to grow. Unless you enjoy watching mold grow.
7. After 3 to 5 days white mold will grow on the surface of the tomato water. This mold dissolves the gel coating from the seeds. When you see mold (don’t scream), just plug your nose and drain the water. Yes, it’s a little stinky. Be sure to keep only the seeds at the bottom of the container and discard all floating seeds. The floaters will not germinate.
8. Use a fine mesh strainer to rinse the remaining gel from your seeds. Don’t be afraid to use your hands to get those seeds clean.
9. Place your rinsed seeds in a single layer on a paper plate. The paper plate wicks the water away and will not stick to the seeds. The idea is to dry the
seeds fast and prevent them from going moldy. Be sure to label your plate. Set the seeds aside for a few days until fully dry.
10. Place your dry heirloom seeds into a labeled baggie. Store in a cool, dry place. Heirloom tomato seeds keep well and germinate for years if stored correctly. I keep mine in the refrigerator.
So there you have it! Saving heirloom tomato seeds is a simple way to stash some cash, get involved with biodiversity, and eat healthfully for less.
1. Choose a ripe, gorgeous heirloom tomato. You want to breed only the best.
2. Using a knife, slice across the equator of the tomato. Cutting the tomato in this way easily exposes the seeds.
3. Squeeze the seeds, gel, and juice out into a small container. No need to separate the seeds at this point.
4. Cover the seeds and tomato guts with an inch of water. The water helps to grow mold and separates the seeds from the gel.
5. Label your container so you don’t forget the tomato variety. It’s hard to tell seeds apart without labels.
6. Put the container in an out of sight spot and wait for mold to grow. Unless you enjoy watching mold grow.
7. After 3 to 5 days white mold will grow on the surface of the tomato water. This mold dissolves the gel coating from the seeds. When you see mold (don’t scream), just plug your nose and drain the water. Yes, it’s a little stinky. Be sure to keep only the seeds at the bottom of the container and discard all floating seeds. The floaters will not germinate.
8. Use a fine mesh strainer to rinse the remaining gel from your seeds. Don’t be afraid to use your hands to get those seeds clean.
9. Place your rinsed seeds in a single layer on a paper plate. The paper plate wicks the water away and will not stick to the seeds. The idea is to dry the
seeds fast and prevent them from going moldy. Be sure to label your plate. Set the seeds aside for a few days until fully dry.
10. Place your dry heirloom seeds into a labeled baggie. Store in a cool, dry place. Heirloom tomato seeds keep well and germinate for years if stored correctly. I keep mine in the refrigerator.
So there you have it! Saving heirloom tomato seeds is a simple way to stash some cash, get involved with biodiversity, and eat healthfully for less.
How Do I Grow and Harvest Garlic?
TIMING IS EVERYTHING, THEY SAY, AND WITH GARLIC HARVEST that’s especially true. But since the crop is hidden underground, how do you know when this edible Allium is ready—when it’s just the right moment to insure a well-formed head that will also store well through the winter and beyond? Like fortune-telling, it’s all in reading the leaves, apparently. When to harvest garlic–and how.
Don’t let its relatives mislead you. Garlic’s close cousin, the onion (Allium cepa), is more adaptable about its ideal moment to be lifted and cured. You can simply let the tops (leaves) die down right in place, delaying digging a bit to when it’s convenient. Or if you’re in a rush, move things along (assuming the bulbs are well-formed) by knocking over the foliage to urge the plants toward their finale.
With garlic, though, waiting until all the leaves go brown will promote overripe bulbs whose cloves are starting to separate from one another, and the resulting un-tight heads won’t store as long. Each leaf that browns is one fewer potential wrapper to protect the bulb. (Counterpoint: Harvesting too soon can also diminish the bulbs’ shelf life in storage, and may limit the bulbs reaching full size.)
Most “experts” say to harvest when several of the lower leaves go brown, but five or six up top are still green—and depending on the weather, this typically happens here in early July.
In the curing there’s another difference between the most popular Allium cousins garlic and onion: Assuming it’s a dry day when harvest comes, onions can be left out to dry right beside the rows you dug them from. Not so with garlic, which should be moved out of direct sunlight immediately once unearthed. Move it to a garage or porch or shed where the air circulation is good.
Harvesting garlic couldn’t be easier, as long as you remember one thing: Though tempting, do not try pulling the bulbs out by the above-ground stems, or at least without first loosening the soil alongside each row (not too close to the heads!) with a spading fork. Garlic stores best when cured with its leaves on.
Other factors that affect the timing of garlic harvest: the weather, and what kind of garlic you planted.
Softneck garlic (Allium sativum), the most common type of supermarket familiarity, has a row of largish outer cloves and a row or two of inner small ones.
Hardneck garlic (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon) is better-adapted to Northern winters (its long roots, above, hold it in the heave-and-thaw ground especially well), and frankly I just hate all those tiny inner cloves of softneck at peeling time. Nor does comparatively puny softneck make as nice a roasted head of garlic as the bigger-cloved kind.
Hardneck kinds send up a scape—really a woody flower-stalk-to-be—in about May, signaling a month or two remaining before bulb maturity. I cut the scapes off when they started to develop, and used them in stir-fries and pasta. I’m not being selfish, harvesting them then (though they are delicious); rather I’m telling the plants to put their energy into bulb production, not sexual reproduction.
Most people agree that is the benefit of removal, though some say leaving it on produces better cloves for replanting as your “seed” stock. I frankly have no idea what’s true (as with so much of gardening, you go on gut); I cut them off.
I make it all sound like a lot to ponder, but garlic is easy to grow. It takes a mere 15 minutes to harvest a crop of about 75 heads, and not much work before that, frankly, either.
Garlic is planted in the fall, around September in this are, with the biggest and best cloves from the biggest and best heads of last year’s harvest chosen to use as the start of the next crop.
Don’t let its relatives mislead you. Garlic’s close cousin, the onion (Allium cepa), is more adaptable about its ideal moment to be lifted and cured. You can simply let the tops (leaves) die down right in place, delaying digging a bit to when it’s convenient. Or if you’re in a rush, move things along (assuming the bulbs are well-formed) by knocking over the foliage to urge the plants toward their finale.
With garlic, though, waiting until all the leaves go brown will promote overripe bulbs whose cloves are starting to separate from one another, and the resulting un-tight heads won’t store as long. Each leaf that browns is one fewer potential wrapper to protect the bulb. (Counterpoint: Harvesting too soon can also diminish the bulbs’ shelf life in storage, and may limit the bulbs reaching full size.)
Most “experts” say to harvest when several of the lower leaves go brown, but five or six up top are still green—and depending on the weather, this typically happens here in early July.
In the curing there’s another difference between the most popular Allium cousins garlic and onion: Assuming it’s a dry day when harvest comes, onions can be left out to dry right beside the rows you dug them from. Not so with garlic, which should be moved out of direct sunlight immediately once unearthed. Move it to a garage or porch or shed where the air circulation is good.
Harvesting garlic couldn’t be easier, as long as you remember one thing: Though tempting, do not try pulling the bulbs out by the above-ground stems, or at least without first loosening the soil alongside each row (not too close to the heads!) with a spading fork. Garlic stores best when cured with its leaves on.
Other factors that affect the timing of garlic harvest: the weather, and what kind of garlic you planted.
Softneck garlic (Allium sativum), the most common type of supermarket familiarity, has a row of largish outer cloves and a row or two of inner small ones.
Hardneck garlic (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon) is better-adapted to Northern winters (its long roots, above, hold it in the heave-and-thaw ground especially well), and frankly I just hate all those tiny inner cloves of softneck at peeling time. Nor does comparatively puny softneck make as nice a roasted head of garlic as the bigger-cloved kind.
Hardneck kinds send up a scape—really a woody flower-stalk-to-be—in about May, signaling a month or two remaining before bulb maturity. I cut the scapes off when they started to develop, and used them in stir-fries and pasta. I’m not being selfish, harvesting them then (though they are delicious); rather I’m telling the plants to put their energy into bulb production, not sexual reproduction.
Most people agree that is the benefit of removal, though some say leaving it on produces better cloves for replanting as your “seed” stock. I frankly have no idea what’s true (as with so much of gardening, you go on gut); I cut them off.
I make it all sound like a lot to ponder, but garlic is easy to grow. It takes a mere 15 minutes to harvest a crop of about 75 heads, and not much work before that, frankly, either.
Garlic is planted in the fall, around September in this are, with the biggest and best cloves from the biggest and best heads of last year’s harvest chosen to use as the start of the next crop.
What Do You Mean By "Chiffonade"?
Definition: Chiffonade is a knife technique used for cutting herbs and leaf vegetables such as lettuce into thin strips or ribbons.
To chiffonade leaves of basil, for instance, you would stack the basil leaves and roll them into a tube, and then carefully cut across the ends of the tube with your knife to produce fine strips.
To chiffonade leaves of basil, for instance, you would stack the basil leaves and roll them into a tube, and then carefully cut across the ends of the tube with your knife to produce fine strips.
What Are Heirloom Seeds?
Heirloom seeds, heirloom vegetables and heirloom gardening are becoming increasingly popular today. Many people are turning or returning to home gardening for a variety of reasons, and heirloom seeds figure prominently. Some of these include an interest in fresh, local and healthy foods, others need to stretch the family food budget, some need additional exercise – preferably outdoors, and still others are searching for the lost flavors of the family garden when they were growing up. All of this interest has created some confusion as to what an heirloom seed truly is. Some think that the term “heirloom” is the same as “organic”. Other folks think that anything that is not organic or heirloom means that it is GMO. To make matters worse, some larger seed companies sell both heirloom and hybrid seeds that are certified organic, further confusing the matter.
Let’s take a look at a few definitions so we can better understand what an heirloom seed is compared to a hybrid or genetically modified seed.
An heirloom is anything of value (though not necessarily economic) to a person, family or group passed down from one generation to other. Examples are furniture, China, silver or seeds. An heirloom is generally considered something worth passing down. An heirloom seed, therefore, is seed from a plant that has been passed from one generation to another, carefully grown and saved because it is considered valuable. The value could lie in its flavor, productivity, hardiness or adaptability. Many heirlooms have been grown, saved and passed down for more than 100 years. Some have history reaching back 300 years or more. To have been saved and preserved for so long, these seed varieties have shown their value to many people and families for an extremely long time.
Most heirlooms have been saved and selected because they have the best flavor and production in home and small market gardens. We get the benefit of this long development cycle, as only the best producing, most flavorful, most memorable and most dependable varieties have made the selection throughout the years. Delicate, weak or fickle varieties are no longer with us.
Open-pollinated is another term sometimes used interchangeably with heirloom. They do not mean the same thing, as an open pollinated seed is simply a variety where the seed can be harvested from the plant, saved, replanted, and the same variety will re grow year after year. This is how we have the heirloom varieties that we have today is because they are open-pollinated. All heirloom seeds are open pollinated, but not all open pollinated seeds are heirloom, as there are new open pollinated varieties being introduced that are obviously not old enough to be considered heirlooms. An example of this is the Oregon Spring tomato developed by Dr. Baggett, Oregon State University through traditional plant breeding for early germination and productivity in the cool Oregon spring.
Organic certification is the process of certifying a crop grown to a strict uniform set of standards. The certification process includes inspections of farm fields and processing facilities, detailed record keeping and periodic testing of soil and water to ensure that growers and handlers are meeting the standards which have been set. The USDA sets the standards, and the criteria for meeting those standards. The certifying agency such as Oregon Tilth, CCOF, QAI and OCAI verifies that the grower is meeting the standards set by the USDA. In short, “organic” means only that a crop was grown to a specific set of standards.
A hybrid seed is produced by artificially cross pollinating two genetically different plants of the same species, such as two different tomatoes or two varieties of corn. The cross pollination is done by hand, and a seed that is saved will not grow true to either parent. Thus the farmer or gardener has no choice but to purchase new seed each year. Hybrids are typically bred for commercial use and profit to change the characteristic of the resulting plants, such as higher yield, greater uniformity, more even ripening, improved color and disease resistance. Flavor has only recently begun to be addressed when selecting characteristics for new hybrids.
Hybrids originated in the 1920s and 1930s for small local commercial growers who shipped their produce less than 50 miles to market, and needed more consistent production for a steady supply of fresh produce to the markets. Taste and freshness were still important than, as many people living in the city were recent transplants from the country, and still remembered what fresh produce tasted like. This is completely different from the hybrids of today with the selected characteristics that have resulted in the iconic colorful yet flavorless supermarket tomato that looks and tastes the same year round.
Genetically Modified Organisms or GMO seed have been altered using DNA from completely different species and organisms to give different traits such as resistance to herbicides and acceptance of chemical fertilizers. Some GMO corn, for instance, manufactures its own herbicide in its root structure. Some DNA donors have come from fish, frogs and bacteria. The major crops that are genetically modified are corn, cotton, soybeans and wheat. Sugar beets and alfalfa have recently been deregulated, and potatoes are being studied. Most common garden vegetables are not yet genetically modified simply because the financial return in the market is not present yet.
Two of the better known benefits of heirloom seed include adaptability and flavor. Some varieties of heirloom tomato have been known to adapt to a specific location within as little as 2 to 3 growing seasons, showing better vigor, better production, better flavor and increase disease resistance. This is a result of saving the seed and replanting it year to year. Many people come to heirlooms in search of flavors that they experienced as a child. One of the leading characteristics of heirloom varieties is defined by the depth of flavor that they produce. This single characteristic has been one of the major reasons for the preservation of specific varieties over great spans of time. This is probably one of the biggest reasons for the resurgence of heirlooms in home gardens in the past 10 years, as once people experience the amazing range and depths of flavors that heirlooms offer, they are hooked. Taste is once again becoming a viable characteristic in variety selection for the home garden instead of only production quantity, uniformity, and disease resistance.
People are celebrating the fact that taste trumps volume. It’s the classic quantity vs. quality conundrum, with quality making a comeback.
Let’s take a look at a few definitions so we can better understand what an heirloom seed is compared to a hybrid or genetically modified seed.
An heirloom is anything of value (though not necessarily economic) to a person, family or group passed down from one generation to other. Examples are furniture, China, silver or seeds. An heirloom is generally considered something worth passing down. An heirloom seed, therefore, is seed from a plant that has been passed from one generation to another, carefully grown and saved because it is considered valuable. The value could lie in its flavor, productivity, hardiness or adaptability. Many heirlooms have been grown, saved and passed down for more than 100 years. Some have history reaching back 300 years or more. To have been saved and preserved for so long, these seed varieties have shown their value to many people and families for an extremely long time.
Most heirlooms have been saved and selected because they have the best flavor and production in home and small market gardens. We get the benefit of this long development cycle, as only the best producing, most flavorful, most memorable and most dependable varieties have made the selection throughout the years. Delicate, weak or fickle varieties are no longer with us.
Open-pollinated is another term sometimes used interchangeably with heirloom. They do not mean the same thing, as an open pollinated seed is simply a variety where the seed can be harvested from the plant, saved, replanted, and the same variety will re grow year after year. This is how we have the heirloom varieties that we have today is because they are open-pollinated. All heirloom seeds are open pollinated, but not all open pollinated seeds are heirloom, as there are new open pollinated varieties being introduced that are obviously not old enough to be considered heirlooms. An example of this is the Oregon Spring tomato developed by Dr. Baggett, Oregon State University through traditional plant breeding for early germination and productivity in the cool Oregon spring.
Organic certification is the process of certifying a crop grown to a strict uniform set of standards. The certification process includes inspections of farm fields and processing facilities, detailed record keeping and periodic testing of soil and water to ensure that growers and handlers are meeting the standards which have been set. The USDA sets the standards, and the criteria for meeting those standards. The certifying agency such as Oregon Tilth, CCOF, QAI and OCAI verifies that the grower is meeting the standards set by the USDA. In short, “organic” means only that a crop was grown to a specific set of standards.
A hybrid seed is produced by artificially cross pollinating two genetically different plants of the same species, such as two different tomatoes or two varieties of corn. The cross pollination is done by hand, and a seed that is saved will not grow true to either parent. Thus the farmer or gardener has no choice but to purchase new seed each year. Hybrids are typically bred for commercial use and profit to change the characteristic of the resulting plants, such as higher yield, greater uniformity, more even ripening, improved color and disease resistance. Flavor has only recently begun to be addressed when selecting characteristics for new hybrids.
Hybrids originated in the 1920s and 1930s for small local commercial growers who shipped their produce less than 50 miles to market, and needed more consistent production for a steady supply of fresh produce to the markets. Taste and freshness were still important than, as many people living in the city were recent transplants from the country, and still remembered what fresh produce tasted like. This is completely different from the hybrids of today with the selected characteristics that have resulted in the iconic colorful yet flavorless supermarket tomato that looks and tastes the same year round.
Genetically Modified Organisms or GMO seed have been altered using DNA from completely different species and organisms to give different traits such as resistance to herbicides and acceptance of chemical fertilizers. Some GMO corn, for instance, manufactures its own herbicide in its root structure. Some DNA donors have come from fish, frogs and bacteria. The major crops that are genetically modified are corn, cotton, soybeans and wheat. Sugar beets and alfalfa have recently been deregulated, and potatoes are being studied. Most common garden vegetables are not yet genetically modified simply because the financial return in the market is not present yet.
Two of the better known benefits of heirloom seed include adaptability and flavor. Some varieties of heirloom tomato have been known to adapt to a specific location within as little as 2 to 3 growing seasons, showing better vigor, better production, better flavor and increase disease resistance. This is a result of saving the seed and replanting it year to year. Many people come to heirlooms in search of flavors that they experienced as a child. One of the leading characteristics of heirloom varieties is defined by the depth of flavor that they produce. This single characteristic has been one of the major reasons for the preservation of specific varieties over great spans of time. This is probably one of the biggest reasons for the resurgence of heirlooms in home gardens in the past 10 years, as once people experience the amazing range and depths of flavors that heirlooms offer, they are hooked. Taste is once again becoming a viable characteristic in variety selection for the home garden instead of only production quantity, uniformity, and disease resistance.
People are celebrating the fact that taste trumps volume. It’s the classic quantity vs. quality conundrum, with quality making a comeback.
What can I use for sunburns?
1. Soak it up. For immediate relief, soak the sunburned areas in cold water (but not ice water) or with cold compresses for 15 minutes. The cold reduces swelling and wicks away heat from your skin.
2. Take a dip. If you’re burned all over, take a soak in a cool bath to which you’ve added oatmeal. You can either buy a colloidal oatmeal product, such as Aveeno, or simply grind up a cup of oatmeal in a food processor and add it to your bath.
3. Give yourself a green tea compress. Brew up a pot of green tea and let it cool. Soak a clean cloth in the tea, and use it as a compress for sunburned areas. The tea contains ingredients that help protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation damage and reduce inflammation.
4. Freshen up with mint. Use the cooling, aromatic qualities of peppermint to quell the scorch of a sunburn. Either make peppermint tea or mix two drops of peppermint oil with a cup of lukewarm water. Chill the concoction and gently bathe the sunburned area.
5. Bring veggies to the rescue. For extra-painful spots of sunburn, rub the area gently with sliced cucumber or potato. They contain compounds that cool the burn and help reduce swelling.
6. Try some vinegar. Vinegar contains acetic acid—one of the components of medications such as Aspirin. It can help ease sunburn pain, itching, and inflammation. Soak a few sheets of paper towels in white vinegar, and apply them to the sunburned areas. Leave them on until the towels are dry. Repeat as needed.
7. Take a vinegary bath. If the sunburn itches, take a cool bath, but add two cups of vinegar to the bathwater before you get in.
8. Coat yourself. Mix baking soda and vinegar to make a thick paste, and slather it over the sunburned areas. Apply the salve before bedtime, and leave it on overnight.
9. Make your bed sunburn-safe. Sprinkle your sheets with cornstarch to minimize painful chafing. (Use this technique only for bad sunburns, since you’ll have to wash the sheets afterward.)
10. Go for aloe. Apply a light coating of pure aloe vera to the sunburned skin, using either a fresh piece from the plant or in the gel form you can buy at the drugstore. If you buy the gel, make sure it’s 100% pure aloe vera.
2. Take a dip. If you’re burned all over, take a soak in a cool bath to which you’ve added oatmeal. You can either buy a colloidal oatmeal product, such as Aveeno, or simply grind up a cup of oatmeal in a food processor and add it to your bath.
3. Give yourself a green tea compress. Brew up a pot of green tea and let it cool. Soak a clean cloth in the tea, and use it as a compress for sunburned areas. The tea contains ingredients that help protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation damage and reduce inflammation.
4. Freshen up with mint. Use the cooling, aromatic qualities of peppermint to quell the scorch of a sunburn. Either make peppermint tea or mix two drops of peppermint oil with a cup of lukewarm water. Chill the concoction and gently bathe the sunburned area.
5. Bring veggies to the rescue. For extra-painful spots of sunburn, rub the area gently with sliced cucumber or potato. They contain compounds that cool the burn and help reduce swelling.
6. Try some vinegar. Vinegar contains acetic acid—one of the components of medications such as Aspirin. It can help ease sunburn pain, itching, and inflammation. Soak a few sheets of paper towels in white vinegar, and apply them to the sunburned areas. Leave them on until the towels are dry. Repeat as needed.
7. Take a vinegary bath. If the sunburn itches, take a cool bath, but add two cups of vinegar to the bathwater before you get in.
8. Coat yourself. Mix baking soda and vinegar to make a thick paste, and slather it over the sunburned areas. Apply the salve before bedtime, and leave it on overnight.
9. Make your bed sunburn-safe. Sprinkle your sheets with cornstarch to minimize painful chafing. (Use this technique only for bad sunburns, since you’ll have to wash the sheets afterward.)
10. Go for aloe. Apply a light coating of pure aloe vera to the sunburned skin, using either a fresh piece from the plant or in the gel form you can buy at the drugstore. If you buy the gel, make sure it’s 100% pure aloe vera.
How do you store tomatoes?
One of the most common food storage mistakes, made by a large number of people, is keeping tomatoes in the refrigerator. It is wrong to assume that storing tomatoes in refrigerator keeps them fresher for longer; in actual fact, the opposite is true. Refrigeration makes them mealy after only a couple of days and gets rid of their flavor. There are far better ways of storing fresh tomatoes in order to keep them tasting fresh and sweet and maintain their firm texture.
If you have bought your tomatoes from the store, the first thing you need to do is remove them from their plastic packaging, as leaving them in their bags will make them rot a lot quicker. Put them in a bowl that you have lined with a paper towel. If you place the tomatoes with the stems at the top, they will stay fresh for longer. The most tender part of the fruit is directly around the stem, making this part most likely to bruise.
Temperature is an important factor when storing tomatoes. Room temperature is preferable; additionally, try to maintain the same temperature for as long as possible. Keep your tomatoes away from any major heat sources, such as stove tops and microwaves. They should not be placed in direct sunlight either, unless they need to ripen. If this is the case, line them up on the window sill or place the bowl on the sill if there is enough room. Great way to ensure proper humidity for storing tomatoes is special containers with controlled ventilation and ridges to keep moisture away. Tomatoes need a little light handling to keep them in optimum health. Gently, move them around in the bowl every day. This stops them sitting in the same spot all the time, which can lead to dark spots and bruises. Bruises lead to rotting, which will ruin your tomatoes. Be careful not to drop or squeeze them while you are handling them. Tomatoes stored in the correct way should stay good for up to a week.
Apart from knowing how to store tomatoes, there are other tips for getting the most out of them. Tomatoes that are grown locally, for example from farmers markets and co-ops, will always be superior in both texture and flavor to tomatoes sold at the grocery store. Store tomatoes are frequently bought when they are still green (unripe) so that they last long enough to be transported to the store, while locally grown tomatoes are picked far later in the ripening process.
Of course, the best place to get your tomatoes is from your own vegetable patch! If you do grow your own, make sure you prepare them for storage. Wash your hands, and then hold each tomato under cool running water, making sure all soil and dust is washed away. If your tomatoes were treated with pesticides or spray fertilizers, give them a bath by soaking them in a vinegar solution made up of half a cup of white vinegar and three tablespoons of salt, mixed together in a large bowl of water. After 20 minutes of soaking, remove the tomatoes one by one and carefully pat them dry with a lint-free cloth. But if you have not quite mastered the art of growing your own tomatoes, knowing how to store them properly when you get them home is the next best thing. As soon as you break the habit of storing tomatoes in the refrigerator, you will be amazed at the difference in the quality, lifespan and flavor of your tomatoes.
There is no great mystery behind storing tomatoes. All you need to do is follow these simple steps with a little care and attention, and you will soon be enjoying delicious tomatoes.
If you have bought your tomatoes from the store, the first thing you need to do is remove them from their plastic packaging, as leaving them in their bags will make them rot a lot quicker. Put them in a bowl that you have lined with a paper towel. If you place the tomatoes with the stems at the top, they will stay fresh for longer. The most tender part of the fruit is directly around the stem, making this part most likely to bruise.
Temperature is an important factor when storing tomatoes. Room temperature is preferable; additionally, try to maintain the same temperature for as long as possible. Keep your tomatoes away from any major heat sources, such as stove tops and microwaves. They should not be placed in direct sunlight either, unless they need to ripen. If this is the case, line them up on the window sill or place the bowl on the sill if there is enough room. Great way to ensure proper humidity for storing tomatoes is special containers with controlled ventilation and ridges to keep moisture away. Tomatoes need a little light handling to keep them in optimum health. Gently, move them around in the bowl every day. This stops them sitting in the same spot all the time, which can lead to dark spots and bruises. Bruises lead to rotting, which will ruin your tomatoes. Be careful not to drop or squeeze them while you are handling them. Tomatoes stored in the correct way should stay good for up to a week.
Apart from knowing how to store tomatoes, there are other tips for getting the most out of them. Tomatoes that are grown locally, for example from farmers markets and co-ops, will always be superior in both texture and flavor to tomatoes sold at the grocery store. Store tomatoes are frequently bought when they are still green (unripe) so that they last long enough to be transported to the store, while locally grown tomatoes are picked far later in the ripening process.
Of course, the best place to get your tomatoes is from your own vegetable patch! If you do grow your own, make sure you prepare them for storage. Wash your hands, and then hold each tomato under cool running water, making sure all soil and dust is washed away. If your tomatoes were treated with pesticides or spray fertilizers, give them a bath by soaking them in a vinegar solution made up of half a cup of white vinegar and three tablespoons of salt, mixed together in a large bowl of water. After 20 minutes of soaking, remove the tomatoes one by one and carefully pat them dry with a lint-free cloth. But if you have not quite mastered the art of growing your own tomatoes, knowing how to store them properly when you get them home is the next best thing. As soon as you break the habit of storing tomatoes in the refrigerator, you will be amazed at the difference in the quality, lifespan and flavor of your tomatoes.
There is no great mystery behind storing tomatoes. All you need to do is follow these simple steps with a little care and attention, and you will soon be enjoying delicious tomatoes.
How many cups of vegetables are in a pound?
Asparagus 1 pound = 3 cups chopped
Beans (string) 1 pound = 4 cups chopped
Beets 1 pound (5 medium) = 2–1/2 cups chopped
Broccoli 1/2 pound = 6 cups chopped
Cabbage 1 pound = 4–1/2 cups shredded
Carrots 1 pound = 3–1/2 cups sliced or grated
Celery 1 pound = 4 cups chopped
Cucumbers 1 pound (2 medium) = 4 cups sliced
Eggplant 1 pound = 4 cups chopped (6 cups raw, cubed = 3 cups cooked)
Garlic 1 clove = 1 teaspoon chopped
Leeks 1 pound = 4 cups chopped (2 cups cooked)
Mushrooms 1 pound = 5 to 6 cups sliced = 2 cups cooked
Onions 1 pound = 4 cups sliced = 2 cups cooked
Parsnips 1 pound unpeeled = 1-1/2 cups cooked and pureed
Peas 1 pound whole = 1 to 1-1/2 cups shelled
Potatoes 1 pound (3 medium) sliced = 2 cups mashed
Pumpkin 1 pound = 4 cups chopped = 2 cups cooked and drained
Spinach 1 pound = 3/4 to 1 cup cooked
Squash (summer) 1 pound = 4 cups grated = 2 cups salted and drained
Squash (winter) 2 pounds = 2-1/2 cups cooked and pureed
Sweet potatoes 1 pound = 4 cups grated = 1 cup cooked and pureed
Swiss chard 1 pound = 5 to 6 cups packed leaves = 1 to 1-1/2 cups cooked
Tomatoes 1 pound (3 or 4 medium) = 1-1/2 cups seeded pulp
Turnips 1 pound = 4 cups chopped = 2 cups cooked and mashed
Beans (string) 1 pound = 4 cups chopped
Beets 1 pound (5 medium) = 2–1/2 cups chopped
Broccoli 1/2 pound = 6 cups chopped
Cabbage 1 pound = 4–1/2 cups shredded
Carrots 1 pound = 3–1/2 cups sliced or grated
Celery 1 pound = 4 cups chopped
Cucumbers 1 pound (2 medium) = 4 cups sliced
Eggplant 1 pound = 4 cups chopped (6 cups raw, cubed = 3 cups cooked)
Garlic 1 clove = 1 teaspoon chopped
Leeks 1 pound = 4 cups chopped (2 cups cooked)
Mushrooms 1 pound = 5 to 6 cups sliced = 2 cups cooked
Onions 1 pound = 4 cups sliced = 2 cups cooked
Parsnips 1 pound unpeeled = 1-1/2 cups cooked and pureed
Peas 1 pound whole = 1 to 1-1/2 cups shelled
Potatoes 1 pound (3 medium) sliced = 2 cups mashed
Pumpkin 1 pound = 4 cups chopped = 2 cups cooked and drained
Spinach 1 pound = 3/4 to 1 cup cooked
Squash (summer) 1 pound = 4 cups grated = 2 cups salted and drained
Squash (winter) 2 pounds = 2-1/2 cups cooked and pureed
Sweet potatoes 1 pound = 4 cups grated = 1 cup cooked and pureed
Swiss chard 1 pound = 5 to 6 cups packed leaves = 1 to 1-1/2 cups cooked
Tomatoes 1 pound (3 or 4 medium) = 1-1/2 cups seeded pulp
Turnips 1 pound = 4 cups chopped = 2 cups cooked and mashed
I'm making Zucchini-Pineapple. How does zucchini compare to real pineapple?
Pineapple -
Pineapple is a highly versatile fruit that you can enjoy as a dessert or a pick-me-up, include in salads, main courses and cakes or use as a garnish for meats and vegetables. It's available fresh year-round and is sold canned, frozen, candied and juiced. Pineapple is good for you because it supplies a significant amount of vitamin C, potassium and manganese. The golden-yellow fruit also is free of fat and low in sodium. It is a source of fiber and also contains an enzyme associated with healing and preventing certain major maladies.
Vitamins and Key Minerals While many people associate vitamin C with oranges, pineapples offer almost as much in an equivalent serving. One cup of pineapple chunks has 78.9 mg of vitamin C, compared with 87.7 mg in a typical navel orange. The same size serving of pineapple also supplies 180 mg of potassium, which will help get you toward the Institute of Medicine's recommended intake of 4.7 g a day. Pineapples are particularly high in manganese, with 1.53 mg in a cup of chunks. The Institute of Medicine recommends between 1.6 and 2.3 mg a day, depending on age and gender. The body needs manganese for normal growth. The mineral also helps to break down fats, carbohydrates and proteins.
One cup of pineapple chunks contains 2 mg of sodium, which is negligible. The USDA urges Americans to consume less than 2,300 mg of sodium a day, and the American Heart Association says those with high blood pressure or other heart-related ailments should restrict that to below 1,500 mg a day.
Bromelain Fresh pineapples are the sole source of bromelain, a combination of protein-digesting enzymes that fight inflammation in the body. Bromelain is "particularly effective in reducing inflammation associated with infection and injuries," according to the University of Maryland Medical Center. Experts there note that researchers have seen indications that bromelain might help treat wounds and burns, sinus inflammation, indigestion, arthritis, asthma and infection. However, much of this research has been in animals.
The University of Maryland notes that the level of bromelain in a pineapple is not sufficient to have a medicinal effect. Bromelain tablets and capsules are available at health food stores and online. Talk with your physician before taking bromelain or any other supplement. Some medical practitioners use a bromelain topical solution for burns, but you should not treat yourself.
Warnings Don't use fresh or frozen pineapple in gelatin mixtures because a natural enzyme prevents them from setting. Canned pineapple won't cause the problem.
If you haven't eaten pineapple before, be aware that a small number of people suffer an allergic reaction to the fruit. You may experience hives, itching, swelling or eczema. Some people might have nausea and vomiting, stomach cramps, indigestion or diarrhea. Wheezing, nasal congestion or trouble breathing, as well as lightheadedness, dizziness or fainting, are possible. If the conditions become extreme, or if you have difficulty swallowing or breathing, a rapid pulse, loss of consciousness or a blue color in the skin and nails, someone should summon emergency medical care. Don't be reluctant to call 911 for help.
Zucchini -
Storage - Whole zucchini will stay fresh when stored in the refrigerator for up to one week. To keep the zucchini the freshest, wait to wash it until ready to use it. Once cut, whether raw or cooked already, eat the zucchini within two days for freshest taste.
Calories - Because zucchini contains a high water content, it provides very few calories. A half cup of sliced or diced zucchini counts as a half-cup serving toward the 2 1/2 to 3 cups of vegetables recommended by U.S. Department of Agriculture. That half cup of zucchini only provides 10 calories.
Fat - The American Heart Association recommends limiting the intake of fat to 25 to 35 percent of your total calories for the day. Because zucchini contains no fat or cholesterol, adding it to your diet helps to reach nutrient goals without contributing to fat calories.
Vitamin C - The body needs vitamin C to make collagen, a protein necessary to build bone, skin, cartilage, tendons and ligaments. It also promotes healing and helps maintain healthy teeth and bones. Vitamin C also acts as an antioxidant, meaning it protects the cells in the body from the harmful effects of free radicals -- negatively charged atoms created when oxygen interacts with certain molecules. Adults should consume 75 to 90 mg of vitamin C per day and the half-cup serving of zucchini provides 15 percent of that total intake.
Other Vitamins and Minerals Zucchini contains a useful amount of folate, also known as vitamin B9, which helps the body produce and maintain new cells. Zucchini also provides the body with vitamin A needed for healthy teeth and eyes; potassium, which is a mineral crucial to heart function; and iron needed to produce the protein hemoglobin found in red blood cells.
Pineapple is a highly versatile fruit that you can enjoy as a dessert or a pick-me-up, include in salads, main courses and cakes or use as a garnish for meats and vegetables. It's available fresh year-round and is sold canned, frozen, candied and juiced. Pineapple is good for you because it supplies a significant amount of vitamin C, potassium and manganese. The golden-yellow fruit also is free of fat and low in sodium. It is a source of fiber and also contains an enzyme associated with healing and preventing certain major maladies.
Vitamins and Key Minerals While many people associate vitamin C with oranges, pineapples offer almost as much in an equivalent serving. One cup of pineapple chunks has 78.9 mg of vitamin C, compared with 87.7 mg in a typical navel orange. The same size serving of pineapple also supplies 180 mg of potassium, which will help get you toward the Institute of Medicine's recommended intake of 4.7 g a day. Pineapples are particularly high in manganese, with 1.53 mg in a cup of chunks. The Institute of Medicine recommends between 1.6 and 2.3 mg a day, depending on age and gender. The body needs manganese for normal growth. The mineral also helps to break down fats, carbohydrates and proteins.
One cup of pineapple chunks contains 2 mg of sodium, which is negligible. The USDA urges Americans to consume less than 2,300 mg of sodium a day, and the American Heart Association says those with high blood pressure or other heart-related ailments should restrict that to below 1,500 mg a day.
Bromelain Fresh pineapples are the sole source of bromelain, a combination of protein-digesting enzymes that fight inflammation in the body. Bromelain is "particularly effective in reducing inflammation associated with infection and injuries," according to the University of Maryland Medical Center. Experts there note that researchers have seen indications that bromelain might help treat wounds and burns, sinus inflammation, indigestion, arthritis, asthma and infection. However, much of this research has been in animals.
The University of Maryland notes that the level of bromelain in a pineapple is not sufficient to have a medicinal effect. Bromelain tablets and capsules are available at health food stores and online. Talk with your physician before taking bromelain or any other supplement. Some medical practitioners use a bromelain topical solution for burns, but you should not treat yourself.
Warnings Don't use fresh or frozen pineapple in gelatin mixtures because a natural enzyme prevents them from setting. Canned pineapple won't cause the problem.
If you haven't eaten pineapple before, be aware that a small number of people suffer an allergic reaction to the fruit. You may experience hives, itching, swelling or eczema. Some people might have nausea and vomiting, stomach cramps, indigestion or diarrhea. Wheezing, nasal congestion or trouble breathing, as well as lightheadedness, dizziness or fainting, are possible. If the conditions become extreme, or if you have difficulty swallowing or breathing, a rapid pulse, loss of consciousness or a blue color in the skin and nails, someone should summon emergency medical care. Don't be reluctant to call 911 for help.
Zucchini -
Storage - Whole zucchini will stay fresh when stored in the refrigerator for up to one week. To keep the zucchini the freshest, wait to wash it until ready to use it. Once cut, whether raw or cooked already, eat the zucchini within two days for freshest taste.
Calories - Because zucchini contains a high water content, it provides very few calories. A half cup of sliced or diced zucchini counts as a half-cup serving toward the 2 1/2 to 3 cups of vegetables recommended by U.S. Department of Agriculture. That half cup of zucchini only provides 10 calories.
Fat - The American Heart Association recommends limiting the intake of fat to 25 to 35 percent of your total calories for the day. Because zucchini contains no fat or cholesterol, adding it to your diet helps to reach nutrient goals without contributing to fat calories.
Vitamin C - The body needs vitamin C to make collagen, a protein necessary to build bone, skin, cartilage, tendons and ligaments. It also promotes healing and helps maintain healthy teeth and bones. Vitamin C also acts as an antioxidant, meaning it protects the cells in the body from the harmful effects of free radicals -- negatively charged atoms created when oxygen interacts with certain molecules. Adults should consume 75 to 90 mg of vitamin C per day and the half-cup serving of zucchini provides 15 percent of that total intake.
Other Vitamins and Minerals Zucchini contains a useful amount of folate, also known as vitamin B9, which helps the body produce and maintain new cells. Zucchini also provides the body with vitamin A needed for healthy teeth and eyes; potassium, which is a mineral crucial to heart function; and iron needed to produce the protein hemoglobin found in red blood cells.
What are the differences in vinegars?
You might be surprised to learn that there are dozens of types of vinegar. The most common vinegars found in American kitchens are white distilled and apple cider, but the more adventurous may also use red wine vinegar; white wine vinegar; rice vinegar; or gourmet varieties, such as 25-year-old balsamic vinegar or rich black fig vinegar.
Vinegar can be made from just about any food that contains natural sugars. Yeast ferments these sugars into alcohol, and certain types of bacteria convert that alcohol a second time into vinegar. A weak acetic acid remains after this second fermentation; the acid has flavors reminiscent of the original fermented food, such as apples or grapes. Acetic acid is what gives vinegar its distinct tart taste.
Pure acetic acid can be made in a laboratory; when diluted with water, it is sometimes sold as white vinegar. However, acetic acids created in labs lack the subtle flavors found in true vinegars, and synthesized versions don't hold a candle to vinegars fermented naturally from summer's sugar-laden fruits or other foods.
Vinegars can be made from many different foods that add their own tastes to the final products, but additional ingredients, such as herbs, spices, or fruits, can be added for further flavor enhancement.
Vinegar Varieties
Vinegar is great for a healthy, light style of cooking. The tangy taste often reduces the need for salt, especially in soups and bean dishes. It can also cut the fat in a recipe because it balances flavors without requiring the addition of as much cream, butter, or oil. Vinegar flavors range from mild to bold, so you're sure to find one with the taste you want. A brief look at some of the various vinegars available may help you choose a new one for your culinary escapades.
White Vinegar
This clear variety is the most common type of vinegar in American households. It is made either from grain-based ethanol or laboratory-produced acetic acid and then diluted with water. Its flavor is a bit too harsh for most cooking uses, but it is good for pickling and performing many cleaning jobs around the house.
Apple Cider Vinegar
Apple cider vinegar is the second-most-common type of vinegar in the United States. This light-tan vinegar made from apple cider adds a tart and subtle fruity flavor to your cooking. Apple cider vinegar is best for salads, dressings, marinades, condiments, and most general vinegar needs.
Wine Vinegar
This flavorful type of vinegar is made from a blend of either red wines or white wines and is common in Europe, especially Germany. Creative cooks often infuse wine vinegars with extra flavor by tucking in a few sprigs of well-washed fresh herbs, dried herbs, or fresh berries. Red wine vinegar is often flavored with natural raspberry flavoring, if not with the fruit itself.
The quality of the original wine determines how good the vinegar is. Better wine vinegars are made from good wines and are aged for a couple of years or more in wooden casks. The result is a fuller, more complex, and mellow flavor.
You might find sherry vinegar on the shelf next to the wine vinegars. This variety is made from sherry wine, and usually is imported from Spain. Champagne vinegar (yes, made from the bubbly stuff) is a specialty vinegar and is quite expensive.
Wine vinegar excels at bringing out the sweetness of fruit, melon, and berries and adds a flavorful punch to fresh salsa.
Balsamic Vinegar
There are two types of this popular and flavorful vinegar, traditional and commercial. A quasigovernmental body in Modena, Italy (balsamic vinegar's birthplace), regulates the production of traditional balsamic vinegar.
Traditional balsamic. Traditional balsamic vinegars are artisanal foods, similar to great wines, with long histories and well-developed customs for their production. An excellent balsamic vinegar can be made only by an experienced crafter who has spent many years tending the vinegar, patiently watching and learning.
The luscious white and sugary trebbiano grapes that are grown in the northern region of Italy near Modena form the base of the world's best and only true balsamic vinegars. Customdictates that the grapes be left on the vine for as long as possible to develop their sugar. The juice (or "must") is pressed out of the grapes and boiled down; then, vinegar production begins.
Traditional balsamic vinegar is aged for a number of years -- typically 6 and as many as 25. Aging takes place in a succession of casks made from a variety of woods, such as chestnut, mulberry, oak, juniper, and cherry. Each producer has its own formula for the order in which the vinegar is moved to the different casks. Thus, the flavors are complex, rich, sweet, and subtly woody. Vinegar made in this way carries a seal from the Consortium of Producers of the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena.
Because of the arduous production process, only a limited amount of traditional balsamic vinegar makes it to market each year, and what is available is expensive.
Leaf ratings. You might see that some traditional balsamic vinegars have leaves on their labels. This is a rating system that ranks quality on a one- to four-leaf scale, with four leaves being the best. You can use the leaf ranking as a guide for how to use the vinegar. For instance, one-leaf balsamic vinegar would be appropriate for salad dressing, while four-leaf vinegar would be best used a few drops at a time to season a dish right before serving. The Assaggiatori Italiani Balsamico (Italian Balsamic Tasters' Association) established this grading system, but not all producers use it.
Commercial balsamic. What you're more likely to find in most American grocery stores is the commercial type of balsamic vinegar. Some is made in Modena, but not by traditional methods. In fact, some balsamic vinegar isn't even made in Italy. Commercial balsamic vinegar does not carry the Consortium of Producers of the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena seal because it is not produced in accordance with the Consortium's strict regulations.
The production of commercial balsamic vinegar carries no geographical restrictions or rules for length or method of aging. There are no requirements for the types of wood used in the aging casks. It may be aged for six months in stainless steel vats, then for two years or more in wood. Thus, commercial balsamic vinegar is much more affordable and available than the true, artisanal variety.
Whether you're lucky enough to get your hands on the traditional variety or you're using commercial-grade balsamic, the taste of this fine vinegar is like no other. Its sweet and sour notes are in perfect proportion. Balsamic's flavor is so intricate that it brings out the best in salty foods such as goat cheese, astringent foods such as spinach, and sweet foods such as strawberries.
Rice Vinegar
Clear or very pale yellow, rice vinegar originated in Japan, where it is essential to sushi preparation. Rice vinegar is made from the sugars found in rice, and the aged, filtered final product has a mild, clean, and delicate flavor that is an excellent complement to ginger or cloves, sometimes with the addition of sugar.
Rice vinegar also comes in red and black varieties, which are less common in the United States but very popular in China. Both are stronger than the clear (often called white) or pale yellow types. Red rice vinegar's flavor is a combination of sweet and tart. Black rice vinegar is common in southern Chinese cooking and has a strong, almost smoky flavor.
Rice vinegar is popular in Asian cooking and is great sprinkled on salads and stir-fry dishes. Its gentle flavor is perfect for fruits and tender vegetables, too. Many cooks choose white rice vinegar for their recipes because it does not change the color of the food to which it is added. Red rice vinegar is good for soups and noodle dishes, and black rice vinegar works as a dipping sauce and in braised dishes.
Malt Vinegar
This dark-brown vinegar, a favorite in Britain, is reminiscent of deep-brown ale. Malt vinegar production begins with the germination, or sprouting, of barley kernels. Germination enables enzymes to break down starch. Sugar is formed, and the resulting product is brewed into an alcohol-containing malt beverage or ale. After bacteria convert the ale to vinegar, the vinegar is aged. As its name implies, malt vinegar has a distinctive malt flavor.
A cheaper and less flavorful version of malt vinegar consists merely of acetic acid diluted to between 4 percent and 8 percent acidity with a little caramel coloring added.
Many people prefer malt vinegar for pickling and as an accompaniment to fish and chips. It is also used as the basic type of cooking vinegar in Britain.
Cane Vinegar
This type of vinegar is produced from the sugar cane and is used mainly in the Philippines. It is often light yellow and has a flavor similar to rice vinegar. Contrary to what you might think, cane vinegar is not any sweeter than other vinegars.
Beer Vinegar
Beer vinegar has an appealing light-golden color and, as you might guess, is popular in Germany, Austria, Bavaria, and the Netherlands. It is made from beer, and its flavor depends on the brew from which it was made. It has a sharp, malty taste.
Coconut Vinegar
If you can't get your Asian recipes to taste "just right," it might be because you don't have coconut vinegar -- a white vinegar with a sharp, acidic, slightly yeasty taste. This staple of Southeast Asian cooking is made from the sap of the coconut palm and is especially important to Thai and Indian dishes.
Raisin Vinegar
This slightly cloudy brown vinegar is traditionally produced in Turkey and used in Middle Eastern cuisines. Try infusing it with a little cinnamon to bolster its mild flavor. Salad dressings made with raisin vinegar will add an unconventional taste to your greens.
Vinegar can be made from just about any food that contains natural sugars. Yeast ferments these sugars into alcohol, and certain types of bacteria convert that alcohol a second time into vinegar. A weak acetic acid remains after this second fermentation; the acid has flavors reminiscent of the original fermented food, such as apples or grapes. Acetic acid is what gives vinegar its distinct tart taste.
Pure acetic acid can be made in a laboratory; when diluted with water, it is sometimes sold as white vinegar. However, acetic acids created in labs lack the subtle flavors found in true vinegars, and synthesized versions don't hold a candle to vinegars fermented naturally from summer's sugar-laden fruits or other foods.
Vinegars can be made from many different foods that add their own tastes to the final products, but additional ingredients, such as herbs, spices, or fruits, can be added for further flavor enhancement.
Vinegar Varieties
Vinegar is great for a healthy, light style of cooking. The tangy taste often reduces the need for salt, especially in soups and bean dishes. It can also cut the fat in a recipe because it balances flavors without requiring the addition of as much cream, butter, or oil. Vinegar flavors range from mild to bold, so you're sure to find one with the taste you want. A brief look at some of the various vinegars available may help you choose a new one for your culinary escapades.
White Vinegar
This clear variety is the most common type of vinegar in American households. It is made either from grain-based ethanol or laboratory-produced acetic acid and then diluted with water. Its flavor is a bit too harsh for most cooking uses, but it is good for pickling and performing many cleaning jobs around the house.
Apple Cider Vinegar
Apple cider vinegar is the second-most-common type of vinegar in the United States. This light-tan vinegar made from apple cider adds a tart and subtle fruity flavor to your cooking. Apple cider vinegar is best for salads, dressings, marinades, condiments, and most general vinegar needs.
Wine Vinegar
This flavorful type of vinegar is made from a blend of either red wines or white wines and is common in Europe, especially Germany. Creative cooks often infuse wine vinegars with extra flavor by tucking in a few sprigs of well-washed fresh herbs, dried herbs, or fresh berries. Red wine vinegar is often flavored with natural raspberry flavoring, if not with the fruit itself.
The quality of the original wine determines how good the vinegar is. Better wine vinegars are made from good wines and are aged for a couple of years or more in wooden casks. The result is a fuller, more complex, and mellow flavor.
You might find sherry vinegar on the shelf next to the wine vinegars. This variety is made from sherry wine, and usually is imported from Spain. Champagne vinegar (yes, made from the bubbly stuff) is a specialty vinegar and is quite expensive.
Wine vinegar excels at bringing out the sweetness of fruit, melon, and berries and adds a flavorful punch to fresh salsa.
Balsamic Vinegar
There are two types of this popular and flavorful vinegar, traditional and commercial. A quasigovernmental body in Modena, Italy (balsamic vinegar's birthplace), regulates the production of traditional balsamic vinegar.
Traditional balsamic. Traditional balsamic vinegars are artisanal foods, similar to great wines, with long histories and well-developed customs for their production. An excellent balsamic vinegar can be made only by an experienced crafter who has spent many years tending the vinegar, patiently watching and learning.
The luscious white and sugary trebbiano grapes that are grown in the northern region of Italy near Modena form the base of the world's best and only true balsamic vinegars. Customdictates that the grapes be left on the vine for as long as possible to develop their sugar. The juice (or "must") is pressed out of the grapes and boiled down; then, vinegar production begins.
Traditional balsamic vinegar is aged for a number of years -- typically 6 and as many as 25. Aging takes place in a succession of casks made from a variety of woods, such as chestnut, mulberry, oak, juniper, and cherry. Each producer has its own formula for the order in which the vinegar is moved to the different casks. Thus, the flavors are complex, rich, sweet, and subtly woody. Vinegar made in this way carries a seal from the Consortium of Producers of the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena.
Because of the arduous production process, only a limited amount of traditional balsamic vinegar makes it to market each year, and what is available is expensive.
Leaf ratings. You might see that some traditional balsamic vinegars have leaves on their labels. This is a rating system that ranks quality on a one- to four-leaf scale, with four leaves being the best. You can use the leaf ranking as a guide for how to use the vinegar. For instance, one-leaf balsamic vinegar would be appropriate for salad dressing, while four-leaf vinegar would be best used a few drops at a time to season a dish right before serving. The Assaggiatori Italiani Balsamico (Italian Balsamic Tasters' Association) established this grading system, but not all producers use it.
Commercial balsamic. What you're more likely to find in most American grocery stores is the commercial type of balsamic vinegar. Some is made in Modena, but not by traditional methods. In fact, some balsamic vinegar isn't even made in Italy. Commercial balsamic vinegar does not carry the Consortium of Producers of the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena seal because it is not produced in accordance with the Consortium's strict regulations.
The production of commercial balsamic vinegar carries no geographical restrictions or rules for length or method of aging. There are no requirements for the types of wood used in the aging casks. It may be aged for six months in stainless steel vats, then for two years or more in wood. Thus, commercial balsamic vinegar is much more affordable and available than the true, artisanal variety.
Whether you're lucky enough to get your hands on the traditional variety or you're using commercial-grade balsamic, the taste of this fine vinegar is like no other. Its sweet and sour notes are in perfect proportion. Balsamic's flavor is so intricate that it brings out the best in salty foods such as goat cheese, astringent foods such as spinach, and sweet foods such as strawberries.
Rice Vinegar
Clear or very pale yellow, rice vinegar originated in Japan, where it is essential to sushi preparation. Rice vinegar is made from the sugars found in rice, and the aged, filtered final product has a mild, clean, and delicate flavor that is an excellent complement to ginger or cloves, sometimes with the addition of sugar.
Rice vinegar also comes in red and black varieties, which are less common in the United States but very popular in China. Both are stronger than the clear (often called white) or pale yellow types. Red rice vinegar's flavor is a combination of sweet and tart. Black rice vinegar is common in southern Chinese cooking and has a strong, almost smoky flavor.
Rice vinegar is popular in Asian cooking and is great sprinkled on salads and stir-fry dishes. Its gentle flavor is perfect for fruits and tender vegetables, too. Many cooks choose white rice vinegar for their recipes because it does not change the color of the food to which it is added. Red rice vinegar is good for soups and noodle dishes, and black rice vinegar works as a dipping sauce and in braised dishes.
Malt Vinegar
This dark-brown vinegar, a favorite in Britain, is reminiscent of deep-brown ale. Malt vinegar production begins with the germination, or sprouting, of barley kernels. Germination enables enzymes to break down starch. Sugar is formed, and the resulting product is brewed into an alcohol-containing malt beverage or ale. After bacteria convert the ale to vinegar, the vinegar is aged. As its name implies, malt vinegar has a distinctive malt flavor.
A cheaper and less flavorful version of malt vinegar consists merely of acetic acid diluted to between 4 percent and 8 percent acidity with a little caramel coloring added.
Many people prefer malt vinegar for pickling and as an accompaniment to fish and chips. It is also used as the basic type of cooking vinegar in Britain.
Cane Vinegar
This type of vinegar is produced from the sugar cane and is used mainly in the Philippines. It is often light yellow and has a flavor similar to rice vinegar. Contrary to what you might think, cane vinegar is not any sweeter than other vinegars.
Beer Vinegar
Beer vinegar has an appealing light-golden color and, as you might guess, is popular in Germany, Austria, Bavaria, and the Netherlands. It is made from beer, and its flavor depends on the brew from which it was made. It has a sharp, malty taste.
Coconut Vinegar
If you can't get your Asian recipes to taste "just right," it might be because you don't have coconut vinegar -- a white vinegar with a sharp, acidic, slightly yeasty taste. This staple of Southeast Asian cooking is made from the sap of the coconut palm and is especially important to Thai and Indian dishes.
Raisin Vinegar
This slightly cloudy brown vinegar is traditionally produced in Turkey and used in Middle Eastern cuisines. Try infusing it with a little cinnamon to bolster its mild flavor. Salad dressings made with raisin vinegar will add an unconventional taste to your greens.
Why Do Seasons Change?
Why do the seasons change? The four seasons are determined by shifting sunlight (not heat!)—which is determined by how our planet orbits the Sun and the tilt of its axis.
- On the first day of summer—the summer solstice—we enjoy the most daylight of the calendar year. The Sun reaches its most northern point in the sky at local noon. After this date, the days start getting "shorter," i.e., the length of daylight starts to decrease.
- On the first day of fall—the autumnal equinox—day and night are each about 12 hours long (with the actual time of equal day and night, in the Northern Hemisphere, occurring a few days after the autumnal equinox). The Sun crosses the celestial equator going southward; it rises exactly due east and sets exactly due west.
- The start of winter—the winter solstice—is the darkest day of the year when the Sun reaches its most southern point in the sky at local noon. After this date, the days start getting "longer," i.e., the amount of daylight begins to increase.
- On the first day of spring—the vernal equinox—day and night are each approximately 12 hours long (with the actual time of equal day and night, in the Northern Hemisphere, occurring a few days before the vernal equinox). The Sun crosses the celestial equator going northward; it rises exactly due east and sets exactly due west.
How does Stainless Steel Erase Garlic's Aroma?
Not surprisingly, it all has to do with the chemistry of garlic and stainless steel. Garlic contains sulfur molecules. When cutting garlic, the molecules are transferred to your skin. Washing your hands with water heightens the smell because the water causes the sulfur to turn into sulfuric acid (the same thing that makes you cry when cutting onions). When you touch stainless steel, the molecules in the steel bind with the sulfur molecules on your hands, thus transferring the molecules (along with the smell) to the metal and off from your hands. Presto! No more garlicky fingers.
Stainless steel can also help remove onion or fish odors from your hands. So the next time you're handling garlic, onions or fish as part of your kitchen prep, try stainless steel for yourself. You'll be surprised at how well it works.
Stainless steel can also help remove onion or fish odors from your hands. So the next time you're handling garlic, onions or fish as part of your kitchen prep, try stainless steel for yourself. You'll be surprised at how well it works.
What About Caring for my Kitchen Knives?
Hone Regularly
The textured steel rod that comes in most knife blocks will maintain your blades’ sharp edges. So whenever you’re about to use a knife, give it a quick honing first. The technique is easy once you get the hang of it: With your non-dominant hand, hold the steel vertically, with the tip secure on a stable surface. With your dominant hand, hold the knife horizontally at a 20-degree angle and draw the blade down and toward you, across the steel, from the heel to the tip. Do this about four times per side. For more tips, watch this video on how to hone a knife.
Sharpen Yearly
To repair nicks and other mars on a blade’s edge, you need to sharpen it. How to tell if a knife needs sharpening? It will slide right off the skin of an onion. Skip electric sharpeners, which strip away too much metal. Most chefs prefer pumice-like water stones, but they can be tricky to master. A handheld tool, is
easier.
Cut Properly
“The up-and-down motion of chopping dulls the edge. Better would be “rocking” or “sliding,” making sure the knife stays in contact with the cutting board. That said, “whenever a knife hits the surface of any board, microscopic burrs form on the metal, causing the edge to become dull. To minimize damage, avoid acrylic, glass, or stone boards; stick with wood or plastic. And when scraping food off a board, flip the knife and use the spine, not the blade.
Wash by Hand.
Both blade and handle can get banged up and warped in the dishwasher. Hand wash in warm, soapy water, with the blade away from you. If knives are made of carbon steel, wipe them dry instead of letting them air-dry, as rust and blotches can form.
Store Separately
“Other utensils can nick and ruin knives if you throw them in with silverware,” says McDermott. Sheathing blades in inexpensive plastic guards and laying them flat side-by-side in a drawer is ideal. Can’t give up that precious real estate? Hang them on a magnetic board. Knife blocks are also fine, as long as the slots are horizontal, not vertical, so the blades rest on their sides, not the cutting edges.
The textured steel rod that comes in most knife blocks will maintain your blades’ sharp edges. So whenever you’re about to use a knife, give it a quick honing first. The technique is easy once you get the hang of it: With your non-dominant hand, hold the steel vertically, with the tip secure on a stable surface. With your dominant hand, hold the knife horizontally at a 20-degree angle and draw the blade down and toward you, across the steel, from the heel to the tip. Do this about four times per side. For more tips, watch this video on how to hone a knife.
Sharpen Yearly
To repair nicks and other mars on a blade’s edge, you need to sharpen it. How to tell if a knife needs sharpening? It will slide right off the skin of an onion. Skip electric sharpeners, which strip away too much metal. Most chefs prefer pumice-like water stones, but they can be tricky to master. A handheld tool, is
easier.
Cut Properly
“The up-and-down motion of chopping dulls the edge. Better would be “rocking” or “sliding,” making sure the knife stays in contact with the cutting board. That said, “whenever a knife hits the surface of any board, microscopic burrs form on the metal, causing the edge to become dull. To minimize damage, avoid acrylic, glass, or stone boards; stick with wood or plastic. And when scraping food off a board, flip the knife and use the spine, not the blade.
Wash by Hand.
Both blade and handle can get banged up and warped in the dishwasher. Hand wash in warm, soapy water, with the blade away from you. If knives are made of carbon steel, wipe them dry instead of letting them air-dry, as rust and blotches can form.
Store Separately
“Other utensils can nick and ruin knives if you throw them in with silverware,” says McDermott. Sheathing blades in inexpensive plastic guards and laying them flat side-by-side in a drawer is ideal. Can’t give up that precious real estate? Hang them on a magnetic board. Knife blocks are also fine, as long as the slots are horizontal, not vertical, so the blades rest on their sides, not the cutting edges.
Need Some Info on Pasta?
Use more water than you think you need.
For every pound of pasta, you'll need four quarts of water. "This amount of water may seem excessive to some, but pasta contains tons of starch, and if cooked in too little liquid, the noodles will stick together." Ever had a pot of pasta foam up and boil over? That's a sure sign you didn't use enough water.
Add salt.
Add 1 tablespoon of table salt or 2 tablespoons kosher salt to the boiling water. Some cooks say it should be as salty as sea water. "It really enhances the flavor of the pasta, making it taste fuller and wheatier."
Do not add olive oil.
"Contrary to popular belief, adding oil to boiling water does not prevent sticking." The oil will just float to the surface and then be drained off with the cooking
water. And there go a few dollars down the drain, to boot.
Do not follow the package timing.
If you want al dente pasta, the suggested cooking times on the pasta box will likely lead you astray. Instead, "about 3 minutes shy of the package time, simply lift a piece of pasta and taste it." (You DON'T need to throw it on the wall.) Remember that like eggs and meat, the pasta will continue to cook as it's drained and sauced.
Reserve some of the pasta cooking liquid.
"Before draining, reserve some of the cooking water—about a ½ cup or so. A splash of this starchy water can adjust the consistency of a pasta sauce that’s become too stodgy or thick." To help yourself remember this step, place your colander in the sink while the pasta is cooking with a measuring cup inside as a visual reminder. If you still forget, "mix ¼ teaspoon of cornstarch with 1 cup of water and microwave for 1 to 2 minutes until hot. Just a splash or two of the slightly thickened liquid creates a sauce with just the right consistency."
Do not shake pasta dry.
"A little water clinging to the pasta is desirable because it helps the sauce combine with and coat the pasta." Besides, if you've ever refrigerated leftover spaghetti, you know what happens as pasta dries: the strands stick together in a tangled glob. Try this method instead. "Just pour the pasta into a colander, and let the pasta drain of its own accord for 30 seconds or so—resist the urge to vigorously shake the colander (although one or two gentle shakes won’t hurt)."
Do not rinse pasta.
Unless you're headed to a picnic with your signature pasta salad, don't rinse. It cools down the pasta––not what we want if it's a hot dinner we're after––"but it also washes away all of that beautiful starch that helps the sauce cling."
Pair your pasta shape with the right sauce.
The ideal marriage between pasta and sauce offers a taste of both in every single bite. Thin pasta like angel hair and spaghetti goes best with a smooth, light sauce, like pesto or olive oil and garlic. Thicker strands like tagliatelle, fettucine, and linguine are better matches for a slightly chunkier sauce with ground meat, like a bolognese, or a creamy sauce like alfredo. Larger tube shapes like rigatoni or shells are best with a really chunky sauce that will get stuck in its crevices, like pasta alla norma. Smaller tube-shaped pasta like penne and fusilli are at their best with a lightly chunky tomato sauce.
For every pound of pasta, you'll need four quarts of water. "This amount of water may seem excessive to some, but pasta contains tons of starch, and if cooked in too little liquid, the noodles will stick together." Ever had a pot of pasta foam up and boil over? That's a sure sign you didn't use enough water.
Add salt.
Add 1 tablespoon of table salt or 2 tablespoons kosher salt to the boiling water. Some cooks say it should be as salty as sea water. "It really enhances the flavor of the pasta, making it taste fuller and wheatier."
Do not add olive oil.
"Contrary to popular belief, adding oil to boiling water does not prevent sticking." The oil will just float to the surface and then be drained off with the cooking
water. And there go a few dollars down the drain, to boot.
Do not follow the package timing.
If you want al dente pasta, the suggested cooking times on the pasta box will likely lead you astray. Instead, "about 3 minutes shy of the package time, simply lift a piece of pasta and taste it." (You DON'T need to throw it on the wall.) Remember that like eggs and meat, the pasta will continue to cook as it's drained and sauced.
Reserve some of the pasta cooking liquid.
"Before draining, reserve some of the cooking water—about a ½ cup or so. A splash of this starchy water can adjust the consistency of a pasta sauce that’s become too stodgy or thick." To help yourself remember this step, place your colander in the sink while the pasta is cooking with a measuring cup inside as a visual reminder. If you still forget, "mix ¼ teaspoon of cornstarch with 1 cup of water and microwave for 1 to 2 minutes until hot. Just a splash or two of the slightly thickened liquid creates a sauce with just the right consistency."
Do not shake pasta dry.
"A little water clinging to the pasta is desirable because it helps the sauce combine with and coat the pasta." Besides, if you've ever refrigerated leftover spaghetti, you know what happens as pasta dries: the strands stick together in a tangled glob. Try this method instead. "Just pour the pasta into a colander, and let the pasta drain of its own accord for 30 seconds or so—resist the urge to vigorously shake the colander (although one or two gentle shakes won’t hurt)."
Do not rinse pasta.
Unless you're headed to a picnic with your signature pasta salad, don't rinse. It cools down the pasta––not what we want if it's a hot dinner we're after––"but it also washes away all of that beautiful starch that helps the sauce cling."
Pair your pasta shape with the right sauce.
The ideal marriage between pasta and sauce offers a taste of both in every single bite. Thin pasta like angel hair and spaghetti goes best with a smooth, light sauce, like pesto or olive oil and garlic. Thicker strands like tagliatelle, fettucine, and linguine are better matches for a slightly chunkier sauce with ground meat, like a bolognese, or a creamy sauce like alfredo. Larger tube shapes like rigatoni or shells are best with a really chunky sauce that will get stuck in its crevices, like pasta alla norma. Smaller tube-shaped pasta like penne and fusilli are at their best with a lightly chunky tomato sauce.
What's Good About Black Pepper?
Black pepper, scientifically called Piper nigrum, is one of the most popular spices used to increase the flavor of foods. It grows on a flowering vine, which belongs to the family Piperaceae. The plant grows in hot and humid tropical climates and goes up to a height of 33 feet. In a span of 3 to 4 years, the plant starts bearing small white clustered flowers, which develop into berries known as peppercorns. The berries are picked when they are half ripe and just about to turn red. These peppercorns are then dried, which makes them shrivel and turn dark in color, to form black pepper. Black pepper is available in whole, cracked as well as powder form. It has been a principal spice in India since the pre-historic time. In ancient Greece, black pepper was used as a currency and a sacred offering. Pepper was used both to pay respect to Gods as well as to pay the taxes and ransoms. In the Middle Ages, it became a sign of wealth. After the Middle Ages, the cultivation of pepper spread from India to Europe, Middle East and North Africa. By the 16th century, pepper cultivation expanded to Java, Sunda, Sumatra, Madagascar, Malaysia, and many parts of Southeast Asia. Today, India and Indonesia are the major commercial producers of black pepper. With this article, we will help you explore the benefits of black pepper.
Health Benefits Of Eating Black Pepper
Caution
Cooking Tips
Health Benefits Of Eating Black Pepper
Caution
- High consumption of black pepper can cause mucosal micro bleeding and in
some cases, even gastric bleeding.
- The piperine content in black pepper may interfere with reproductive
process in men and can have negative effects on the sperm.
- Black pepper is recorded in the Environmental Working Group's 2009 report
"Shopper's Guide to Pesticides" as one of the 12 foods commonly containing
pesticide residues.
Cooking Tips
- Black pepper should be added to the meal at the end of the cooking
process. This is because it loses its flavor and aroma when cooked for longer
times. So, it is advisable to put it in the dish when the cooking is almost
done.
- The pepper tends to lose its flavor and aroma by evaporation. So, always
keep it in an airtight container, to preserve its spiciness.
- Black pepper can lose its flavor if exposed to light. Light transforms its
piperine content into nearly tasteless isochavicine. So, make sure to preserve
it in dark containers.
- The pepper has a tendency to lose flavor and aroma immediately after being
ground. So, it is advisable to grind it just before adding it to the
food.
What is the Difference Between Vischyssoise and Gazpacho?
Vischyssoise - Chilled potato and leek soup or a chilled chicken broth soup.
Gazpacho - Usually a tomato-based, vegetable soup, traditionally served cold, originating in the southern Spanish region of Andalucia. Gazpacho is widely consumed in Spanish cuisine, as well as in neighboring Portugal. Gazpacho is mostly consumed during the summer months, due to its refreshing qualities and cold serving temperature. Many people now make what they call gazpacho from a variety of vegetables, for instance, "cucumber soup". But traditionally is a tomato based vegetable soup, served cold.
Where did the saying "For Pete's Sake" come from?
Biblical origins. Think of St. Peter. Think of the omnipresent medieval church and think of hitting your thumb with a hammer. You can't swear, else the local
priests will have you up before the Bishop and the Lord alone knows what the outcome of that will be, so you exclaim, in appropriate tone of voice, "For
Saint Peter's sake" and carry on erecting the shelves. This phrase was amended to "For Pete's Sake" in later, less religiously oppressive, times.
priests will have you up before the Bishop and the Lord alone knows what the outcome of that will be, so you exclaim, in appropriate tone of voice, "For
Saint Peter's sake" and carry on erecting the shelves. This phrase was amended to "For Pete's Sake" in later, less religiously oppressive, times.
What makes Panko Crumbs Different?
Panko is the Japanese word for bread crumbs. Suddenly, panko sounds much less swanky, but there are many characteristics of panko that often make them superior to American-style bread crumbs in many culinary applications.
There are two general types of panko sold in stores - white panko is made without crusts, and tan panko is made from the whole loaf, crusts and all. What sets panko apart from regular bread crumbs is the processing.
The bread is processed in such a way that the resulting panko looks like flakes rather than crumbs. The flakiness means a much broader surface area than
regular breadcrumbs. What this means for your cooking is crispier coatings, crunchier toppings and lighter end-products, depending on how you use
the panko.
If you dredge food in panko before frying, you will end up with a crisp, light fried coating. Oil does not soak into panko as readily as it does into regular breadcrumbs, so you are left with a lighter, less-greasy coating. Try this with seafood or chicken.
Panko makes a wonderful crisp topping for casseroles. Toss panko together with some grated parmesan, salt, pepper and maybe some herbs. Then, drizzle in some melted butter. Spread this topping liberally on a casserole, and upon baking, you will be rewarded with a light, crunchy and flavorful topping a nice contrast to your creamy casserole. Try this trick on top of scalloped potatoes, lasagna, tuna noodle casserole or macaroni and cheese.
Use panko in any recipe that calls for bread crumbs as an ingredient. Panko does not compact like breadcrumbs, and since grease doesn't soak into
them, your results will be lighter in texture than your original bread crumb-based recipes. Use panko as an ingredient in crab cakes, meatballs or meatloaf.
By itself, panko has almost no flavor. This makes it the perfect blank canvas. Panko readily soaks up other flavors"” and from the seasonings in the food and also from whatever seasonings you toss with it. A simple topping of panko, a little salt and pepper, and some melted butter will result in a richly flavored, crunchy topping after baking.
If you do not have panko on hand, you can certainly substitute bread crumbs, but your toppings won't be as crisp and any recipe you use them in will have a
somewhat heavier texture. A better substitute for panko is cracker meal. You can also crush up saltine crackers.
.
There are two general types of panko sold in stores - white panko is made without crusts, and tan panko is made from the whole loaf, crusts and all. What sets panko apart from regular bread crumbs is the processing.
The bread is processed in such a way that the resulting panko looks like flakes rather than crumbs. The flakiness means a much broader surface area than
regular breadcrumbs. What this means for your cooking is crispier coatings, crunchier toppings and lighter end-products, depending on how you use
the panko.
If you dredge food in panko before frying, you will end up with a crisp, light fried coating. Oil does not soak into panko as readily as it does into regular breadcrumbs, so you are left with a lighter, less-greasy coating. Try this with seafood or chicken.
Panko makes a wonderful crisp topping for casseroles. Toss panko together with some grated parmesan, salt, pepper and maybe some herbs. Then, drizzle in some melted butter. Spread this topping liberally on a casserole, and upon baking, you will be rewarded with a light, crunchy and flavorful topping a nice contrast to your creamy casserole. Try this trick on top of scalloped potatoes, lasagna, tuna noodle casserole or macaroni and cheese.
Use panko in any recipe that calls for bread crumbs as an ingredient. Panko does not compact like breadcrumbs, and since grease doesn't soak into
them, your results will be lighter in texture than your original bread crumb-based recipes. Use panko as an ingredient in crab cakes, meatballs or meatloaf.
By itself, panko has almost no flavor. This makes it the perfect blank canvas. Panko readily soaks up other flavors"” and from the seasonings in the food and also from whatever seasonings you toss with it. A simple topping of panko, a little salt and pepper, and some melted butter will result in a richly flavored, crunchy topping after baking.
If you do not have panko on hand, you can certainly substitute bread crumbs, but your toppings won't be as crisp and any recipe you use them in will have a
somewhat heavier texture. A better substitute for panko is cracker meal. You can also crush up saltine crackers.
.
Where did the saying "Happy as a Lark" come from? (I couldn't find a lot!)
The use of "as" in the phrase "happy as a lark" incorporates the use of a simile. In addition, lark is typically used as a symbol for hope, happiness and good
fortune.
fortune.
Easter Folklore/History
Most European countries refer to Easter as Pasch or Pascha, which is Greek for "Passover." Christ's death and resurrection is said to have taken place during the Jewish Passover celebration. The word "Easter" first came into use around 735 A.D. Eostre, or Eastre, is the name of the Saxon goddess of the dawn and Spring. After the Saxons were converted to Christianity, they transferred the word to the day commemorating Christ's resurrection, a holiday also associated with Spring and new dawns.
Yellow Stain on Linoleum from Rug?
Linoleum flooring is made from raw materials, including linseed oil. When this oil is blocked from the sunlight it begins to oxidize and can change colors. The continual covering of floor mats and rugs can hasten this process. In many cases, it is possible to remove these stains with a few simple steps. Here are two different methods to use. (No promises!)
Sunlight Method
You Will Need: Sunlight
Steps to Remove the Yellow Stains:
Baking Soda Method
You Will Need:
Steps to Remove the Yellow Stains:
Sunlight Method
You Will Need: Sunlight
Steps to Remove the Yellow Stains:
- Since the lack of light is what causes the problem, the easiest way to
remove them is to introduce light to the area. - Remove the rugs and allow the yellowed areas some time in the
sunlight/daylight. - The length of exposure time will depend largely on how long the areas have
been covered and how yellowed the areas have become. - Once the yellowed areas have reached the same coloring as the rest of the
floor, continue to remove the rugs periodically to allow light to the covered
areas.
Baking Soda Method
You Will Need:
- Baking soda
- Water
- Soft cloth
Steps to Remove the Yellow Stains:
- Begin by removing the rugs and sweeping away any dirt from the area.
- Next, wet the entire area with plain water.
- Sprinkle baking soda over the yellowed area and allow it to set for at least
10-15 minutes. - Use a soft cloth to wipe the baking soda away.
- It may take several applications to remove the yellow areas if they are
deeply discolored. - Once the stain is gone, continue to clean the area with baking soda during
weekly cleanings to keep the yellow stains from returning.
Cute As A Button???
CUTE AS A BUTTON - "cute, charming, attractive, almost always with the connotation of being small, 1868 (from the original 1731 English meaning of 'acute' or clever). Cute as a bug's ear, 1930; cute as a bug in a rug, 1942; cute as a button, 1946. Cute and keen were two of the most overused slang words of the
late 1920s and 1930s." From "Listening to America" by Stuart Berg Flexner (Simon and Schuster, New York, 1992.)
Flexner may have an idea about the word "cute," but he provides no guidance on the question of how a button can be cute. The key to the issue is that it is not the button on a shirt that is meant here, but a flower bud seen in the popular name of small flowers, such as bachelor's button (q.v. "button" (n) in the OED, meanings 2 and 3).
The British version is "bright as a button". This makes sense if you think of a polished brass button. The phrase is really only ever used of small people - you'd say that a child, or maybe a small dog, was as bright as a button, but you'd never say it of a six-foot man. So the image is of a small sparky thing.
late 1920s and 1930s." From "Listening to America" by Stuart Berg Flexner (Simon and Schuster, New York, 1992.)
Flexner may have an idea about the word "cute," but he provides no guidance on the question of how a button can be cute. The key to the issue is that it is not the button on a shirt that is meant here, but a flower bud seen in the popular name of small flowers, such as bachelor's button (q.v. "button" (n) in the OED, meanings 2 and 3).
The British version is "bright as a button". This makes sense if you think of a polished brass button. The phrase is really only ever used of small people - you'd say that a child, or maybe a small dog, was as bright as a button, but you'd never say it of a six-foot man. So the image is of a small sparky thing.
Where Did the Saying "Bite the Dust" Come From?
"Bite the dust" is an English idiom that can refer to a person dying. This idiom can also have a more general — and less morbid — meaning, referring to
anything that has failed or succumbed to some negative fate. The phrase "bite the dust" derives its meaning from the fact that someone who either dies or
falls on the ground would literally end up biting the dust. Its origins can be traced back to the Bible, and it can be found in literature as far back as the
18th century, although it gained its most popularity from cowboys and Indians in American Western movies and literature.
In most languages, over time, speakers form words into phrases that, through popular use, take on a meaning that's different from their literal definitions.
These phrases are known as idioms, and allow people to get their points across in an evocative and expressive manner. Perhaps because death is sometimes
considered a taboo or unlucky topic, many idioms exist in the English language that are used to describe it. One of the most popular of these is the phrase
"bite the dust."
Origin
Given the many B-feature cowboy movies in which the bad guys, or occasionally the pesky redskins, would 'bite the dust', we might expect this to be of American origin. It isn't though. The same notion is expressed in the earlier phrase 'lick the dust', from the Bible, where there are several uses of it, including Psalms 72 (King James Version), 1611: "They that dwell in the wilderness shall bow before him and his enemies shall lick the dust."
The earliest citation of the 'bite the dust' version is from 1750 by the Scottish author Tobias Smollett , in his Adventures of Gil Blas of Santillane:
"We made two of them bite the dust, and the others betake themselves to flight."
Homer's epic poem The Iliad was written in around 700 BC. That was in Greek of course. It was translated into English in the 19th century by Samuel Butler and his version contains a reference to 'bite the dust' in these lines: "Grant that my sword may pierce the shirt of Hector about his heart, and that full many of his comrades may bite the dust as they fall dying round him."
Whether that can be counted as an 8th century BC origin for 'bite the dust' is open to question and some would say that it was Butler's use of the phrase rather than Homer's.
anything that has failed or succumbed to some negative fate. The phrase "bite the dust" derives its meaning from the fact that someone who either dies or
falls on the ground would literally end up biting the dust. Its origins can be traced back to the Bible, and it can be found in literature as far back as the
18th century, although it gained its most popularity from cowboys and Indians in American Western movies and literature.
In most languages, over time, speakers form words into phrases that, through popular use, take on a meaning that's different from their literal definitions.
These phrases are known as idioms, and allow people to get their points across in an evocative and expressive manner. Perhaps because death is sometimes
considered a taboo or unlucky topic, many idioms exist in the English language that are used to describe it. One of the most popular of these is the phrase
"bite the dust."
Origin
Given the many B-feature cowboy movies in which the bad guys, or occasionally the pesky redskins, would 'bite the dust', we might expect this to be of American origin. It isn't though. The same notion is expressed in the earlier phrase 'lick the dust', from the Bible, where there are several uses of it, including Psalms 72 (King James Version), 1611: "They that dwell in the wilderness shall bow before him and his enemies shall lick the dust."
The earliest citation of the 'bite the dust' version is from 1750 by the Scottish author Tobias Smollett , in his Adventures of Gil Blas of Santillane:
"We made two of them bite the dust, and the others betake themselves to flight."
Homer's epic poem The Iliad was written in around 700 BC. That was in Greek of course. It was translated into English in the 19th century by Samuel Butler and his version contains a reference to 'bite the dust' in these lines: "Grant that my sword may pierce the shirt of Hector about his heart, and that full many of his comrades may bite the dust as they fall dying round him."
Whether that can be counted as an 8th century BC origin for 'bite the dust' is open to question and some would say that it was Butler's use of the phrase rather than Homer's.
What is Acidophilus Milk?
It is milk that is produced from low fat or skim milk with a bacterial culture added to it. As the milk is digested the bacteria are released and become active at body temperature helping to maintain the balance of beneficial microorganisms in the intestinal tract. It is especially useful when taking antibiotics to replenish the bacteria that are destroyed, especially the ones that produce the B vitamins. Other products that can produce the similar bacteria building effect are yogurt, buttermilk, and kefir. To obtain the best result, acidophilus should be consumed one hour before breakfast.
Ketchup?
Ketchup was originally called "ketsiap" and was invented by the Chinese in the 1600's. It was used as a sauce for fish and was composed of fish entrails, vinegar and hot spices. The sauce was exported to Malayan's who sold the sauce to English sailors during the 1700's. In 1792 the sauce was altered and tomatoes were added and it was renamed "catsup." The sauce became popular in the United States in 1830 and H.J. Heinz started producing the commercial product in 1870.
Wines in Cooking
Sherry - Add to soups and sauces. Particularly delicious with seafood and chicken dishes and in many desserts.
White Wines - Add to fish or chicken dishes.
Red Wines - Marinate meats in wine to improve both texture and favor. Use the marinade in making gravy or sauce. Add red wine to meat stews.
Dessert Wines - Tend to improve hot or cold fruit compotes and season sweet sauces pleasantly.
Brandy - Adds fine flavor to many dishes. To flame, warm a small amount of brandy, pour it over the food and light it with a match. Spoon over the food until the flame dies down.
Rum - Is delicious over any fruit cup, especially one which includes pineapple. Use rum as the flavoring in any chocolate dessert.
Vodka - Flames very successfully.
White Wines - Add to fish or chicken dishes.
Red Wines - Marinate meats in wine to improve both texture and favor. Use the marinade in making gravy or sauce. Add red wine to meat stews.
Dessert Wines - Tend to improve hot or cold fruit compotes and season sweet sauces pleasantly.
Brandy - Adds fine flavor to many dishes. To flame, warm a small amount of brandy, pour it over the food and light it with a match. Spoon over the food until the flame dies down.
Rum - Is delicious over any fruit cup, especially one which includes pineapple. Use rum as the flavoring in any chocolate dessert.
Vodka - Flames very successfully.
Clove Oil
Clove oil appears widely in Ayurvedic tooth-cleaning preparations. It has been used for centuries to numb the nerve sensation from a painful tooth, but now science shows that it also treats tooth decay. In 2011, South Korean scientists evaluated clove oil's potential for dental caries, and concluded that this potent essential oil kills the bacteria that cause oral cancer and decay. Consider a clove-oil toothpaste or a rinse with clove tea.
Easter Eggs Dyed Naturally
Did you know that you can use fruits and veggies to make your own dye for Easter eggs? Allow hard-boiled eggs to soak in the dyes until the desired color is reached; the longer they soak, the deeper the color will be.
Blue: Cut 1/4 head red cabbage into chunks, add to 4 cups boiling water, and stir in 2 Tbs. vinegar. Let cool to room temperature and then remove the cabbage with a slotted spoon.
Green: Mix 2 Tsp. vinegar with 1 cup kale or spinach juice.
Yellow: Stir 2 Tbs. turmeric into 1 cup boiling water, then add 2 Tsp. white vinegar.
Purple: Mix 1 cup grape juice with 1 Tbs. vinegar.
Pink: Cut 1 medium beet into chunks and add to 4 cups boiling water. Stir in 2 Tbs. vinegar and let cool to room temperature, then remove beets.
Blue: Cut 1/4 head red cabbage into chunks, add to 4 cups boiling water, and stir in 2 Tbs. vinegar. Let cool to room temperature and then remove the cabbage with a slotted spoon.
Green: Mix 2 Tsp. vinegar with 1 cup kale or spinach juice.
Yellow: Stir 2 Tbs. turmeric into 1 cup boiling water, then add 2 Tsp. white vinegar.
Purple: Mix 1 cup grape juice with 1 Tbs. vinegar.
Pink: Cut 1 medium beet into chunks and add to 4 cups boiling water. Stir in 2 Tbs. vinegar and let cool to room temperature, then remove beets.
A Dish Too Hot & Spicy?
What can you do to tone it down if you make your chili too spicy? Here are some ideas!!
- Eat dairy products with it like: Sour cream, yogurt, cheese, milk or a glass or milk. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES keep drinking a drink after every mouthful as it makes the chili seem even spicier!
- If it is too acidic, use a pinch or more of Arm & Hammer Baking soda to neutralize the acid. Carrots offer a sweetness and absorbs the acid. Try one in your pasta sauce and see how it will taste before you serve the sauce. Sugar can be used to sweeten if needed, be cautious though. As stated below, potatoes work well also.
- Peel 2 -3 large potatoes and mix them into your chili. Leave in for 1/2 hour, then taste and if it's still too spicy leave it in until your taste test tells you otherwise. Then remove the potatoes and serve. In an emergency when you lack the time for the potatoes to work their wonder, try steps 2 or 3 below.
- Make more chili without spice and add it to the original batch and stir!
- A teaspoon at a time stir in sugar and stir until the excess spice flavor has been masked, or (if you promise to keep it secret) you may stir in pieces of sweet or semi sweet chocolate to contradict and mask the spice, but you must never add so much chocolate that you can actually taste it.
- Put a few pieces of lemon, peel and all, in your chili. This will help to neutralize some of the spiciness. Remove the lemon before you serve it
- Add a few cans of pinto beans and/or diced tomatoes. Just avoid any that have added seasoning.
- Dairy helps to neutralize hot foods so if you are in a hurry and need a quick fix you can add either sour cream or plain yogurt as a topping.
- Add a dollop or two of honey. You can't taste the sweetness but it knocks out the spice. It really works.
- The best kept secret to improve chili's acidity comes from an idea from Emeril Agasse that I use. If you’re making a huge batch like I do, heat in microwave for one minute or on the stove, a quarter cup of apple cider vinegar, once its hot, stir in two tablespoons of table sugar and dissolve. Add it to the chili and its wonderful. If you get it a hair too sweet, add salt. The mixture is called "gastrique" (gastreek), works wonder in any tomato based sauce.
- Adding some sugar or honey to neutralize the acid. You can add little by little until you reach your desired flavor level.
- You can use baking soda. The baking soda ingredients tend to neutralize Ph (acidity level). One or two teaspoons will work.
- Add to the sauce 1/4 cup of hot apple vinegar/wine vinegar with 1 teaspoon of honey dissolved in it, or 2 teaspoon sugar.
- Serving chili over white rice is tasty, tones down spices, and even stretches the recipe a bit. Each person prepares his or her own portions of rice with chili topping to individual taste!
- Try adding water and cooking longer. Heat applied to chilis calms down the kick a bit. Maybe milk also, and cook it out.
- The only real way to do it is to add additional other ingredients -- more beans, meat, sweet peppers, tomato products, etc.... this will essentially dilute it. Other than that, you're stuck -- once it's integrated, there's little to do that will isolate the spiciness and allow you to remove it.
- Adding plain yogurt will calm the fieriness down in both chili and curry.
- Don't use powdered chili or chopped fresh chili. At the stage when you fry your garlic, add twice the whole chilies you'd normally use (count them!); just take the stems off Taste your sauce at intervals and when it's at the heat you want, fish out the chilies. This is why you counted them, so you don't leave any in there.
- You can add a can or two of refried beans (or mash some canned beans). This helps to dilute the spiciness, and also helps thicken the chili, increases the fiber and protein content for a more nutritious meal, and stretches it to more servings without the higher cost of adding more beef. Also, by adding a few cans of the beans to the pot, it not only cuts down on the heat of the spices, but can almost double the amount of chili you end up with, for very little cost. (Of course, if you think of it before, just make a double batch and leave out the "heat" elements!)
- Add more tomatoes. You can put in brown sugar. Cumin works well if it's not extremely hot. Put the chili in the refrigerator and serve it the next day--it will be less spicy. Add brown sugar, molasses, or honey, or drink it with water. Add water to it.
Goji Berries/Wolfberries
The goji berry is also called the wolfberry. It is a bright orange-red berry that comes from a shrub that's native to China. In Asia, goji berries have been eaten for generations in the hopes of living longer.
Over time, people have used goji berries to treat many common health problems like diabetes, high blood pressure, fever, and age-related eye problems. Goji berries are eaten raw, cooked, or dried (like raisins) and are used in herbal teas, juices, wines, and medicines.
What Are the Benefits of Goji Berries? Research shows that eating berries -- like blueberries, acai berries, cranberries, strawberries, and cherries -- offers some definite health benefits. Berries like the goji berry are filled with powerful antioxidants and other compounds that may help prevent cancer and other illnesses, including heart disease. Antioxidants may also boost the immune system and lower cholesterol.
Eating foods high in antioxidants may slow the aging process as well. It does this by minimizing damage from free radicals that injure cells and damage DNA. When a cell's DNA changes, the cell grows abnormally. Antioxidants can take away the destructive power of free radicals. By doing so, antioxidants help reduce the risk of some serious diseases.
Goji berries also have compounds rich in vitamin A that may have anti-aging benefits. These special compounds help boost immune function, protect vision, and may help prevent heart disease.
Some research suggests that goji berry extracts may boost brain health and may protect against age-related diseases such as Alzheimer's.
Other studies using goji berry juice finds benefits in mental well-being, and calmness, athletic performance, happiness, quality of sleep, and feelings of good health.
While goji berries are a rich source of antioxidants -- and early research shows a potentially powerful health benefit -- it's still unclear how they stack up against other berries. Researchers also don't know whether goji berry supplements have the same health benefits as the actual berries.
Do Goji Berries Have Side Effects? There may be some possible herb-drug interactions with goji berries. If you take warfarin (a blood thinner), you may want to avoid goji berries. Goji berries may also interact with diabetes and blood pressure drugs.
Also, if you have pollen allergies, you may want to stay away from this fruit. However, when eaten in moderation, goji berries appear to be safe. Ask your doctor if you have any questions.
Over time, people have used goji berries to treat many common health problems like diabetes, high blood pressure, fever, and age-related eye problems. Goji berries are eaten raw, cooked, or dried (like raisins) and are used in herbal teas, juices, wines, and medicines.
What Are the Benefits of Goji Berries? Research shows that eating berries -- like blueberries, acai berries, cranberries, strawberries, and cherries -- offers some definite health benefits. Berries like the goji berry are filled with powerful antioxidants and other compounds that may help prevent cancer and other illnesses, including heart disease. Antioxidants may also boost the immune system and lower cholesterol.
Eating foods high in antioxidants may slow the aging process as well. It does this by minimizing damage from free radicals that injure cells and damage DNA. When a cell's DNA changes, the cell grows abnormally. Antioxidants can take away the destructive power of free radicals. By doing so, antioxidants help reduce the risk of some serious diseases.
Goji berries also have compounds rich in vitamin A that may have anti-aging benefits. These special compounds help boost immune function, protect vision, and may help prevent heart disease.
Some research suggests that goji berry extracts may boost brain health and may protect against age-related diseases such as Alzheimer's.
Other studies using goji berry juice finds benefits in mental well-being, and calmness, athletic performance, happiness, quality of sleep, and feelings of good health.
While goji berries are a rich source of antioxidants -- and early research shows a potentially powerful health benefit -- it's still unclear how they stack up against other berries. Researchers also don't know whether goji berry supplements have the same health benefits as the actual berries.
Do Goji Berries Have Side Effects? There may be some possible herb-drug interactions with goji berries. If you take warfarin (a blood thinner), you may want to avoid goji berries. Goji berries may also interact with diabetes and blood pressure drugs.
Also, if you have pollen allergies, you may want to stay away from this fruit. However, when eaten in moderation, goji berries appear to be safe. Ask your doctor if you have any questions.
Ceramic Knives
The appeal of ceramic is its hardness. Think back to science class; remember the Mohs hardness scale? It rates minerals from 1 to 10, with diamonds at the top of the scale (10) as the hardest substance on earth. Stainless steel, of which most kitchen knife blades are made, ranks at about 5.5 on the Mohs scale. A properly made ceramic blade scores 8.2 on the scale - about 50% harder than stainless steel. The ceramic material itself is zirconium oxide that's been heated in a process called sintering, which bonds the ceramic powder particles together by closing its pores
So what's the big deal about hardness? It's all about holding an edge. A quality ceramic knife blade will slice and slice and slice - literally for years without needing to be resharpened because it's among the hardest materials on earth and won't give way to the abrasion that comes with daily use the way stainless steel does.
There are other reasons these knives are found in the kitchens of the most exacting professional chefs. The ceramic blades are "chemically inert," meaning they will have no effect on the flavor or appearance of foods they come into contact with. The ceramic material's pores are so tightly closed that there's virtually no opportunity for any transfer of taste or smell between foods, such as garlic and apples. No color change will happen to foods you've sliced as sometimes occurs with steel blades because ceramic doesn't react to acids and other agents in food.
Another advantage that ceramic users champion is the comparative light weight. The same size stainless blade weighs significantly more.
Over the long term, ceramic knives retain their like-new appearance better than stainless because they don't pit, rust or corrode.
There are drawbacks to ceramic knives. Unlike stainless steel, ceramic blades tend to be fragile, and the less you pay, the more likely they are to shatter if dropped. A common casualty is the blade's tip, which will break off if it takes the brunt of a fall. Reputable makers will retip a ceramic knife for free as long as it wasn't used to pry or scrape, which is a no-no for any type of knife.
Ceramic knives do one thing, and they do it better than any other knife: They slice. That's the job most manufacturers recommend their ceramic blades do, and a good ceramic blade will let you slice a vegetable so thin that it's translucent. It's possible to chop with a ceramic knife, as long as it's in a pivoting motion with the tip held down against the cutting surface. You'll endanger your knife if you use it as a cleaver and bring it down on the cutting board with any force.
Ceramic knives must be washed and dried by hand for long life and optimum results.
So what's the big deal about hardness? It's all about holding an edge. A quality ceramic knife blade will slice and slice and slice - literally for years without needing to be resharpened because it's among the hardest materials on earth and won't give way to the abrasion that comes with daily use the way stainless steel does.
There are other reasons these knives are found in the kitchens of the most exacting professional chefs. The ceramic blades are "chemically inert," meaning they will have no effect on the flavor or appearance of foods they come into contact with. The ceramic material's pores are so tightly closed that there's virtually no opportunity for any transfer of taste or smell between foods, such as garlic and apples. No color change will happen to foods you've sliced as sometimes occurs with steel blades because ceramic doesn't react to acids and other agents in food.
Another advantage that ceramic users champion is the comparative light weight. The same size stainless blade weighs significantly more.
Over the long term, ceramic knives retain their like-new appearance better than stainless because they don't pit, rust or corrode.
There are drawbacks to ceramic knives. Unlike stainless steel, ceramic blades tend to be fragile, and the less you pay, the more likely they are to shatter if dropped. A common casualty is the blade's tip, which will break off if it takes the brunt of a fall. Reputable makers will retip a ceramic knife for free as long as it wasn't used to pry or scrape, which is a no-no for any type of knife.
Ceramic knives do one thing, and they do it better than any other knife: They slice. That's the job most manufacturers recommend their ceramic blades do, and a good ceramic blade will let you slice a vegetable so thin that it's translucent. It's possible to chop with a ceramic knife, as long as it's in a pivoting motion with the tip held down against the cutting surface. You'll endanger your knife if you use it as a cleaver and bring it down on the cutting board with any force.
Ceramic knives must be washed and dried by hand for long life and optimum results.
Sweet Potatoes
1. They are high in vitamin B6. Vitamin B6 helps reduce the chemical homocysteine in our bodies. Homocysteine has been linked with degenerative diseases, including the prevention of heart attacks.
2. They are a good source of vitamin C. While most people know that vitamin C is important to help ward off cold and flu viruses, few people are aware that this crucial vitamin plays an important role in bone and tooth formation, digestion, and blood cell formation. It helps accelerate wound healing, produces collagen which helps maintain skin’s youthful elasticity, and is essential to helping us cope with stress. It even appears to help protect our body against toxins that may be linked to cancer.
3. They contain Vitamin D which is critical for immune system and overall health at this time of year. Both a vitamin and a hormone, vitamin D is primarily made in our bodies as a result of getting adequate sunlight. You may have heard about seasonal affective disorder (or SAD, as it is also called), which is linked to inadequate sunlight and therefore a vitamin D deficiency. Vitamin D plays an important role in our energy levels, moods, and helps to build healthy bones, heart, nerves, skin, and teeth, and it supports the thyroid gland.
4. Sweet potatoes contain iron. Most people are aware that we need the mineral iron to have adequate energy, but iron plays other important roles in our body, including red and white blood cell production, resistance to stress, proper immune functioning, and the metabolizing of protein, among other things.
5. Sweet potatoes are a good source of magnesium, which is the relaxation and anti-stress mineral. Magnesium is necessary for healthy artery, blood, bone, heart, muscle, and nerve function, yet experts estimate that approximately 80 percent of the population in North America may be deficient in this important mineral.
2. They are a good source of vitamin C. While most people know that vitamin C is important to help ward off cold and flu viruses, few people are aware that this crucial vitamin plays an important role in bone and tooth formation, digestion, and blood cell formation. It helps accelerate wound healing, produces collagen which helps maintain skin’s youthful elasticity, and is essential to helping us cope with stress. It even appears to help protect our body against toxins that may be linked to cancer.
3. They contain Vitamin D which is critical for immune system and overall health at this time of year. Both a vitamin and a hormone, vitamin D is primarily made in our bodies as a result of getting adequate sunlight. You may have heard about seasonal affective disorder (or SAD, as it is also called), which is linked to inadequate sunlight and therefore a vitamin D deficiency. Vitamin D plays an important role in our energy levels, moods, and helps to build healthy bones, heart, nerves, skin, and teeth, and it supports the thyroid gland.
4. Sweet potatoes contain iron. Most people are aware that we need the mineral iron to have adequate energy, but iron plays other important roles in our body, including red and white blood cell production, resistance to stress, proper immune functioning, and the metabolizing of protein, among other things.
5. Sweet potatoes are a good source of magnesium, which is the relaxation and anti-stress mineral. Magnesium is necessary for healthy artery, blood, bone, heart, muscle, and nerve function, yet experts estimate that approximately 80 percent of the population in North America may be deficient in this important mineral.